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kwrek

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Posts posted by kwrek

    What’s the most difficult body that you have painted

    in General discussions

    Posted

    For me it was restoring a vintage Tamiya Blackfoot Body.

    Removed stickers

    Sanded out most scratches and gouges.

    Removed all trim.

    Keyed up body

    Applied multiple coats of primer

    Wet Sanded

    Applied 5 or 6 coats of Tamiya Semi Gloss Black.

    Painted badging and body trim with a combo of fine brushes and Paint pens

    Painted Tailgate and tail lights

    Repaired Broken Grill and rear window.

    Painted grill and light buckets with a Black Paint

    Painted Ramblin Ron

    Applied MCI decals 

    00C49841-B395-4DE4-BBF8-948215DB7017.thumb.jpeg.11565d3828b4473dce67ca7819111d9c.jpeg5AFE2542-AEB0-47E8-BB00-659A7C672872.thumb.jpeg.9316f7479ebce99c36e20f1ebc84c86e.jpeg

    4623884D-9915-40DE-BD86-14B3C4295F5A.jpeg

    • Like 5

    Blackfoot Brushed motor Overheating

    in General discussions

    Posted

    Update.  Installed stock Blackfoot tires.  Loosened up the Diff.  Installed heat sink with thermal pads.  Running silver can.  Ran on a mix of concrete and grass.  Temps not exceeding 100f on the motor.  The heat sink reads 140 max after a hard run.  I can accept that.  Thanks for all the input.  Note to self:  I have to be more cautious on these stock BF tires as the truck is easier to roll on the narrow tires compared to the Prolines.  My vintage Ford body ended the run with scratches.  Oh well I only keep runners so that is part of the fun.  

    Blackfoot Brushed motor Overheating

    in General discussions

    Posted

    Appreciate all of the tips folks.  I removed the Proline Mashers.  I decided to go with a set of standard Blackfoot tires.  I will loosen the diff.  I installed a heat sink with a thermal pad.  Once I get the new tires mounted I will check the temps and report back.  
    Also I found that acetone on a q-tip works great for de-bonding CA glue!

    Blackfoot Brushed motor Overheating

    in General discussions

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Saito2 said:

    Just shot in the dark but are they the smaller Proline Mashers or the later and slightly larger Masher 2000s? The Masher 2Ks being larger than the stock tires plus the high load of grass might do it. Is the rear tire touching the protruding motor can? The Lunch Box's smaller tires plus its very low resistance drivetrain probably attribute to its lower temps. 

    The tires are the Masher 2000s. #1074. The tires clear the motor. I will try the Lunchbox tires and monitor the temps.  Great suggestion!  If the temps are reasonable I may switch to Monster Beetle spikes tires.  I will report back.

    Is this hobby as exciting as it used to be?

    in General discussions

    Posted

    For me it is.  I still get excited about seeing a Lunchbox bounce around today as I did in the 80s.  There was a certain experience around thumbing through a Tower catalog or Radio Controlled Car Action magazine that seems lost today.  I’ve enjoyed NICD, NIMH, Nitro and now Lipos.  Rarely do I get the experience of the sounds and smells(Shoe Goo) of a hobby shop. I do miss that part.  They are still around but few and far between for me.  I like how the hobby has shifted toward realism which was what Tamiya and Kyosho were doing in the golden age.  I do get tired of seeing speed runs and sending brushless cars 50ft in the air online.  To me that’s silly , but it if it keeps people in the hobby I can’t complain too much.  For me there will never be any experience like building a Tamiya or Kyosho.  Waiting on my Re re Ultima to ship!!  I think there are many out there who still enjoy building the kits.

    • Like 2

    Blackfoot Brushed motor Overheating

    in General discussions

    Posted

    Hello.  I am about out of troubleshooting ideas and need some advice.  I have a Vintage Blackfoot that is ball raced and running a Thorp Diff, Counter Gear, Telescoping universals and wheel hubs.  I was running a Sport Tuned motor and noticed my temps were getting into the low 150s before I shut it off.  This was after aggressive throttle on grass.  I removed the motor and cleaned it and lubed the bushings.  I then rebuilt the Ball Diff with new grease.  There is no binding anywhere in the truck including the gearbox.  I am running the stock 10t pinion.  2s lipos are the power source.  I had an Arrma ESC and switched it to a Tamiya brushless ESC.  No difference in temps.

    Tried another Sport Tuned that was new and used the Water Break in method.  No resolution .  Put in my trusty Dirt Tuned motor which does not have as high of RPMs as the Sport Tuned and I am getting lower temps in the 120s. Finally I threw a new silver can in it after the water break in and am seeing temps on the 120s.

    Tires are Proline mashers which are similar in size to the stock tire size.  No screws are protruding into the motor.

    Can a ball diff that is adjusted too tight or too loose cause overheating?  I have it adjusted to where there is just a tiny bit of slip under heavy load.

    My primary driving environment is grass.  My Lunchbox and Pumpkin run sport tuned motors and run about 100 degrees max in the same environment.

    Any help is appreciated 

    Cheers

     

     

     

     

     

    Blackfoot: Broke Thorp Axle, Will Frog Work?

    in Vintage Tamiya Discussion

    Posted

    post-33202-1285507737_thumb.jpgpost-33202-1285507512_thumb.jpgHello all

    I have an entire thorp setup on my vintage blackfoot. I broke the axle trying to straighten it. I have attached a pic of the thorp part I broke. My question is will the frog re-release work as a subsitute? Are the dogbones the same size to fit into the cups? I have also attached a pic of the frog re-release. The reason I want to use the frog axle as a sub is the fact that i sank a small fortune into aquiring the thorp system and replacements are pricy.

    Thanks

    Need Suggestions On How To Mount Swaybar To Blackfoot

    in Vintage Tamiya Discussion

    Posted

    post-33202-1284325985_thumb.jpgI purchased this item from Ebay. The rear swaybar kit looks to be an old Trinity. I have mounted up the aluminum section to the rear gearbox, that is no problem. The issue that I am havin is the two small blue "slider" pieces. I am having difficulty mounting the two small aluminup pieces to the rear arms. The problem I am having is the ends of the sway bar slide through these then I guess you have to also run a screw through the aluminum piece to secure it to the rear arms. Also, do the ends of the sway bar go into the K7 and k3 rear parts? Ive looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and It looks easy but for some reason mine will not install easily. Does anyone have any trinity swaybar instructions from back in the day?

    Thanks

    Need Thorp Dirt Burners Diff For Vintage Blackfoot

    in Trade Archive

    Posted

    Great! could you do $70 shipped and what payments do you accept?

    i have one for sale. I had even put it up for sale but no one replied. Here is the link you can also see the pic of the thorp diff. It really is super rare.And these are bullet proof parts. Everything else on your vintage tamiya will break but this thorp diff will be in a very good shape for another installation.And the one I have is brand new condition.

    http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...85&hl=thorp

    Need Thorp Dirt Burners Diff For Vintage Blackfoot

    in Trade Archive

    Posted

    I am interested in a Thorp Differential system for my Tamiya Blackfoot. I know these are extremely rare. I have been having trouble locating one on ebay. I do not want to perform a "oldfrogshots screw mod" to my foot. I would rather just install the thorp. If I can't get a thorp does anyone have any feedback on the old Robinson Racing diff system that was made for this chassis?

    Thanks

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