impynyc

The chassis was made in the 2.5mm like the stock configuration. I was thinking 3mm but 2.5 was stiff and strong enough

Thanks for the complements. This project is almost done. I did get it bench running. I attached the 2D AUTO CAD files that were sent to Bezerk. One file has the shorty RC10 style battery mount only. Use at you own risk. LOL My astute project is 85% aftermarket. There are 3 or 4 stock astute parts on the entire car. The remaining parts can be replaced with aftermarket parts as well. If you shop around you can find sellers on ebay that have broken down BBX kits and are selling the parts at a reasonable price. Tamiya Asute 2018 chassis v7 ( no side mount holes) SCS.dwg Tamiya Asute 2018 chassis v7 SCS.dwg

OMG there is no Y My eyes are terrible what a moron I am. I know have to remake the decals and sent them to Glenn.

Happy RCing is Glenn's tag line. I have seen him spell it "Happy RC'ing " but it looked weirder with apostrophe. Yes I know it looks like a spelling error. Happing Racing lol The decals are on top of the clear.

Looks great

Thank you all for the compliments. And in regard's to safety I did use the proper respirator mask while spraying each layer of paint base and clear. The website where I purchased the paint requires you to acknowledge that you need a respirator in order to safely apply the paint and to purchase the material.

Not an original body but has the decal scheme you are going for. MCI decals

I also painted a "alt" box paint job.

I used paint from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/?mallid=52&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_Na1BhAlEiwAM-dm7NCSaeOb_tZqqqaPmHcroo5kVQxck-hA3U-P4eyHPKju7AU5aEmHXBoCHmcQAvD_BwE (16 oz can) I believe its Sherman Williams automotive brand paint for the base color. The clearcoat is SprayMax 2K Clear Coat Spray Paint. The body is sanded with a grey 3M Scotch Bright automotive pad 800-1000 grit. Tamiya primer is used because its thin and leaves the details of the body. Autobody primer is to thick and can fill body lines. The mold lines are carefully sanded flush with 180 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit them wet sanded with 600 grit. I prime the body 2x. wet sanding with grey pad and 1000-1500 grit paper. Wash thoroughly with dawn soap and let air dry. Before applying the paint I cleaned the body with a lint free cloth and sprayway glass cleaner. Then went over it with an automotive tack cloth. The body is painted white first (for box art) and since its automotive base clear paint it can be handled and masked up within 2 hours. (sometimes sooner depending on the temp). With this body I had some mistakes so I let it dry for 2 days then lightly sanded it with 2500-3000 grit paper to makes sure the next layer of paint would stick. I used Tamiya fine tape for the roof section and 3M autobody fine line tape for the side and and kidney shapes on the hood. Once I was happy with both the white and blue sections I let it dry for a week. Wet sanded the body with 3000 grit paper (very lightly not to burn through the paint) washed it again and let it air dry. Clean with glass cleaner and tack cloth the body just before applying the clear. Make sure everything is clean because once you spray the clear its hard to fix any mistakes. First layer of clear must be lite and almost like the wasn't enough paint applied. after 5-10 mins you can add a thicker coat. The first coat of clear is like a "glue coat" the second and third (if needed) is you gloss coat. Let dry for a week let it dry......... Then paint the details as you like. Hope this helps

Sickpup, Thank you

More pics

Hello, Sharing pictures of the restoration process from my 1979 sand scorcher mk1. Automotive basecoat/clearcoat paint was used. Original shell was stripped of the purple paint with brake fluid. Mold lines sanded off. MCI decals to finish it off.

Thought I would share some photos of the painting process of the sand scorcher shell I painted for Glenn Barclay last November. Painting process used automotive basecoat/ clearcoat material in a can. 2K clear was used for high gloss.