[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

Bingo

PM me if you want them or if you are getting tired of the 959

Check out the original retailers price tag from 1989.

What alternatives are you looking at? The 959 is not suited to a static shelfer, it wants to be run..lots. I say get a modern power system and some spare rubber and have a blast.

There is a 1 year gap in your thread too, where is this 959 at?

Heh, no way I get rid of the old chap . I use it only for fun driving a few times a year. I managed to get rid of the silver paint from the wheels (they were soaking in brake fluid for a month and whenever I went by rub little paint of)and currently I am looking for tires, though they are very expensive. So now I am using 1:10 wheels/tires from current Tamiyas. It is an excellent car, hopefully I will manage to slowly repair it. It would need also new body, but this will come maybe later. Everything is expensive with this chap.

Heh, the original price is a bargain .

Anyway alternatives are thoroughly discussed in this post: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/lofiversio...php?t60390.html

PS: I responded to your PM, but I do not see it under Sent folder. Did you get it?

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

Cutting the comm or truing it, means to lathe cut the contact surface of the motor brush on the armature to make the surface perfectly level up and down and as perfectly round as possible.

this reduces brush bounce, and arching and increases the power a motor can put out.

http://www.rcracingusa.net/commcutting.htm

Technically stock motors require the commutator cut every 6-8 runs, modified 2-4, and very low turn motors with high timing every run to maintain performance.

that is why these type of motors are re-buildable.

Sadly not yet, though now I am looking at alternatives. Please check and let me know if you have it.

[Problem with electric motor with brushes]

Electric motors make lots of interesting noises at low voltages/loads. If you have an Electronic speed contol, that is the sound generated by the transitors (called fets) switching the power on & off more slowly which then becomes more audible. At high throttle angles, the sound frequency becomes so high pitched, you cannot hear it (it's masked by gear noise).

As for the difficulty turning the rotor shaft, that is normal. It's called cogging. It's the internal magnetic field pulling against the different segments of the rotor. In fact...a motor with a greater cogging effect will make more power than the same motor with weaker magnets. This is why some pro racers & motor builders used to buy magnet zappers. They then could recharge their magnets every time they rebuilt the motor. Motor magnets will slowly loose their "gauss" with heat cycles & age.

Interesting information. Though, when the motor was new, it was turning nicely, without ''stopping'' on some point. So shouldn't be this cogging effect present also in new motor?

Do you need some special comm lathe or professional (electricians use them for large motors) comm lathe would be fine?

And which comm lathe would be ok for cutting original Tamiya TT-01 Mabuchi motor, LRP Runner Special 4 and Technigold RX540-VZ? What are approximat costs of these?

Also one other question. When you cut the comm, do you always have to use new brushes?

[Problem with electric motor with brushes]

When I try to run it really slowly or when I accelerate slowly the car starts working with strange sound and as if gearing would be worn. So I checked all the gearing and they are perfect, then took out the motor and when I tried to turn it with hand I could feel that it is not turning nicely, but it turns than on some point there is as something is stopping it and so on. When I run it fast there is no problem with it and turns ok.

Does this mean that I have to change brushes or is something else wrong?

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

keep watching ebay the technigold brushes come up from time to time.

you could also use the Technipower brush if you wanted to.

I'm not really sure what the difference is between the technigold brush verse the technipower brush compound but the brushes fit in the cans. also the Dynatech motor used the same brush design.

one brush might be made of more copper then the other but i've never really looked at the difference.

---------------

'Madracer' once spoke about it: in this thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/lofiversio...php?t60390.html

"Yes you can use them all between them.

The instructions says only use Technigold brushes as performance will not be the same but that was just marketing hype ..

The differance is the technipower/tune motors you had to solder the pig tails on where the gold are pre soldered . Gold has vented brushes (large grooves to help bed in and keep com wear down.

The Dynatech are just plated gold brush holders. Will fit no problems.

I have all of these motors."

Cheers...

Thx, everything what I needed to know, though I am a little disappointed since it looks like I will have to true commutator and for now I do not even understand what that means . Will have to give a call to my colleague that is electrican.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

Does anyone know where I could get brushes for this motor? A year ago they were available on Ebay, but now nothing...

[Tamiya TT-01 problem with steering]

I've had similar problems in the past and it came down to the power cable socket where it goes into the ESC. I would just push down on the socket and the problem would be gone until it rattled out again.

I run a Super Stock in my one TT and has never had to worry about heat. If you have a lot of heat there might be a gearing problem? Sounds a bit difficult to do with a TT chassis though as it is almost impossible to miss match pinion and spur.

I will check also all the cables again, though I have checked them already.

Anyway gearing is correct. I have installed appropriate gearing to the hop-up motor with taking into account the possible combination of pinion and spur (see picture below).

Also original motor with original gearing became very hot after driving it for cca. 15 minutes at the temperature of 30 degrees of Celsius, so I would like to go for a heatsink with fan. I am checking these three:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=400207670087

http://cgi.ebay.com/Super-Light-Twin-Fan-H...=item336596cb69

http://cgi.ebay.com/36mm-x-65mm-540-550-Mo...=item3352e0f100

Especially the last one looks ok, I will have to cut the heatsink on the side that goes to the middle and in front, because there is plastic chassis, but the rest should fit. I did this on current heatsink. Of course the plastic cover of a motor that comes with TT-01E chassis had to go...

[Tamiya TT-01 problem with steering]

Looking at the specs for your receiver on LRP's website, I don't think it has a built in BEC circuit, so you're possibly putting too much power into your servo. The receiver may be able to handle 7.2 volts, but your servo is probably getting too hot then playing up. What make and model is the servo?

Hope this helps.

I will check next time if servo is overheating. Original Tamiya TSU-01 servo is installed.

[Tamiya TT-01 problem with steering]

I have checked few things and have remembered that this started to happen after I have changed the batteries in the car without switching off the car.

So I did a test today and changed the battery with car switched off and there were no problems. I will do few more tests during weekend.

I have checked the manual of RC controller and there is no fail safe mode described.

Anyway, does anyone use alu heatsing with cooling fan? Which do you use, since there is very little space for this in TT-01 chassis?

[Tamiya TT-01 problem with steering]

I have A TT-01 with following hop-ups:

- ESC is regular from TT-01

- motor is LRP Runner Special 4: http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electric-mot...cial-4/details/

- radio set is LRP A3-STX Deluxe and A3-RX Deluxe (http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/transmitters...gs-set/details/

- oil dumpers, etc.

The problem is that after cca. 10 minutes of driving the steering just turnes fully left and then it does not react to anything. Then I was checking it and it started to work again (I changed batteries, etc.). It took some 5 minutes to work on it. When the steering is blocked forward and backward works, so the car runs in circules. What I have noticed is that now when the temperatures are higher (cca. 20 degrees of Celsius) the motor is quickly hot. Is there some kind of temperature sensor or where should I look for the problem? Is it radio set? Anyway, I am using NiMh batteries, could this be a problem, to little of power from batteries? Because one time that this problem occured, I have changed the batterie to full charged and it started to work normally.

I also have additional question: currently I have an alu heatsink, but I will have to buy heatsink with cooling fan. What should I buy that will be compatible, since TT-01 has very limited space around the motor?

[Tamiya Tlu-01 Light Unit Connectors]

I think they are known as jst ph 2 pin connectors, they are available from places like RS and Farnell. There was a thread previously too somewhere.

Here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55994

Google "jst ph" and you should be able to find them online.

Thx for your help. Finally I got them (from Farnell) and it works perfect.

[Tamiya Tlu-01 Light Unit Connectors]

I am trying to find connectors for Tamiya TLU-01 light unit for already two months, but no luck. I tried in different stores with electronic equipment but no go.

Does anyone know what type of connectors are they? And where to get them? I do not need complete set with LED lights, because this I already have. Only connectors.

The picture of connector that I would need:

[Two Spare Parts For Tt 01e]

I would need the following two spares for my Tamiya TT 01E chassis. I do not need alu hop-ups (though if the price would be acceptable also this would be an option (link to parts would be appreciated)), but an original plastic parts (also used would be ok).

As I have checked for front upper arms set 51003 Tamiya TT-01 B Parts ( http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Tamiya-TT-01-...m-p/ta51003.htm ) should be ok. But since I would need only an upper arm, is it possible to get only this? Or is the only option to buy complete set?

But for front upright I found this 51318 Tamiya TT-01E A Parts - Upright ( http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Tamiya-TT-01E...t-p/ta51318.htm ). but I am not so sure, since there is only one upright. Shouldn't be two uprights in a set?

Thx for useful advices.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

I have one new question. Is it possible to get the year when one particular car was produced?

I know they have started to build these beauties in 1986. When was the last car produced?

[How To Repair Lexan Body]

Since my car had a few meetings with walls and other stuff (especially with previous owner) its body is in quite bad shape. Few parts are broken and barelly holding to the rest of the body.

Is it possible to fix this in DIY way? The car is Tamiya 959 so new body is not an option, since it would cost a fortune.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

A question for those that you are running 959s.

I have been driving it today fast for approximately 5 minutes and checked the motor that was a little warm. After that I have reduced speed and just walk it around the parking slot. But after a few more minutes the motor was really hot, so I stopped. Is this normal? I thought that driving slowly will cool down the motor, but it did the opposite. And it was not so warm outside, the temperature was 9 degrees Celsius.

Anyway, I have decided that when I receive TT-01, I will put 959 completely to pieces and rebuild it from start. It deserves that.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

You can find the manual in high resolution here: http://www.tamiyabase.com/manuals/manuals.htm

-Lars

Thx for this link, now I have it .

Thx also to others especially for notice on motor mounting wrong. Anyway, now that I have manual I will work with that and check everything carfully, though it might take some time.

Also I managed to charge the battery today and Tamiya runs perfect . It was a pure joy .

[Can I Charge 7,2v Battery With 9,6v]

I have a standard 7,2V six cell NiMh 3600mAh SUB-C LRP battery for TT-01. I am waiting to get my charger, but until then I would also like to charge this battery, even if it would be DIY way .

Anyway, I have found at home one old charger that was used for charging 9,6V battery that was composed of 8 AA NiMh cells. Output stated on the charger is: DC 9.6V 250mA.

Can I use it for a few charging cycles (of course, according to charging power I would have to charge the battey for approximately cca. 15 hours, but this is not a problem for me)? Will this work? Or will I ruin the battery? Battery is old not a new one.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

I own one, put I'm no expert.

1. Maybe start with the manual: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=59

I have already tried, but I cannot get a medium resolution pages although I am registered. Any help on this?

2. Yep, looks original.

Great .

3. eBay and here: http://www.rcrallyraiders.com/Tamiya%20Por...59%20wheels.htm

Nice wheels, though currently there are 1:10 wheels installed (of course with different wheel axes), so I would need only tires 1:12. I do not like unoriginal parts so much, so for driving I will use the tires and wheels already installed, but I would like to get 1:12 tires for looks when it is flashing of the shelf . Though, as I have checked Ebay a little bit, this will come later on, because 90 USD for tires is currently to much for me. I will first try to solve the body, though also there we are talking about 100 USD + work. Hihi, I have already got the message, that the initial cost was the smallest problem .

Anyway I would need a practise bumber if somebody has one spare .

4. Brake fluid.

I have already thought about that and I will try slowly on inner side. Hope it will not melt also the plastic wheels .

5. Definitely do a full strip down and rebuild.

Will try, but I am new in this, so I am still trying to collect the courage to open differentials, etc. Because disassembling is easy, putting it back together so that it works, this is a tiny problem from my side .

A question here: when you open differential, does everything collapses or it sticks together, so you can do part by part?

Are you going to keep this as a runner, or retire her to the shelf?

A runner definitely. It would be a shame not to drive ti, since it drives so perfectly. But not on a dirt or race track. This is only for my enjoyment on nearby parking spot on a nice sunny Sunday:). Although also my daughter (2 years old) is slowly catching up with this crazy joy for car models, so she will drive it most probably. I am just waiting to get a brand new TT-01 for me (or her, it is yet to be seen, what she will like the most ).

Anyway, I have a problem with the battery and still no charger, so I hope that it has no problems with driving. That would be great. Currently I have only tested it a little bit, because the battery has not been used, so if I give it a full throttle it only stops, but if I slowly ad the throttle than it is ok. Hope that it is really a battery problem and not something else.

My plans are as follows:

1.) Complete cleaning and oiling all the parts.

2.) New battery and charger for a proper test drive.

3.) Installation of practise bumper (first I have to get it).

4.) Body exchange or repair.

5.) Original tire installation.

6.) Installation of lights. Is this complex? What do I have to get?

But all this done slowly, because as I see this will not be a cheap hobby.

Anyway, nice restoration from your side . Hope it drives as it looks. Do you drive it?

PS: Could you take a high resolution pictures of your 959, so that I could check if there is something unoriginal on mine? I do not need the pictures of the body but the chassis, motor and other parts. I would appreciate that.

[Tamiya Porsche 959 4wd]

Finally I have also managed to get this legend in my hands. It is not in a mint condition, but I am really happy to get it. It drives great, though it shows that previous owners really used it for what it was intended.

As far as I have noticed by now, it does not have original wheels and tires (though I got also original wheels but painted in silver ), there are no lights and body is in the front quite damaged, because prevoius owner did not use the front bumper (though I got this also ).

Now, I have a few questions:

1.) What should I service? How are oil shock absorbers services? Are there any online guides for this? I would like also to oil all moving parts. Is there any online guide? Video would be prefered since I am new in this.

2.) Is the motor original? Because there is no sign on it. It should be, but how can I check?

3.) Where could I get tires for original wheels? Are there any substitutes?

4.) How can I remove the silver paint from original wheels without damaging them?

5.) Should I check some parts that could be damaged?

And the pictures: