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About Dephcon5

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  • Birthday 12/14/1966

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  • Location
    Dallas Texas
  • Interests
    a few

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  1. It's been maybe 15 years since I restored my last 58005 Countach and now I find I have time to do another. This one is in decent shape but the original builder used CA to fix the windscreen to the shell and I need to remove it to preserve it. It actually has no cracks. In any case, does anyone have any thought on how to loosen CA from the plastic without using something that risk melting the plastic like acetone? Thanks in advance Dephcon5
  2. after 7 years of stalling, I am finally getting around to restoring my original 58048 - Toyota 4x4. The gear box is covered in silicone but I need to get that removed. Any thought as to how to clean the silicone?
  3. Geox actually, also made in China now. Some of the styles are not available in the US. My Doc's are 7 years old and still in excellent condition. Normally I have my cousin ship from Italy however my cousins in Italy are on holiday and if I am honest, sometimes they are not the easiest to deal with. Anyway, thank you Scott for the offer. If you PM me an address I will have them ship to you.
  4. Been a while since I posted on these forums. New house had me very busy but soon I will be returning to Tamiya with all the enthusiasm of my youth. I however need a small favor from someone in the UK, perhaps one who may recognize me (Dephcon5) from the earlier days of TC. I wish to make a purchase from the UK, but the retailer does not ship to the USA and I could use some help if someone would not mind. It is just a pair of shoes and all I need is someone to accept the delivery then forward to me, all expenses paid by me of course. George
  5. for sale I have a 12th scale Associated RC12R5 with a brushless tekin 17.5 and an RS pro, many spare tires and 2 bodys 58393 BMW Z4 Racing Coupe TT01 chassis, has upgraded center shaft. comes with orig box and manual 58342 Lancia Delta Integrale TT01 Finished Body. comes with orig box and manual 58315 Raybrig NSX 2003 TB02 chassis, upgraded center shaft, orig box and manual included. All the above are runners in good condition and will show up at your door almost ready to run, just add radio and batt. If you want pics email me, I will combine for shipping, items ship from Dallas Texas USA (Im not in NY City any more) Shipping at cost UPS world wide. Make me an offer on anything if interested. dephcon5 yahoo Thanks george
  6. which airbrush are you guys using?
  7. You can dye parts without boiling them, just soak at room temp. Use a concentrated dye and let it soak in a plastic container for a day or so. Longer the soak, the darker the color. The boiling of nylon parts was two fold. One, it speeds up the coloring process and two, it releases nylon of stress points in the plastic and makes it a little stronger. I use Rit with good results, most any should do.
  8. Im in Ozone Park Queens, and a few members are in Brooklyn, some out on LI.
  9. "A-DEE-DUS" and "TAM-eye-YA" for me..... then again I'm from New York. Never mind.
  10. Finding a postal relay is always easy. Tamiyaclub members seem to be among the best of people from around the world. I myself have shipped many parcels all over the world on behalf of other TC members. I was always glad to do so and I am sure you will find others just as willing. I had many relay packages shipped to me from all over Europe. Below is a pic of packages I had sent a few Christmas seasons ago, all to the UK and one to Netherlands.
  11. POOH! I had one a few years back and tossed it. DOH!
  12. Ozone Park here. I tried to get a NY bash together some 5 or 6 years ago but had little interest. Coney Island? FBF? Central Park? I'll run any time any where.
  13. Having painted *many* shells I can say most any paint for a 1:1 will work and if it is to achieve a particular factory car color then it is certainly the best way to go if its something way off the Tamiya color charts. I have used both Chrysler and Ford paint codes and cans to paint Tamiyas. If there was any problem I would only suggest that the Tamiya paints are very thin and allow all the details to shine through where some 1:1 paints may hide details due to their weight. 1:1 paints are made to hold up to the environment of a 1:1 and may be slightly heaver than model paints. But in response to the original question I would say the 1:1 finish may influence the overall detail on a model and hide it somewhat. But you will get the exact color you want which in the end may be all your interested in.
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