photogdave

Thanks for the info. I didn't really want to go into lipo as I'm only running one car and can't really invest in a whole new battery system. I've found a local battery specialist who is going to clean and re-solder my NiMH, so I'll give that a go and post results.

Nice one Thanos! That looks like what I need. If I can't find it anywhere in North America I'll order it. Bringing it into Canada makes it a little pricey but I haven't got much choice it seems. Cheers, Dave

Hi, I've been running a Venom 7.2v modified to hump-style to fit in my Scorcher, but I keep having to re-solder the Deans connectors as they have come loose from corrosion. (Too much beach action!) Even then, they don't keep a reliable connection so basically it's a major PITA. I'm hoping to find a good quality stock battery to do the job but after much searching here there doesn't seem to be too many choices. I'm looking at this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Venom-5-Cell-6V-420...#ht_2426wt_1017 or this: http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-49171-t...ery-p-6819.html Any thoughts on which will work better? Thanks!

I did my first beach run this weekend and didn't find the box, gear case or motor cover to be very resistant to anything! So I've got a big chore ahead to clean out all the sand. Any tips?

^

Just wondering if anyone has any nifty methods for getting their cars, radios etc. to your driving locations? There's a couple of places close to my house - too close to drive but too far to just casually walk there, swinging the Scorcher by the bumper. How to carry it? Canvas shopping bag? Rolling suitcase? How about when you take your R/C camping? I saw a thread here where someone was using rubber storage bins. I'm thinking Pelican case, but they are expensive. Any thoughts?

You can snug the HD Hero cam right in the cockpit. I'm going to try it next week in my Sand Scorcher.

That looks really cool. Great use of a Grasshopper! Good job on the driver too. I'm painting mine right now and he's gonna end up looking like a zombie! (Not on purpose )

Yeah, my Tiger Van would go great with your Willy! Wait...that sounds kinda wrong! For the record it's an 82 Westfalia converted from a diesel to a 1.8L GTI motor.

Thanks! I am referring to when the car is stationary, but I noticed on a test drive that it was riding low as well. The skid plate was getting scratched on some small stones and the tire was rubbing on the engine wires. The shock on that side is leaking too!

I've finally finished my Scorcher, with thanks to the forum for all the tips! I cleaned up some of the mistakes best I could and strategically placed some decals in some of the nastier spots. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out, especially considering it's my first real model and it's going to be a runner. I'll probably pick up a second shell and try to do a real nice paint job as a winter project. I just have to finish the driver and attach the windshield wipers. They seem a bit finicky - is it common to glue them right to the windshield? Also - off topic I know - the rear shocks don't rebound well and the car ends up sitting too low. Should I put more oil in the shocks? I was probably a bit conservative when I filled them... Cheers!

I'm having a similar problem and it's not the torsion bar. Also the car seems to sit too low, causing the motor wires to rub the inside of the tire. Any ideas? Maybe not enough oil in the shocks?

Thanks to both of you. Will try the WD40 tonight. Next time at my LHS I'll stock up on proper masking tape!

Thanks James - good tips! I did manage to figure out steps 4-7 from researching this site and others, but clearly the lack of prep was my enemy! I was scared to get into sanding and filling. I've never been good at that kind of stuff. I will definitely try the hot water trick next time. Does that apply to the clear coat too?

I think I'll take a little bit from everyone here and touch it up the best I can for now so I can get running, then maybe strip it down this winter and repaint it. I think I'll still get a second body and maybe do a one-tone paint scheme on that one! Thanks for all the advice!

Thanks for the quick replies! Right on the money - I did rush it and I know it. I just want to DRIVE! The hybrid approach sounds good. Can I decant from the spray can to touch up with a brush? This is all new to me!

Hi, looking for advice on this one. Nearing completion of my Sand Scorcher ReRe build. This is the only model I've ever built in my whole life, except for a Kyosho Pegasus when I was 14. Of course that was a lexan body sprayed on the inside. Anyway, I've just finished spraying the shell and although I wasn't expecting perfection, there are a couple of booboos I'm not happy with. Since I was impatient and figure I'm making this one to be the runner while I probably get another body later to paint properly, I didn't bother with much prep and I guess my masking job was a bit crude. I used leftover green Painters Mate from painting some rooms in my house. (I'm fully prepared to flamed for this!) So the tape left a bit of residue and my rough masking left some ugly edges. Looking at the photos can anyone tell me if there is a simple way to fix the mistakes? Should I even bother knowing that I'm going to get a different body down the road and try and do it proper? The paint I used was Model Master Custom Lacquer. Thanks for any suggestions!

I had the guy at my LHS modify my 7.2V battery to fit in the box of my new Sand Scorcher. You have to careful where you place the cel on top so the lid fits on properly. Simple mod, no problems.

Well, no problems with the placement of the components. The owner at my LHS modified my 7.2V battery pack by putting one of the cels at the top and it all fits. Took her for her first test run tonight, sans body, and it seemed to run pretty good except for a couple of grub screws loosening. Re-applied threadlock and tightened the screws (happy not to lose them!) and all seems to be good! Can't wait to paint the body but it's going to have be after my vacation...

Thanks for the replies guys! Kevin - nice to hear that I'm not barking up the wrong tree by swapping the receiver and ESC positions. That was my biggest worry. I have a Futaba 2.4GHZ set, and as this is new technology to me!

Hi everyone. This is my first build in over 20 years so I'm a newbie again. I'm just putting the radio bits in and the receiver's antenna is too short to get to the rear antenna post. The instructions say if this happens to mount the antenna to the top of the radio box using the antenna pipe. The instructions DON"T say how this affects the way the body mounts. Would I have to put a hole in the body or just stick the pipe out the back window? I'm thinking I'd rather swap the position of the receiver with the ESC so the antenna will stretch to the rear mount. Any problems with this idea? I guess I'd be worried the battery heat may melt the motor cables if they are underneath it. Thanks for any advice!