Type49rs

Have just compared the re-re gold springs with the originals. The fronts are indeed the same in terms of length, number of coils and wire gauge. The re-re rears on the other hand are about 3mm shorter and have a total of 10 coils instead of 12. The really good news is that gold colour is exactly the same as a new pair of originals I have

Let's see, I built up an Evo some time ago, this is going from what I can remember. Additional Evo parts are: graphite chassis and top deck, beefed up front and rear shock towers, ally shocks, lightweight diffs, uJ's in the rear, adjustable turnbuckles, beefier tierod ends, titanium screws throughout, full bearing set, torque splitter, lightweight kingpins, ballraced steering, titanium hinge pins, and off course the obvious things like orange wheels and Evo decals which are getting harder to find by the day. There maybe a few other things that i've forgotten but thats the main upgrades. I really like your idea of running it against modern competition - been thinking about that myself.[] John

Agreed Darryn. I've got one in each of my race cars and reckon they're brilliant. No more forgetting to put the handout transponder in the car, and no more being late to the start line due to the previous guy still having it in his car. One you've used them you wouldn't want to go back. John

I too got my re-re Thundershot a few days ago[]. The inclusion of the wing is a great idea but the lack of wing decals is wee bit dissapointing. Also the wing is now mounted to the back of the body shell with screws, as opposed to the original (and far superior) system where it was mounted to the rear shock tower via an adjustable steel mount. I haven't built mine yet but at a glance other changes appear to be that the lower suspension arms now have small webs added for extra strength, the decal sheet has a few different sponsors, the motor mounting plate is now silver as opposed the original black. I'm sure there are more but I have to wait till Xmas day to build mine.[]

Del, it's your lucky day.[] YGM

They've hit ebay[] Just ordered mine from Jr-rc. I've told myself that i'm not going to open it till Xmas day.[]

quote:Originally posted by dunebuggy71Is this the optional rear wing, i see on the left corner of this kit ? ! Is it now included in the new version ? Would be great ![] id="quote">id="quote">I think you're right about the wing[]. I've just decided what i'm buying myself for Xmas[].

quote: Originally posted by Mr.Nismo The car that was run-over was the Tamiya Porsche 956. id="quote">id="quote"> [][][]

I remember seeing it many years ago. It was called 'Hotshots' and it was actually made in New Zealand. It was based in the Auckland area and I was recently told that one of the local RC clubs helped out with the production. I'm very surprised that it was screened in Holland. From memory the acting (infact the whole series) was a bit amateurish. I do remember an RC car being run over by a full sized car - can't remember what it was, just hope it wasn't a Tamiya[:0] John

quote:Originally posted by GruntfugglyHmmm - are you sure? Personally I don't think you can get a much more daft name than the Tomy Intruder, apart from of course, the Intruder "Adonis"... id="quote">id="quote">It's purely my opinion - that said 'yes' I am quite sure.[] Come on guys, lets help Darryn out here and keep those votes coming in.

1-COX BANDITO 2-TAMIYA MANTA RAY 3-NICHIMO LUMINOUS 4-TRAXXAS TRX-1 5-HITEC/ARISTOCRAFT KANGAROO 6-TAMIYA FIGHTER BUGGY 7-TAMIYA SAINT DRAGON 8-TAMIYA BUSH DEVIL 9-TAMIYA SONIC FIGHTER 10-TAMIYA BULLHEAD Tamiya definately takes top spot for stupidest 'car names' of all time.[:0]

The one on my restored Brat is the re-issue one. I simply cut it at the weak points, bolted it to the body and glued it back together in place. This works fine for a shelf queen but I would suspect it wouldn't be strong enough for a runner.

Hey Del, hows things. I've checked out my KC and taken a few measurements for you. The front springs are 78mm long free length, the rears are 83mm. The extended length of the front and rear shocks is 107mm measured to the mounting holes. Good to hear from you again. John

Great thread Darryn.[8D] I can't wait to see the results in R/C Car magazine (provided it goes to print but i'm sure it will). Some interesting fuglies so far but the one that really surprises me is the Striker, especially when you compare it to some of weird looking machines already mentioned in this thread. Sure it's not everybody's idea of a decent rc car but it's not really that ugly - just a little different! Anyway here's my picks: TAMIYA -The good old Manta Ray - great chassis, drive train and suspension but what were Tamiya thinking when they designed that bodyshell. And now they're about to re-release it![xx(] I remember years ago when the Super Sabre was released. I believe it was a turning point for Tamiya as far as body styling goes. Most Tamiya cars up to that point had an air of realism. The Super Sabre had a new age look - 'spacetech engineering' was the term used and it was continued on the Thundershot, Avante and other subsequent cars. I don't reckon the Super Sabre, Thundershot and Avante looked all that bad but it did start a new trend for Tamiya that slowly got worse[V]. NON-TAMIYA -Fastboy beat me to it -the Traxxis TRX-1. I'll admit that I did race one of these many years ago and they were a great car as far as performance goes but the shell looked like it was from another planet. I guess it wasn't molded like that for good looks but more for the purpose of aerodynamics - basically one huge wing on wheels[] but it was very effective. I'm sure there's loads more but those ones stand out for me. John

The trick with the silver can motors is to bed the brushes in without ruining the commutator. When you buy a new motor, take a look through the slots in the can and you will see that the profile of the brush faces is completely different to the shape of the comm - infact there is very little brush contact at all. The idea is to get full brush contact in order to obtain good performance. The brushes in these motors are extremely hard and seem to take forever to bed in. Each racer has there own special way of achieving this. The water dip method has been around for years and does speed up the break-in process but does affect the comm to a certain degree. More recently I have been experimenting with the slave motor method. This is where you take an old motor and a new motor, couple the pinion shafts together and use the old motor to drive the new motor. The new motor rotates but does not have any current running through it, therefore no arcing occurs and the comm stays in good condition. End result (in theory) is fully bedded in brushes + nice clean comm =good performing motor. Everbody has their own theories and methods (and some racers will never spill the beans), but this is what seems to work for me. I'm really keen to hear what other racers do.[] My next plan is to try the slave method under water.[] John