Type49rs

quote:Originally posted by DJTheoYou can get the numbers here http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcpss.php...ts&kit_id=58346 Also http://www.rcgrabbag.com/store/index.htm makes repro body parts. Cheers id="quote">id="quote">Thanks for the rcgrabbag link Theo[] I was looking for that site a couple of days ago but couldn't find it. Cheers for that.

Hey, look on the bright side - at least you have a LHS.[] The nearest hobbyshop to me is over 3 hours drive away so if I need anything it's 1-2 days away via post (and thats if they have it in stock).[V]

I go through hot and cold periods too, but i never do anything drastic like selling big chunks of my collection. For me it's a matter of finding a balance. Generally during the winter i put most of my time, effort and money toward my vintage tamiya addiction. During the summertime most of my time, effort and money goes toward my electric touring car racing at the local club. I can't really afford to do both full-on at the same time but this way i get the best of both worlds without suffering from burnout. Basically, yes you can have too much of a good thing (thats my excuse anyway).[:0]

Are you priming the shell first? Any hard body should be primed before applying the top coats. It gives the paint something to bite onto. Light colours benifit from having white primer applied first. The italian red will never look any good when applied straight onto a black shell. use the tamiya white (fine) primer first, then lightly sand it (i use a really old piece of worn out 1200 grit) then apply the red in very fine coats, allowing 10 or so minutes between coats, and 'gradually' apply the paint in 'slightly' thicker quantities. It is an acquired skill and the only way to learn is by practising. Good luck.[]

Marshalling cars on club racedays is a highly physical activity. Infact sometimes it can be referred to as a blood'sport'.[:0][]

Excellent cars and a very good choice indeed. I have two of them and have raced them both continually for the last 18 months. During that time I haven't broken a single part, the diffs are still perfect and i'm still on the original belts and pulleys. The only things that i've replaced are the o-rings in the shocks and the blades on inner end of the driveshafts -just normal wear and tear items that are really cheap to replace. Performance is excellent and the drivetrain is extremely efficient. I'm sure you won't be dissapointed.[]

When i first started racing about 20 years ago i used to keep a record of every penny i spent. Every now and then i'd have a tally up and it was getting a bit scary. I ended up burning that list and now two decades later i'd hate to think about how much i've now spent. But at the end of the day i don't really care as i've had so much fun doing RC and have made so many great friends in the process. I even met my wife through RC cars. I could have spent my money on far worse things so i have absolutely no regrets (even about getting married[])Some people choose to spend their hard earned cash on cigarettes, gambling or alcohol, i choose to spend mine on RC cars (and a little bit on alcohol)[]

Very good spotting Michael.[^] I've looked back through all my old catalogues and the picture is the same one. It seems to me that Tamiya have done a spot of photo editing. If you look very closely at the 'ROB MITCHELL RACING' on the left side, you can actually see a mirror reflection in the red/orange paint. It is clearly a reflection of 'BOB MAYNARD RACING'!!! [:0] My assumption is that maybe it was copyright thing.[?] It does however seem strange to me that the 'RMR' decals were not changed to 'BMR'[] Cheers John

In no particular order: 1)Sand Scorcher (realistic suspension and shell) 2)Bruiser (mention 3 speed to me and the Bruiser always comes to mind) 3)Hotshot (a milestone being Tamiya's first 4WD buggy) 4)Wild One (for its realism) 5)Top Force Evolution (appeals to the racer in me) Luck for me I have all of these in near mint condition with the exception of thr Bruiser.[V] Sure they come up for sale all the time but i'm a cheapskate and live in hope for that once in a lifetime cheap bargain.[]

Chris, you're a legend. I can't wait.[^]

"The remote control race car bible". Thats fantistic Shodog, it even has the original price tag of $10.95 on it. I wonder what its worth now? John

quote:Originally posted by vtecboostJohn would you have the ISBN number of that book. I had one many moons ago! Cheers David id="quote">id="quote">No sorry David, it was 20 years ago since I last laid eyes on it and I don't plan on going back to my old school to see if its still there (but now you've got me thinking.......)[] John

quote: Originally posted by TWINSET I don't look for them very often, but I got this from 1985 [] Not sure if guide books are a big thing over here - my local store keeps a couple of those American books in, even though they don't sell the mag itself id="quote">id="quote"> Holy **** Twinset, that brings back some memories. I remember looking at that book in the school library some 20 odd years ago!! [:0] It was so popular that there was about a one month waiting list to get it out. These were the days RC was really at it's peak.[] John

Opps. Wrong way round. The original TF and TF Evo both had a moulded raised area at the front to clear the front gearbox. The Neo TF does not. It appears to have a longer front on it that extends forward between the front shocks.

Somebody asked the same question ages ago. I think the reply was that the XB had an extra bump towards the front of the shell. Maybe somebody else could confirm this.

It depends what type of motor you're talking about. Generally silver cans are no problem (an old racing trick was to run them in a glass of water to help break in the brushes). 27 turn rebuildables should be ok but modifieds have bearings in them and of course bearings don't like getting wet![]

Superchamp please Chris.[]

I just fitted geniune Losi bearings to mine. The drivetrain is alot smoother now but there is still alot of play in the wheels. The play appears to be where the inner race fits the shaft (both front and rear). The shafts are definately not worn out because i've only run one pack through it with the original bushings. I'm probably being too fussy but i would have expected alot better from a leading RC manufacturer like Losi.[V] But that said, they're still a cool car.[8D]

Hi Rhodo I believe the correct SS colours are TS10 french blue and TS7 racing white although most TC members use TS26 pure white instead as it gives a much brighter finish than the yellowish racing white -your preference. Also welcome to TC. John

Congrats Rich. I just did the marriage thing two weeks ago and she didn't even make me sell any of my Tamiya's to help pay for the wedding![] But then I haven't been able to buy any new cars or parts for the last three months either.[V] But on a brighter note we did buy each other Losi Mini-T's on our honeymoon.[8D]

The most popular rebuildable stock currently on the market appears to be the Trinity Monster Pro. I've just bought one but haven't tried it yet but most other racers here in New Zealand are using them. Shaft drive or belt drive shouldn't be an issue as most modern tourers have extremely efficient drive trains. The main thing to remember is not to overgear them.

Ahhhhh! I was wondering what that green thingy was for. Excellent idea.[^]

I believe the year was 1979.

Must have been lots of **** on TV......worldwide![]

Thanks for the link James.[] I just love the Anglia...... and the Mk1 Escort....... and the Capri....... okay I like them all.[] Just a pity they don't do a Mk2 Esky (with forest flares of course). I'd really like to do a replica of Ari Vatanen's Rothmans car or Roger Clark's Cossack car. Nothing like a challenge! Cheers John