Type49rs

How about: Lazer ZX-5 Lazer ZX-5 Turbo Lazer ZX-5 SE Lazer ZX-5 SP Lazer ZX-5 Custom Special And all the other ones that I can't remember![:0] Beginning to sound familiar?[] But seriously I'd buy one if the price is right.[]

Soft. Generally I like to run most of my cars when I first aquire them just to see what they go like. Once they're stripped down and fully restored I can't bring myself to running them in fear of damaging them. More recently, I've been building up second examples of some of my cars (using leftovers from the restos) to use for thrashing....HARD![]

That looks awesome! I like the idea of shaft drive, no more dirt entering the transmission housings like on the old Lazers. Infact the new car doesn't look like a Kyosho but more like a Yokomo SD tourer with offroad suspension[:0]. Best thing is that Kyosho have gone with the old LWB Mid body shell, one of the coolest shells ever made[^]. I hope they're available at an affordable price, all that carbon fibre and blue alloy tells me otherwise[V]. Cheers John

Hi Jim, Nice job.[] I was wondering if you had considered making some Wild Willy repro front grilles (the vertical one)? I'm looking for one and after looking in the trades section here on TC, it appears that heaps of other members are too. Obviously I don't have a new one for you to use as a pattern but perhaps one else here does? Anybody else keen? Cheers John

quote:Originally posted by jimbob4000WOW and I thought £1000 for a bruiser a bit bashed and bruised ( get it[]) was bad. I'd hate to see the look on BigBoy389's face[] Adam id="quote">id="quote">Funny... I'd love to see the look on BigBoy389's face.[:0]

I saw it too. I bet someones going to be extremely dissapointed (and peeved) when they open their parcel.[]

quote:Originally posted by poulpitI use one thin film of dry adhesive, "sandwiched" between two siliconed paper. For me, it's the best method... I think you can find them in a pictures local shop. I'm lucky, the adhesive factory when I'm working makes them![] Cheers, François. id="quote">id="quote">I tried this a couple of days ago (after reading about it on another thread here at TC[8D]). I had some old Scorcher "506"s that had somehow lost their original backing and had all sorts of **** stuck to them. Gave them a clean with solvent and applied them to the shell with the "sandwiched adhesive" and they look perfect.[] Sure beats buying new (original) decals. $$$$$!!!!!

I ran a techigold with a 112B in my old Thudershot. I used it pretty much every weekend for well over a year with no problems at all. Must have got a good one. []

....and the Melling Thunderbird.[]

I agree with Kaindi.[] I just checked my Marui spares and its definately from the Ninja.

When I used to race gas cars I found the best way was to start the hole with a tapered body hole reamer, then use a dremel to enlarge the hole to the required size. If you don't have a dremel you could use an electric drill equiped with a dremel grinding bit. It should give a nice smooth factory looking finish. Hope this helps.[] John

quote: Originally posted by netsmithUK Thats easy, I just appoint relatives. id="quote">id="quote"> Chris, you're beginning to sound like a mobster![]

Any of the 12 currently available 27meg xtals should work fine together. I've been to race meetings where the entire 10 car A-main have been running 27meg with no problems at all. Personally I prefer 29 meg xtals (in New Zealand) but not many new radio sets come on 29meg as its not a legal frequency range in most parts of the world.[V]

And if none of the above ideas work then completely fill the diff with superglue[:0] like the previous owner of my King Cab did!!!![] John

Gidday Mike From memory the original Mid came with the 240ST motor. It was a pretty mild motor, although I can't remember the exact wind but I don't think it was ballraced or had adjustable timing (somebody else may be able to clarify this) so wasn't really a race orientated motor. Your 14 turn motor should be okay. Back in the day we used anything from 15 to 21 turn motors. My personal favourite was the infamous Reedy Red Dot 17 double (sorry just reminiscing []). Battery technology has come a long way since then. The drivetrain was quite robust, just make sure the gearboxes and belt covers are properly sealed to keep the dirt out. The main weakness would have to be the idler gear (part no OT85). They are renowned for wearing out. SRM (later known as RW) used to make a replacement gear (from tufnol I think) but these would be getting scarce now.[xx(] Cheers John[8D]

Wow, I've been out of town for the last 5 days and totally missed all the excitement.[] Good on ya Jerry and Happy B/day for the other day. Congrats to Adam and hard luck to Paul - you nearly got there. Cheers John

Sounds like things are looking up for you.[]I recently won a Superchamp on ebay. It went missing for about six weeks somewhere between the US and here (New Zealand). I was getting really worried but then got the news that the package had turned up on the sellers doorstep. Turns out that he addressed the parcel incorrectly. He was very regretful and for the inconvenience he included a bag full of spare parts. [] I hope your situation works out okay. John

Seems pretty obvious to me - its a camouflage paint job that the owner uses for rock crawling.[][]

Yep, I use old tyres too - the cars don't have a tendancy to slip off. Who said old tyres don't give good traction![]

Hi Jeff YGM.[] Cheers, John

I too had this problem. Somebody had drilled a transponder hole in my Topforce. Easy solution is to use a small section of clear decal (the excess cutoff bits from any tamiya decal sheet) and place it over the hole. Simply paint in the appropriate body colour from the inside. Check out the topforce in my showroom - bet you can't find the repair. [] John

Nice job. I did a similar resto on a Monster Beetle window, except after the sanding was done, I finished the job with some Tamiya rubbing compound. It came out like brand new. Well pleased.[]

Hi Mike Yeah, will repaint the 956 as soon as I've finished stripping the old **** off. After reading this thread I shall try nitro fuel - will keep you posted on progress. Did I mention that it's painted inside and out....[V][] John

Hi Guys I too am a little confused about this nitro fuel thing. I used to run a Mugen MTX2 for which I had 3 different body shells. All of them were sprayed with Tamiya polycarb paint. On several occasions I have spilt fuel on the shell while refueling and it had no effect. Should the shell be left soaking for a period of time before the paint softens? Is there a prefered nitro percentage that should be used (I ran with 15%)? Mike - I hope you haven't ruined your new shell.[] John

Hi Gilby and welcome to TC. Awesome looking RC10! [8D] Are the aluminium parts chromed or just highly polished? John