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MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. You could bolting the axles above the leaf springs rather than below, although I imagine would introduce all sorts of clearance issues to be resolved.
  2. GF-01 Dump Truck is an excellent model. Handles way better than a lunch box, is 4wd, and can still to wheelies. It's also durable against 'junior' drivers ..
  3. Ordered a new shell and sticker set for my re-re hotshot. Going to see what it looks like in Avante metallic blue
  4. I'm definitely in the 'HotRodder' section..............
  5. Can't remember if I've mentioned it in this thread already, but I'd really like to see a HotShot II re-release. I'd settle just for a re-release of an update kit to convert a HSI re-release (Bodykit, and the sprue with the underguard and rear shock tower). I'd go aftermarket on the shocks and get some Chinese shocks anodised metallic red, rather than the dull red of the original shocks. Failing that, how about a boomerang chassis with a winger body as a new 'vintage' kit, with some black egress wheels
  6. If you put a bit of grease in the drive cup the O-rings don't fall out . Once the dogbone and rubber boot are fitted they don't go anywhere. With regards to the track rod ends for the steering, I didn't even see that bit of the manual about cutting them down, I just fitted mine as normal. This might be why my steering occasionally catches the edge of the track rod end on things...........
  7. I've just put my re-re hotshot back together after giving it its first stripdown in 14 years :). It's fitted with a vintage HP suspension kit, and when re-assembling the front suspension I didn't have to compress the front shocks in order to fit them. My shocks were fitted with the knurled nuts. At full compression the front suspension leaves about 8mm of clearance between the bumper plate and the ground (I've got the supershot underguard fitted which reduces ground clearance slightly more). It sounds wrong that there is barely any suspension travel if the shaft is only 5mm longer than the manual. My front shocks look like they've got at least 10-12mm of travel fitted to the car, a longer shaft should in theory just result in more shock travel(when not fitted to the car), as the shock bodies are designed to work with longer damper shafts (such as on the rear of the thundershot). Where the shafts are longer, is the threaded portion longer, or the smooth part?
  8. Nope, they're fine. You can adjust the resistance in them as well by adding or removing the spring bands. The only issue is the price on ebay
  9. I use Tamiya hi torque servo saver kit. I think the part number is 51000.
  10. The last time I had to paint something white it was a 1/32 Colonial Viper, and I used a left over can of Toyota spray paint I'd bought to touch up some bodywork on the car. That came out mostly ok, but even that I had a small run in it.
  11. GF-01 dump truck. Tough 4wd fun. Clod busters are a lot of cash, but they are a lot of fun and last forever, so also good value for money over their lifetime.
  12. It would look better with conventional TXT wheels & tires or even clod wheels. The blacked out windows also add to the 'toy' vibe IMO
  13. It would be good if we can collectively identify the donor parts as well. The diff gears and outdrives look decidedly kyosho, and the red diff housing looks it has come out of a belt drive car and had the drive teeth for the belt removed. as for the white plastic drive gear itself, no idea what that's come out of. As others have said, it's a cool looking and well designed modification. Would have made a nice update for a proper re-release Sand Rover.
  14. Because some things get meaner as they get older It may have something to do with the boomerang having a tranverse mounted motor, whereas the TT-02 is longitudinally mounted. The boomerang transfers the power to rear axle without any torque twist (Just tries to pick the front end off the ground), but because of the layout of the TT-02 transmission, the turning force being put through the centre transmission is trying to twist the differentials around the centre prop. Using very powerful motors this is going to try and lift one front wheel off the ground and burying the rear wheel on the opposing side into the ground as the chassis twists.
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