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MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Painted my tractor Ford blue. Still work in progress, but at least now it's recognisable
  2. When I built the War Rig the front plough was 3mm and 1mm thick steel plate. . But then the plough weighed a kilo (or 1 hornet) on it's own and I had to use 2 old hotshot mono shock springs to hold the front end up as they were the only springs I could find stiff enough
  3. Interesting that it is labelled 'prototype'. You might have the only one, or one of very few...
  4. Got the right foot plate done. Put some slots in it so that I could the receiver in with an elastic band. I had to do this as I cracked the casing when trying to extract it out of a model I'd stuck it in with double sided tape. The elastic band retainer reminds me of holding the receiver battery box in Sand Rover I've also painted the right hand mud guard and the foot plate with gloss white paint. It's not quite pure bright white but it was the best I could find.
  5. Looks fantastic, and like many, many hours of work.
  6. Look suspiciously like a piece of swarf to me
  7. Just based on the amount of grime and the size of the RX I'd say it's a vintage model. The steering servo label looks like it's a 1980s servo. Of course, someone could have put vintage radio gear in a re-re Run it, if the gearbox doesn't make a racket it's probably a vintage one
  8. Got one mud guard done, made from 0.5mm thick aluminium. Very low tech approach. Marked out with a square and a sharp pencil. Scored round the edges and flexed the aluminium sheet to break off the excess (just like cutting out polycarb shells). Then used a vice and a block of aluminium and a small hammer to do the folding. Then drilled the holes by eye with a hand held drill after drilling the vertical plate with the milling machine. Left room to fit in a light bucket at the back of the mud guard.
  9. Easy. Home made skidder: I built it myself and it's very robust. From Tamiya, it would be my re-re hotshot. Just because I had an original one in the 80s which I regretted getting rid of, so promised myself I'd never move on the re-re.
  10. Made 2 clamps that fit around the rear axle. Got horizontal threaded holes that I can screw the mudguards to. These allow me to attach stuff to the rear axle without having to drill holes in the axles. I did this because you can guarantee that if I drill holes in the axles the first attempt will be in the wrong place. With these I can adjust where the mudguards attach without having to damage the axle tubes. I've no plans at the moment to put a 3 point linkage on it, but I could replace the lower parts of the clamps with something beefier that I could attach the lower parts of a 3 point linkage to. Now I can start making mudguards
  11. I gave up selling on EBay when they started insisting that you pay them and not the seller, whilst at the same time demanding bank details (which of course includes a direct debit agreement with them that can take whatever fees they decide). Add to that the stress you get when someone wants something for nothing and it's just not worth the hassle. I just sell hobby stuff here on TC now. If I can't sell it here then it doesn't sell. And I've pretty much given up buying stuff for my hobby now, apart from raw materials such as aluminium bars and sheets to make things with when I can't find anything suitable in the stockpile, or the very occasional part from Ebay such as bolts
  12. More changes over the last couple of the last couple of weeks, but am not really much further forward than the last post. I'd started on thinking about mud guards when I realised that the steering servo was up so high that it would take up a lot of the cab. The rear end looked very blocky and basic so I thought I would refine it a little, whilst making room at the same time to move the servo forward and down, tucking it under the motor. Here I've machined off the top of the rear of the frame, to bring it in line with the top of the servo mount recess. I also machined out the hole for the servo lead, and replicated it on the other plate on the other side. I also drilled and tapped from bolt holes lower down for the top of the rear support plate. Up front I machined down the front of the plate, machined the top off the cross member and removed some excess metal from it, and drilled and tapped holes lower down for the top mount holes. I also machined some excess metal from the side plates by putting oval holes in them. I also took the opportunity while everything was in bits to turn some excess metal from the rear axle mounts, making them look a bit more like the front axles. All this work enabled me to move the servo forward and lower.... This meant making new chassis plates for both sides. One of them was only temporary as it was full of holes, but it was a bit of waste having to chuck the right hand plate. I did try to save it, but messed up when I was cutting it to the new size. Not shown in pictures are the 2 new spacers I had to make to take up the gap between the chassis plates and the rear diff frames, I used the one on the right as one half of the servo mount, and made a small mount to bolt to the right hand chassis plate to hold the other side of the servo in place New chassis plate for the right hand side New servo mount Servo in its new position. So quite a lot of work for not much perceivable progress, but I'm now happy to start work on making the mud guards, and some kind of floor for the cab.
  13. Welcome back. Sounds like you've had a hectic time while you've been away
  14. If that's right, it will just make older cars without the tech in more attractive. I certainly wouldn't want an automatic speed limiter on a car if I cheesed my fingers in the lathe and didn't want to wait 5 hours for an ambulance.
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