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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Finished off these. Well, finished apart from getting some seals 3d printed:
  2. Bear in mind most kits come from the far east, and with many countries closing their borders or restricting what is coming in, new kits may well be scarce once the in country model shops run short of stock.....
  3. So the MK4 walking beams finally came out ok. This was the basic plate. I've now got 9 gears each side, so that's 40 1150 bearings (The axles have 3 each) for the job. Layout of the gears can be clearly seen here. I used lots of smaller gears to keep the ground clearance up and the weight down as much as possible. Almost complete sub assembly. Just needs 3D printed seals to keep dust out of the gears now angling down the end gears allowed me to get an additional 11.63mm of clearance under the diff pumpkin.
  4. You won't have to fight anyone for spray cans, but try finding a mask to stop breathing in the vapours for reasonable money.........
  5. I'd take the 2 weeks and use the time to prepare for the long haul. I don't think the situation is going to do anything but get worse in the next 2 weeks. It might give your employer time to wake up to reality. If you have a pre-existing condition you're better off unemployed than risking getting infected. I'm in self isolation and the situation seems to be going nuts here (UK). Watching BBC news some people are saying it could be over a year before things improve. My folks are self isolating and when they tried to book an on-line delivery of food from a well known supermarket, the earliest delivery slot they could get was in 3 weeks time. I've been trying to shop around for some face masks, and masks I used by for building work DIY etc that used to cost just over a quid each are now selling for £25 each on Ebay. Ebay say they're trying to take down listings that are profiteering but they don't seem to be trying very hard. All the builders merchants that have them listed for sensible money are all sold out. (Clearly entrepreneurial people have cleaned them out and relisted them on Ebay). Also my wife reports you can't get rice, pasta, or bread in the local supermarkets. I know in times of crisis the joke goes 'It's time to stock up on canned food and shotguns', but people here seem to be taking half that advice seriously, judging from the spaces on the supermarket shelves. The people that have a bunker at the bottom of their garden with 2 years supply of food suddenly don't seem so eccentric any more.
  6. You could try fitting 2 servos vertically in the chassis, this would give more flexibility with length of servo horn throw as you would not have 1 'high' and 1 'low'. control rod going out the chassis. Never done this myself, but it was something I considered before going to servos on the axle.
  7. Mine aren't like this, and my 80's Clod never had this problem either. It seems to be a symptom on newer machines. I've bought many tamiyas over the years and have only relatively recently seen this appearing (My Jagdpanther shell was distorted)
  8. Globe liner has a shorter wheelbase than the KH, so can be used in a smaller space. Installation of a driver figure is a bit more tricky in the globe liner though. I've got the Tamiya flatbed trailer and it's very well made, goes well with the globe liner
  9. Yep, I've got some 3mmx50 stainless socket caps bolts that go up from underneath the axle, and then thread into the top of the bracket. You might be waiting a long time for a warm day the way the weather has been recently.
  10. I must admit I do prefer the 4 link system, as the design and number of components is a lot less than with the leafs. I'm thinking the most likely outcome is to double up on the rear shocks, as it's mostly the rear end that suffers from torque twist when pulling off fast. Plus, in all fairness, I've only run it on 3S (with silver cans) at the moment, I think the torque twist will be a lot less severe on 2S.
  11. Spent the morning making a repair to my scratch built forestry machine. I was driving it around on rough ground last weekend and the front wheel came loose. I'd made the poor design decision of using an allen key bolt to hold the wheel on, rather than the conventional stud and nut. Anyway the wheel came loose enough that when it got stuck and I tried to drive out of a hole the drive wheel hub sheared off all 5 drive lugs on the wheel and it went into 2wd.. In the same run I managed to get a stone between the rear butt plate and one of the rear tires and ripped a 1 inch gash in the tire. So to repair the wheel, I drilled holes in the wheel where the studs had been, and added 5 steel studs to the wheel hub: I initially tried loctiting studs into the existing 4mm holes in the hub, but it looks like I'd drilled them to 4.2mm to make the wheels an easy fit, and the studs wouldn't stay in. So I drilled fresh holes in the hub and put M4 threads in them, then made studs with a bit of thread on them, and an outer diameter of 4mm. I also put a stud in the axle and the wheel is now held on with a nyloc nut. I don't think it's going to shear off now (one of the others probably will), but it's one less usable Juggernaut 2 wheel left in the world.
  12. Now gone to the great recycle bin in the sky. I did save the lids for 'posters' for the workshop.
  13. A while ago, I decided I wanted to alter the suspension setup on my Jugg2 runner. The leaf spring setup was not flexible enough and didn't have enough travel. I also wanted to eliminate the 4 wheel steering at the same time. So I started off by removing the stock suspension, and adding a txt-1 front axle guard and 4 link mounts. I had to modify the link mounts slightly so that I could get the 4 link geometry right. Fortunately I already had replaced the stock suspension links with aluminium ones, so it was easy to shorten them to the length required. I also had to remove the front chassis cross brace and replace them with aluminium bars, to allow room for the monster servo when the suspension was at full compression. I also made a rear steering lockout that bolted directly to the axle: I took it out and tried it, and having the 4 link with coil overs on the front and leaf spring rear end gave a good middle ground suspension movement. The leaf springs prevented the worst of the torque effects, and the softer, more pliable suspension at the front gave better movement over obstacles. However after a while I decided to go for coil overs all round. As I couldn't find reasonable priced TXT spares on the internet (£28 just to get the 2 grey suspension mounts / axle guard mounts) I made my own from aluminium: I painted them and fitted them to the axle. I designed them to make it easy it lock the rear steering. I can still adjust toe in / out by using different length spacers between the track rod ends and the suspension mounts. I tried this new system out this afternoon, it has a lot more travel now than before and works really well over rough ground, but is now more susceptible to torque effects, so I might add and extra set of shocks to the rear to stiffen it back up again, I guess it will depend on how I plan to run it. If anyone is interested in doing their own (machining or 3D printing), here's the dimensional diagram.
  14. Assuming the zippy lipo is 2S (7.4V) then is should be no problem. You'll just need to get a low voltage alarm from somewhere like Ebay to plug into the LiPo to warn you when the battery gets low.
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