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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Not really livery, but my favourite out of the box scheme is definitely the original hotshot box art with the '4wd' coat of arms.
  2. You could also look at whether the drive shaft yokes are lined up correctly (Assuming they are telescopic sliders). They should look the same at both ends. However, malformed hubs causing twisting of the bearing sounds like the most likely culprit, unless the bearings are being over-revved and getting hot. It might also be worth getting the sub axles out and rolling on a perfectly flat surface to ensure they are all straight.
  3. You won't need to take the axles out of the tubes, but you'll need to split the gearbox in half to remove the tubes.
  4. Going to be 1/10th if possible. Pricey is still better than scratch building !
  5. Well I didn't want to be outdone by the GF-06 :). That aero engine looks a nice piece of work. What is it ?
  6. Another 6wd truck with the walking beam drive for the rear axle, with hopefully a few improvements over the Scammel I built several years ago. There's a thread in the builds which is now viewable. The leaf springs are temporary until I can get a 4 link system attached. Bodyshell is going to be something off the shelf, with a flatbed on the back. That's the plan at the moment anyway.
  7. Nearly finished one side of the transfer case:
  8. Started designing the transfer case for this thing:
  9. So I've decided to do a 'quick' project. I got hold of 12 rock crawler tires for free after an order for the War Rig tires go messed up a few years ago, so I thought I would do something with them. I spent a few weeks making up a set of dually wheels for 2 axles. After a bit of thinking I thought I would like to end up with another 6wd truck, similar to the 6x6 Scammel model I made a few years ago, but with some improvements. So after completing the wheels, I started a few weeks ago on this: I ordered up some steel gears from China, and attached 12 tooth gears to a pair of modified Mad Bull axles. Then I took quite a bit of time to make these bits on the mill and the lathe Which can then be fitted to a King Hauler axle: and populated with the modified Chinese gears: which I turned the boss off and left a small 0.5mm collar to prevent the gear from rubbing on the aluminium plate. (I still need to order shims for the other side of the gears) Assembled and painted: With double wheels: Monster articulation: and a possible, but not likely end application, adding to my 4x4x4 Lunch box Chassis So, the things I like about this design are: 1. The walking beams on this are angled downwards, effectively making them portal axles as the drive axle is 20mm higher than the wheel axles. Also the walking beams have a 2:1 reduction ratio built in (common drive gear is 12T and final drive gears are 24T). 2. The axles are far enough apart to accommodate tires up to 108mm diameter. The only downside is the weight. Anyone care to guess the weight of the sub assembly ? I'm also getting a friend to 3d print a pair of spacer blocks to fit in between the aluminium plates to keep grit and dirt out of the drive gears. More to follow once I decide how I'm going to proceed, but I know I'm going to use a pair of high lift chassis rails and a Hi Lift front axle, which means I need to build a transfer case with a 2:1 ratio drop for the front axle to ensure all the wheels rotate at the same speed.
  10. Tamiya often re-use old parts in the introduction of new kits, so if they get stuck with a large stock of spares, the parts just get re-used in newer models. It's one of the reasons I've stuck with them for so long is that you can usually get spares for older cars from the newer models.
  11. My War Rig motor is rated at 2380Watts on 6S, and pulls 105amps max. Be interested to know how you work out bhp / ton. I guestimate the war rig weight at around 30-35kg. Top speed last time checked was ~18mph.
  12. The only thing I would add is that generally 'blue bits' are machined rather the plastic parts which are injection moulded, so they have better tolerances and can reduce the amount of slop in components. Whether or not this gives any noticeable performance increase is debatable, but it is a tangible benefit of having machined metal parts vs injection moulded plastic parts.
  13. If you want functional rather than original, I've got an aluminium one I made myself somewhere.
  14. Sounds like the tires might not be well balanced on the wheels. This is what usually causes wheel vibration. I'd double check that the tires fit evenly all the way round. It could also be the tire distorting at high rpm. If you glued them on, did you 'spot weld' them with superglue, or glue the whole seam down. If they've been glued down with spots, the tire can actually balloon into a star shape at high speed where it's trying to pull off the rim and the glue is only holding it on in places.
  15. I've noticed over the last year or 2 that RC stuff has generally got a lot more expensive on Ebay. I put this down partially to the weakness of the pound against the USD when buying stuff from outside the UK, but have also noticed prices rising for 2nd hand vehicles. I think this is generally because there is a limited supply of genuine vintage vehicles, and as is the case with 1:1 vehicles, as more and more basket cases are picked up by collectors and restored, there are fewer and fewer restorable vintage vehicles and so the prices are going to steadily increase. Lets face it, how many people spend a lot of money on getting their vintage model looking and running great, and then thrash it to within an inch of it's life, bodge it back together with home made fixes, and then toss it on Ebay with a starting bid of a £1. So there's bound to be a steady increase in the value of old collectable vehicles as the beaten up models are picked up and restored. Ebay is not the only platform for buying and selling models. I've sold quite a few models on tamiyaclub, and acquired a lot of spares and couple of models, and I've never had a bad trade. I also recently sold 2 1/16 King tigers through word of mouth at the LHS, and got more for them that people were prepared to offer through Ebay, so that was a result using 'pre-internet' selling methods. I've looked at models on Ebay and thought 'You're having a laugh at that price', but then no-ones twisting my arm to buy or bid, and if the rest of the world agrees with me it's not going to sell and the sellers going to drop the price if they want to sell. it. If it sells well then it's worth that to someone and I've just got to compete with that price or be patient and look elsewhere.
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