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MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. If you wanted more oomph in the steering and didn't want to go servo on axle, what about 2 servos mounted on their side inside the bottom of the chassis with servo savers fitted, then bolt the springs up tight. Or maybe 1 high torque servo with a custom made servo saver mounted on the servo.
  2. Ta, lots of looks, but no bites yet. I think people are being off by the 'come and collect it', but I don't fancy putting expensive parcels through the post. Plus I've got no boxes to put the boxes in......
  3. Up for sale is my re-re Wild-One It's seen hardly any use, has fully rubber sealed bearings on the axles, the gearboxes has full roller bearings but I can't remember if their rubber seals or metal. It also has a vintage Futaba FP-S148 servo fitted (which works ). The only mod I've made from stock was to make a thin plug from Delrin on the lathe to seal up the large round hole in the bottom of the chassis. It comes with a box in excellent condition, a manual and few left overs from the build. £140, buyer collects from Salisbury area in Wiltshire. I also a have FAV for sale in this forum if you want the pair Unmarked roof. Vintage servo Chassis plug Driver Panel. Unpainted head Box with inserts Manual Small amount of scratching on the underside: Bad Points Couple of cracks in the shell where the roll cage meets the chassis Paint spread a bit from the the steering wheel when I sprayed the black on.
  4. So I've dabbled with this idea. Running a DF-02 with a big 3 cell LiPo, 4000Kv motor, and TT-01 speed gears, the gears were rotating so fast they were throwing all the grease off, and then I'm doing 50mph on dry gears.... (I actually melted the plastic washer that clips over the main spur gear doing this. So, as the gearbox is split horizontally, I used 3 in 1 to put a small sump of oil in the front and rear diff housings. After a run, the gears at least still had oil on them. I'd didn't attempt to seal the drive cups, just kept the car more or less horizontal and then checked the oil after each run (You can see it's leaked out after a run). Th only other machine I tried it on was my TXT-1, which has a natural sump moulded into the axle. To seal the area, I just put thick axle grease outboard of the inner axle bearings (That support the diff). This provided a good seal so the oil would not wash through the bearings, and with the slow rotational speed of the axles it didn't blow the thick grease everywhere. Using a bit of silicone sealant on the top cover stopped nearly all the leaks coming out. However, sealing up gearboxes is a pain in the neck every time you want to do maintenance, so I went back to using grease instead. So in summary, the only time I'd use oil now, was if something was rotating so quickly the grease won't stay on the gears. But don't let that stop you from trying .... PS Thinking back I did oil my sand rover gears. I think that was because that was what my Dad had available, the only upside I can think of with open gears is that grit is less likely to stick oil than grease, but in hindsight, the best option with the 380 would have been to run it with no grease at all.
  5. Chopped up a chinese light bar, then carefully drilled and tapped the bar for 2mm screws and attached. Painted the rear lenses with Humbrol clear red. Got an in-line resistor and run the LEDs off the RX lead coming out of the ESC
  6. No, I always grease the gears with tamiya ceramic grease. I'd never run one of their pot metal diffs without putting plenty of grease in there, or trucks like TXT-1 that have pot metal straight gears. But then I don't have many vehicles that aren't on 'Big Power'. When I was running my DF-02 trying to do speed runs, the gears rotated so quickly that after a run all the grease would be in the gear casing, and the gears were dry, so I resorted to using a sump of light oil in there instead of grease. For me, I see no reason not to put a bit of grease on, even to the point of adding grease where roller bearings are running on steel shafts. That way if any moisture gets at it, you won't get bearings rusted onto the shafts they run on. This might not be running through puddles, simply storing the car somewhere cold enough to get condensation forming on the metal in the winter.
  7. Let me know if you come across any more bits you need. I have unwanted parts from my Jugg rebuild now I have partial 4 links on it. I also have some new / unused spares. I may be able to help you out if you find other extinct parts.
  8. if you're children can destroy Traxxas models, the tamiya's will get vaporised...........
  9. I believe the F350 High lift springs have the same profile. The leafs are held together with a 2mm bolt rather than a rivet, so you might have to make some mods to fit them, but they are at least still available. And you can adjust the stiffness of the springs by adding / removing links Here's some info I posted for another member comparing hi lift / Jugg / king hauler springs, the rear spring in the photo below is a slightly used Hi-Lift spring, the middle one a Jugg2, and the front a king hauler spring. Comparison between all three springs: Measurements from springs. I did a bit of a rebuild on my Jugg recently, and found that some of the springs had sagged with age, and were a slightly different shape to some new ones (I have 2 unused springs left). Here's my rebuild thread. Madinventor Juggernaut 2 rebuild - Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers - Tamiyaclub.com
  10. That's very impressive. The price is eye watering but I think's its a better finished product than anything tamiya have released RC wise in a very long time. Just shows what can be achieved if manufacturers think beyond traditional markets. I'm still waiting for some to produce a 'scale' 1/10 4wd tractor that can be used as a trail runner.
  11. Selling my FAV that I used in the War Rig Vids. Rolling chassis, fitted with stock silver can 540. Full set of roller bearings. No steering servo, ESC, or receiver. Comes with Box, manual, and a few spares including an unused decal kit (I painted on the camo). I have decided to keep the TLT-1 rear wheels for spares for one of my other vehicles, so the rear wheels and tires are mint unused items. Few custom touches including LED front and rear lights powered from ESC RX plug. £160. Buyer collects from Salisbury area, Wiltshire. Working Lights: I machined off the old MSC mounting point on the chassis and glued a piece of plastic into the hole. I also made an aluminium plug for the other hole to keep muck and dust from entering the chassis. The wiring seen in the pic below is for the LED lights: which means you can install the electrics low down in the chassis (Electrics not included in sale): Other mods are: 1. Slot in chassis to allow ESC power leads to pass into the battery bay so I could use a 3S LiPo. I also replaced the stock motor wires with longer good quality silicone wires to ease fitting an ESC under the bonnet. 2.Removed part of the driver figure plate so I could fit in a passenger. This is a Wild Willy figure with the head from the 4x4 driver figure kit. I also added a Nitrous bottle (Mad Max black) and a stainless steel mesh over the battery box to reduce the profile of the battery box. The mesh has been attached with a thin bead of silicone as is easy to remove with a screwdriver if access to the battery box is required for maintenance: 3. Added a steel plate underguard that wraps up the back of the vehicle to prevent damage to the rear cage. 4. All the wheels have had the silver screws replaced with black socket cap bolts. These are easier to tighten and I think look more realistic that the crosshead screws. 5. There's a steel mesh fitted to the roof and rear of the roll cage (Can be seen in the pics above) Also included are a box in excellent condition: and left over parts including the manual, decal sheet, and a few spare bits and pieces.
  12. When I a teenager I drove one of these in the summer holidays dragging trees off hills: Now life's gone downhill and I just drive a PC..........
  13. I have tried selling tanks in recent years. I sold 2 vintage king tigers for £250 for the pair. These had both been modified to replace the single 540 motor and the clutches with twin 540 motors, one driving each track. I put a sniffer out for selling a Jagdpanther recently (which are now about £700 new) and my best offer was about £200 - £250. My experience is that the bottom has dropped out of the market. You can readily sell the tanks, but people are only interested in bargains, IMO, you've got no chance of getting any where what you've put into it. I did see a tank matching your description on Ebay and thought it was very well finished, my suggestion would be that the price is too steep.
  14. I've just checked my wild one re-re and I've got the reinforced wheels. The diameter of the adapter is 17.91mm where it fits inside the wheel, so that should give you some idea of how much plastic you would need to remove from yours. If it was me I wouldn't shave down the wheels. It will be difficult to get them flush, so they probably won't sit flat against the adapter, plus it's always well fiddly trying to inside a wheel.
  15. Wouldn't it be easier to reduce the diameter of the drive hub than sand down the wheel ?
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