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MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Easiest option is to lower or raise the suspension and use a different hole... I've had similar problems before and clamped it in the vice on the milling machine and drilled it out with a milling bit. A drill bit will bend and wander and these things never shear off flat. Line it up with a 3mm rod and then drill it out with a 2.5mm milling cutter. This is another good reason to tap all your holes in plastic with an M3 tap. When the end shears off the remaining stud is usually quite loose and can be persuaded to undo. Your best bet is to clamp it in a vice, and use a sharp piece of steel rod to centre punch the brass stud, then drill it out with a 2mm drill bit. Get a piece of 2mm steel (e.g. old drill bit) and loctite it in the hole in the brass. then try and undo it with a good pair of pliers.
  2. Well lets see....... in the 80s a brand new Grasshopper, could have bought a 2nd hand rough rider for the same price. Then got a hotshot, loved it, sold it and always regretted it. Regretted buying the hornet after that, mainly because I missed the hotshot, and the hornet was rubbish by comparison Then a 2nd hand frog, worn out rubbish. Thundershot, grip rolled really badly, and geared too high. (mostly in hindsight my poor judgement in the handling setup) Mud Blaster, bodyshell disintegrated during use, quickly followed by the gearbox. Tl-01 Porsche - Just bought it because it was cheap, but far inferior to my tt-01 Wild Willy 2 (x2) Rolled too much and should have been 4wd (Got a GF-01 years later and really liked that) G6-01 - Konghead - Built it and ran it twice, just not that fun to drive, doesn't inspire me to stick a battery in it and run it. The GF-01 is more entertaining to drive. Cars I've really liked: 1. Hotshot - Just a classic, and the re-re is very robust and reliable. 2. Clod Buster - Just runs and runs, year in, year out, with plain old silver cans it's pretty much indestructible 3.TXT-1 Great design, but put more power in it and it's easy to damage the suspension and axle guard frames. 4. GF-01 Dump truck - Another really reliable car that handles well and is a robust design. 5. Mad Bull - Great cheap car that will absorb a huge power upgrade. 6. Fast attack vehicle and Wild One - Just like the classic design, and they're fun to drive, especially on 3S silver cans. 7. Kyosho Ultima Pro - Just a really well designed 2wd car.
  3. The first 2 gears are chromed brass. I know because my first TXT's chrome flaked off the bevel gears, and I drilled the splines out of another. Definitely brass. The diff gear and the gear it meshes (MR16) are the usual tamiya cheese / pot metal. I also have some information to pass on with respect to the diff gear and the MR16 drive gear. I took one of my axles apart and got busy with the calipers. Distance between the diff axle and MR16 shaft = 26.5mm centre to centre (32mm edge to edge when measured with a 6mm and 5mm shaft in situ) MR16 gear = 16 teeth Diff gear = 28 teeth Module of gears = 26.5 / (28+16)/2 =1.2045 It's actually module 1.2, which gives a theoretical distance between the gears of 26.4mm. The extra 0.1 I measured is to provide a small degree of clearance between the gears (I use 0.1mm gap in all the gearboxes I've made when using module 1.0 and module 0.8 gears) That's not very helpful as module 1.2 is not an industry standard size, and there is no D.P. equivalent either. Can't buy module 1.2 gears anywhere in the world on EBay. Thanks Tamiya........ It's not all bad news however, as, if you take mod 0.8 (Tamiya standard size gear teeth for most buggies) 33 * 0.8 = 26.4. Hey presto, a match. I wonder if they originally designed the axle for 0.8 gears and then found they shredded themselves with pot metal or plastic. So as long as the number of gear teeth adds up to 66 (33*2), it's possible to use mod 0.8 gears as replacements (I'm thinking custom fits for one way rollers, or for the rear end, one long shaft going all the way through the axle from end to end (Rear steering lockout and diff lock). To get the gear ratio the same as the existing axle: existing axle = 16/28 = 0.571 New axle = 24 / 42 = 0.571 Funny how you can get an exact match in module 0.8. Why they didn't use module 1.25, which was an industry standard and would have only made the gears 1mm further apart? I guess they'd already tooled up the axle dies before thinking 'Ahh, this might a problem using mod 0.8'
  4. I put top force UJs in my original boomerang / super sabre in the front without any issues, but they do not work in the re-re hotshot, even with boomerang uprights. Same with after market DF-02 shafts. Work fine in the original boomerang, but they bind in the re-re hotshot. I think the re-re gearbox spaces the drive cups slightly further apart than the original gearbox casings, plus of course the re-re hotshot drive cups may well be different from the hardened thundershot drive cups I was using with the top force UJs.
  5. Wasn't the rear mounted motor used to help prevent all the weight coming off the back wheels during braking ? Is it the case that modern 2wd racers use mid mounting to take advantage of the very light LiPos that can be used now ?
  6. Do not underestimate the power of the 540 to lift stuff. The blade on my skidder can lift the front end off the ground and the model weighs nearly 10Kg. That's fitted with a MFA unit with a reduction box, can't remember the ratio now, I've got a felling it's about 50:1. OK, it's running on 3S, but from memory it still does the job with 2S.
  7. Good question, haven't got a clue myself not having owned either, but interested to see what others say. Given that the late 80s racing was dominated by the CAT xls and the mid, I'd guess the Mid would blow the rear motor Optima out of the water, but that's just a guess. The mid is certainly a more efficient design, and gets my vote as the Carlsberg of cars. Best design ever ? 'Probably'
  8. I got my terra scorcher from Fusion Hobbies at the start of the year, with my TC subscriber discount I got it for a shade under £160, which I thought was very reasonable for what it is.
  9. My existing 'old' thundershot is quiet considering it has a 4000KV brushless in it running on LiPos. I probably won't put anything as mad as that in the terra scorcher, but it's going to need something with more beans than a silver can. I've got after market CVDs in the front and top force in the back, with no binding issues. I'm actually starting to wonder why I bought the Terra Scorcher now.............
  10. I must admit I'm not looking forward to breaking the seals on my re-re terra scorcher after what I've been reading here. I've got some vintage gears and diff units, and I have good engineering grade steel to make replacement idler shafts with. Bit of a worry about the motor plate though, as I don't have a vintage replacement. I have one in my thundershot, so could use that as a pattern to make a replacement if necessary, but that's a lot of work for something that should work out of the box. If the quality keeps going down like this then very soon people who want to run the cards will be looking for vintage models in preference to the re-release models.
  11. Just to back up what you've said here, from my memory (which is not infallible by a long chalk), I bought a vanquish when they were originally released back in the previous century (My memory is that bad I can't remember what year...), but I do remember paying £135 for it. A couple of years previously I'd bought a thundershot, which I remember being about £90. The Terra scorcher was priced somewhere between the 2. I have a memory of the terra scorcher being about £110, but lets say it was £100. Vanquish back then cost about 35% more than a terra scorcher. So 135% of todays price (£180) is £243, this is way off the RRP of £389, or even Fusions price of £339. If anyone's got an advert from the 20th Century with both cars listed in the same Ad, that would give a more accurate comparison So I'm choosing my words very carefully here so as not re-inflame the argument, when both the cars were originally produced, new moulds would have been made for the unique parts. Moulds were already in place for the non unique parts (The same situation as today), so the percentage price differential then gives a good indication of the relative production cost of the model, factoring in a reasonable profit margin. The available information would therefore indicate that a larger profit margin has been attached to the VQS. The only way I see this assumption not being correct is if there were old moulds that were used to re-release the Terra scorcher, but none were available for the VQS. As @mud4fun has said, the original vanquish sold in far fewer numbers than the terra scorcher, so the moulds would not have been worn out. The only other wild conjecture I can add, is that Tamiya will only have a fixed amount of storage space, and disposed of the moulds for the vanquish thinking they would never be used again. If you look at the size and range of the plastic products tamiya produces now, and everything they've made since the 1980s, I can't see it being commercially viable to pay for the storage to keep all the moulds. Who would have made the decision, 'Actually, it's worth paying for the storage space to keep all these moulds for these uncompetetive RC cars once the production run is complete, because in 30 years all the kids we sold cars to will be middle aged with more money than sense, and we can sell them back to them all over again, along with all the other cars they wanted but couldn't afford'. No-ones crystal ball is that good. If it was the MOD wouldn't have used Spitfires for target practice on the gunnery ranges when the jet age appeared.
  12. There's always my full set if no-one has a pair of just the back wheels
  13. The video link @SupraChrgd82 was very interesting. I was quite surprised at the amount of manual handling going on. It shows that it's not just about mouldings when reproducing a model. Although I did notice that most of the stuff they were working on was pre-painted / pre-assembled models.
  14. I'd buy the corvette. If there is ever a choice in life between buying a corvette, and not buying a corvette, you should always buy the corvette
  15. Well folks, the alternative is to buy a lathe, a milling machine, and a 3D printer, and make your own (That will leave a smoking hole where your bank account used to be before you even start). When it takes you 3-4 years to build something from scratch you'll appreciate just being able to open a box and have all the bits there waiting for you.
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