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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Absolutely. I spent 3 years building this from scratch so it's extremely rare and if I want spares I need to make them myself. The last time I ran it (nearly 2 years ago) I was going full throttle down a dirt road when I ran over my fast attack vehicle a friend was driving, which caused the truck to roll over. So now I've got quite a few repairs to carry out on it before I can run it again. But the time out was fun, my son enjoyed it enormously, and when I run it again I'll probably end up damaging something else. But the dents and scratches are part of it's history now, my son points at them and says 'I remember when rolled it and put that dent in it'. Plus I wouldn't have spent 3 years building it if wasn't ever going to run it. Re, the brushed vs brushless argument, I've got a 6S brushless boat motor in this, rated at 2400 Watts, which gives me a top speed of 18mph (About as quick as a mildly hopped up buggy). But this thing weighs about 30Kg, so I couldn't do it with brushed motors. I'd need 40 silver cans to generate the equivalent power output. That's not to say there's anything wrong with brushed motors. I sometimes miss the old 3 step speedo's. You don't need a programming card to get them to work....
  2. I don't think you need to put the labels 'Shelf Queen' and 'Runner' on them.
  3. No offence taken, It's just I already have a thundershot with TS spec suspension and a brushless motor. I like the old school stuff. Also, if I build it I've got nowhere to keep it (My War Rig takes up the space of 5 clod busters on its own), so I would have to sell some other stuff to make room. But to be honest I haven't even driven one of my RCs on months. Just a general lack of enthusiasm combined with a lot of other things on in my non RC world. It does seems though that Tamiya seem incapable of incorporating improvements into model lines to evolve them. A good example would be the Clod Buster. The Super Clod just keeps on selling, but could be easily improved with the addition of the longer TXT-1 stub axles , drive hubs, and wheels. They are parts that are already in the parts bin, they wouldn't even have to design any new components, and they know the bits are better the standard Clod offering or they would not have put them on the TXT in the first place. It would be so easy to discontinue the super clod and release a new model with these minor improvements (The Super Duper Clod Buster)! But no, just keep churning out the same old thing.. I was looking at the Traxxas TRX-4 truck a few months ago. Its got a 2 speed box, decent 4 link suspension, portal axles, selectable diff locks, and for what you get in terms of features, it's not that expensive. Tamiya haven't got anything that comes even close to it. If was going to buy another RC now the likelihood would be that it would be one of those or a Kyosho re-release. But I'm getting to the point with RCs where I've pretty much tried all forms of stuff that Tamiya make, and I'm just not seeing anything new appearing that's taking my interest, and it's been like that for a few years now. I've also burned several years of my life scratch building some fairly ambitious RCs, and I just don't want on major new builds now. It's pointless spending 3 years building a model, and then only running 3 or 4 times in the next 3 years. Likewise I don't see the point of owning lots of RCs that are stashed in cupboards that you can't even look at, if they never get dragged out to be used.
  4. This is exactly how 'fast fashion' operates. Release stuff and only make it available for a very short time before moving on to the next thing. Creates a mentality of having to rush out and buy something for fear of 'missing out'. I'm immune, the last thing I bought was a Terra Scorcher last February and I still haven't found the enthusiasm to start building it. I'm not buying any more kits until I can get some spare axle input drive shafts for my TXT-1 (grrr)
  5. The other thing to bear in mind is the quality of the housing you're putting the bearings in. Something like a hotshot front upright has 2 bearings very close together, so if you use close tolerance bearings, the bearing housings must be very well aligned or the shaft won't go through the bearings, or will be trying to twist the inner part of the bearing in relation to the out. So sometimes a bit of slop is necessary to allow for the imperfections in the manufacture of the bearing housings
  6. If you want a technical explanation what you've bought is a one way roller bearing for your centre drive shaft. When a 4wd car corners, due to the geometries of the paths the wheels follow, the front wheels want to turn faster than the rear wheels. However, at least one of them can't as they are mechanically linked to the rear wheels via the transmission (The front diff has to rotate at the same speed as the rear diff). The one way bearing allows the front diff, and therefore the front wheels, to turn faster than the rears, improving the cornering by reducing understeer. The downside is that you will only get 2wd (rear) when you reverse. In my view, it's a worse technical solution than fitting a one way unit to replace the front differential. This is because the front diff will still allow loss of tractive force on the front end if one wheel comes off the ground. On other hand, fitting a one way unit instead of the front diff always supplies power to the remaining front wheel on the ground, should one front wheel lose traction. I had one fitted in my DF-02, and when cornering on tarmac the inner front wheel would lift off the ground, but the car still cornered well as the outer front wheel was still being driven.
  7. Why not look at the Kyosho Ultima ? Then he'd have a chance of keeping up with, or beating the RC10
  8. That looks like a lot of fun. Would have better with 2 seat though ....
  9. The bearings are dry. WD40 is not actually a lubricant, it will provide lubrication for a short while, but it's mainly used for unseizing rusty things. I'd suggest take out the motor, stand it upright, and put a couple of drops of light oil where the bush meets the motor shaft, and leave overnight to soak in, then turn the motor and repeat with the other end.
  10. lot 394 is a tamiya falcon (2wd) and a tamiya terra scorcher (4wd). Hope you do well from the auction.
  11. I love this. You've already done all the hard work for them. All they've got to do is copy it and stick your name on the box, or on a sticker on the shell somewhere. But then the corporate pride kicks in and they can't bring themselves to use an 'outside the company' idea
  12. Don't worry, the Brits are already testing a solution 'Hovering ship' photographed off Cornish coast by walker - BBC News I guess your shipments will depend upon whether they're coming via air freight or boat. If it's boat then it's going to delay it, but I can't imagine the Egyptian authorities will leave it stuck there for long, it will be costing them too much in revenue from the canal. Their next plan will probably be to offload the cargo to refloat it.
  13. If it was me I'd go with the 4000mah battery, but that just my personal preference not knowing what each one costs. The 4000mah gives a slightly better discharge rate, so if you're pulling 60A with the ESC and motor you're that little bit further away from the packs' max discharge rate.
  14. Like the old batteries, the bigger the capacity, the longer the battery will last, so 4000 will last longer, but I suspect will also be slightly heavier. You also need to look at the C rating (Discharge current). The C rating is the multiple of the capacity at which the battery will discharge. So, for example, a 4000mAh pack with a 30c discharge rate can supply a constant current of 120amps. These are what I use for my 3 cell packs and they have quite a low C rating, but they're overkill in most situations, as most moderately good brushed ESCs have a max 60amp discharge rate. I usually found that I crashed the car or terminated the transmission before the battery went flat using these (But that was with high rpm brushless systems). The core RC pack I have is 4000mah and I usually get bored before it goes flat, but then I'm just messing about in the garden and not racing hard. Personally myself I would go for the Core pack, it's better to have the capacity and not use it than buy the lower capacity one and wish you'd spent a bit more.
  15. No offence to the model shop but they're wrong. LiPo are capable of supplying much more discharge current than a Nimh battery, which means you will accelerate a lot harder from a standing start with a LiPo. They also hold their voltage longer, which means it takes a longer for the cars top speed to drop off once you're running. They have a slightly higher nominal voltage (7.4 vs 7.2). They are also lighter than Nimh, so unless the model shop want to disprove Isaac Newtons second law of motion that force = mass x acceleration, even having a lighter battery is going to see an improvement in acceleration. I also noticed a distinct improvement in my cars brushed motor performance going from NiMh to Lipo. I also noticed with my brushless motors that they got a loss worse if I tried using NiMh instead of Lipos. A 2S lipo is the only sensible replacement for your 7.2V Nimh cells. 3 cell won't fit unless you want to start hacking the chassis. For 2S Lipo, you will need to be careful that you buy a pack shaped like the old Nimh cells as the thundershot has a battery hole shaped around that cross section. The only one I know of is made by core rc. With regards to chargers this is an example of what to look for Overlander RC6-VSR 80watt 7A Output AC/DC LiPo Balance Charger 0003129 (modelsport.co.uk) I've not used it, the one I have which is great, is no longer manufactured. What you're looking for is a multi chemistry balance charger. This will allow you to charge LiPo and Nimh with the one charger. A balance charger is essential for Lipo to safely charge them. When I charge mine, I always use a charge rate thats around 50% of the capacity rating (So for a 4mah battery I would charge at no more than 2 amps) and then the cells don't get hot whilst charging.
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