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MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. I suspect the 2 plugs are just to provide compatability with 2 different receivers or light units. Can't help with the other query sorry.
  2. If nobody else can help, and someone can come up with the dimensions, I can make you one on the lathe out of aluminium no problem. Cue the A- Team music
  3. When I was about 17, I went to kit car show in London. One of the kit manufacturers had a Cobra Replica with a 302cu (5litre) V8 in it. very nice, and very expensive. Just behind the gearstick on the central tunnel was a little plaque with the following inscribed on it - "The only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys", the inference being that we never really grow out of enjoying toys, they just get more expensive as we get older.
  4. That looks like a lot of fun. I particularly like the sound system.
  5. The sand rover was my very first proper RC model, so that is a trip down memory lane. The MSC is basically a big resistor, the neutral position is with the wiper in the middle, full travel to one side is full forward, and full travel to the other side is full reverse. It's a truly proportional speedo rather than the later 3 step MSCs, but they did have a tendency to burn out, hence the move in later models to the 3 step speed controllers.
  6. Interesting. When I've sold stuff for Cash on collection previously, I've only been charged the basic selling fee, no paypal fees. Just another reason not to go back to them. I'm happy selling the tamiya stuff on here, and I don't really sell anything else on EBay.
  7. I suppose the question is, why did you buy it ? Was it as an investment, or because you just liked it ? If it was as investment, then probably don't paint it and decal it. If you bought it as a nice shelf queen to look at, I'd paint and decal it box art and enjoy it as an ornament and not worry about the value. (I assume you didn't get it to use as a runner ) What you've got there has got to be worth at least £300 of anybody's money, could well be worth more. The battery is probably dead, but I would disconnect it as the speed controller is not in the neutral position............. Edit: Sorry, seen you've already done that, was just looking at the last picture.
  8. Likewise. I've not had any notifications from Ebay about this (although I do tend to delete all the emails I get from Ebay anyway as they send me so many marketing emails), but it sounds horrendous and I wouldn't entertain selling anything through Ebay myself if that's how they're going to play it.
  9. I think I've got some. They're not new but very reasonably priced. Looks like I've 2 rears and 4 fronts. Both the rears go the same way. Don't know if they're lefts or rights. Will happily sell the 2 rears separately from the fronts. Are they what you're looking for ?
  10. You don't need them, but these make a nice add on. They're universal jointed replacements for the kit standard dogbone prop shafts. Not only do they look more scale realistic, but they cut down on the transmission rattle /noise when driving. Universal Drive Shaft 92mm - 128mm For Tamiya 1/14 Scania R620 Tractor Trucks | eBay Edit: This particular drive shaft may not be the right length for your truck, but the seller usually has a selection of lengths to suit most tamiya 1/14 trucks.
  11. Just had a quick look at Ebay, and yes, £30 seems about right. I'd try and get new re-re tires rather than original vintage ones, my experience of buying a set of vintage pin spikes was that they cracked and split to the point of having to throw them away within 12 months of putting them on wheels. Can't help with the letter pen sorry.
  12. The only problem that I can see with this for the TXT is that the steel shroud is also there to stop the brass that has the slot in it spreading or breaking off under load. Once you've cut through the steel outer shroud, it takes all the strength out of it. As you said, fine for the CC-01, but I'd be dubious about it's longevity in a TXT-1, particularly going to the rear axle. For the CC-01, it's a very neat solution using stock parts if you have limited metalworking facilities.
  13. I've not raced TXT's either, but have run one for a long time. If you're going racing I would stick with the stock wheels. They have larger drive lugs than the clod wheels and are more robust if you're putting lots of power in. The stock axle guard frames are brittle and are spares are like unicorn horn now. Try and obtain some aftermarket aluminium ones if you can. I use traxxas drive shafts as well. Without wishing to contradict @Mad Ax (Perhaps you're thinking about Juggernaut 2 shafts?), the stock TXT axle input shafts come with a pin hole drilled through them, as does the gearbox output shaft (I've been searching for input shafts to replace my Juggernaut 2 5mm shafts). The Tamiya stock drive shafts are held on with 2 5mm grub screws in each end. (The old Juggernaut / Juggernaut 2 axle input shafts were 5mm and had no holes.). So the good news is that Traxxas REVO shafts will bolt straight to the axle input shaft, and in theory would bolt to gearbox outdrive as well, but the outdrive is too short, so you can either bodge the drive shaft on, or make a new bottom shaft. I would think very carefully before going to the effort of modifying tamiya shafts to support a longer wheelbase, they're made from really soft brass, including one of the pins that make up the UJ, and it all wears really badly once it starts to wear. Traxxas shafts are cheaper and better than the TXT-1 shafts. If you're tamiya shafts are new, I'd sell them and use the cash to get some traxxas drive shafts (Sorry Tamiya ) This is a REVO shaft fitted to the stock gearbox output shaft, with good luck and a bit of superglue holding the pin in. I later made a new bottom shaft that was longer to accommodate stock traxxas shaft end that has a threaded pin, which had a machined steel hex that was loctited to the shaft, and then drilled and pinned for good measure. If you want to move further away from stock I made my own gearbox casing (using stock gears) to optimise the layout for one motor to lower the CoG as much as possible without having the motor below the output shafts. If nothing else, the underguard is very worthwhile.
  14. I still have my original Clod Buster box from 1988 .....
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