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About MadInventor

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    Wiltshire, UK

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  1. Like when I found out that gearing my War Rig to do 30mph was probably a mistake, especially as the 2400Watt 6S brushless boat motor would pull that speed without a problem. Very, very twitchy on the steering made it terrifying to drive at that speed with 2 trailers behind it, I particularly did not want a high speed roll over with trailers made with 1 off 3d printed parts. I didn't roll it, but then managed to twice at 18mph (New top speed after I rebuilt the transfer case with additional gears to slow it up). Still, it's all fun
  2. Juggernaut / juggernaut 2 rear steering lockout. Mounts at the same location as the rear steering pivot so you can use your existing track rod. Would also work for a TXT-2 if you wanted to fit a smaller axle guard and had to lose the mounting for the steering lockout in the base of the axle guard, but you'd probably need to make your own length track rod
  3. The devil on my shoulder says I should mention that 1/8 brushless motors have the same 25mm hole pattern as 540s, and have longer 5mm motor shafts. The basic problem with trying to extend a motor shaft is that unless it fits absolutely perfectly and is perfectly straight, you will introduce eccentricity and wobble in the pinion, which will make it noisier and probably introduce tight spots and undue gear wear. (This is true even of a long pinion. @ACCEL has very good points about using brass tube and loctite 638 (I use this for 'welding' gears onto shafts, and he's right, you will never get a failure, I put the torque from a 2400 Watt turnigy brushless boat motor the size of a coffee cup running 6S through my War Rig gearbox, and it's fine), however, I suspect the brass tube would fail before the loctite when using it in a buggy (Transmission doesn't suffer the same shock loading in a boat that a buggy does). If you're just running a silver can I would look around at chinese 550 motors. They're a bit longer due to having an internal fan so they can take 12V, but some may have longer motor shafts as well. If you want to test the rest of the transmission have a look at turnigy / hobbwing 1/8 2000KV motors. Loads of grunt and never get hot on 2S
  4. Just to add my 2 cents: When I was 10~11, I went from a sand rover to a grasshopper, which I built myself. I had it a while but found it slow and the rear suspension was a joke (Even to my 10 year old eyes). So I saved and bought a hotshot when they came out, which again I built myself, so I wouldn't discount any Tamiya on the grounds of 'It will be too difficult to build'. Since then I've had a hornet, Midnight Pumpkin, 3 madbulls (Still got one now which I run on 3S), and a GF-01 dump truck, and have just finished building a comical hornet. If I had to go with a pick out of any of these it would be a toss up between the Mad Bull and a GF-01. Hornet and Pumpkin have awful handling, the suspension, that Mad Bull drives the best out of the lot, but the GF-01 is good as it is 4wd and has great suspension. I haven't been that impressed with the build of the comical hornet. The bodyshell is awkward to get on and off with the flags on the ends of the aerial tubes, the on / off switch is in a really awkward place, and the steering geometry looks like an afterthought. I've haven't had a chance to drive it yet as the TBLE-02 speedo refuses to work with my ACOMS servo (Nice one Tamiya, that will be getting replaced with a Hobbywing 1060 first chance I get). One other thing to consider it battery compartments. If you're spending money on startup kit there's no point in starting with NimH, might as well be LiPo from the outset, so you'll need a chassis that ideally will take a square lipo pack (I know you can get lipos shaped like nimh packs but they are expensive). The GF-01 can accommodate square packs (As can the G6-01), the mad bull needs a shaped pack, and I think I managed to get a square LiPo into the pumpkin although it was a long time ago I used it. On balance out of that lot the GF-01 seems like the best all rounder. When I was trying to teach my lad to drive RC I bought him a second hand clod buster. The bodyshell was a bit rough on it, but I picked it for £65, for parts or not working. Turned out the gearboxes were tight because someone had put non Tamiya circlips on the drive shafts, £8 on a bag of bits and it ran just fine. He loved the size of it and I could set to run in parallel or series mode, we can run it on the beach without getting too much sand over it, and he still enjoys using it years after I bought it. The Clod is definitely robust, low maintenance, and fun. Bottom line is though, I'd just ask your nephew what he likes the look of. Bring up fusion hobbies or Modelsport on the browser and see what grabs his attention.
  5. I would give all the diff bevel gears a very thorough visual inspection. These are what I would call 'pot metal' (they're not steel) and the gears are cast and not machined, so there can be 'flash' on them, round the edges or on the gear teeth. This can potentially make the diff tight (same goes the 3 tiny gears that fit inside the main diff housing gear). As others have pointed out that the diff gets smoother over time, it's probably this soft pot metal wearing away where it's binding. My hotshot (A re-re I bought in 2007) has a rear diff that is tighter than the front diff, but the rear diff can still be turned easily (Although it does not freewheel when one wheel is spun). I suspect that the front gearbox housing is slightly wider than the rear on all the cars. You can always swap the front and rear diff gears over and see if the rear diff spins freely in the front. If it does and the front diff is tight in the rear gearbox then it might be a malformed gearbox casing. You could also look at the circlips and the splined ends of the drive cups. If you have a file you could try filing a bit off the end of the splined end of MR15, and a bit of material off the back of MR10, this would provide slightly more width clearance for the diff and would loosen it off, but this would be a last resort as obviously filing material off is a one way trip
  6. Hotshot to Hotshot II Suspension conversion kit. This is everything you need to convert a hotshot rear end to Hotshot II spec, apart from the shocks. not shown in the pics are 2 smmx12screws required to attach the underguard which I will also include. Optional: I also have 2 tamiya YELLOW cva short shock units. Optional : I have the front monoshock attachments for the hotshot II as well (Still on a boomerang / super sabre sprue) If you want them, I will photograph them and add the pics here or PM them as required, and negotiate price accordingly. My version of the D7 part to attach the HSII underguard to the gearbox. Pretty much impossible to find the original part. I didn't have any screw pins of the right length so cut off 2 long ones and round the ends. Perfectly usable for a runner. A lot of the rear suspension arms get the threads pulled out where the lower shock mount is, so I drilled them through with a 2.5mm drill (the original hole size) and tapped the holes for a machine thread. Included are the brass sleeves needed for the lower shock mount and 2 18mm socket cap screws to maximise the amount of thread in the plastic that is used. The suspension arms are re-release (new plastic) and have no cracks. Rear uprights are super sabre items. Home fabricated rear shock tower, with brass sleeves for the top shock mounts. Blue boomerang part to replace Hotshot II D4 part. I can paint matt black before sending if requested. genuine HS II underguard. As you can see from the photos it's been used and run, but there are no splits / cracks in it and it's perfectly usable. Also an alloy version of the rear gearbox brace, I also have boomerang B4 part on a sprue if you prefer originality over 'bling'
  7. I think they just wanted the clearance for suspension travel. The general layout and height of the model may have been determined at design time before the steering was finalised. My sons clod has dual steering servos fitted to the axles in the axle guards, and vintage CVA long shocks fitted all round to replace the pogo sticks. it still has the original body and mounts, and with the suspension at full depression the tires miss the shell at the corner of the wheel arches by about 5mm. To me this seems like most likely scenario, that a prototype was built, possibly without 4 wheel steering, or a different system that was no good, and then when the current 4ws was fitted they had to fit the pogo sticks with the travel limiting rubbers.
  8. If they don't last go with Traxxas revo shafts. I've run them on 4S with a 1/8 brushless fitted in my TXT-1 and didn't manage to break them.
  9. I've replaced all the Tamiya battery connectors with Deans connectors, so I just the wires to the length required.
  10. Found some more avante 2011 re-re (vanquish) lightweight wheels I'd forgotten about hiding in a cupboard behind the War Rig. These have got Egress tires on. The wheels and tires were fitted on my thundershot 7 years ago, I ran it once on my dad's lawn and found it grip rolled terribly, so the wheels and tires have sat in the back of a cupboard since (not on a model). Hopefully the pictures demonstrate that the wheels are unmarked, and the tires still have the flash on the tips of the centre spikes, so it can be seen that they have no discernible wear on them. I'm happy to split the wheels from the tires (or vice versa) if you just the wheels or the tires, but no point in removing them from the wheels if someone wants both.
  11. Just been reading through the section on the motorised legs, ingenious way of doing this. I did a similar thing with the blade on the front of my forestry machine, but on a slightly bigger scale (I had to use a 540 motor with reduction gearbox and 5mm threaded rod), as I wanted it to lift the front end of the machine off the ground with the blade. To limit the movement of the blade I turned a bit of thread off the threaded actuator rod at both ends, so that if the threaded component that ran on the thread came to the end of the thread if would not drop off the end, and it could not lift it up high enough to lock when retracting. If you could file a bit of the thread of either end of each actuator shaft (I know it's only 2mm and it might snap), when the legs are lifted they will synchronise in the fully retracted position as they run off the end of the thread, as the smooth part of the shaft will allow the motor to turn without moving the leg, allowing the other leg to catch up. Likewise lowering the legs, as long as they hit the ground before they run off the far end of the thread, if one hits the ground before the other it will just spin on the unthreaded portion of the shaft until the other one catches up. When there is weight on both legs and you reverse the motors, they'll pick up on the threaded rod again, being roughly synchronised by the floor level.
  12. More stuff to go: Full Option King Tiger Turret rotator TT01 gear stash. Bits in the bag are new, the rest are lightly used. Bought them for a project, used 'em once, then they went back in the ice cream tub DF-02 axles (used) The remains of a one way roller unit that I bought for my TT-01. The main bearing went in a custom axle for my TXT-1, but the outdrives, bearings, and ring gears might be useful spares for someone still using theirs in the right car... One ring gear is brand new, the other is used. Not a complete unit, what you see is what you get.
  13. It's Millennium Falcon of RC. To some people it's a bucket, but if you own it, you love it, and when you pull it out of storage and hit that slightly too large jump, it's case of 'hold together baby, hold together......'
  14. 1st vehicle up for sale, my Super Sabre hybrid: It has a team blue groove bodyshell, painted with genuine Tamiya silver PS paint, and it has genuine Tamiya decals. I wanted an uncluttered look for the shell so didn't apply all the decals, but I kept the ones I didn't use and they will be included in the sale. The changes from a stock Sabre, most obviously are the yellow shocks. Also, I've made custom body mounts and a brace for them: I've added a hotshot front anti roll bar as the super sabre / boomerang items are pretty floppy and useless. I've made brass bits to hold on the underguard, as the plastic ones I had were well worn: I've put thundershot axles in the front end, along with thundershot drive shafts, and what I think are terra Scorcher hardened drive cups. When I rebuilt this, I replaced the rear suspension arms, I put in stainless socket cap screws to replace the screw pins, so these rear arms have never had threads cut in them, so no worries over splits. I also tapped the holes the shocks are screwed into and used high tensile socket cap screws to attach them: The car is unballraced, apart from the gearbox outdrives (The rears have been done as well, but I forgot to take a picture): The car also has a period correct white end bell Johnson motor, which ran ok when I connected it up to a 2cell Lipo with an MSC. I replaced the chassis, underguard, and bumper with new re-re items, although the car has been run since then so there is minor scratching on some of these bits: Being a new chassis there are no cracks around the gearbox mount points: Here's the left over decals, and some spares: Now the bad bits: Front gearbox moulding has a crack in it: Decals have been scratched from use: I broke a peg off the battery clamp while cleaning the chassis up, just days after selling the last spares for it on this thread ( Doh!) : The above pic also shows the aluminium set plate retainer I made to replace the plastic one that always seems to deform in use. All in all the car would make a very solid reliable runner. It's clearly not completely original, but then it's not all 35 year old knackered plastic either. When fully ballraced the gearboxes are very smooth, I had the gearboxes apart when I removed the roller bearings and the main spur gear has no damage, something that can be common when the set plates are set incorrectly. Apart from the cracks in the front gearbox casing the plastics are all very solid with no pulled threads, with a lot of it being re-release plastics. The front shock mounts that connected to the front wishbones have also had the thread holes tapped to help prevent them from splitting. I found the MSC plate this morning:
  15. I think Tamiya will be here for the long haul. However, I don' think the quality is what it used to be. The Jagdpanther tank I bought nearly 10 years ago now had a warped bodyshell, and they'd got the holes in the hull for sprocket drives in the wrong place and I had to file the hull to get clearance for the drive shafts. I've also heard people complaining about the quality of the gears in some of the thundershot series re-releases (I'm wondering what my terra scorcher build is going to be like), and also someone on here had issues with a deformed clod buster axle housing. I've just finished building a comical hornet, and although the plastic quality was ok, I had 3 or so instructions manuals to refer to. The ESC comes with it's own setup instructions (which is fair enough), but I got a manual for building the chassis (Which included incorrect steps for building a driver figure that didn't come with kit), and then I had another manual for building the driver figure, which showed a mounting that wasn't for my chassis, and another manual for the bodyshell which didn't include the driver figure. This just smacks of penny pinching, and detracts from the general quality of the build experience. How much more effort would it be to make manuals specific for each kit ? Not much, and the owner is not going feel like they've bought something that's been botched together from several parts bins. I think when you're buying anything you've got to be aware of looking at negative reviews on the internet. There's always people that will complain about anything, people that don't know what they're doing and then complain when they can't get something to work right. When I buy something on Ebay, I always check the seller reviews, and it's quite amusing when you see someone leave negative feedback for something saying 'It's cheap rubbish that fell apart on first use' when they've £1.60 to get it from China. What to they expect for that kind of money? I couldn't post something to China for that, let alone make it and then make money on it. I've always bought tamiya kits, I think I bought the first one with my own money in 1985, and I've lost count of the box wrenches I've collected, so you can call me a loyal customer. I did have a brief foray into Kyosho with 2 Ultimas (Original and a Pro) in the 1990s, but other that it's always been tamiya. I've got to the point where I'm browsing Modelsport and Fusion hobbies, and not seeing anything in the Tamiya section that interests me, and I don't have a large collection of models, especially not by the standards of some of the members here. I'd have bought a FTX trail runner by now if it weren't for the the fact they don't come with differentials. The thing I guess that bugs me about Tamiya is that once they make something, it's the blanket refusal to change and improve it. It wouldn't kill them to update the clod buster with the longer TXT-1 stub axles and wheels. They improved the design from the Clod -> juggernaut -> TXT, so why not just update the clod and move on. All the bits are already in the parts bin, all they'd have to do is update the artwork and swap out a few bits in box. Bring out a Hotshot MK III. Hotshot II chassis and shell, with some Egress wheels on it and an updated sticker set. Now I've got a clod buster, I'm not to buy another one that's the same. However, if a new clod came out with improvements such as TXT stub axles, wheels, and axle mounted servos I might think about selling the old one and then getting a new one, and they'd make the new model more attractive to prospective buyers. A quick trawl of the internet will find that the general view of the steering in the clod is that it's rubbish and needs modification to work properly. How many is that putting off. Bring out a model that attempts to rectify that and they might sell a few more. Right, time to jump down off the soapbox before it collapses.........
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