MadInventor

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About MadInventor

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  • Location Wiltshire, UK

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  1. MadInventor

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Some of the dents aren't going to be repaired, as it's impossible to pull the dents out of the trailer without removing the entire skin... As you say, it adds a bit of character, and my son will look at them and remember they appeared the day that Dad rolled the War Rig
  2. MadInventor

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Not today, but yesterday, took the War Rig out to do a bit of filming. I'd bought 2 new LiPos for it a while ago as one of the originals had failed, and hadn't had a chance to 'stretch its legs' as it were. So got it out of car, and thought I'd do an initial test before starting filming to ensure everything worked ok. Everything was good, worked up to full throttle, held it there for a few seconds, looked fantastic, then it started to weave a bit, and I lost it and rolled it. Didn't even get it on film !!!. Anyway the damage list was extensive: 1. Broke off one the pieces of car shell and the bulkhead. 2. Broke 2 skulls of the flagpoles. 3. Broke 3 ribs off the trailer, snapped 2 in half. 4. Dented the trailer in 2 places 5. Broke off one blower. 6. Lost a filter mesh out of one of the air intakes. Anyway, decided to do some filming anyway, got a few clips, then fitted the on board cameras. Did one run with it, and the trailer detached itself. I'd made the same mistake as I did before, only this time when trailer came off it sheared the tow pin when it hit the ground. So that was game over for the day. Then when driving the tractor unit back, managed to roll it again and broke off the other blower, bent the door, bent the plough, broke off the exhaust stack frame and bent one of the mudguard mounts. My stunt driver also managed to do a high speed flip with the FAV and broke off the passengers arm and a bit of the rear end custom bodywork. Still, it was a fun morning overall, but I discovered it's basically impossible to drive the truck at full throttle on 6S with these new cells. It went out 3 pieces and came back in 19...…... Photos: Repairs underway: I did manage to get some half decent film done, nothing processed for uploading yet, but here's a few stills from the raw video:
  3. MadInventor

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Took a few pics of the War Rig and Globe Liner together to give a sense of the size difference
  4. MadInventor

    Double Wheels

    Quite some time ago now, when I started collecting parts for the War Rig, my tire order got messed up and I ended up with 12 free rock crawler tires. I thought it was time to do something with them and initially had the thought of using them for a 6x6 truck, with dual wheels on the rear of the truck (Using up 10 tires). So I made up 10 wheels, using a very similar design to those I made for the War Rig, with slightly adjusted wheel dimensions to accommodate the slightly smaller tires. Half way through this process I thought about having a generic set of double wheels I could fit to any 'standard' Tamiya axle. So I started off with a wheel that would fit the tire onto a Tamiya vehicle: Then made some hubs to fit the wheels to. These have 12 holes, 6 with threads for ease of screwing the wheels on, and 6 plain holes should I want to put bolts through the hub and use nuts to secure the wheel to the hub for a more realistic look: As I didn't fancy machining 12mm hex slots into the back of each hub, I just drilled and machined them to fit the standard axle and pin arrangement used on most Tamiyas, effectively incorporating the 12mm hex into the hub. This left me with a hub that can have wheels attached on the deep or shallow side: Shallow side outward for standard track Deep side outward for wide track (Only 2 of the 6 retaining bolts are fitted): That's not all however, but fitting the wheels narrow side outboard, I can then add a wheel spacer I designed and then add another wheel: I've just used the Hi-Lift here as a test bed to try the fit, I also had a Mad Bull I wanted to test drive them on. As the Mad Bull uses splined shafts for the hexes, I had to make 2 hubs with 12mm internal hex slots to fit over the Mad Bull 12mm hexes, however the fit came out ok. The fit came out pretty well, it was certainly noticeable however that there was more weight at the rear of the car. Running it (Silver can and 3S LiPo) the grip was excellent, far better than standard Mad Bull tires (I put this down to softer compound and 2 narrower tires v 1 wide one). It was also noticeable that the tires actually squealed under wheel spin and skidding, which was quite entertaining. The downside however was that the tires kept partially coming off the wheels, this could be sorted by glueing them on but I don't really want to do that. So for the time being they have put to one side to wait the right project to put them on, I'm still thinking about possibly a 6x6 crawler / trail runner with dual wheels on the rear, or maybe all round.
  5. MadInventor

    Globe Liner

    A couple of months I decided to push the boat out and treat myself to a Globe Liner. It was originally with the intention of building a 6wd off road lorry with walking beams fitted to a single rear axle. When the kit arrived from Fusion Hobbies, I thought I would put it together as a stock kit initially, then modify it at a later stage. However, once I started building it I decided that I liked it as the stock kit, so ended up 'completing' the build within a couple of weeks, to the standard of a completed rolling chassis. So this thread is not a blow by blow description of a standard build, as there are probably loads of those floating in the internet already, this is just some details on what I did differently. Along the way I made only a few mods, I fitted a set of roller bearings, made some custom exhausts and a new billet aluminium bumper, and a new pivot shaft for the rear leaf springs. Custom pivot shaft vs stock: As well as the stock shaft having one of the leaf spring pivot sitting on a portion of the thread, it was also a bit on the thin side: Whereas the one I made was properly the 3mm that the brass bushes are bored to: Fitted Aluminium Bumper The aluminium bumper was machined out on my milling machine and then polished with 2000 & 4000 grit wet and dry in a bowl of warm soapy water. The reason I made my own bumper was that I didn't want a plastic bumper that once scratched would show black plastic through the chrome, and also, quite a few years ago, I had a King hauler, and when I ran that I found the licence plates scraped the floor when going over a any slightly damaged surface, causing the light lenses to fly out, so I wanted a bumper with a bit more ground clearance. Sure it would have been easier to just chop the licence plates off the stock bumper, but that would have shown up bare plastic under the chrome. Custom Exhausts When I built the War Rig I had a degree of success making exhaust tails from polished steel tube using a Draper miniature pipe bender, so thought I would have another go at it for this model. It ended up being a right pain and took me about 6 attempts to get a decent results. The first problem was that I couldn't remember what metal I'd used to make the originals with. I did have a small piece left over from the War Rig pipes, but ballsed it up on the first attempt so no metal to use. As such, I bored out some 10mm steel bar on the lathe so that it had 0.5mm wall thickness and tried that. It collapsed when I tried to bend it. So I then tried 1mm wall thickness and the benders nearly broke trying to bend it even slightly (There is a big warning on them saying only use for copper pipe ). Then I remembered that I'd used some B&Q 10mm pipe for the War Rig pipes. This isn't that same quality as the engineering steel I'd been gifted before (The B&Q stuff is I think formed from sheet and then welded, rather than the seamless round bar.). Finally success, I managed to bend the pipes without the bender exploding, and I was able to finish the pipes off by shaping the ends with the milling machine. I also added a couple of peelers vintage decals to the mudflaps: A proper universal joint between the drive axles, which I got from Prices Model Trucks on ebay: and a Tamiya driver figure: After I'd put all this together, of course I wanted a trailer for it as well. Now IMO, 1/14 trailers are eye wateringly expensive for what they are, so I initially thought I build my own. A quick investigation on Ebay revealed that even buying cheap Chinese 1/14 tires, the rear suspension and shocks and a light bar was going to set me back almost as much as a Tamiya flatbed trailer. So I bought a Tamiya flatbed trailer instead, initially thinking I'd strip it for parts and make a slightly longer log trailer from B&Q box section and 2 left over frame rails I had from when I made the war rig trailer incorrectly and used frame rails that were too shallow. Another order to Fusion Hobbies and the trailer promptly arrived in the post. Looking through the box I mostly liked what I saw so decided to build it almost as stock and then do another trailer at a later date. After emptying the contents of the box, I was a bit disappointed with the quality of the plastic used to mould the rear light cluster and the bolster pins that run down the side of the trailer. It's coloured in a horrible gunmetal metallic-ish finish, so I decided to spray the lot matt black. Whilst I was at it, I didn't think that the bare metal finish of the aluminium parts looked particularly realistic either, so ended painting the underside parts in matt black as well (whilst having flashbacks to the War Rig build lol ). The plate at the front of the trailer I painted the same red as tractor unit, as well as the aluminium L section that runs down the sides. I also decided at this point that I wanted to add lights to the trailer, including side running lights, so after much work and rework (I'd initially wired all the LEDs up in parallel which I later found out from friends with more knowledge than me that that would probably cause the resistors to melt), I got to this stage. This got me point of having the rear lights, 12 orange side lights, 2 indicators, and brake lights wired in. As I was going to make the lights work, I didn't really want the 3 central lights to be decals, so, I drilled the rear panel and made a small plastic mount to clamp in the 3 LEDs: After that I was able to finally fit the wood to the trailer bed (The trailer had been worked on for about 3-4 weeks by now, and it should have taken about a day to assemble without painting or adding lights. I was a bit of a doughnut however, because when I first built the trailer I didn't follow (i.e. read carefully) the instructions, nor did I build it in order, so had the whole thing more or less assembled apart from the wood bed and the leg activation mechanism, when I discovered I'd put the main bottom plate in upside down (Hence the reason the lower plate is painted matt black on the inside with 2 aluminium speed stripes !) and had to dismantle and re-assemble the trailer. In order to get the lights to work, I didn't want to spend mega bucks on an MFU or the stock Tamiya lights kits, so bought a 3Racing unit instead for £15 and about 90 LEDs off Ebay for less than a tenner. I used 26gauge silicon wire for the wiring, which is nice and flexible. To connect up all these LEDs, I ended up putting the LEDs in banks of 3 in series, then connecting the banks up in series. For the indicators, I connected the main 5mm LEDS in the trailer in series, and 5mm Leds in the rear lights clusters in the tractor unit is series, then connected the trailer and tractor unit LEDs in parallel. This was then all connected in series with the small 3mm orange LEDs used to operate the tractor unit front indicators. To connect the trailer lighting to the tractor unit, I bought some Dupont connectors from Ebay (2x5 configuration), and then used the same connectors on the cab lighting, to make it easy to disconnect the cab from the tractor unit. Finally a loom was fitted into the tractor unit to connect the Dupont sockets to the 3racing light unit. Oh, and I also made up shorter Y leads to connect the light unit to the receiver, ESC, and steering servo. Cab Wiring Some of the chassis wiring Dupont connector used to connect trailer. The finished effect:
  6. MadInventor

    Quicrun 1060 - faster in reverse

    It's not an issue with the transmitter, it's the way the speedo functions. The transmitter channel 2 needs to be set for reverse for the quicrun to auto calibrate correctly. Then switch the motor wires as necessary to get to go faster forwards. I found this out when trying to use a quicrun in a globe liner with a light kit. The brake lights were coming on when I hit full throttle, and nothing in reverse. Changed to an older speedo with a manual calibration that meant I could the transmitter set to normal and everything worked fine.
  7. MadInventor

    SOLD: 1/16 King Tiger (x2) 56004

    Finally sold both of them...……….
  8. Drat, I was going to ask you if you wanted to sell the tires ……………. I've got a set of used original white ones, but they've been previously painted. If no-one else comes forward with a set get back to me and twist my arm
  9. MadInventor

    Why bevel the teeth?

    Here's my shot in the dark: The wider the gear tooth, the more important it is that the gear shafts are perfectly parallel. If they are slightly out of parallel the tooth will be tight at the extreme ends of the tooth face, or the very end of the gear tooth will take all the pressure during contact. . It's probably an effort to allow for poorer manufacturing tolerances in the gearbox rather than any effort to reduce stress or improve the look of the tooth.
  10. MadInventor

    Help choosing a new, larger build.

    KongHead ? It's a good 6wd base that you adapt to build a 6wd trailer runner from.........
  11. Not in your list but I use a Clod Buster. Haven't done anything special to it for beach use, just keep it out of the water and give a clean every 5 years or so
  12. Thanks guys, time to get out the drill and the LEDs.
  13. MadInventor

    Vintage Hotshot Switch Plate Question

    I just used to fully tighten the flat head screw. The switch plate flops about on it a bit but is held fairly firmly once installed in the mechanism box. I never had any issues with function of the MSC whilst driving it, but it was noticeable that there was some wear on the main switch plate after a lot of use.
  14. I've just recently bought the Tamiya flatbed trailer, which I would like to add some lighting to. At the rear of the trailer there is a sticker that appears to be 3 red lights or reflectors, mounted centrally. What are these ? Are they supposed to be reflectors, brake lights, or just rear illumination for night driving ? Also, are the little orange stickers that go down the sides of the trailer supposed to be reflectors or lights? I looked online at some pictures of flatbed trailers and there didn't appear to be any side running lights, would these be mounted lower down on the underside of the bed. Thanks,
  15. MadInventor

    CR151 tx compatible receiver

    Thanks for getting back to me on that, I think I will go ahead and order one