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Everything posted by MadInventor

  1. Hi Ray MFU-01 sounds right for the American rigs, as these were the first models produced by Tamiya, Euro trucks came later. I can answer the motor question, I would go for an 80 turn motor in favour of an additional reduction box. Space will be at a premium under the bonnet, especially with the MFU fitted, the 80 turn motor will also increase your run times. Downside is the lower power output, but unless your planning on towing a trailer full of steel rods or concrete blocks then it will be fine. Have you thought about a trailer yet ?
  2. Totally agree with the comments about the track. A good off road course would include several surfaces. That's the definition of off road. Off road is not a completely uniform surface with slopes. That's on road racing in Wales. Multiple surfaces would level the playing field a lot where a car is dialled in for a particular surface. How much more interesting it would be to have a track that included tarmac, sand, mud, and gravel. And part of it with a surface rough enough to need a decent amount of ground clearance to get over. Perhaps instead of high jumps perhaps a steep slope to have a to get up. This would obviously require a custom build course and is beyond the reach of the average club, but it would certainly make for interesting racing. It would be no good being super fast round the smooth high grip parts of the course if you can't negotiate the 45degree sand pile. That's where the clod buster catches up with the CAT...
  3. This is what happens when winning is everything and you don't race 'real' cars any more. And yes, IMO, the cobra still looks better.
  4. Finally finished an underguard for the rear end of my TXT-1. The axle parts are so expensive now I thought I'd better look after them a bit better! It's much lower and close in to the axle than the stock guard. The wheel are hubs are also directly attached to the brackets so no need for a long track rod between them and a lockout rod. 1.5mm thick steel underguard that angles up to the front and rear of the axle. More heavy steel on another model, but this has a 1/8 brushless system in it so the additional weight is not going to adversely impact the performance Steel plate underguard Close fitting low profile guard. Also there are threads for the 4 mounting bolts to thread into, so no locknut required to attach it.
  5. 4wd front wheels are usually narrower than rears. 2wd fronts usually have bearings in them, whereas 4wd fronts are bolted to a hub. If you want to go hex hubs on a hotshot, can I suggest a set of Egress / vanquish wheels. They are sort of period correct for the car and your existing hotshot tires will fit on them.
  6. If you have a bottomless wallet you can just send them a sample and they can measure it from that. However, most cars use one of a few standard sizes, it looks most likely to be 0.8 module. You can work it out by measuring the diameter of the gear and counting the number of teeth. From this you can work out the pitch of the gears.
  7. HPC gears in the UK (www.hpc.com) will make custom gears to order. A standard 0.8 or 1.0 module gear of about that size in steel that is going to set you back around £10 plus £8 for postage (Last time I ordered from them about 4 years ago), but then it looks like you'd have to get them to machine it for bearings, so that will cost as well. But the good news is that will be the last part to wear out on the car.
  8. My own 2 cents, I would not use 3D printed gears. I've built several gearboxes from scratch and have always used machined steel gears or Tamiya gears. If you get the distance between the gears wrong by as little as 0.1mm (That's 0.05mm error on each gear) the transmission will bind. So you've got to ask what the absolute of the 3d print is going be especially with regards to the centre hole. If the gear is eccentric by as little as 0.05mm it's probably going to be scrap. Then you've got to look at surface finish. Steel gears have a very smooth finish, I've never seen any 3D printed part that can come close to that, so when the gears are under load a rough surface finish is going to generate a lot more friction.
  9. I machined the backplate to fit, it also gets rid of the need to use the plastic inserts to hold the bearings. Axle rotation is the same, doesn't need to be reversed. I haven't pictures of it but I made an aluminium gearbox cover to keep dirt out of the gears, that's what the 2 extra holes in the backplate are for.
  10. Can I suggest having a look at this. It went in my showroom 7 years ago, it's a king hauler gearbox I modified for 4x4. it uses standard parts apart from a new backplate and a gearcover. The additional gears are standard pinions with a 5mm bore. I got this a little close to gear cover and had to mod it slightly to keep it sealed, but the basic idea is sound. perhaps 3D printing a plate and a gear cover is an option ? I could help out with the 5mm steel shafts if needed. Edit: Sorry, just re-read this and saw the bit about moving the gearbox backwards .........(facepalm)
  11. You could always add a thin steel skid plate under the rear bumper to protect it. Stick it on with silicon and then it can be removed at some point in the future and no need to drill holes in anything.
  12. Yep, just the dump truck and the land cruiser, I got my son a Dump truck for his 1st RC, it's been run on and off for 3 years now and no breakages. Yes, hobbies are expensive, you start off with a lunchbox and then end up losing 3 years spare time building one of these.
  13. yes, you can run LiPo in a lunchbox (You can you LiPo in pretty much anything with a shaped pack like those made by Core RC). I think you can even fit the square packs in them, so don't need to kept a Nimh shaped pack like you would for something like a thundershot. LiPo is definetly worth the money in the long run. They are lighter than NiMh, provide much more current, and generally last longer as well. When I first went LiPo to try and out drag a friend with an associated B4, I used to generally break the car before the battery went flat. Are you really really sure it's got to be a Lunchbox ? The GF-01 is a much better platform, it's 4wd with double wishbone suspension all round still does wheelies, and is far more stable the lunchbox. The kit is more initial layout and would put you over budget, but it's so much better than the LB.
  14. And Falcon and Striker back tires
  15. For me, I've got a 10Kg 1/16 King Tiger I built in 2010 with scale thickness steel armour that shredded the gearbox on the first run. My magic wand wave would be to have that fixed, reliable, and able to run. I've also got a lot more detail and a smoke generator to add to the War Rig one day (Adding detail to that could be a lifetime hobby in it's own right), and I'm currently trying finish another 6x6 project with a semi home made front axle. If everything was done, and I had the cash and the health to do it, I'd have a V8 Black T-Top Trans Am parked on the drive to take my son to school in (2nd, 3rd, or 4th gen, I'm not fussy, they're all good ), and a 6 cylinder County tractor parked on lawn to go off roading with, or simply to have the capability to park anywhere and not worry about a wheel clamp :).
  16. I'm not a racer of Clod busters, but what I did to mine was to use axle mounted servos on the front and rear axles, this should provide plenty of steering angle. I also used TXT-1 stub axles which are longer than the clod axles and TXT-1 wheels. This pushes the wheels out further from the suspension arms and generally makes the truck a lot more stable. I did this however before TXT-1 wheels and stub axles became slightly more difficult to find than powdered unicorn horn. As you've already pointed out, cutting off the limiters is a bad idea as it will cause the dogbones to bind, so IMO the best result to go for is to get the steering to hit the bump stops at the end of the travel on both the front and rear axles. If you want more positive steering you can also try messing with toe in/out settings on the axles, this may further improve the situation.
  17. First I'd find out what's in stock ! I've had lots of buggies as well, Mad Bull is fun on the beach but the handling is basic, thundershot chassis based cars are easy to run and maintain, I've got a terra scorcher waiting in the wings I'm just waiting on paint so I can build it, I always prefer 4wd to 2wd, but if was going to be 2wd I go for a Wild One, if money was no object I'd have one of the re-re Kyosho Ultima, as they're just such a well thought out package.
  18. I got my first Tamiya RC at about 8 years old, which was a Sand Rover. Don't have it now but generally 'collect' re-re's of the old vintage kits. I also spend a lot of time building models of kits that just aren't available anywhere (e.g. my 1/10 8ft long War Rig )
  19. The rear suspension at the bottom has been 'fudged'. The shock absorber ends are wrong, they should have a moulding that will accept a ball joint, and there should be a ball joint screwed into the black mounts which the shock end then clips on to. The screws and flange nuts are incorrect that hold on the shocks at the bottom. The front end is OK. There should be oil in the shock tubes, but you can use different piston heads on the shock pistons to adjust the damping. The fat yellow C clips at the top of the shocks can be removed to reduce the pre-load on the suspension which may soften it a little. This chassis is notorious for poor handling so it does not surprise me you cannot get it to go in a straight line, particularly as the fudge to the rear suspension will stiffen it even more and cause it to behave erratically.
  20. It's definitely more cost effective to increase the volts on your batteries, rather than trying to upgrade the motors. 8.4V will got faster and you will notice a slight increase in performance. I would bin the Tamiya plug and use deans or another connector that will support more current. I would solder the plug rather than use adapters. Can't answer the question about the charger as you haven't mentioned what you're using at the moment. I use a multi-chemistry charger that supports NiCad, Nimh, and LiPo. These are much better than 'dumb' chargers as they will monitor the battery and detect when it is fully charged, so that it is not overcharged. Well worth the investment in the long run. I don't know if the standard Tamiya ESC will support 8.4V or if it will blow up. You need to check the spec on the operating voltage. Hobbywing do an excellent dual motor ESC (880) for reasonable money that is good up to 4S (14.4.V), which is what I've got in my son's clodbuster. We still only run it on 7.2V, but it's nice to know it's never going to blow, and it's waterproof as well, and we can always up the volts in the future if we want to. Are you planning on using Ni-mH or NiCads ?
  21. Go them through the post today. Thank you very much, they look fantastic. They're going to end up on my F350 high lift with some crawler tires
  22. Yes, I've done this on several occasions. I used to build my own 9.6V NimH packs , and not having used them for a few years, tried the discharge - recharge trick to find one or more cells had died, so chopped the packs and rebuilt them with all good cells. I've also done it with prebuilt packs, where I had dead cells in one pack, so cut it in half and added the good cells to another pack to make a 10.8V 'triangle' pack to fit in a TT-01 for doing speed runs. I've also had good success with reviving Ni-mH packs that have been dormant for more than 4 years, and got them back to 90%+ of their original capacity.
  23. 1. Flog the RF and spend the money on some bits for the Hotshot. Shouldn't be too difficult to get it to outperform a MadBull or a neo fighter. More power always works well 2. Good idea, hornet style rear suspension with the whole gearbox as unsprung weight is an inherently poor design. Anything with double wishbone suspension will be a huge improvement. As @Finnsllc said, a DT-02 or DT-03 would be a cost effective option, but they do have limited gearing options. 3. Bling does not equate to going fast in a lot of cases. Replacing plastic with aluminium makes things go together better with less slop, but usually adds weight as well, which if you use a lot will affect the handling and the acceleration. I'd rather be the underdog racing the old hotshot against the newer cars, it's a lot more satisfying getting an old design to perform than buying the new performance out of the box. Also the hotshot is not an inherently bad design, it's just a bit on the heavy side and the transmission has a bit more drag due to a couple more gears than you would find in the Neo-fighter transmission. But a), you can overcome these issues with more power, and b), the Neo-fighters suffer from torque steer, which the Hotshot doesn't. 4.Practice. Formula 1 drivers are always blaming their 'uncompetitive' cars It's not always the fastest car that wins but the smoothest driver. 5. As a parent you should be letting your child win anyway !
  24. People loved the car, not the price ? Or perhaps just a lack of interest outside hard core Tamiya fanatics ?
  25. IMO the Hornet was just the worst. It looked ok but the handling was appalling, my sand rover drove better than a hornet. The only thing it gets points for is it's popularity, but a lot of that was driven by it's pricing. On balance I'd say my vote would go the Wild One. It looked realistic, had independent suspension all round, and drove well into the bargain.
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