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MadInventor

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Everything posted by MadInventor

  1. GF-01 dump truck. Tough 4wd fun. Clod busters are a lot of cash, but they are a lot of fun and last forever, so also good value for money over their lifetime.
  2. It would look better with conventional TXT wheels & tires or even clod wheels. The blacked out windows also add to the 'toy' vibe IMO
  3. It would be good if we can collectively identify the donor parts as well. The diff gears and outdrives look decidedly kyosho, and the red diff housing looks it has come out of a belt drive car and had the drive teeth for the belt removed. as for the white plastic drive gear itself, no idea what that's come out of. As others have said, it's a cool looking and well designed modification. Would have made a nice update for a proper re-release Sand Rover.
  4. Because some things get meaner as they get older It may have something to do with the boomerang having a tranverse mounted motor, whereas the TT-02 is longitudinally mounted. The boomerang transfers the power to rear axle without any torque twist (Just tries to pick the front end off the ground), but because of the layout of the TT-02 transmission, the turning force being put through the centre transmission is trying to twist the differentials around the centre prop. Using very powerful motors this is going to try and lift one front wheel off the ground and burying the rear wheel on the opposing side into the ground as the chassis twists.
  5. Ended up ordering an RW racing one from modelsport. When I looked at my son's GF-01 to see if it still had the aluminium pinion in it I found I'd already put one in that, and that was 4mm wide compared with the Tamiya cheese special at 5mm...…….
  6. I'd really like steel to be honest. What I'm particularly bothered about is the tooth width from side to side, as narrower pinions are more likely to shred the plastic gears.
  7. I've been putting together a G6-01 today, got half way through the build and realised that I don't have a steel pinion for it, doh! I've had a quick look for steel pinions, the only manufacturer readily available in the UK seems to be RW racing, I've got lots of their pinions, but the tooth width in 0.8 module is narrower than the standard Tamiya pinion and I'm guessing that 0.6 module is going to be the same. Given that it's going to have to drive both rear axles through one plastic idler gear with 0.6mod pitch teeth, I'm a bit concerned that the lack of surface contact area due to the narrower teeth might cause the plastic gear to strip. The only other source of pinions I've found is Carson pinions, which I can get from Germany, but a quick look on the internet and I can't find any info about tooth width. If anyone has a 0.6 module carson steel pinion kicking about, I'd be very grateful if some could measure the width of the teeth and post it up here (in mm rather inches if possible ). Thanks,
  8. I'd buy the supershot and then add a hotshot body. I've got a re-re hotshot with an original hotshot HP suspension kit on it and an underguard, and it's one of my favourite drives. I bought the HP suspension kit when you get them for under £20, so your best value for money option is to buy the supershot and change the bodyshell.
  9. I made them myself on the lathe. I'm fairly certain I sold them with the car...…...
  10. My 2 cents, just echoing what others have said that the subscription is really very cheap, most years I recoup more that than with the 10% off that Fusion Hobbies give to subscribers of TamiyaClub. Perhaps the model shops that have small ads on the main site page could be persuaded to contribute a little extra in return for having an ad. space somewhere on the forum. Just speaking personally, I spend most of my time on the forum rather than the main site, so ads there would be more likely to grab my attention, and RC related ads are going to be a lot less annoying than those from the google random ad generator
  11. You're all kidding yourselves, every project is an unfinished project, they're never really finished, just put to one side until the next good idea for them comes along. I have about 14 unfinished projects .......
  12. It's probably the ball joints aren't screwed in fully into the red upright at the bottom. If they protrude slightly the 2mm screws that hold the ball retaining plates in place dig into the wheels. If you look at the inside of the wheel you will be able to tell if this is happening as there will a ring of scratches round the inner part of the wheel. When you compress the suspension, the angle of the lower arm changes and lifts the screws away from the wheel.
  13. I'm well happy with mine stock out of the box. All I did out of the ordinary with mine was a HobbyWing 1060 ESC and a 3 cell Lipo to give it a bit more pep, once I'd ballraced it.
  14. Simple answer, yes. The plastic bushes in the transmission will probably melt and weld themselves to the axles, and you be quite lucky 'when' you roll it if the LiPo doesn't get damaged and catch fire.
  15. To add my 2 cents of the models I've owned and used a lot: White models: Clod Buster. Bought one of these in the 80's when they first came and it more or less bomb proof. The steering is a bit cack out of the box, but it doesn't detract from the fun that can be had with it. I got one a 4 or 5 years ago for my son to learn to drive with , it's been on holiday to the beach and only gets cleaned with the air compressor. The gearboxes haven't been apart since I initially built it. GF-01 Dump Truck. Got my son one of these a few years ago, and have to say, I'm tempted to get one for myself. It's fun to drive, robust, quick, handles well for a small monster truck, and if it's got flaws, I haven't found them yet ……. Thundershot / Terra scorcher. Really like these as a chassis. The transmission is bomb proof, the car can be made to handle well, and the A5 part can easily be replaced with an aluminium replacement. Mad Bull. Again, this is a regular runner of mine. It has quirky handling, but is not a roll over machine like the lunch box. A very robust model that can be made to go fast easily and is ideal for beach running. DF-02 / TT-01 - Owned a couple of these, and they only became unreliable when I fitted stupid brushless power in them trying to crack 50mph. The DF-02 was prone to chassis breakage though with front end impacts, but otherwise not a bad car. Gray models I put most of tamiya's models in this category, as I'm picky and can find fault in most things: Hornet. Bought one of these as a kid and found the handling awful. Yes the gearbox is robust, but I broke several front suspension arms, and the wing is easily damaged from roll overs. TXT-1 - Overall this is a great model, but the brass centre drive shafts are rubbish, I've replaced them in both my TXT-1s with traxxas REVO shafts which are much stronger. Tamiya should really look at doing their own version, the plastic revo shafts have got to be cheaper to make than the machined brass Tamiya design. The only other flaw is the rod ends on the 4 link arms, I regularly pull the plastic ends off in slightly hard landings and minor collisions with my sons Clod Buster. Sand Rover My first buggy when I was a kid. I had a lot of fun with it, but the gearbox was weak and prone to damage with the open gears. Hated the re-re, Tamiya could have taken the bathtub chassis from the original model and removed the moulding for the rear gearbox and added something robust on the back of it, widened the chassis or cut a hole in it for 7.2v battery, and beefed up the front suspension mounts slightly. Bang on some sand scorcher wheels and tires and it would have been a winner and would not have been necessary to cut holes in the bodyshell. Black models I think overall these are few and far between, the only one I can remember owning was a Mud Blaster. I know this has already been discussed, but I had one of these and was royally disappointed with it. The gearbox shredded itself after a few weeks mild driving, along with hex drive shafts. I agree with DK308, the re-re's of the Monster Beetle and Blackfoot should have had the Bush devil rear end on them. If they had done I would have bought one, but the original gear case was a bad design on the frog, before Tamiya added monster sized tires to it.
  16. I've progressed (Well, done more work) on this over the last few weeks. I initially used hi lift leaf springs to attach the axles to a 3 racing lightweight aluminium chassis I got cheap off Ebay few years ago: I also finished off the transfer case: Machining the rounded curves on the casing. No CNC work here, all (very) old school. Mounted to one of the Hi Lift chassis braces With the outer case fitted Fitted in situ in the chassis I then turned my attention to the steering, taking some inspiration from the Junfac kit that used to be available for the Hi-Lift: Home made servo bracket and aluminium track rods. I removed the heads of 20mm socket cap bolts to make the studs required to attach the track rod ends. I then spent some time attaching the axles with a 4 link system. I initially used the Hi Lift surplus kit parts for attaching the links, but they are a loose fit on a King Hauler axle (which I used for the walking beam axle as it looked stronger and was cheaper that the hi lift axles), so I ended up making a couple of brackets myself: which are now a nice solid fit on the King Hauler axle: So this is the truck as it stands at the moment: The 4 link geometry is way off, the front axle is too close to the centre of the truck and needs to be move forwards, and the rear axle is also slightly too close as I didn't manage to replicate the dimensions of the Hi-Lift brackets exactly in my custom made ones (Got the mounting holes too close the axle by about 1-2mm). I also found that the axles pivot upwards when the suspension is compressed, which also needs to be resolved. So I now need to remake the side plates that mount the 4 links to the chassis, and / or possibly remake some of the 4 links with different lengths to resolve the pivoting issue. Once that is done there is then the small matter of making a reduction box to go between the motor and the transfer case.
  17. Not really livery, but my favourite out of the box scheme is definitely the original hotshot box art with the '4wd' coat of arms.
  18. You could also look at whether the drive shaft yokes are lined up correctly (Assuming they are telescopic sliders). They should look the same at both ends. However, malformed hubs causing twisting of the bearing sounds like the most likely culprit, unless the bearings are being over-revved and getting hot. It might also be worth getting the sub axles out and rolling on a perfectly flat surface to ensure they are all straight.
  19. You won't need to take the axles out of the tubes, but you'll need to split the gearbox in half to remove the tubes.
  20. Going to be 1/10th if possible. Pricey is still better than scratch building !
  21. Well I didn't want to be outdone by the GF-06 :). That aero engine looks a nice piece of work. What is it ?
  22. Another 6wd truck with the walking beam drive for the rear axle, with hopefully a few improvements over the Scammel I built several years ago. There's a thread in the builds which is now viewable. The leaf springs are temporary until I can get a 4 link system attached. Bodyshell is going to be something off the shelf, with a flatbed on the back. That's the plan at the moment anyway.
  23. Nearly finished one side of the transfer case:
  24. Started designing the transfer case for this thing:
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