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Everything posted by MadInventor

  1. If you're planning on restoring a basket case spares are really rather scarce at the moment. A quick look at Ebay reveals no boomerang rear arms at all in the UK. You'll probably find a similar situation with most vintage cars. And buying 2 old cars to make 1 good one doesn't work either, because you'll find the same parts are broken or worn out on both of them. You're better off looking for a pre-restored example, or something more modern that has stock in your country.
  2. That's where I got mine from, you will find when it arrives that it's also got a cooling fan fitted, even though it's not shown in the photos.
  3. The 60A would probably be OK as long as you limit it to the kit silver cans and 2S LiPo (It is rated for 3S with a lower turn motor, but only one). The one Wolfdogstinkus has listed is the 880 I have in my Clod Buster, it's a good ESC. The traxxas drive shafts are not difficult to modify to fit, although they've doubled in price since the last time I looked at them. When I get a bit of time I'll post some pics of how I originally fitted them to my TXT-1 (They're buried in my showroom somewhere)
  4. Ballbearings included will be fine. If you can't do soldering then you'll need a twin motor ESC. If you could then you could solder the motor connections together and the just use a high amp brushed ESC. The Twin motor ESCs just have 2 sets of wires for twin motors should you not be able to modify the connections yourself. A good alternative twin motor ESC is a hobbywing 860 or 880. These are Lipo compatible as well as NiMh. You can also use up to 4S LiPo, should you decide you want to wear out the drive shafts really quickly...... 3. Most 1/10 analogue servos will be fine, although a metal geared servo with ball bearings would be a good shout given the size of the front wheels. 4. other things to consider.... I personally hate the wheels and tires, so I'd advise trying to find TXT-1 wheels and some clod tires. Tires are easily available, wheels are like unicorn horn at the moment. The centre drive shafts are made from brass, even one of the pins in the drive shaft yokes, which means they wear very quickly. I have replaced mine with cut down traxxas revo drive shafts, these are really strong. You do need to remove a bit of metal from the lower heatplate on the gearbox to get them to fit though, and the pins that attach it to the centre gearbox need to be held in place (Glued or heatshrink put over them). Other than that it's a very good, solid truck. Enjoy.,......
  5. Simple for me, just doing some changes to my vintage Juggernaut 2 runner so I can fit a Clod Buster shell, and some transmission updates. Pics below are a mock up, working now on making it fit. Nothing fixed for 2021, have a Terra Scorcher kit stashed for a build at some point, but no enthusiasm to start on it yet.
  6. If you want to run 2 ESCs from one receiver channel, you need to cut or remove one of the power pins, so that only the signal wire goes to one of the ESCs, otherwise you get problems. It may be that you've written them off by connecting the power across them. There's no problem with running 2 ESCs from one battery, did it in 2 tanks.
  7. Having seen what happens to a TVR bodyshell in a crash I would go with alloy over carbon for things like shock towers. Yes the alloy might bend in a crash, but carbon simply snaps if you hit it hard enough. Alloy I can always squash back flat in a vice, but once carbon has snapped it's bin food.
  8. I'll Pm you when I've investigated postage, and what they're currently selling for.
  9. I've got 4, sell you at least 2, assuming you're in the UK
  10. I only ever use Royal mail now for sending stuff. Even if they are more expensive than other couriers at least they deliver to the door. From the posts here it sounds like MyHermes just throw the parcels out of a B17 from 25000ft and hope they get somewhere near the target........
  11. Rear arms are all on one sprue with no excess unwanted parts so they're ideal to package into a kit like this. I'd suggested not throwing in the whole red parts tree in but just mould the rear uprights onto their separate sprue (Cut's down on plastic waste, see my previous rant about this in my Konghead kit , Tamiya have got to stop putting a sprue in a kit just because you need one or 2 bits from it. It makes it expensive for us and bad for plastic consumption). Body parts kit could be a separate kit. That way if you can't afford the whole thing you can choose between the suspension upgrade, or just changing the bodyshell, or buy one then save up for the next one. Remember we got into this hobby when we were kids on a limited budget...... Yes, a Winger bodykit would be nice for the boomerang owners as well. And that's just one car. There's loads of potential for the vintage kits to have upgrades (look at the massive Clod buster after market updates market), plus the straight axle conversion I mentioned here which no-ones doing at the moment.
  12. This isn't actually a problem unless you have a badly worn shaft. As power is passed through gears they will try and push each other apart, which puts pressure on the inner part of the roller bearing. This presses the shaft against the inner part of the roller bearing preventing it from spinning. I would say greasing metal on metal is a good idea to prevent water ingress rusting one surface against the other, especially for axle shafts on something like a Terra Scorcher. It's so easy to get water creeping onto the axles if you're running in the winter, then if you don't strip the car down and clean it over winter you end up with a bearing rusted onto the axle. Also, if you ever get a seized bearing due to water or grit getting in, a greased shaft will have less chance of being badly worn than one with no grease on it.
  13. It's just front wheel steer. Front suspension is a sprung frame with a pivoting axle (Like tractor front 'suspension' but on a frame with oil dampers). The drive axle is a king hauler item with modified axle. 540 silver can under the hood. Drifts brilliantly on wet tarmac on 2S, but rips the tracks apart on 3S. This was an old vid I took before I built the shell for it:
  14. Snagged a Terra Scorcher this year , so no, I won't need one of these.
  15. I've now wired up the LED lamps with a 100ohm resistor, so the next job is transmission mods. The Juggernaut came with a 5mm diameter output shaft, but the one I got was a 6mm TXT-1 item. I think the gearbox got mixed up in someone's parts bin, as the axles still had the original Juggernaut 5mm input shafts. I ended up making up some hybrid drive shafts that were part TXT-1 shafts, part Juggernaut items. Now these shafts were made from brass, but it might as well be cheese for how long they last. I'd fitted mine with some home made pins which were hardened steel instead of brass, which improved the situation, but the outer yokes are still brass and starting to show signs of wear. So today I ordered some traxxas slayer pro drive shafts to replace these, so I now got to make them fit. As their diameter is bigger than the tamiya shafts, I've had to make a new output shaft for the transmission. See pic below. The lower part is the standard tamiya item, with an aluminium hex driven by a spline and held in place with circlips. The upper one is the one I'd made. The hex is steel (Machined from round bar) and attached to the drive shaft by drilling and pinning (With a tamiya 12mm hex axle pin), and also glued on with the Loctite gear locker. Only 1 circlip is then needed to attach the gear to the shaft. The shaft is also longer to allow the traxxas drive shafts to bolt straight on without modification. Next job now is to modify the gearbox input shafts to be 6mm instead of 5mm. I would just use TXT-1 items, but there's no stock available anywhere, so I'll have to improvise. More on that later....
  16. I think the doors in the sub basement of Tamiya HQ marked 'Innovation' and 'customer support' have been hidden behind a pile of old empty hotshot and avante boxes. They should really put the drawbridge back in over the crocodile moat surrounding them and disconnect the tripwires connected to the booby traps as well.
  17. yeah, you're right, I'd forgotten about that.
  18. Thanks guys, Here's a prototype I prepared earlier for the straight axle TXT-1 conversion, combined with the wide track upgrade, here you go tamiya, no charge for the design effort... Just waiting on the longer axles tubes to be released: It's so few parts............ Now Tamiya having their own Ebay store, that is genius. To be able to order parts direct from them would be great. This was my thought process as well. With selling kits, you've got find either a collector that wants stuff just because it's tamiya, or a new customer that prefers tamiya over other manufacturers products and that involves competing with other manufacturers. But upgrade kits are a captive audience, and especially for those owners that only want to put tamiya products onto their models. Also with a lot of models it's becoming very difficult to source spare parts, and addressing some of the these foibles could be very lucrative. With regards to recycling the hotshot monoshock bits, Tamiya could always print a return label on the upgrade box and you could send the bits directly back to them for recycling. A lot of models end up on shelves in as new condition, so why not send the bits back to be re-used ? If you look at the brass drive shafts used on the TXT and Juggernaut models, I've replaced all of mine with traxxas drive shafts. They're far more robust, and being plastic must be cheaper to produce (They were certainly a lot cheaper to buy last time I bought some, £12 a pair versus £40 a pair for the soft brass option). So rather than keep putting expensive to manufacture shafts out there that are rubbish anyway, why not bring out your own version of the traxxas shafts and release them as an update. Having applied lots of polish to the crystal ball, I can see another issue looming on the horizon. Covid has been eye wateringly expensive for the government here, and I'm assuming for most governments around the world. They're going to want to claw cash back in somehow. There's also a lot of pressure to deal with plastic pollution. How long before someone in government suggests a tax on plastic production / imports ? It makes David Attenborough happy and makes money for the taxman. It's bound to happen sooner or later, (GCHQ will have passed this to the chancellor within 24hours of me posting this ). It would be better to be ahead of the curve rather than behind it when this happens. I couldn't believe the amount of redundant plastic I got in my Konghead kit I bought last year. All that effort to find the oil, get it refined, injection mould it into a product, package it (In more plastic bags), then transport it from it's country of manufacture to the UK, then deliver it to me, then I put it straight into the loft, until I can be bothered to advertise it on here, and then post it on to someone else. What a waste of effort and resources, multiplied hundreds of times over, when a bit more effort in designing sprues specific for the kit would have cut out all that waste. And that HP kit from the 80s came in a cardboard box, which can be easily recycled..................
  19. Some of you will know I've been having a bit of a clear out of the model car stuff recently, and whilst digging through the Hotshot stash I found this and it got me thinking (Dangerous I know.... ) This was produced (I'm assuming) sometime after the supershot was released, so that hotshot owners could update their hotshots suspension. It was an acknowledgement that: 1. the customer existed beyond the point of sale 2. There was room for improvement in a released model. 3. That it was possible to get more money out of an existing customer without selling them a whole new kit. 4. That is was possible to put parts into an upgrade kit without including the entire parts bag the bit originally came in, Now I think this was a great idea, and that more of the same now makes a lot of sense. Everybody must have notice that demand has shot through the roof since COVID, and it's getting harder and harder to source parts. The rumour mill on here has been saying that T. is running at reduced production, which let me to the following thought: If you have a limited production capability, you could produce several upgrade kits for the same capacity as making a single kit, and you could ship a lot more conversion kits than actual kits in a given space in a shipping container. To give an example, The Hotshot II hasn't been re-released yet. There's a lot of original hotshot owners out there, and a fairly steady stream of hotshots appearing on Ebay. So rather than re-release a Hotshot II kit, why not just release the parts in a kit that you need to convert a re-re Hotshot to a Hotshot II ? I've had a look at the manual, and all of the hotshot II specific bits needed to go Hotshot I -> hotshot II are on 1 sprue, apart from the red rear uprights, which could be reproduced on a single sprue. Throw in 3 CVA shocks absorbers and you're there apart from the bodyshell and decals, which could be another separate kit. I'm sure this would appeal to a lot of people. As a hotshot owner for many years, I'd quite like the idea of picking up a second hand re-re hotshot, and then making my own hotshot II. Tamiya could even package it as a green range, encouraging people to find a second hand car to re-use. I think there's also a lot of scope for chasing the market for upgrades for older kits. Take the TXT-1/2, juggernaut 2, and the Clod Busters. There's a lot of products out there for rear steering lockout kits for the clod buster, and the TXT-1 comes as standard as a 2 wheel steer kit. So why not produce an upgrade kit to create proper fixed axle ? Just redesign the axle tubes to be longer so the steering hub is no longer required, and package 2 drive shafts that run all the way from the diff to the hub. It provides a much sturdier axle with no need for steering lockout and track rods, and is a huge improvement from a design point of view over using a steerable axle and just locking out the steering. There's no dogbone and drive cup to wear for a start, and the axle has 2 less roller bearings in it. Another would be a kit to make the track wider for Clod Busters (Just TXT axles and some revised hubs). Come on Tamiya, it's not rocket science... So what do you all think ?
  20. What you want is one of these: Fast off road, scale appearance, 1 driving axle, military but not quite a sherman. A kit could be a problem, you'll have to speak to Tamiya about that
  21. I've now sold the bodyshell from the midnight pumpkin, and have decided to break the rest of it to sell it for spares. I'll be keeping the motor, but most of the other parts will be available.
  22. You're right about the motors, sport tuned has more RPM and less torque, torque tuned has more torque but lower top end. LiPos aren't just about top speed, they are much lighter than Nimh (Which means less weight crashing down on the shell when you roll it, and also much longer run times, so don't discount them completely. Your quest for more speed is inversely proportional to the desire to keep the model in one piece, for longevity of the model a RS380 will keep it in one piece for a long time, but you will need to find a subaru brat motor adapter plate ! Tamiya hard bodyshells are expensive to replace (and especially now with Covid, stocks of many things are very hard to come by), so I'd suggest getting a cheap polycarbonate to use to run it with until you get used to driving it. Other than than, a full set of roller bearings to replace the plastic ones, and a RW racing steel pinion to replace the kit aluminium one, which will wear very quickly.
  23. I can remember a friend painting my Ultima Pro shell using an airbrush, with Pactra clear Gold Flake following by a nice metallic orange / red, which looked fantastic, but that was early 1990s, so that's probably not still available now.
  24. Do you judge the peak year by what is released, or by what is available. I'd argue it's more important to look at what range was available in a particular year rather than just what the new releases are..... BTW 1985 is going to be tough to be with the Hotshot, Wild One, and Fox all in one year. 1987 was good because the Clod Buster got released and that was a game changer model, but then they also released the Striker that year, so that evens it out somewhat .....
  25. I've spent some more time on the mill this week, I made 4 of these brackets So that I could add an aluminium plate low down in the chassis. with room to put the ESC and receiver at the front of the truck. There would normally have been a moulded plate there to mount an MSC on, but this allows me to tuck the receiver and ESC down in the front of the truck, which will keep nearly all the wiring at the front of the truck. I can use a short run of wires from the RX to the LED bar to power it, and I have also been able to mount the on / off switch on the bumper close to the winch, which makes it easily accessible, and it doesn't look too out of place. It was surprising how long it took to make the brackets to mount the plate on, each one took well over an hour. In hindsight I should probably have asked a friend to 3D print them for me, but the aluminium will be stronger. So, things still to do: 1.Wire up the lightbar. 2. Shorten the motor leads to tidy up the wiring 3. Clean up the old radio / battery tray. 4. Convert the axle input from 5mm to 6mm so I can use traxxas drive shafts. This would be easy if the TXT parts were available, but they're not so I'm going to have to improvise. I also need to ID one of the traxxas drive shafts I used on the war rig, as I think it would ideal for this truck, but can't remember which traxxas model it came from (Facepalm!) 5. Take the gearbox apart and fit one of my custom output shafts that is longer than the standard tamiya items, and allows easy fitment of traxxas driveshafts. There is already a TXT-1 output shaft fitted, so I have some hybrid drive shafts in at the moment, which are made up from both TXT-1 and Juggernaut 2 drive shafts. 6. Build body mount for the Clod shell. I want to use the existing body holes to align the body, but have it held on underneath with velcro so I don't need to use body pins. 7. Get a clod shell, as the one in the photos has to go back on my sons Clod. 8. Decide what to do with the suspension, whether to go back to all leafs, which looks the best, but I'll have to find another use for the rear axle guard I made, or use a combo of leafs / 4 links, or go full 4 link. Decisions decisions........
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