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About jonboy1

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  1. sorry, but I just have to get this off my chest.. So I've been searching high and low for a early 90's Nosram Dominator ESC for a retro build I'm doing. Have drawn a blank everywhere. I was watching an ebay listing for a slightly newer model, just in case I got desperate and the seller also had some other vintage RC stuff up for sale, so I thought it was worth following. Out of nowhere i get an offer to buy the ESC I'm watching at a reduced price from the seller.... i politely decline saying it isn't exactly what I'm after, but on the off chance do they have an older version? They reply, "yes, I'm sure I do, let me go and see if I can find it!" 10 min later I get a picture of exactly what I'm after. "Does it work?" I ask. "Can't test it sorry, sold all my equipment." "Ok, let me know how much you want and when you list it and I'll have it." all goes quiet...... I email back the next morning: "Hi, can you let me know when you list it please? I'm waiting to buy it" "It sold yesterday." Unconvinced, I look at their sold listings - nothing for over a week. WHY DO THIS???!!!! WHHHYYYYYYYY????!!!!!!
  2. I did the Team CRP front end conversion, which you can find on their ebay store. it's a pretty straightforward conversion, fairly cheap and moulded plastic rather than 3D printed, which means it is more resilient.
  3. Oh, so we're doing this then are we?! Well, I see your very fine black Clod and raise you a red one that was 4 coats of red, flatted back between each, then 3 coats of clear, flatted back again and then polished.
  4. Agree with what they all said. It may look even now but I'd put money on you looking at in in a few weeks time under different light and noticing areas that are lighter/darker. I always do at least 3 coats of colour and flat back with 800 wet and dry (used very wet and with lots of fresh water) between each coat. Any dust or blemish will just look bigger with more paint on it and especially under a decal. If you go over your top coat with very wet 1200 wet and dry you will see exactly how rippled and uneven it really is. Then once you polish it you will be sooo glad you took the time to paint it properly.
  5. I found a new 3 tab resistor for Barneys Hotshot 2 a little while back, which may well suit (you'd have to check the ohms etc as Kev said) - it's part 50212. There may still be some on ebay. The Monster Beetles/Blackfoots had 3 tab resistors too if I recall correctly
  6. I hear Mr. Kipling is the guy to beat - ices the competition time after time
  7. I really think you should have jaffa cakes for wheel trims - it's the only decent thing to do
  8. no longer required
  9. hang on, I've got some jokes brewing....
  10. Bit of a long shot I'm sure, but I really need a pair of the U254K battery holders used on the Schumacher Cougar. If anyone has some they are willing to part with I can recompense handsomely. Thank you!
  11. Apologies for being very lax in the updates - lots been going on so I've not had much time for social...ness? (nothing new there then, says everyone) So after putting it all back together I decided that I just couldn't leave the motor wires the incorrect colours and the battery leads just weren't going to cut it, so it all came apart again New Tamiya motor wires and battery wires were purchased and fitted and so much nicer they look too. The wheels went back on and a second set for running purposes were cleaned up and painted a controversial shade (Barney wanted it, I said no, he said yes, I said I'd think about it, he cried, I did it) - it's amazing how such a small thing as wire can make such a big difference to the look of things: I had a go at the original body but it had been painted on the outside with a large stick and bitumen (I may be exaggerating...) so the quality of the outer surface was always going to be questionable. I will still see if I can make a reasonable runner body out of it but for this a new body set and decals were ordered from the lovely, lovely people at Team Bluegroove (Hi Trish ) and MCI Decals. They all arrived promptly and were introduced to Mr Scissors, Madam Snips and Senorita Spray Paint: Laydees and Gents, I proudly present to you, "Barneys Incredibly Brilliant Hotshot 2 Not Restored By Barney" Thank you and goodnight xx
  12. Thank you very much - I really appreciate that you like it To be honest, I'm much the same in not being a huge fan of FAVs - which is part of the reason why it's taken so long for me to do this. I held off putting the decals on for ages because I wasn't sure it was the right way to go, but I think it looks better with them. Part of what really bothered me with them was the front arms and uprights - far too blocky and ugly, so I modelled up these replacements: They're direct replacements for the standard parts - the uprights use the headlight mounts, so you need a little spacer to lift the headlight up a bit ( the A2 parts on the FAV parts tree are perfect) but the arms mount exactly the same. I lowered the bottom suspension mount so it accepts 72-75mm long shocks, so they are more like Wild Ones in geometry. They're based on the re-re arms, but I could easily modify them to make a narrow version if wanted
  13. ......In other news I've been working thinking about a project a friend asked me to do for him. He bought the red box art Brat about a year ago and is gradually building up a collection of the cars he drooled over as a kid. First was the Brat, next was a Sand Rover. Between us we were looking for a vintage one but he wasn't very keen on the suspension on the original and hated the re-re, so after a bit of discussion we decided a SRB/Sand Rover hybrid would be the way to go. So he bought me a very rough SRB semi-rolling chassis and new Sand Rover body set and told me to do my thing. After not doing anything for a few weeks he asked me to do something other than my thing and look at his Sand Rover. So I stripped the chassis parts, gave them all a very good clean (for they really were disgustingly grubby) and set about polishing the suspension arms. Assembled a "lite" chassis to give me where the wheels would be so I could work out how the body would sit and did some more thinking.... The more I looked at 1:1 scale buggies and compared them to the Sand Rover body the more I disliked it, so I went back to my mate and asked him to let me chop up his brand new body. Thankfully he agreed, so with a Sand Rover in one hand and a saw in the other I went to work..... My big issue (I have many in fact, but I'm seeing a psychologist about the non Tamiya ones) was the front wings. They are far too high (higher than the backs) and they are angled up, which is all wrong wrong wrong. Here's a side view: It makes me sad just looking at it. See? The bottom of the front arch is a good 10mm/0.5" higher than the rear. The top surface of the rear arch is pretty much horizontal, whereas you can see the inner of the front where it angles up (you'll see this more evidently in a moment) So with my trusty saw in hand I cut the front section of the wing off (carefully leaving the headlight mount attached to the body) and set about working where to cut/bend/reposition it so it looked better. Some time later I ended up here: So from the side you can now see the top surface of the wing is pretty much horizontal and is just lower than the rear (and it tapers down to the front nicely too) (the little marks are to set where the centre of the wheels are - I've shortened the chassis by 15mm to bring the front wheel under the high point of the arch) You really see the difference from the front: So now I've got one side done I just need to try and match the other.... Once that is done I can fill in the various holes and set about the other changes I want to make. (the marks on the front are to guide where I want to cut/bend the nose so it tucks under more) One step done, only another hundred or so to go! I'm pleased to say there is no glue and only a tiny skim of filler just to cover a couple of marks, so this is all as strong as original.
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