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jonboy1

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About jonboy1

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  1. The more I think about this question, the harder it gets to answer it. So my initial answer to "best" was the Astute - purely because it's my favourite. To justify it further I was going to point out the incredible level of adjustment they put into it out of the box - more than anything they had ever made before - camber, castor, toe in/out: the frp flat plate chassis, the gorgeous body. Then thinking about it more, most of those were the reason people didn't like it - the level of adjustment made it too complicated, heavy and fragile; the frp chassis was too flexible, the weight was too far back so it understeered. So should it be the worst? Another candidate was the Avante - the flagship model of the day. But again, it didn't work very well. So based on these reasonings, really the best should be either the Super Astute or the Egress, as they were the revised versions of those ultimately flawed beauties. However, there is another perspective to consider about the Astute - as there was another version of that which also resolved the over complexity of the original but also gave it more off road capability and the sweetest body ever - yes, the Monster Racer So that one gets my vote for best. Worst - it has to be the Falcon doesn't it? I mean, really, have you looked at it?
  2. there's an excellent list here of just about every hop-up for the DB-01: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17021 but as mentioned already, they are very hard (and very expensive) to get hold of now. I would sooooo love Tamiya to do another run of the hop ups for it, it's such a cracking chassis, so much better than pretty much everything else they have out now.
  3. if you were to cut 8-9mm out of the middle of the Skyline wing to make the centre to centre distance 100mm would the overall width still work for the Mustang, or would it be too narrow?
  4. 100% buy an M3 tap. They are only a few £ and will save you a lot of grief. As mentioned previously, the plastic in this chassis is very hard, you can get the screws to cut into them, but the chances are you will damage the heads of the screws doing it, trust me, I know! The big disadvantage of not tapping the threads first is that every time you insert or remove the screw you are going to be fighting the plastic, so it will always be a struggle. The reason being that with a tap, you cut out the plastic in a thread form, so it is always going to be a perfect size and fit. When you just go straight in with a screw you are pushing the plastic into the thread form, but not actually removing any material. So it is constantly under pressure against the screw, wanting to go back to it's original shape of a straight hole. So as soon as you remove the screw, the plastic goes ever so slightly back to it's original shape, meaning it will be tight screwing it back in again. Definitely get a JIS screwdriver (although why anyone who has a Tamiya but doesn't have the blue Tamiya tool set 74085 is beyond me.) There are 2 reasons for this: 1, the obvious one, the driver fits the screw head properly so you are less likely to damage it, and 2, the shaft of the screwdriver is correct. Often overlooked by anyone who has never built an ORV chassis is the fact that sometimes the screws are deep in a hole, so if your screwdriver shaft is ever so slightly too big it will be almost impossible to get to the head properly. This is the same with the DB-01 chassis. Where the drive belt covers and upper halves of the gear cases mount to the chassis some of the screws are sunk down, and it's very easy to find you are grinding away at the edges of the holes rather than the head of the screw. If you pre-thread the holes this becomes a lot more obvious if this is happening as you aren't using as much force to get the screw in.
  5. don't worry, already have magnetic mounts for it, totally agree about body posts!
  6. Been a while since I posted anything, largely because it's been a while since I did anything. All my delaying tactics for decorating the house got used up, so I've been 1:1 scale diorama painting. Prior to that, I did a light refurb and repaint of a small arch Ranger body for @barneys66 which I thought I'd stuck a few pictures up of, but clearly didn't. So, here goes: This is it as received. Overall it appeared to be in very nice condition, a broken rear body mount and a little grazing across the rain gutter. Upon further inspection there was also a crack across the roof into the windscreen aperture, another big crack across the rear of the cab and a very odd hollow in the bonnet (hood.) The original plan was to keep it as original as possible and unpainted, but after weighing it all up the only way to fix everything properly and leave it looking as good as possible was to paint it, so, I did. I won't bore you with progress pics of plastic welding etc, but will skip to the end: and then just before I boxed it up Barney decided on chrome trim on the quarterlights: With that done and dusted, the decorating started. To ensure I didn't get the shakes from Tamiya withdrawals I called upon the wonderful Robert who very kindly helped me procure a few Tamiya trinkets. First up, some front caster plates for my DB-01. I'd got the rear ones a few weeks earlier and just couldn't let the fronts go untreated: There's more to come on this build, and the TRF201, but that's for a later date..... The other thing I've been tinkering with is the TA-02 I was building here: That lovely man Robert helped out again with my dream body set. The only issues I had with it were the stance, and the lack of detail around the grill and door handles (there aren't any in the sticker set) and having been constantly in awe of @Truck Norris's builds, I thought I'd have a go at improving things myself.... I mean, what can go wrong!? After messing up the first set of wheels, I got the second ones from the printers and finally got around to smoothing and painting them: Happy, I decided to model up some inserts for the grill and door handles: So, all that was left was to cut up a perfectly lovely brand new, rare body..... So far so good. Paint next......
  7. Hi, Would anyone in the US be very kind and consider buying a couple of little items from Tamiyausa and post them to me in the UK please? They are small, should fit in a little padded envelope easily. Happy to pay by bank transfer or Paypal, all costs covered of course. Thank you! Jon
  8. stunning build - really love this. I've really got to get mine finished!
  9. Even the background isn't the same! In the first picture there's a yellow bag (probably Selfridges what with you being from Hertfordshire,) and in the second one, that bag has mysteriously disappeared and been replaced with a Tesco bag and some empty beer bottles! Going to have to try better next time! Columbo signing off.
  10. I call fake! That's a different car. You may think you're clever in your shiny crystal palace but us normal folk know a fraud when we see one and I'm looking in your direction and am giving you the laaaaaazy eye. Nice try - but you ain't fooling this one mateyjims.
  11. I think this looks absolutely awesome @Aerobert - love the colour scheme, it suits the lines of the body really well!
  12. I just realised you can actually see the rear stabiliser hiding in the background of that picture, so I wasn't lying! I also forgot to mention I changed the motor over for something more in keeping:
  13. I had to take a small break while my credit card cooled down after the recent flourish of activity buying all this stuff for the TA-02, but now it's back to a normal state I thought I could sneak in a few more bits for it First, and sadly not pictured (I will rectify this later) I managed to get my clammy hands on a Tamiya rear stabiliser set, so that's now fitted and doing a magnificent job of keeping the wheels level on the shelf The other job I've been tinkering with in my noggin is the wheel situation. I've got a body set for this chassis already, and had some very specific wheels in mind to go with it. The original wheels Tamiya made were too narrow both in width and offset (really didn't want huge hex spacers) and they also had a big feature missing from them. That's all aside from the minor issue of being seemingly impossible to find anyhow! After searching every other manufacturer and coming close with one (but not close enough) I figured I'd end up designing and printing some wheels myself. By pure fluke I was on another website which had a picture of the original wheels and I realised they were 2 piece rims! I already had a set of split rims - it couldn't be that hard to make some new centres could it!..... Well, apparently I didn't engage my brain before sending the first set to the printers, as I didn't just get the size of the hex slightly off but majorly, so another set was ordered, and these fitted perfectly! I'd already painted the barrels of the wheels (as I painted the inners of the first set without test fitting them on the chassis!) so these inners just need smoothing and painting and they'll be ready for the body!
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