pikachoo-75

Just out of curiousity,do you think that the "winger" shell for the Boomerang,could have been the original idea for the BigWig? Possibly designed before MoonCraft and the 10th anniversary where considered? Also i was thinking,do you reckon that the name maybe started as BIG WING and got abit lost in translation? Maybe a new BigWig could have the unique feature of coming with a more performance motor (Tamiya brushless) and promote a newer racing pack (Tamiya Li-po/Life relaunch)?just as the original did. Its surely a model that would deserve something special,just like the original

also noticed in the pictures,that those FAV rear lights? regardless how you mount them,the light slots both slant one way?it looks like eyes that are looking down and to the side whilst im at it,anybody figure a reason to this. the Fav driver's outboard arm is glued on,fair enough,Tamiya make plastic models. but once glued in the seemingly correct position,not only can i not get to one of the screws that hold the cockpit in anymore,but his hand gets in the way of the bonnet fitting? I dremmeled two semi-circles out on the dashboard to allow for fitment,but only after i snapped the poor guys arm off trying to fit the bonnet. like i say,the arm kinda "fits" into the shoulder naturally and even the creases for the clothes line up? strange

the alloy roof is a splendid idea,thanks TA-Mark. and i like the simplicity of the single bend for the visor.(the easier the better as i can make a mess of most things!lol) im gonna try a carboard version and then transfer to aluminium. As for the front towers,i procrastinated on these for a while,i just know if i vinyl them,it will work out horrid with crease lines ect, and if i paint,it will get scratched whilst running and look poop. The alloy roof would certainly tie it all together without having to mess with the front? now im even thinking of making using a ball hammer to give it the "bump" of the Hornets roof? tho best stick to simple! Btw TA-Mark your micro Grasshopper project is insanely clever and unique i wish you the best of luck with it!

Thanks for the likes! For Callisr, i used a Frog gearbox as i liked the idea of metal sides to the gearbox,but more so,because i have modified the diff outputs on this one. The Fav/Wild One diff has been said to be a random design for reliability along side the Frog's. I decided to shave the bevel gears a fraction and use 4mm circlips to hold the diff output cup to the bearing. it kinda makes a one piece part out of the white bearing holder,the bearing,drive cup and bevel gear.and it reduces the chance of the diff gears spreading and mangling themselves. For GregM,i have black sticky vinyl,but im hoping to get a roof to ensclose the cabin bit like a Hornets,i think the Wild One roof matches the Fav's bonnet better than the Wild One's bonnet?kinda two pressed out panels. i am considering if i should sticky vinyl the front damper brackets or paint them black? i think the brightness of them doesnt fit with the black chassis of a Hornet? Im also looking for a wing to put on the mount above the gearbox,gotta have somewhere to place the "anytime baby" logo!

If a Sand Viper is to a Rising Storm,then i think it has to be a Hornet is to a Hotshot2. DT02's have very little in actual part share with a DF02 but the time line and 2wd/4wd equiv is there. By that thinking,I think a Hotshot 2 (rere Hotshot in "2"box art with dual rear dampers possibly) is the most convincing 4wd counterpart to a Hornet from Tamiya's line up. Beefmuffins photo shows the visual aspect,the timeline is ok and the "2nd model in chassis" element is there too. As for actual chassis type or parts shared? consider the Hotshot 2 as the Hornets brother from another mother? lol!

I had a totally random visit to Glasgow's St Enoch centre and saw Modelzone.bought some Tamiya spray paint ,then saw the Holiday buggy just sitting ,dusty on the shelf! i had a look,seems there are two? Modelzones in Glasgow?

Here is my project of a 1:10th of a 1:1 trying to look like a 1:10th? The idea is that the Fav and Wild One look as if they were modeled on a 1:1 Chenworth sand rail. My idea was to make a model that looked like a 1:10th of a Chenworth that had been built to look like a Hornet. basically it is a Wild One rere chasiss,Fav rere bonnet and roll cage,Frog rere gearbox and Hornet rere wheels ,tyres and decals. The drive shafts are Frog UJ's and the front uprights are carbon reinforced F1 fellas to remove the glaring white nylon look. The Wild One G parts are a nightmare to paint as they go "furry" if you try to sand them prior to painting and paint doesnt adhere if you dont sand them.It does say in the manual that they are nylon? or such and i wondered why Tamiya didnt just make a Z part sprue with the Drivers helmet and front spots in regular plastic for the re-release version? oh well. Im thinking i'll get a Wild One roof at some point as it matches the panels on the bonnet and i know the Fav roof bar will NOT take paint for very long as it is quite rubbery plastic and it would just crack off. Heres the idea so far..

AHH! the Hotshot 2 really does LOOK related ,box art wise,and i guess it is an evolved version of the original Hotshot,just as the Hornet is an evolved version of the original Grasshopper?. The re-re Hotshot painted in Hotshot2 box art perhaps?

Its been a while since i was last on the forum,and i was quite vocal about the Holiday Buggy being an unwelcome twist in the re-re chain. But fate is a unusaul mistress and i ended up getting a Holiday Buggy DT02 from of all places Modelzone. I went in a good few weeks AFTER the mega deals on black pumpkins,violet racers and XB Blackfeet? 3's and the little buggy was sat on the shelve at £40? turned out it was the last one,the display model, and i was promptly offered 10% off! it has been painted very well even the driver had that creased/brown wash effect on his arms and only required a strip to grease the gearbox etc. I hadnt even seen the Holday buggy listed on the Modelzone web site? I ve had a go at trying to vintage-ise a Super Fighter G in the past so i havnt even attempted to chop parts to narrow its stance,but me and my 4yr old nephew had a blast running it with its 380 motor in the park and im converted to its wide boy look and even LOVE the pogo stick dampers! the 380 speed is perfect to allow you to watch the suspension following the ground with a kinda realistic bounce. its a buggy that really grows on you for simple driving fun.

I hear you with the modding part,my TT01 was bought as parts for a "fun car".im sure it was around the £30 mark.I then spent more than that on Tamiya's Countach shell alone? then the dampers,drive line,carbon top brace....i must be mad! lol!

to be fair,the plastic driveshafts and diff outputs are ok.the centre prop?i replaced it with Tamiya's alloy set in my TT01 so i cant comment on that,but i have heard the standard plastic prop being refered to as "a rattly banana". What i always found a puzzle is why were these designs introduced? I have a TT01 and a Holiday Buggy DT02 and the plastic drive line requires quite alot of new components to replace the normal all metal set up. the cast diff spider gears have an oblong centre point instead of splined,to fit to the oblong pressed diff out drive cup,that takes a HUGE diameter plastic dogbone end. Tamiya however do a metal hop up (not sure im comfortable calling something so basic a hop up) diff output with oblong insert so you can atleast move to metal dogbones/wheel axles or UJ's or just use splined spider gears that come with EVERY other Tamiya gear diff. Maybe Tamiya wish to move away from seperate diff outputs in their cars as alot of Tamiya's ball diffs feature the design of diff outs being one (or two) piece to the diff itself. The move to all plastic may be the least cost option for their entry level stuff?

I think the TB models have the benefit of the suspension arms attach to the chassis via pins and blocks,same as most "racer" brands.the TT chassis just have a purely moulded plastic arm that is held by the gearbox sides. The block and pin allows for caster and inboard toe adjustments,the TT approach allows for your gearbox to be split in two if you clip a kerb! lol!

My second Tamiya ever was a Terra-SCORCHER and it was like a pre-hopped up Thundershot type kit.It came ballraced,4 yellow CVA's,adjustable upper arms (with Egress 6mm blue connectors) front and rear anti-roll bars and front universal joint drive shafts.(and unusual rear wing) Then i noticed the TERRA-conqueror...that is like a pre-hopped up Manta Ray.same kind of spec. Then this? the Nova-SCORCHER,its certainly got the box art apperance as a nod to the Terra Scorcher so i kind of expected a hopped up TT02B straight off the bat? I figured that the DF02 models had set the precedent and this may have been to set the DF02 replacement bar alittle higher? But this new Scorcher is the basic entry level of entry level.no adjustable bits other than oil dampers?(atleast better than TT01 twist n fit shocks). I feel if Tamiya could perfect plastic springs and screws then the TT01/02/B would come with them? This new Nova Scorcher seems more like a Nova (fire) Dragon?and as mentioned,the hopped up version in the picture would easily be over twice the price of the kit alone to do? and that would place it in DB01 territory

I really hope Associated re-release that RC10! I had an A stamped gold tub about 4 years ago that had been retro fitted with a white stealth transmission.I really liked that buggy,but between a lack of non extortionate priced wheels and parts,and the fact i had little knowledge on them at the time i sold it on the bay.I always thought it would be a super kit to own if complete and looking like that photo!

I was remembering the "Avante front" Tamiya R/C guidebook,it shows how to fit the cargo van to a Tamtech chassis.along side the make your own shell that looked like a wonky delorean

of course they were....the dealers reckoned they could sell them £1000 a peice on Ebay!

here's one i made earlier, re-re Frog gearbox,uj's and 12mm hex adapters. mounted as normal at the bottom and held only by 2 turnbuckles at the top.very sturdy..dosnt seem it on paper but once built you'll see.

not long then...both 499 and 500. its quite literally anybodies guess what they could be

just out of curiosity. what are we up to ,model number wise ,right now? models confirmed by Tamiya. 584??

yeah it would seem that the re-re Fav could be altered to Wild One spec fairly easily. Driver,rear shocks are scarce if you want the originals,but you could use rere Frog ones.wheels and tyres should be easy with the 12mm hex adapter. However Tamiya know the Wild One is popular so i guess having the right parts straight from the box and having the correct colour molded parts (poss red roll cage etc) would sell the Wild One even if you got the Fav. i think the molded colour chassis would certainly be a good idea as painting the Fav completely black if you want box art Wild One wouldnt be very durable if ran.scratches and chips would appear pretty much on the first run? p.s i havent got either but i would love a rere Lunchbox,more than a Pumpkin too

as far as can be discovered right now regarding the original Fav and Wild One,it would appear that the main difference's are.. 1 front trailing arms..Fav have shorter "upright" area that makes the width at the front narrower.this suits the Rough Rider/SRB wheel and tyre set up Wild One has longer area to suit Fox style larger diameter wheels and tyres.alfettalimo has posted shots of the larger wheels rubbing on the chassis with Fav arms.i suppose the extra width could also be seen as a performance advantage for the Wild One.the longer arms are stamped "wildone" at the extra area so it would seem that they were purely for the Wild One. 2 Dampers..Fav has Springs and different front mounts from the chassis.Wild One has Hornet aluminium rear oil filled dampers and according mounts at the front.the rear dampers are aluminium oil filled too.not confirmed but im 99% the Hotshot original provides the smooth damper bodies to otherwise Frog orig "adjustable racing" dampers. 3 Bodies...Fav has plastic shell,good for detail and good for chassis strength as it screws onto the chassis rather than body clips.prob considered heavy and a hassle to quickly remove for racing? Wild One has polycarbonate body and roof..easy to remove and lightweight.paints on the inside so more durable for racing too. 4 Gearbox..as far as can be checked,it would seem that the Fav was originaly fitted with the "unreinforced" gearbox halves and simple diff spacers.these seem to have been altered during production life and appears to be a similar story for the Wild One? tjhe manual for each shows they are the same? 5 rear trailing arms..like the gearbox the droop stops on the rear arms seem to have started life in the Fav as round..later changing to oval.as far as can be checked the Wild One seems the same.perhaps it never had the round ones but the manual shows it did? 6 wheels and tyres..Fav has sandy coloured Rough Rider 3pc wheels and tyres 1.7"..Wild One has 1.9-2.0"? Fox style 1pc wheels and Tyres though in white. the re-release differs so far in... the metal mount parts are bright finish rather than dark. the chassis has a cut out for the battery wires. the side pod is altered to suit cut out. black plastic parts (roll cage etc) instead of sandy colour. front tyres seem to be from Buggy Champ 2009 (no sandblaster JR print) front arms are longer Wild One versions to allow bigger wheels etc decals for cammo pattern and design in general. Dogbone (re-re Frog) drive shafts instead of ORV hex. no mech speedo and resistor but the mount holes appear on the rollcage.prob 104bk supplied (were supplied) the first batch are supposed to come ballraced as a bonus. most likely... reinforced gearbox/diff spacers and drive shaft rubber boots (unconfirmed but not unreasonable) most likely...able to take the rere Frog aluminum 12mm hex wheel adapters at the rear for modern wheels ,like at the front. possibly more differences will emerge once someone (hopefully me!) has one in their hands to check over.

no prob,usually i find out where a left over part goes AFTER the bit it should attatch to comes flying off!...and into deep grass...and lands on a "dogs egg"

no problem,please feel free to add any tips to the thread!

hi Deanej10..that parts goes under the rear wing to attach it to the wing mount.kinda sandwiches the mount to the lexan wing.hope it helps.

after adding some thoughts to other posts i thought i would add some idea's grouped together so they are easier to find using the search function. recently i have always used washing machine detergent for cleaning filthy parts...but a recent discovery has ended that practise. ill explain.... i found out that pretty much every household detergent has lots of SALT in it. the reason is , salt is used as a water softener to help the water hold and remove dirt from clothes etc. this salt is the cause of chalky build up once your plastic or metal parts are cleaned and dried using Persil ect. HOWEVER...i have tried this... CARAVAN/RV/MOBILE HOME cleaner! it is designed for GRP and aluminium and doesnt contain any salt (tho check the label depending on brand) i recently got a bottle from a caravan dealership (it looks a generic type brand..simply named "caravan cleaner") but does state salt free. gave it a whirl and tah da!! nice clean squeaky finish no chalk or residue..including some old SRB pot metal parts thatr always ended up chalky. the second reason i looked into this was due to an incident that i recalled recently... i had a Terra Scorcher when i was about 11,it was my 2nd R/C buggy,i kept it immaculate..but i know fear that i may have done the wrong thing. i cleaned my Tamiya with household soap and MAY have stripped alot of the essential oils from the plastic over time. net result was a car that snapped in half at the very start of the first race of the evening! at the time i thought it was simply due to plastic not being as good as all the FRP/carbon Kyosho's and Schumacher's. but now i realise that i must have made the plastic very brittle.i noticed the same ,with hindsight ,on my Grasshopper 2...the general "shine" had been taken off the surface of the plastic in little pot marks over the surface... the GH2 however was wrecked by violent power more than being brittle! Last bit of recent info i found and tested is this.. polishing metal parts with..AutoGlym paint renovator. get it in Halfords,white slim bottle with pink (yes pink) label on it. obviously it is ace for polishing tired paint jobs,but its micro aluminium molicule stuff is also REALY good for making a shiny finish on Tamiya pot metal bits. I just span some old Hotshot damper bodies on my dremel whilst holding a cloth with AutoGlym on it...after a few quick goes it had removed some of the shallower pits and the flat surfaces were like a mirror! with extra preparation of deeper scratches and knicks it smooths out finer marks easily and shines already smooth stuff very quickly. thought i would share this info as i have been vocal in the past regarding the merits of washing powder but now i am a convert to caravan cleaner and AutoGlym!! hope it helps you guys in maintaining your prized Tamiya's!