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tonysmini

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Everything posted by tonysmini

  1. You may be better off fitting Traxxas ball ends
  2. And with the power to weight difference of Lipo batteries, silly things like this are possible.
  3. Once you start upgrading a Clod, it doesn't stop. Mine gradually broke everything (Clodzilla 2 chassis and metal 4 links), I locked out the rear steer and front mounted a beefy servo, and as Darat said, soft suspension helps to absorb the bangs. CPE do some strengthening brackets for the C-hubs that may help, or alloy tubes if your wallet is deep enough. Clod-talk and Clod-Parts are good sites to look for advice and shop from.
  4. One othe option if you can find it is the old MTroniks Super E-Truck, I run one on 4s with two 21t Titans. (Stupidly quick and it breaks stuff, but I love it.)
  5. I asked about this years ago and actually got a good answer. They were fitted with nylon bushes with the lack of maintenance in mind. Most will have been bought by parents for their kids, used and abused a few times then forgotten in a shed or loft for months or years. Bearings will rust and sieze, a nylon bush will just sit there. When they get 'rediscovered', no need to strip and replace, just charge the battery and go.
  6. Could it be the ceramic resistor playing up? It's been years since I used one but check the spade connectors are snug.
  7. Can be caused by too small a battery, if the ESC is a brushed/brushless one, it may be on the wrong motor type. (If the ESC is set to brushless and you fit a brushed motor, it does stutter)
  8. Over geared, it may have been okay with the stock tyres but Dirt Hawgs are bigger still. Your motor is really struggling. Try an EZRun Brushless. I ran a 10t set up in mine and it was stupidly fast.
  9. As said, the belt tension puts a lot of drag on the drive train, as does using too much grease in the gear boxes. I only use Tamiya's white grease in mine and only a couple of blobs per gear too. Check the pinion/spur mesh is loose too, the paper trick is the best way (put it between the pinion and spur, tighten the securing screws and take the paper out, you should have a tiny gap between them) Great for drifting, I love mine. (I have four in each set up.
  10. I'll get back to you if I get a buyer for mine.
  11. Grumpy, would you swap this for a TL01 with. a DTM CLK shell? Biggest mistake I made selling my old Blitzer.
  12. Would a set of barrel nuts from a set of hex extensions work? Either that or I f your Blackfoot uses normal dog bones then the TG10 wider out drives should give you enough thread on your hubs to work. (Part number 50808)
  13. Lexan shell, Sports tuned motor with 13t steel Pinion and a Lipo battery. This thing would just rip away. Even more mental with a 9t EzRun brushless.
  14. A 35t motor would be good combined with either 16 or 17t pinion.
  15. Or you can use the dog bones from an Ofna Dominator with Mr T's hardened outputs and drive cups. I broke several cvd's with my Daggers (twin sport tuned and Lipo on 2 of them and 0 timed RZ motors with Lipo I the other).
  16. There are some Nikko controllers that are small enough for youngsters, mine both started with these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/131631307475
  17. I run 21t adjustable timing motors in my kids trucks and 19t ones in mine, all retuned to zero. Just make sure your ESC can handle the load of both motors. The alloy shock towers take the stress off of the gear case, they tend to crack where the top of the shocks mount. The dog bones can be replaced with those from an Ofna Dominator, 1mm longer but much stronger. Use TL01 hardened outputs. 2.2 bead locks and scale truck tyres work well, I use Losi Rock Clawz. Get a decent metal geared servo, Tamiya hi-torque saver and the alloy arm designed for the M03, and alloy servo mounts will stop it flapping around when you steer.
  18. The 21t Titans come in forward and reverse timing, (and are more than fast enough in 4s), I think the 12t Titan only comes with advanced timing.
  19. http://www.clodparts.com/products/esc/12.html I could never find a manual for mine but the specs are here. I run mine on 4s with two Titan 21t motors and it rocks.
  20. I may have some, I will look tonight.
  21. A 35t motor will do just fine, should still be able to pop a wheelie but won't race off into the distance. The LB uses a 10t brass pinion and spacer, if you go to a 55t motor, you will need to take out the spacer and get a new pinion or it will be way too slow.
  22. Yup, those came with Kyosho cars, had them on my Mini and my Pureten Alpha EP rally car
  23. I run them on my Clodzilla 2 chassis, after a fair bit of digging around I found an old racers blog on Clodtalk where he showed how he made his from wire coat hangers. After bending them to the right shape he popped them into a really hot oven for 10 minutes then quenched them to get the stiffness he wanted, I found mine were just fine after bending so didn't bother.
  24. I think mine were M3x30mm button heads, I ran a drill bit through the holes in the chassis to clear out any burrs too. I'm away in Cornwall at the minute so can't get pics of mine until Sunday.
  25. Another good tip is to swap the four mounting screws that hold the front end on for two long M3 screws with washers and nyloc nuts and feed them up from the bottom and fit the nuts and washers to the top. If you just nip the nuts up, they hold everything just right, the nyloc prevents them coming undone and you don't have the self rapper threads digging into the chassis and causing stress breaks.
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