Jump to content

Aussie Top Force

Members
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Aussie Top Force

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 04/23/1975

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Highlands, NSW Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The only reason I can think they used the 211XM designation is that they are trying to be consistent with their modern buggy naming. With the 4wd they released the 501 then 511 belt drives. They then released a 502 which had 511 suspension parts but was shaft drive. Then they went to 503, which is an up dated 511. Maybe Tamiya thought this new car was like a step from the 501 to the 511, hence 201 to 211? The 211XM is mostly 201, other than its new chassis, which is simply a composite moulded chassis the same dimensions as the 201XMW. They could have just called it the 202XM?? All that said, the original 211X in this thread was a development car and never released as a kit, so in simple terms they probably thought to release it as a 'kit' as the name had not been officially released previously. One final difference is the car in this thread is a 211X, the new car is a 211XM. Whilst the name is similar two cars are chalk and cheese.
  2. Another great build! The 211X looks a little different to the other cars of the era, but should be competitive. the double deck chassis looks the goods. I have to say though that I do like my modern Tamiyas. Whilst I can see why there is discussion about them not having 'soul', as they are copies, the Tamiya quality and some little differences separate them. My TRF201XM (not an XMW) still attracts a bit of attention because it's 'different' enough and has a big blue bling gear box casing at the back. I also find its what you put into any RC Car and to an extent what you get back, that makes it what it is to you. I'm getting excited as we move toward our Vintage Festival in Sydney in September. I'll be running a close to evo spec original Top Force that I've had from new and a Re-re Egress. Sadly I parted with my original Egress in the early 1990's. In 2wd I'll be running an original RC10 Graphite that I've had from new and re-re Worlds Car. This thread and the 411X thread are two cars I believe never made it to Australia, and probably never will! Nice to see them in such great detail though! Thank you for sharing!
  3. If you can afford it, step up to the XR. Its awesome!
  4. Thought I would share my 502X with you all. Has all the mods in this build thread + 501 arms for durability, TRF turnbuckles and TSR Ceramic diffs. These diffs are buttery smooth! It also has a Fredericks lower battery brackets. I'm also using the 2.5 degree rear toe in block with zero degree hubs. I use it on outdoor clay tracks in 17.5 Stock Class (blinky). The last time I used it in Autumn I made the A-Final at the NSW Club Series at Castle Hill, Sydney. As you can see the front shocks have taken a bit of a beating! I quite like this car as it is a bit under-rated, as the TRF team drivers mostly stuck with the 511X. For me the 511X, looked like a great car, but the tracks I run on were not friendly to open belts, so I went with the 502X and have no regrets! To close here is good build tip: don't use Tamiya Ceramic grease on the gears! Use the same ball diff grease you used to build the diffs. The reason is that the centrifugal force on the bevel gear forces ceramic grease into the diff assembly contaminating the diff grease (found out the hard way). This creates poor diff performance and excessive wear, especially if you are using the steel balls. Whilst I now have up graded diffs in the 502X, I did build a DB-02 for my daughter. The original diff parts in the DB-02 are still in good shape as the diff grease has not been contaminated.
  5. Hi Cplus, I used to be of the opinion that the higher price stuff was always better, and would perform much better, especially motors and ESCs. Recently I had an LRP SXX V2 fail at an event, to get my car going I replaced it with a cheaper Team Power ESC, that was a quarter of the price from a spare car I had with me (spare was a car I had for my kids to learn on). To be honest the difference in feel was so very little I couldn't pick it. I was running 17.5 Stock in blinky mode on carpet. Motor was Reedy Mach 2.
  6. Very much liking this build thread as well. Great photos, only showing the different parts of the build. The whole car isn't revealed to the final post! Builds the anticipation, good work and keep it coming!
  7. I use Nivision stick packs, 45C. Note, at first they look like they will fit as they are rounded like the old Tamiya Stick packs, but they are 3mm too long. So to fit them I opened up the whole on the top and bottom plates for the forward support post. I elongated the whole to enable the post to be moved forward 3mm to accommodate the batteries. I have since learned there are stick pack lipos out there that are 'standard' stick pack dimensions. if you can get these then you won't have to mod anything.
  8. I run a re-re Egress on a dirt (clay) track at vintage events. The track is not 'sugared'. I find the Egress handles better on the dirt with the locked centre. The only time you would run the one way is on high grip track where you could brake and not loose the rear end. Just a note. The diff rings in the set (i'm assuming they are same as Egress) where not finished the best they could be. Your diffs will perform better and longer if you take some time to properly polish the diff rings. YR makes a kit for this. The other thing to do is replace the steal balls with TRF Ceramic ones. They greatly improve the life of the ball diffs as well. I don't have them in my Egress yet, but I do run the Ceramics in my 201XM on carpet track and they are going great guns. I rebuilt the diff in the 201XM after 4 visits to the carpet venue, which included plenty of practice runs each visit. Whilst the grease needed replacing, no parts were replaced. The diff was still smooth, just like a new one. I cannot say the same for the diffs in the Egress, which keep getting notchier as the steel balls wear.
  9. Its really coming along nice now. It cool to be able to read such a thread, and that such a car can now shared with us all. Where do the pink wheels come from? Can we still get them? They would look cool on my Top Force!
  10. According to a Blog I read on the TRF site (i think it was that one) the extra 5 degree version helps create more rear end grip as the extra kick up aids in rearward weight transfer. Hence on blue groove, if you already have plenty of rear grip and are looking for more front grip, use the weight block with standard kick up. if the track is loose and you have problems with rear traction then the extra 5 degrees may help. For lots of TRF 201 setups and information this is a good resource: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/SetupSheetsTamiyaTRF201X.html You could read all of this and think wow I need to do lots to make this car work, but you don't! I have TRF 201s in standard, XR and XM configurations. I use the standard weight block. Your biggest tuning friends are shock oil, springs and tires in combination with the weight of the car (depending on your battery). Get these thing in tune with your track and you'll be having fun!
  11. This thread is great! I remember looking at the pictures of the 411X and wondering when we would see the new "Evolution" from Tamiya, but it never came. My favourite RC Mags were always Radio Race Car, but in Australia they would be some months old by the time we got them. I was one of few who raced a Top Force in NSW Australia back in the day! Now they are quite popular at vintage meets. This 411X is like a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, bit like Jamie Booth's Egress that was recently resurrected! Liking the RC retro revitalisation and the fact that I can now see these cars in detail!
×
×
  • Create New...