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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. I´ve tried out quite the same last week on my Avante 2001 build, to get also the possibility to bottom out in front, without changing shock mount positions. The newer CVA´s have a more compact style. So compressed length is Shorter. With a different Piston rod with Shorter length of the lower thread, you can build the without flange nut. So more down travel. (did that already on my Monster beetle runner to increase front axle stroke). On my Avante 2001 runner I´m testing also the possibility to leave out the diaphragm completely, to be able to use longer rods for more droop at the same time. Want to come to High cap-mounted complete axle stroke of my Vanquish, without using high caps. So in fact these are then built as aeration dampers like on the Dyna Storm or on more modern buggies using the Buggy aeration dampers. You just have to cut the inner part of the diaphragms out, and just use the outer O-ring shape as a sealing. To get a super smooth friction behaviour, I also want to use TRF Teflon Pistons and higher quality O-rings from Revolution racing. Shall be a nice "sleeper" Avante, which is more than it seems...
  2. I hope for MCI Jumping again into Black Friday, hopefully 10% off on all orders… Need some Astute stickers.
  3. Then Tb05 Pro is the choice. After some time you can take it out of the box and rebuild to another motor position layout.
  4. Very enjoyable Video from Pinto Jenny, really cool to see his and your cars in action! I have to admit, I also found the Fiat Panda from Pinto upper cool, never thought that somebody in US knows about These tiny European 4WD... All the best for the repair on the Jeep, Matthias
  5. Not to Forget is the push rod length. Can make also a big difference in progressivity and feeling. On my TB03 R I liked the IFS Setup back in the day, although you have to think a bit more when using it in racing. But it was never that bad, as some people said. Just Maybe to complicated for some guys...
  6. A typical example is the Monster Beetle suspension. No droop by super hard springs in rear, front also too stiff. On my tuned MB I have Top force rear springs in rear, which is really soft but gives good droop. Combined with tuned CVA s in soft Setup the thing is a new car. It soaks up bumpy tracks really well, I like to watch it move. About axle weights: I think they really can help. Liked mine in my M06 R on low grip tracks. And actually I Always wondered, why my Tuned MB was less prone to roll Overs compared to the one I built for my nephew, where I copied my Setup. Simple reason: I run full aluminum wheels from RC Lover. And this are noticeably heavier than the std. ones. Would never Change back, due to looks and driving effect. Dampers still can manage the weights of them without having the wheels bouncing around. CVA Tamiya dampers have so much potential for Tuning, especially when you have very old ones. Aluminum dampers are not always needed, especially when you want to built a "sleeper", which performs better than it Looks. You can check out some Details on my Shocks in 2 of my MB threads, if you are interested: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117370&id=34024 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117764&id=34024 Very cool thread, will follow up this one... Kind regards, Matthias
  7. Perfect application! Never thought about that during our last Endurance race. But next time...
  8. Yes, I found it very useful, especially when equipping a new car and found a Setup for electronics, gearing and everything. When you are finished, you can for sure built out the sensors when doing the real racing. But the Sanwa sensors or Yeah racing sensors for the sanwas are neither very expensive nor add any noticeable weight. And most modern race Chassis are anyway much too light and cry for additional weight blocks in most classes...
  9. Hi Nobby, When purchasing my Sanwa MT4, it came with telemetry sensors for rpm and temperature. I was curious, and tried it during some races in my TB03R , as we had to use LRP X12 engines in our regulations. These first motors were famous for getting too hot and loose magnetic field, especially the first series. So I applied the temperature sensor on the motor and adjusted the transmitter to give a warning above a certain motor temp. That helped me during training, when it´s easy to go above 5 min. race time and driving the engine too hot. So far, this was quite a useful feature to me at that time... Br, Matthias
  10. Another method could be to form and sculpture the part quickly from a styropor/ foam block. Then coat with thin layers of glassfiber layer or fleece and epoxy, to get the shape. After drying, soak the foam with nitro solvent, and you get an airflow channel, when the foam is dissolved. Of course a very oldschool method, but could give a good result for the purpose… And for the pro´s it could be done from carbonfibre, too.
  11. Following this thread with interest! Still my favorite Tamiya 2WD Buggy. And Nimrod was such a cool Company, focussing on improving it´s perfomance. All the best for the project, Matthias
  12. It´s really an 914 now... But no real time to drive at the moment.
  13. https://www.ebay.de/p/Graupner-Wet-protect-50ml-Feuchtigkeitsschutz-968-50/2255560184?iid=201314546303&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-134425-41852-0&mkcid=2&itemid=201314546303&targetid=516711886960&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9042762&poi=&campaignid=1794477010&mkgroupid=68164081406&rlsatarget=aud-495842438326:pla-516711886960&abcId=1139186&merchantid=7765452&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl98rC8uOwlLJzRFshaRs5cKOwxJbD9BJmlhDt49XT2T7Qes59yaAKn4aAj6FEALw_wcB I guess the spray mentioned is called "wet protect". Really useful for a quick rain run. Friend of mine drove his touring car with sensored brushless esc in a wet race, only spraying the electronics with it. No worries, everything was fine the whole day. Really impressive. But you have to renew it from time to time, and it leaves a film on the parts. It´s even possible to spray an already soaked electronic board, and it will repell the water, getting the ellectronic to work again. (If it didn´t die completely by short circuits). In my M-Chassis, which sees regularly wet races, I use waterprrof receivers and ESC´s. (Sanwa/Carson).
  14. Lookin really good so far, especially with the manobet aluninum parts! I have to say a big thank you for the info on the slipper pinion! I purchased 2 and put one in my Vanquish runner, as it is 20 tooth, 0,6 module. Fits perfect using the original Vanquish steel motor brace. Had to shorten the drive shaft of my 13,5t brushless motor slightly with the Dremel, but no worries on a 20€ engine. I wanted it as an "overload protection", and it perfectly did it. Drove the car in June at the Tamiya raceway track in Germany, doing jumps, tables etc.. It worked perfectly all day long. Also no loosening of the centre diff. It fits totally inside the gear box, I just cut a slight edge with a knive to avoid contact of the adjusting nut. Real sleeper mod. Kind regards, Matthias
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