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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. From German point of view, cheapest was always Modellbau Seidel. Unfortunately, they do not ship worldwide anymore, as far as I know. Stock and availability of parts is great, and shipment insanely fast in 99% of the cases. Tamico is a liitle more expensive, but not in every part. Usually, I compare prices. Tamico has also more Vintage stuff, super service, and the Stölting brothers are real Tamiya nuts. Preorders are great. And they have included many other brands in the last years, which is great. RC Kleinkram is coming from RC Racing and started with Xray service, but had a jump start with very good marketing and service. They are excellent from shipping time, too. They make their own Racing series and built a huge new building for their shop. For my Racing actions I usually order from Seidel and Kleinkram, for my Vintage Tamiyas I trust on Tamico and Seidel. But summarized you can not go wrong with any of these 3 shops.
  2. Thanks Juhunio! It will be hot fights for sure!
  3. Completed my DT03 Garden Racer for some fights with my nephew and his DT03 today. Long time ago that I added a model to my showroom. I tried a Retro paint job to get a contrast to my nephew´s modern looking Racer, so I created a Neo Super Champ DT03 . https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=139022&id=34024 Hope you like it, my tribute to 20 years of TC. Greets, Matthias
  4. Hi @smirk-racing, I´m just not sure I understood you correctly! M05 is in principle similar to M06 from the gearing, so should be at the identical speed of M06. M05, especially the Version 2 with the more centered engine, is/was a great race chassis. I raced mine with brushed Cup machines and in the end with a Carson Dragster 3 16t brushless set. This gives very good punch and speed with the 20t pinion, as long as your tires will have decent grip. That said, an M06 will have a better launch from zero, but is also much more sensible to drive. You need prepped surfaces in my eyes, to not spin out on dusty tarmac. M08 is even more difficult to drive, when grip is low. M06 and M08 can be beasts on carpet surfaces or prepped tarmac, with a real good driver. If you are bashing around, you could consider to install a gyro system in the RWD M-chassis. That will help you control it better during acceleration, especially out of corners. Kind regards, Matthias
  5. Anyway, it´s an interesting design and I like it much more over the EV0 7. Total weight will be interesting. I´m still not convinced in general about the new Wishbone layout of the TA08, but I know the TA08 runs great. Just looks a bit clumsy with the upper links and adjustability is only camber. And the rear axle identical to the front with steering rods is nice for adjustability, but maybe not as stable as an classical layout. Actually, I really would like to test one myself one day. Actually, the latest TRF chassis were really good, and after years of Xray, AWE and MST some fellow racers in my area returned to some TRF´s with good success. So they seem to do their homework in Japan! That´s the good thing for me.
  6. On RC tech it was already discussed, as some classes seem to forbid non factory rebuilts. With the design of the Evo 8, you just have to let out some things and get some blancing weights. Should work fine, why not?
  7. Great looking 415!
  8. No, not me. Torque steer as I understand it is the reacting force of the motor spinning the case in the opposite direction of the rotor during hard acceleration. This leads in the end to different tire loads front to rear or left to right depending on which dierection the motor is aligned. The unequal tire loads can then give you effects on steering although driving in a straight direction. As this happens only on very hard accelerations with high torque involved it´s called "torque steer". I hope I explained it good enough / understandable.
  9. Don´t want to be picky my friend, just want to state that torque steer is not a special shaft drive problem, just the alignment of the motor in the car. And it´s totally uncritical to my experiences with stock class engines. Of course, in high power configurations it will have it´s effects, but both Awesomatix and Tamiya did adress it in their designs with switchable engine layouts....
  10. I´m still not sure, if there´s any improvements in the EVO line since the Exotek 6 Version 2. It´s so light and less parts than Evo 7 and 8.
  11. I haven´t checked it yet, as I kept my VQS NIB for the moment. In my runner I use a selfmade Shock tower from FRP. But I can check the parts tree for you, if I find some markings. But usually Gavin is quite accurate with his infos.
  12. I´m sure, the Turbo Optima comes with a slipper. Maybe the Mid, too? Could it slip there? Or is it noisewise definetely the belt slipping?
  13. I´m running 29/66 on a Carson Cup machine with integrated fan for a TT01 like ratio for large tracks. But a bit of dremeling is necessary, to get the space for the pinion. Not sure, if I described the procedure here on TC, But I "dremeled" / grinded the space with the motor and some pinions. In the end there´s no hole in the gear box, and you don´t have to be afraid of sand and debris going into the gear box.
  14. Wow, that turned out **** good on your Racing Fighter! I recently build a DT03 Black Fighter for and with my nephew. Quite cool buggys for the price this DT03´s. Just the Torque tuned driving in grass got so hot after one battery, not good to run another pack through without cooling. Guess a Cup MAchine with an internal fan would be better rgarding that... So I´m keen on your next shock dying session. Can you keep the Rit dye sauce for several sessions? Or do they boil out or sth.? And what to do with the rest, without coloring everything around... Kind regards, Matthias
  15. Nice set of shocks! Keen on your dying experience! And you´re totally right, Tamiya cheapened the shocks for the 2015 Re Re and used the Manta Ray one piece piston/rod. Too cheap for me. Although they took CVA2 shocks with collar sleeves and new springs, so they had some thoughts. (But the wrong ones). Totally weird is also the spacers outside the shock body to limit bump travel. They should have put some inside to limit the extended length. Especially rears are a tad to long and putting pressure with the long springs one the trailing arm in static mode.
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