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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. If you want, you can also built such a diff for M05/M06 from Tamiya parts. But it´s more expensive than getting one from e.g. 3 Racing: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=130513&id=34024 Displayed for M06, but M05 is identical regarding gearbox internals.
  2. Same for me! As a kid I also raked my buggies as high as possible to get clearance and try to prevent bottoming out. But as you say, the car needs stroke in both directions to be settled, and sometimes it´s better to just let it bottom out.
  3. Totally on your side, Juggular, good Explanation!
  4. Yes, you´re right! As I bought my first M05 it was the R5 RA spec, and I used it as a sunday racer on rougher Terrain or normal streets, as the intention of the Rally cars is. If I remeber right, I put the gold spring front and rear, but you can for sure mix with the red one, to change the handling. I´ve adapted mine later on to onroad spec, as we started our M-Chassis racing class some years ago. I often liked the harder spring in rear, as it gives more steering in front. So you don´t have to focus strictly on the old rule "stiffer spring to the heavier side of the car". On a FWD, everything is a little different tuningwise. Just try out, what is the best compromise for you on bumps, steering feel, and driving fun. And the most important thing: Try getting an oil filled gear diff, e.g. the 3-Racing one for M05/M06. Bombproof, Aluminum outdrives with plastic blades. Fill with 20k oil, which will give you a decent limited slip effect. Car will be more stable on braking, acceleration will improve drastically out of corners. Especially on low grip Rallye tracks. Every modern FWD Rc Car uses such type off differentials for serious racing. Best thing is: It´s very reliable. During my mini racing Seasons with my M05, I only refilled a slight amount of oil before the start of the new season.
  5. M05 RA can be a great little rallye machine. The onroad tuned springs are a little too hard, if you want to go slightly offroad and soak up some bumps . I used the M04/M08 front springs for my M05 RA Renault 5, which have a golden color. M08 reuses it now even for the rear axle. These are even softer than the red ones coming with the 53333 set. Then I would use 3 hole pistons, and a soft oil, like Tamiya 200 or 300, something in that range. And there is a difference between friction damping and oil damping. The Tamiya CVA´s can be really built to work buttersmooth by using higher quality O-rings, like the Tamiya clear ones or something comparable from other parties. With only friction, you do not catch the chassis movement when doing bigger jumps, and you prevent the axle from starting to move initially. You don´t want a stick slip effect, but instead being able to move the piston rod slowly with minimal force. If you move the piston rod quicker, the oil and the pistons increase the force automatically. Doesn´t make sense to me, to run the good CVA´s without oil. I don´t say that Superluminal is wrong, I think he just couldn´t adjust the Yeah Racing Shocks weak enough for the chassis weight. There´s still the option, to enlarge the holes in the piston and find thinner oil, so to say.
  6. I restored some ball diffs for my older cars recently. In general, the diff balls often are not the problem, and can be reused when cleaned thoroughly. The diff plates are the key. But these can be sanded on a flat surface on some higher quality wet sand paper. Doesn´t have to be too fine, I used 240 - 400 grit (hope this is the correct phrase). Then I would look up the manual and rebuild the diff completely with Tamiya anti wear grease instead of the old ball diff grease. This gives a more sticky effect and protects the parts from overloads (at least in comparison with the gel-like ball diff grease). The screw I would secure with a tiny amount of Tamiya thread lock to prevent it from loosening during driving. This would be my first try. If it´s still not working properly, you still can use some new balls from Tamiya. The diameters never changed, it doesn´t have to be NOS Madcap parts. I think, that would be the cheapest route to go first, and something you can consider. Unfortunately, my own Madcap is gone after all the years, just some Tiny bits left from it. Br, Matthias
  7. Hornet or Sand Scorcher wheels would only fit in the front, in the rear the drive axles would be too short. You could use everything offered for the DT03, there are some cheap tires and wheels around.
  8. I use no spring, just a piece of brass tube (cut to small piece of 4-5mm) from modelshop (modelship supply), that fits snuggly over the plastic. Can make some photos next week. Glued on with 2k epoxy or what is available...
  9. From my experience with the cam locks, they only fail when the plastic tube, where the axle screws in, splits. Covering the tube end with a piece of metal tube even before that crack happens stiffens it all up. With that fix, you should have no problem to get a more durable runner wheel with original looks. If you want a more Performing runner with maximum Avante charme, my Avante ´89 upgrade with Vajra Chassis could Maybe be something for you. Vajra Chassis parts are cheap as chips at Tamico at the moment. You could also jump to the nylon suspension parts, if you like. Still very much Avante look to me.
  10. Sounds also reasonable to me. I haven´t used magnetic mounts so far, but probably will do it the first time. In Addition I think About a cross mount with 2 big L-shaped plastic rails shoe goed in the shell below the windows to stiffen the whole thing. Would also leave space for a little interiour / cockpit set (probably very) later on. I found now one guy, that really customized the kit a lot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV1gUY221oA&t=36s Unfortunately, he does not reveal his Solutions very much, but great work on the Tamiya kit.
  11. Now that the Tamiya 58668 is available for some time, I cannot find too many builds so far! I just got the kit myself, as I could not resist any longer to build me a nice Sunday (almost) scale cruiser. I cannot bring myself to use the kit bodymounts in the roof. First, because of the looks, second they are quite wobbly because of their length. So Im looking for options to make some more hidden mounts of any way. Did anyone on here have a brillant idea or is working on the same problem? Br, Matthias
  12. Tamiya - 0225035 should be the yellow Re-re´s for the rear. As you have the grey shock versions from the kit, you only need the plastic parts to get the Retro Astute look.
  13. You´re right, bottom out saves the towers. You just ordered the wrong Hicaps for the front. The Rere Hicaps come in 2 versions, as the originals. Mini and short. You would have needed the Mini set for the front of your SA, coming from the Avante 2011 Option parts front set. Then you have the correct Astute look with the Shorter tower, and you can bottom out without problems. If you want to build the old CVA look, you can use Tamiya - 9225025 for the front, which are the same Shock bodies for the front axle as the Astute had. (in yellow). They are from the Fire Dragon rerelease. Used them for my Vanquish rebuild 2 years ago.
  14. This is so sad, the the dirtburners site is down, there were some threads I followed last year, and it was Always amazing what Tom E.G. digged out over the years, even getting in contact with some of the old drivers and designers. But a Repro of the Hornet close to the old pictures would be really cool, especially when using Tamiya parts as much as possible.
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