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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. as the XV01 Long damper spec is just being rereleased, why not think about this. (if the Budget allows it).
  2. Great News Bugster Man! I knew you would find the issue, usually beetle drivers nowadays have a good hand for technical things, too. For your main gear problem, this can happen also during a hard crash, if the wheels cannot slip enough. With the rear Motor, M06 offers very good traction. I killed one or 2 Spur gears during races since 2010. Have an eye on the adjustment of the pinion clearance from time to time, that´s all you can do. I´m still not really sure, if the black reinforced gear set is really stronger than the yellowish original set. But for sure it should be no Downgrade, if you order a new one. My real beetle is a 1974 "Jeans bug", which I bought 1996 from the girlfriend of my mother. So I restored it with my dad until 1998, and did some Upgrades over the years. Today I finished my rework of the engine, which I had to tear down 2017, because I got some friction in the crankshaft somehow. I have new TÜV since today and am quite happy to have my Little friend back. Due to Corona regulations in Bavaria, there´s no driving around for fun allowed, so I have to make my run in turns and adjustments driving to shopping, refuelling etc. Strange times! I´ve one pic of my beetle in my showroom: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=120588&id=34024 And what is you aircooled baby? Some oldschool 60`s bug maybe, like the Tamiya model? Just guessing. Have to admit, that I like all beetles from split window to the late 1303`s. I´m in a beetle club since 1996, so we have cars of nearly every model year in our club! Stay healthy, and great to have a "partner in crime" here on TC, Matthias
  3. Thank you so much for your explanations and pics! It´s truly a work of art with the ventilated design. Also to swap the axial bearing to the front side is clever. One problem I had with not keyed design was unscrewing under some circumstances. In fact only some track experience can show the advantages of centre diff function or permanent 4WD. Would love to do those tests for myself on a proper offroad track. Keen on your track tests! Great ideas in this project, and love the Vintage-Tamiya paint job. I still have a wing with the same decal from back in the days...
  4. Sorry, just read that you keyed the shaft. Didn´t read properly enough. So you use permanent 4WD already... I´m not in the buggy racing business since the mid 90`s, but probably it´s the std. 4WD Setup nowadays, if a slipper is used? If you oneday show us the tear down of your invention, that would be cool. What I found hard on the Avante ball diff design is that the bevel gear position on the axle is influenced by how much the pressure discs are screwed down.
  5. Just a beautiful design. Played with the same thought and tried to do it with some Tamiya parts, but got stuck due to machining possibilities. Also the other tweaks on your Avante are so cool. Totally with you in keeping the Avante charactre, and not just doing another Egress. If the clutch slips, can the front axle rotate differently than the rear axle? Or did you design with permanent 4WD and just let the spur gear slip? My thought was always to let both axle slip to each other, to be able to take out tweakings in the drive train. (just as is intended by the centre diff) Hats down on your very professional looking solution, will follow this thread for sure! Kind regards, Matthias
  6. Hi Bugster, I´m on the same route and have a real (aircooled) beetle and the Tamiya ones since M02. First, you cannot really compare a Blitzer to an M-Chassis. Track width, Tire sizes and wheelbase are much bigger, so everything is slowed down on the big beetle. M-Chassis are small and have usually to deal with the same engines in a much more smaller chassis. M06 is one of the best RWD M-chassis Tamiya ever made, and I much prefer it drivewise over my M04 and M02. Grip conditions are really important. On a well prepped carpet track, the M06 can be a beast. On low grip conditions like on dusty, public roads, it can be a nightmare to drive, as every RWD chassis that lacks grip. Remember, you don´t have front braking on this size cars. I usually reduce my brakes on the Speedo and the Transmitter to be able to do some emergency braking, which means reducing speed in a straight line, depending on the conditions I run on. Modern Electronics leave you many choices like ABS and reducing maximum brake power. Even if you cannot reduce speed as effective as with a FWD (or 4WD) car, you don´t have to be afraid to loose the rear under braking. Always try to go as straight as possible, when you hit the brakes. Braking in curves will let the car turn in more, and will end up in a 360° when grip is too low. (Of course you noticed already) I fully agree with you, that your car has a problem always wanting to turn in right. The diff itself will deliver power equally left right on the outdrives with the standard design. So you could further check, if the bearings left to right have an equal resistance on the rear axle, or slow down one side more than the other. Replacing moly grease with the Tamiya ceramic grease makes the diff resistance even more "open", that was the opposite you aimed for braking wise. I propose to use the Tamiya Anti wear grease. (clean out all the light grease before applying). A modern M-Chassis needs a oil filled gear diff in my eyes, which can be locked by using silicone oil. That gives you a constant working diff over a long time period without maintenance. Even Tamiya came to that conclusion and M07 and M08 use the FF03 diff now. I have it on my M06 as well, it´s one of the real useful tuning parts, that make sense. Leave out the blue alloy bling parts all around that often do nothing as reduce your wallet. Probably you have no equal static weight distribution or a tweak by uneven damper lengthes or spring preloads. A corner weight scale would identify that if used properly. Lifting the axles as explained before is cheaper and does the same. Do you have any pics of your chassis? And what electronics and motor you use? For the tires, I would propose to stay with the S-Grips on rear and the radials on front, if you still have the kit tires. Profile is the same, just check the lettering on the side. (Just saying, as you say you bought it used and it was a shelf queen. Maybe tires are some display stuff. If you want a good diff, I can recommend the 3 Racing one for price and reliability (even has aluminum outdrives with plastic shoes for the drive shafts), or you checkout my tutorial for Building a oil filled gear diff from Tamiya parts. (more expensive). Have fun with your big and small beetle, Aircooled greets, Matthias
  7. Hi Chip, I´ve no problem with using my photos of the lengthened Avante! Maybe you just leave a note or link of my thread here, that would be kind. Some weeks ago I also decided on my final solution with the driver Cockpit, which I now mounted on the chassis like on the original Avante. (not to the body like on the 2001). Unfortunately my clear coat didn´t work well, so I have to repaint the driver and don´t have any pics yet. Very keen on your video, hope you post a link in here. Good luck for the video, Kind regards, Matthias
  8. The TB Evos are counted separetly, so I guess TD means the TB06. Or he wants the TB Evo 8? I just stick with the rests of my TB03 Pro, which has evolved by Exotek parts to a TB Evo 6 with Exotek conversion. Still a great car, and I am running my locked TB03 ball diff in front as a "slipper spool".
  9. How did you stretch the pin spikes over the bigger rear wheels Thommo? Looks quite cool old school Astute. Does this mod need foams inside to keep the shape? Very cool mods, have to analyze if the C-part trick is suitable for the Dyna Storm, too.
  10. In principle I tend to say "yes". If you have some shock parts left, it´s probably not much more expensive, but the small parts like the guidings, bladders and mounting balls etc. are adding some Euros. As the Top force Hicaps (4xshort) are also available at the moment (search for "hi cap", 49€ for the TF set), I probably would go the route to buy the top force set and a set of the mini bodys. Maybe sell some parts from 2 shorts, like the bodies, piston rod, springs and so on. Guidings are totally identical short to mini, plastic parts tree with pistons and spring collars have different sizes, so you would need that anyway in the mini version. It´s some work with manuals and digging out the parts, but seidel is a quite good library regarding Tamiya parts. You search "Kolbenstange 31mm" for example, ad you get a list with all piston rods in that length range, and each part is marked with a listed of compatible cars, which is true in 99% of the cases. They have done an outstanding job over the years, in my eyes, to collect all these data and bring it into the web... Kind regards, Matthias
  11. Avante and Egress fronts are still available, even for some years now at Seidel. Sometimes the Avante tuning pair for the front was sold @30€ including the carbon front shock tower. The rears I built from single spares for my Avante ´89, as they were sold out as pair for some time... Just search for "egress", and you find the spare parts. rod guides are by the way 100% re re Buggy champ Guidings. So if anyone complains them leaking, he might have a Problem with overfilling, or does anyone complain about the re re Hi Caps leaking?
  12. Agree with all of you. @Speedy: Even Tamiya noticed, that the CVA have more potential with some hopups. In the M08 I´m still running them, as Tamiya tuned them for the first time (correct me if I´m wrong) with TRF Piston rodss and the TRF bladders. Smooth as silk. Was running them my first races with 400 oil and the kit pistons. Last time on black carpet I needed more damping without wanting to use 900 oil (which is Tamiya´s solution for compensating the greater piston bypass on the CVA plastic pistons), so I threw in some 3 hole TRF Teflon pistons and 450 oil. No need to switch to TRF shocks at the moment. If I feel the need, then only for the finer adjustment by the threads. Using the TRF bladder does 2 things: reduce rebound by less rubber stiffness of the bladder itself. Second: outer diameter is smaller, so you don´t unsettle the bladder when closing the shock and bringing air into the oil, which can be fussing on sometimes on the CVA´s. (But also on Rere Hicaps and TRF 419 Big bores) Well done, Tamiya! Cheers!
  13. You´re so crazy, found your beetle in the net, upper cool with those tires and rims. Wouldn´t have spotted, that they are 3d printed with the looks on the real car! Even the tire lettering is very accurate. How can you print it in this quality? Can´t wait to see your new Project on the Alpine!
  14. Thanks for the info. A little bit stretching in diametre should not be a problem. But as you say, it´s not sure if the gaps for the rubber will fit. I guess i have to order a pair and make some tests. I have the Manta Ray tires for my shelfer, they are the same as Manta Ray. Just wanted to try something more modern with more grip, hopefully. Also using medium compound for the rear and hard for the front should help to control the oversteer tendency of the 2001. In the worst case I have to use the Optima wheels, which are beauties, too. Kind regards, Matthias
  15. This car gets better and better, like it a lot! I read somewhere, that the Turbo Optima wheels are 2.0 Inch wheels, is it correct? Can you use them on Tamiya Egress wheels from the size? Or on the original Manta Ray wheels? And do you run the hard compound or the weaker one, eventually mixed? Sorry for the bunch of Questions, but I´m searching some more modern tires for my Avante 2001, without switching to medern 2.2 wheels... Have fon on the next rides, Matthias
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