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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. https://www.ebay.de/p/Graupner-Wet-protect-50ml-Feuchtigkeitsschutz-968-50/2255560184?iid=201314546303&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-134425-41852-0&mkcid=2&itemid=201314546303&targetid=516711886960&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9042762&poi=&campaignid=1794477010&mkgroupid=68164081406&rlsatarget=aud-495842438326:pla-516711886960&abcId=1139186&merchantid=7765452&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl98rC8uOwlLJzRFshaRs5cKOwxJbD9BJmlhDt49XT2T7Qes59yaAKn4aAj6FEALw_wcB I guess the spray mentioned is called "wet protect". Really useful for a quick rain run. Friend of mine drove his touring car with sensored brushless esc in a wet race, only spraying the electronics with it. No worries, everything was fine the whole day. Really impressive. But you have to renew it from time to time, and it leaves a film on the parts. It´s even possible to spray an already soaked electronic board, and it will repell the water, getting the ellectronic to work again. (If it didn´t die completely by short circuits). In my M-Chassis, which sees regularly wet races, I use waterprrof receivers and ESC´s. (Sanwa/Carson).
  2. Lookin really good so far, especially with the manobet aluninum parts! I have to say a big thank you for the info on the slipper pinion! I purchased 2 and put one in my Vanquish runner, as it is 20 tooth, 0,6 module. Fits perfect using the original Vanquish steel motor brace. Had to shorten the drive shaft of my 13,5t brushless motor slightly with the Dremel, but no worries on a 20€ engine. I wanted it as an "overload protection", and it perfectly did it. Drove the car in June at the Tamiya raceway track in Germany, doing jumps, tables etc.. It worked perfectly all day long. Also no loosening of the centre diff. It fits totally inside the gear box, I just cut a slight edge with a knive to avoid contact of the adjusting nut. Real sleeper mod. Kind regards, Matthias
  3. Still one of the coolest Hotshots here on TC. Just thinking, how cool it would be to replace the blue shock bits with black or red ones from TRF dampers. But still, a lot more sexy to me as a Supershot, because of the clean front end.
  4. Nice Story, fully understand your love for These Vintage buggies! My guess is, that the centerdiff was not screwed enough, and you should use some Loctite for the screw. Probably with the increased grip of your modern tires, you reached a level, which could unscrew the diff nut. I had it on my Vanquish one time, and rebuild it, secured it with Loctite, so far so good since then. Kind regards, Matthias
  5. It´s even better than I already told. The Piston rods are old TRF style, too. You can spot it between the grooves for the C-clips of the piston rods. There is a rough area to eliminate bypass through the piston hole section and get a tighter fit. I shimmed the pistons with 0,3mm shims, so they are without axial play now. Together with the clear O-rings they are probably the most sophisticated C.V.A. ´s from Tamiya in a std. kit. The springs seem to be from the M04 front, if I remeber correctly. They are the very week gold ones, and give a subtle suspension feel. Tamiya is really on the weak side (springwise) here, but with a hard damper setup. Very promising, if the kit setup is just half as good as the M07 setup. I´ve many fellow racers, which run their M07 kit std., as it is so nice to drive… Just need to choose a body for it to my likings. Maybe it´s finally time for the Porsche 914/6... Mid engine correct... Br, Matthias
  6. Nice writeup, but not giving all the Infos a real M-enthusiast will notice during building it! Just started mine today, first you all should now: You need a 2,5mm drill bit as stated in the manual. Especially for the rear chassis section, where the gear box attaches. It´s quite an important connection, so I guess Tamiya wants you to drill through and screw afterwards with the best connection you can get. Maybe molded holes would be not as tight here. Whatt I also liked: The diff already comes with the better, red O-rings, And the CVA dampers even come with the bladders of the TRF dampers! Tamiya really put some love in this kit. Just started the rear end, but also no need to rim the wishbones, no binding on mine here... Have fun anyone, who builds it the next days! Matthias
  7. And use Loctite for the screw end. Otherwise it can unlock itself over time...
  8. Totally agree. With the screw, you have less resistance as the diff can spin freely in the bearings. With shims, you preload the ball bearings and get more friction. With bushings it´s even worse.
  9. Great pics, must have been total fun!
  10. Didn´t spot your answer in time, but can´t wait to see yours! Your skills with the decals and TXR Imagination will be way more cooler than mine! I Need another Body set with some of your custom stickers... Have a nice weekend, Matthias
  11. One thought I had today while studying the Manual: The section, where the 2 Chassis halves are screwed together: The screw on pillars and the braces take a lot of room, that could be useful for better electronic Installation. So Maybe this gets the Treatment like M05, where many Racers did not attach the rear Stiffening braces and just left them out, and / or replaced it with some Carbon plates around the servo. (3 racing, etc.) I think with the carbon reinforced plastics the chassis could be stiff enough still to work without the pillars on lower grip tracks... Hope you get my thought, it came just to me while studying the manual more intense. Good thing is, stabilizer kit from M07 fits, knuckles fit, just the weird C-hub design, of which I have the same thoughts and already ordered 2 spare sets with the kit for my first runs. And raising the steering links another 5mm above the already very high M07 mounting points is a bad design in my eyes, as more and more bending moments get in the knuckle. Still no Tamiya Aluminum front knuckle for M07, which could also be made to fit hte M08. We will see, otherwise I think the car will be not bad at all, to my feeling...
  12. M05 would be same route as widening the M03 to FF03 spec. Upper Camber links can be quite easily made to fit with a turnbuckle Setup in the corresponding length. I´m also curious about the body: If the rear overhang is not too big, you could also consider widening the M06 in L length. Would be the same way as the M03/05. M07 uses different Wishbone Adapters than the old M03-M06, so this cannot be done easily with TL01 wishbones, and would need much more custom work and time.
  13. I´m happily waiting now. Placed my preorder at Tamico. They state the delivery date for 20th of June. 16 days to go, hopefully. Will arrive during my vaccation. Still no News from RC mart, or at least I can´t find them.
  14. MIP did a great Job on this diff, that´s true for sure. But my MB´s do it with their serial diffs, though. The old ones are good with shimming, the rere I´ve planned to assemble with old Frogshot method, because it keeps the separating forces inside the diff loading the screw. No need to reinforce the side plates. In my eyes, this is just the second best solution. The popping out drive shafts on the rere´s is just a symptom from the old design, as the diff does not sit centrally in the chassis. So one drive shaft has always more play as the other. In my slipper mod car, the 2mm widening of the gear box goes towards the shorter drive shaft side. So I never had a problem with popping out drive shaft, although I bought the rere cardans back when I built it. Soft rear springs help to prevent the pop out, too: The stiff springs need a lot of force, to go into compression movement. So the rear trailing arm does flex initially, and with the cardan being just before falling out, these can Pop out on a quick, sharp impact. If you use a weak spring, the suspension just moves and the cardan slides in the outdrive and has no chance to pop out. I use very soft springs in rear, in fact they are Top Force rear springs. So the MB gets a liitle sag, and has some droop into Rebound. This significantly iproves the ride. If you would see mine in a Video and would compare to the old Advertising Videos, it´s easy to see the difference. Much less bouncy... So, that´s just my findings, MIP diff is great, but expensive if you have more runners and it doesn´t fix the drive shaft problem automatically, when using the rere cardan setup. Keep them running, Br, Matthias
  15. I have a re-release Monster Beetle kit since 2015, but I just can´t get around to building it, just because my restored original just keeps running so well. Even dared to run it last weekend on the Tamiya Euro raceway in Sonneberg, where I was able to have a running sunday. It still got original plastics, except the motor mounting plate, which I replaced with a custom made one from aluminum and the connecting brace for the body mounts. For the front bumper plate you need a fix, too. The metal arms screw broke out even when still new on my Brat back in the days. I made a FRP supporting plate to take the forces. Otherwise just replace some broken parts with re-re plastics and you are running again. The front knuckles I did not brake yet, although still the old ones. You need a proper steering setup, to eliminate bump steer, and a good servo saver. Then this one is taking the bad loads for the knuckles during hitting obstacles. Be Aware that bump steer brings loads into the knuckles during jumps etc. that appear nearly symmetric and cannot be compensated by the servo saver. The wheels want to tear apart the steering links (and they do over time). And some weaker springs all around. You will not believe, how absorbing a MB can be with a proper setup. It´s my favorite Vintage Monster truck from Tamiya. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117377&id=34024 You can follow some of my fixes in my showroom, if you choose to keep it running... Good luck for your decision, Matthias
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