ruebiracer

Seems I´m not too late to the party. Thomas, we will have nice races on this epic clay track with each other. For me, winning is not the main intention, and I´m no real offroad driver since childhood, only onroad hobbyist. Trying to be a gentleman driver and just enjoy running old Tamiyas on a absolute fun track and try my best to get a decent result. For me in this Vintage Tamiya meet show has the priority before absolute performance. We have to count, how many drivers from TC we have now there with a Dyna Blaster in the truck class? Will @Davidsen also join the EDC event?

That is so kind of you Bertin, you and the whole EDC team helped us being new to your track so much and everyone else, I guess Jun will have the same fun there. . Of course you need a truck class now for the Vintage race, "return of invest" is the key in modern business! You really made a bargain for the shelf, but as you say the money pit is the upgrades to save the precious old parts and iron out some minor flaws. Will follow your thread for sure.

Well, my friend Sebastian was leaking me some facebook news, that my brother in 4WD VQS law gave his starting place to Jun Watanabe himself and jumped on the Dyna Blaster train as emergency plan!! So my best bet is @bsy2010 aka Bertin is collecting stuff!? Bertin, sham to loose you in 4WD, but good you return in the truck class.

Thanks for your like Tom, wanted to do something more in Dyna Storm style. The Blaster has some budget solutions compared to it, which are for me the CVA shocks and the front and rear upper chassis parts. With the cutted Aluminum plate and the carbon brace it´s only 4gr. more weight than the plastic cover, but much more rigid. As the lower plate in carbon is also lighter than the original, the updates lower the weight by ca. 5gr.. You made me this great front brace ala DS, too, but I will fit it after the Vintage race to keep it more serial looking. I don´t want to get in discussions with the regulations of TOC, of what is an integral part of the chassis or not.

Very nice idea for the paint job @wtcc5. It looks **** sexy, that thing.

As the ESC was coming in, too, I had to make a trial fit now, with a Training Lipo Stickpack and the HW ESC. For the race itself, I will use a shorty Lipo as the previous owner Marc in last years race in Kinzigtal. I favored the position nearer to the motor to not use longer wiring than necessary. COG is no issue for me, this beast is so wide. Haven´t seen a Blaster flipping sideways on the track last year. I decided on 3,5mm gold connectors as motor connectors for a possible switch of the Torque tuned without the soldering iron. If the wires would have been long enough, I probably would have soldered them directly to the motor. But this way it looked practically to me. The Tamiya connector for the battery was cut off and thrown in the garbage directly. XT 60 was put on to fit to my Lipo stickpacks I have for racing in our race series. For the shorty, an adapter is being used. I decided on a Ruddog Shorty with HV spec, that will be loaded up to 8,4V. I use these shorties in my Sand Scorcher runner and in a TA runner, so tried to reuse my stuff also for the TOC cars. So, this looks already quite sorted: A foam block closes the gap, the receiver was fitted beneath and the ESC RX wire was shortened and newly crimped with a fresh connector. The battery clamp was stolen again from my Wrenchdog MID motor Dyna Storm. Tom, please overread this. I have an idea for an alternative solution already in planning. So to complete the rear, I took out the shocks assembled last time: And with them on, it´s a nearly finished rear end finally: Hope you like it so far, more to come soon, time is running, already mid of march. only 1,5 month to go for the Vintage race.

I didn´t want to use the rear plastic cover part for connecting the chassis to the gearbox, as this looked very worn and not so fresh anymore. So I discussed with @Collin, how a replacement could look. We decided on a recessed part, that clamps the battery in the very end only, as the original plastic cover: In the meantime I modified the rear shock tower with the carbon part from @Collin, and used a Vajra body post as plug and play in the middle. Sometimes the spare parts box is the key... I bought the Dyna Storm shock mounts years ago, when they were still available, so it really looks like in the Dyna Storm. I also wanted a solution with the HW1060 ESC before the shock tower above the battery, so I took a double DS part and modified it: Then turned it around and voila, completes the look with all the bare aluminum tuning parts for me:

Recently, a very nice package arrived from @Collin: So I started end of last week to continue with Vintage racing, although I had to prepare my M08R for the weekend of indoor Racing. Hobbies can be soo hard. As expected, the bottom plate is excellent and replaces the very worn original: This was really shaved off from the battery and the cross brace for the wishbone mounts. Guess the battery shaved off nearly 1 mm in the middle. Never saw such a high wear on any Tamiya FRP or carbon chassis, that went through my hands. It went straight to the back end of the Blaster to check the real fit: I also overhauled the wishbones, bearings and fitted the Custom RC wishbone mounts: So rewarding, every step: I already used Thread lock for the aluminum parts on the chassis, to keep the screws from loosening. Last year I forgot 2 on my VQS in the Tamico offroad cup, stupid me. But not this year! And then the best part, the custom Wrench Dog gearbox with the TA06 BAll differential:

Nice calculation File Thomas! As I want to stick to the top Force ball ends with 15mm length, I have to find turnbuckles with the original lengths.

So I will trust your research Tom!

The delivered orange O-rings ahd to go for some modern stuff from Revolution Racing supplied by Ruddog: Together with the rest of the parts and some oil, we have a nice damper in the end: The red oring I used as a small bump stop and securing of the spring seat. Another goodie arrived in the meantime: The car came with some wheels and tires in used condition, but one completely new set for some nice shots I wanted so bad. On the rear end, I used the original lower chassis plate for the moment to test all the things coming together: The custom RC parts have an excellent fit also on the rear end. For this beauty, I´ll risk one or two of my spare parts still having from the 90´s: But you guess it, the original parts had cracks on the screw holes. That´s it for today, need to take some more pics first. My plans for the electronics formed in the meantime, I plan to run a shorty Lipo in it, as one was supplied with the car still being good for training. And I anyway needed to order a spare one for my Sand Sccorcher and some "Sunday" runners. For the ESC an Hobbywing 100 has to do it. I trust this ESC a lot, because I run it some years in our M-Chassis class in some very wet races. It´s compact and cheap. This project is anyway a not cheap, compared to my Blitzer race car from last years Tamico cup. But you all know it after all these Blaster threads the last years... Things to fix: turnbuckles for camber would be nice. Unfortunately, it´s hard to find some in 3x50 and 3x60mm length for a good price. So if you know some, please let me know...

To make the situation for the levers not even worse, I decided to stay with a Servo saver and for nostalgia it had to be the High torque Servo saver in white color: I´m quite sure, it must have had it´s debut in the Dyna Series back then. For the Servo I got a good deal some weeks ago, and the choice was my favorite bang for buck Touring car Servo Power HD R12s. It´s reliable and quick enough for me. So with some Xtra speed servo posts I had lying around, I put the steering in the front end: You already spotted the front wishbones I guess. Couldn´t resist to build up the front axle and began to tinker with the damper build, which is since years my favorite part of building a Tamiya RC car. not too many years ago, Modellbau Seidel in Germany still had stock of the famous sleeved dampers, which were special to the Tamiya Dyna Storm series. Since my original DS from 1993, they always had a special place in my heart. So I bought sets back then for my Dyna Storm spare parts box and some possible projects. As they were also the Hop Up Option for the Dyna Blaster, the manual even was giving the length advice for them. And this is how they look inside: Inside the blue anodized shock body, which is not identical to the old Hicaps, is a Teflon sleeve to minimize friction. Also the rod guide is screwed in with a Teflon guide block, much easier to open than the tiny C-Clip on the old Hicaps. Like later Tamiya TRF Buggy dampers, they are Aeration dampers without separated oil and air by a bladder. To build them, you also need the O-Ring for the cap seal and the tiny spacer for the rod guide. Luckily, I stocked also the rare plastic parts from @collin some years ago. I can only guess, why Tamiya left this design route again later. But probably, this solution with the big Teflon guide was not cheap, and the polishing and Hard coating uesed on later TRF dampers was just better reagarding costs and simplicity. Also heat dissipation is probably better without the isolating sleeve. The piston rods are long gone, so I settled on TRF 501 rods in the end to adjust the suggested lengths from the manual. Also the cap between the E-clips for the piston is bigger than std. onroad Tamiya rods. The original black Dyna pistons are a tad thicker, which makes them unmountable on normal piston rods... So by trial and error I came to the needed 0,7mm spacer from Tamiya Touring cars C-Hub spacing job. Thes take out perfectly the up and down play of the piston. To make the build not too cheap, lol, it had to be the Ti coated versions:

With so cool stuff coming in from @Collin, I´ve to continue with the thread! Haven´t been totally lazy, but plans were not fully working, so I needed to order some small stuff I forgot the week before. In addition, I was distracted by my VQS for the 4WD class, which needs some cleaning and preparing for this years race, too. With the front end mounted, I decided to replace the original body posts for some old TC posts, which are flexier, cuttable to length and much less rare. Just added them for the moment with some longer thread screws. Then I switched to the rear to check the situation with the width of the TA06 ball diff outdrives and the blades on the outdrives, which I want to use to minimize wear on the drive shafts and outdrives. Looks preety centered, and not prone to binding: After that, I looked up the rests of the steering levers. They looked still o.k., but I knew they had some hairline cracks. So nothing to trust in a Vintage race anymore. And dismantling them already broke an edge off: At least, the middle connecting rod was not the kit plastic bar and already a Dyna Storm link with the famous andexcellent grey 6mm ball ends, which I saved for my DS spare parts box. I decided in the meantime to use RERE Egress ball ends, which have the identical design but a black color. With some 85mm turnbuckles from the parts bin and the ORB nylon steering levers in 3d print I got back to a hopefully working steering: The 850 bearings popped in without real force, and everything felt o.k. screwing 3mm threads in the levers. I really wish custom RC would make some nice aluminum steering levers for the Dyna series. I´ve still some fear, that the 3d printed levers will fail during the race leaving me without spare parts or possible replacements...

Thank you so much Tom, this will be so cool. I´m about making an update to the thread today.

Tom, get out the brush and detail the shocks with color. Nice find, good for the shelf...