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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. Another thing I forgot: The Terra Scorcher looks supercool in the more bright blue, too! Did your dad use PS30 instead of PS5?
  2. Great story Kevin, from behinning with the old pics till today! As soon as I read Boomerang in your other thread, I knew it wouldn´t be a stock one for very long! Like all the mods, so cool. But what Kumamon parts were used? Interisting donor car! Wish you all the best for your outdoor session with Quincy! Hope the Boomer sucks up the bumps as @Quincy´s Evo!
  3. Hi Juhunio, in my eyes you have missed nothing here, and done the only correct way to assemble them with the existing parts. Tamiya did unfortunately not rerelease the original bladders, which were top stuff, and reused some CVA bladders, which are not fitting very well. After 2 or 3 misattempts I also found the only way to get the sitting correct is as you did it, lay them in the Topcap first. The Rere Hicaps are also not "vented in the topcap" as the original ones, so they have a little rebound. Guess, that´s why Tamiya recommends filling them with the piston rodpushed in some mm´s (see the manual). As far as I know, this is the first manual I saw, where TAmiya did not build the dampers with fully extended piston rod. Good thing is: You could replace the bladder with an O-ring and build "aeration" buggy dampers for testing, as on the Dyna Storm or on newer buggies, where nearly no bladders are used. Or you can drill the topcap in the middle as on the original Hicaps for less rebound effect. But I really miss the Original Hicap quality a bit. Rod guide is o.k. on the new ones with a screwed design, easier to assmble as the original c-clip design. But An original Hicap was so nice: Fill the oil, bladder on, Screw topcap on, very smooth operation with zero rebound (or almost. old orange O-rings were also not really low friction ones). But your project is coming along very nicely!!
  4. Thank you so much Tom, for enabling me to build this beauty! Regarding the choped off rear look, even that is totally Tamiya 90´s and reminding me of the rear of my Top Force Evo very much! Got to love both Dynas! But you really put so much design love in it, it looks totally Tamiya. And sorry, that it took the whole winter for the final steps. Now only the 5 on the wing sides is missing, have to cut them out of the big sticker avoiding the black framing. And as soon as it gets warmer, I will take the next ride in the garden to run it in, but with care. And I just noticed that on the rere the old spike tires are on as with the original. As these are not available anymore, I will keep them for the shelf and dig out some square spiked ones for the moment. If the cooling of the cheap ESC gets critical on warmer days, I´ll maybe add a fan under the body. But first let´s see, how it performs without...
  5. Thanks Kevin, for the kind words! In the meantime I put it in my showroom, but maybe I forgot to make a shot without body side by side to the rear motor original! Showroom entry
  6. Hey guys, some months and one winter season later, I finally finished my rear wing. I kept it more in the shape of "modern" buggy wings with quite high downforce. But an unpainted rear wing, no way! So I just painted the original Dyna shape, and left the additional parts in clear to make it less visible from 2 meters away. This way I still can cut it down slightly to make it less downforce. Hope you get my intention. Dusted the main body off, and made finally some quick shots from the mid and from my unrestored original from the 90`s. So you can see the different look mid motor vs. rear motor! Got to love both, it´s just such an elegant car by Tamiya. Hope you like the end result, Matthias.
  7. Great bang for the buck! Do they maybe have a fan mounted inside like the Cup machine? Can´t spot it from the pic...
  8. Those look very temting my friend! Do have some data, which r.p.m. such a 5 slot machine revs with 13t? Description sounds a bit like a crawler application? Thanks in advance, Matthias
  9. Thanks @wtcc5 & @Quincy for the details! That´s good work to source down these old screws. Hard to get by and probably expensive. Maybe I just store what I have and will finally use hex Ti screws. Time will tell. Actually the Alu diff housings are quite tough, compared to the actual Manta Ray ball diff sets. You just have to care, that there´s no play that let´s the outdrives wobble. Then they wear out. I used to glue mine in with Loctite back in the days, which kept them pristine until today. Using the gear diffs is for sure lowest maintenance you can get. But my TF seems strange, even the Aluminum gear in the rear box is in good condition. Only explanation I have is, that I used Tamiya ceramic grease from the beginning. Probably this I will store in the box and go full plastic as many here...
  10. So true Kevin, When I remember the price of my old Novak ESC, a Hammer Pro, which I needed to run my even more pricy Top Force Evo, oh oh. And the tears 10 years later, when this ESC died in a touring car race with my trusty TA03. It got wet and I stayed out too long, short circuit on the main board, and over and out... But so cool drive session with @Quincy, totally envious! Do you or Quincy have some infos on the Evo? Which motor was used e.g.? I still have my Evo in the future Restoration loop, main problem are some missing Ti screws. Quite hard to get these days, the Tamiya ones used back then... My Evo was really slaughtered by me for all good parts. Steering system went into an FF01, The high end ball diffs with the superlight alu parts went into my first M02 Beetle for Tamiya Eurocup. As were some of the screws going into my TA03. Buggy racing really died in our area at the end of the nineties, and everyone went into onroad. Offroad tracks nearby were turned into onroad ones. So I never thought I would have the use for the Evo again. Luckily I still was aware of hte specialness of this machine, and kept the rests of it instead of selling the rests...
  11. Sorry, just overread that you have the GT Tuned motor! But acc. to Seidel these springs are also recommended for the following Tamiya motors, incl. the UGT-tuned at least: Passend für folgende Tamiya Motoren: - Acto-Power Off-Roader 2WD (53122) - Super-Modified 11T (53485) - Super Stock TZ (53696) - Super Stock RZ (53697) - Super Stock BZ (53930) - CR-Tuned (35T) für CR-01 (54114) - Formula-Tuned (32T) F104 (54176) - UGT-Tuned 24T (54391) - FL-Tuned 30T (54392) - Acto-Power Off-Roader 2WD (7434006) - TR Torque-Tuned 33T (56526) But as said by the others here, you can use any springs of the similar design principle available by other companies. Just don´t go too hard and choose some soft or medium ones, so you won´t end up in excessive wear. These motors are some long distance runners with relatively hard brushes, that last longer and don´t stress the comm to much. Kind regards, Matthias
  12. Hi, in Germany Seidel stocks the springs for the Superstock, see this offer e.g.: https://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=7405079 Tamiya spare no.´s are: Tamiya - 7405079 EAN-Nr: 4950344750795 317405079 307405079 17405079
  13. Regarding the drive shaft mod, I remembered @kontemax Astute guide bible this morning: "TIP#6: You can “dig” the inner bearing housing with a simple tool like a step drill bit* (NOTE#5). This tool must be 11 mm in diameter. You must turn it with your hands only or you will destroy the piece. By digging 2 mm of space between the rear ball bearings you can mount modern CVD on Super Astute rear hubs. I did it on my Dyna Storm." featured here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=123146 He modified his Dyna Storm by drilling out 2 mm in the rear hubs of Dyna/Super Astute, to make modern CVD´s fit in his Dyna. So by @Juhunio´s testing with a 3mm 1150 bearing on the inside, 1mm smaller inside the hub seems sufficient to get the outdrive working in the hub, but maybe another 1mm could be needed for clearance, as @Collin suspects. Seems I have to test it on my old Dyna, I must have a Top Force CVD lying somewhere... The knowledge is all on TC, you just have to dig it out...
  14. Didn´t know about the TopForce universal mod! So it´s only 1mm missing to be able to mount a modern CVD to the Super Astute / Astute / Dyna Storm? Great solution! And congrats to the finished gear box, I felt with you after the screw strip. Sometimes it just has to happen. Guess everyone had a similar experience in RC life. Can´t wait to see the final result. Regarding the ESC: Maybe you can fit the fan separetely before the ESC, so it blows the hot air out of the back of the car. Could work with the height, then. Greets, Matthias
  15. Hi Whahooo, unfortunately the Dynatech 01 R brushes are very unique, and very different to the common brushes used on the later motors. I see no way for you. Is your comm worn a lot, or why do you want to use cleaning brushes? I just trued a Dynatech 01 R rotor today for my childhood buddy, so I ´m aware again now, how unique the Dynatechs were. He´s also searching for a brush set, which is very hard to come buy. Rotors can stilll be found on the bay... Greats from Germany, Matthias
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