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About ruebiracer

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  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  1. Re Re SRB dampers are really good actually. They don´t really leak, just 80% of them are overfilled, so they press out oil. Mounting them uside down creates an air bubble under the rod guide, which reduces the damping. You can test it by hand outside the car with your fingers. It´s like on a real old monotube damper without separating piston. But the y really profit from some better O-rings, like the clear ones or aftermarket silicone rings like Revolution racing ones. Keep in mind: the rodguide assy is the same as on the Rere Hicaps. And they are not claimed as leaky, are they?
  2. Hi @Boomerang89, I think I got your intention! VQS/ Vanquish is indeed a whole different story, when not equipped with the tuning double deck / Egress chassis. At first: Forget the Avante 2001 body, which you anyway not wanted because of the different shape! It´s designed for the narrow upper deck of Egress and 2001, and has special extensions on the lower sides for the wider lower deck (compared to origianl Avante). So these you would have to cut anyway, as the bathtub chassis of the VQS is wide on the whole height of the chassis. I checked cuickly with my Avante shell on my Vanquish runner yesterday. In the front area, it is possible to fit the body. But original Avante body is longer than VQS and Avante 2001 and would have to be shortened in the rear for the VQS rear shock tower, which is to massive to clear the shell. But that could be done with a simple cut of the body, if it´s o.k. for you that it will look a little shorter. The rear sides could be cut slightly to reach over the upper area of the bathtub chassis. I couldn´t check fully, because I didn´t have the time to dismount my rear shock tower to check in the correct position. All my stuff is currently packed away for our upcoming moval. But you brought up an interesting question, and I´ve never seen a Vanquish with Avante body ever. So it could be a cool project! Kind regards, Matthias
  3. They are a good fit, and thanks to the G2 Rere rather cheap! Good for a runner, as these last very long and have a good grip on multiple surfaces. Would be my choice, too!
  4. I noticed the same in Gavins video! Not sure, where he´s got the info from. I have 2 or 3 new G11 parts trees, but haven´t looked at them closely. Usually, these are marked somewhere with a material code. So if you see a PC somewhere, Gavin should be right.
  5. My camberlinks are also angled, but with a small spacer on the shock tower it can work. It´s super tight on the rihgt side with the gearbox, but can be done, at least with the Carbon / FRP shock towers: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/tcimages/34024/img34024_13201781631_12.jpg Hope you can spot it. I think I used M06 adjustable camber links to build my own set.
  6. No problem my friend, love all your projects! The Loctite 648 is the end solution, if you have new outdrives, some rubber glue or gel type Cyano should do the same trick and hold up. They are probably easier to get out again, in case you have to replace the bearings. With a little luck, we also should see the rare Aluminum diff plates from the Rerelease of the TF Evo hitting the shops. At least I hope so, to repair my M02 chassis diff. I remember you made some C-hubs with different castor for your FF01! Top idea, by the way. I have some TA04 or TB01 std. C hubs built into my 934, as I didn´t want to risk the rare aluminum parts. They also reduce castor. I just can´t remember, from which car they came from. But I can look it up, if you are interested in these alternative parts... By the way: Thanks to your TB03 thread, my TB03R is in it´s restoration phase and already saw one battery pack at the track. Kind regards, Matthias
  7. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=130054&id=34024 pic 2 is my glueing job on the outdrives. This Loctite 648 is maybe a little over the top. But it is superstrong. Think of it, if you need to change the ball bearings some day...
  8. One answer is for sure: Glue in the outdrives. The quality of these parts is far from that in the 90´s. But on my TF Evo it was already recommended to glue them in in the 90´s. Probably also because the Evo had the lightweight aluminum diff parts. On my 40 years 934 I lost the outdrive on the first run, so Im back in the 90´s and glued it in, before the loose fit wears it out to death... Cool story @ThunderDragonCy, And I think you are on the right route to make it perform even better! The reduced castor is definetely a hop up, and was done already by Tamiya back then, with the aluminum c-hubs Option part, that reduced the castor. Can´t remember the exact values, but it works. Just hard to get nowadays. All the aftermarket Aluminum TA02 bling has the stock castor values and doesn´t help.
  9. Totally true, probably that´s why in the Egress is one of the first ever Tamiya instructions I saw, where they built the Hicaps not with fully extended piston rod! This reduces the "rebound" of the piston rod. Original Hicaps had a ventilated topcap with a hole in the middle. They never had "rebound", even when filling with piston rod fully extended. The blue bladders were excellent and the ventilation did the rest.
  10. That was the "secret" Tom already mentioned, on my rather slow GT Tuned Motor Topspeed is rather slow with the stock Dyna ratios, so I used the double mounting holes of the motor casing to bring the motor shaft further to the rear. So mounting a 35t pinion is possible. As I had some spare gear covers left from my spare parts, I used an older one to enlarge the space for the 35T pinion. I just mounted the motor/battery, and while running full rpm I slowly pushed the gear cover in place: I used a white Edding pen for better contrasting: You can see the material taken away by the "grinding" pinion. I think I used a slightly bigger one or slotted the motor even further back, to get the free spinning 35T/126T ratio. No holes were grinded in the gear cover, everything is still nicely sealed against debris. It´s for sure also feasible with a motor with only 2 mounting holes, but that would require enlarging the lower hole slightly. So highly depends on everyone´s attitude about originality of your Dynas, and how far you want to go with mods. Hope this maybe helps for building your vintage runner @slydar Kind regards, Matthias
  11. Sorry guys, but very busy with work and house building! I dig out the pics today. But as far as I remember, I fitted 35T pinion with no mod on the gear plate, using a second motor hole, and just a slight grinding inside the gear cover. Nothing visible from the outside. ratio is 7,2:1 then with the original 126T spur gear! I´ll come back with the pics!
  12. @Collin thanks for the note Tom, I have geared both my Dyna storms longer because of my motor choices, I´ll dig out what I have and how I managed it.
  13. Awesome work again Kevin, following your mods on rc tech for some years now! Very cool, that you could even improve your V2 with the V4! I espacially like the new shock towers integrated in the bulkheads, adjusting the shock angle with spacers! But also the new hub design looks very cool. All the best for the next races and your customers! I could even see one of your conversions 2 years ago running an RCK race in "Hassfurt am Main", where I competed in the Porsche cup the first time with my TA02. And some very sad news beside: Tamiya shut down the famous "Euro Race way" in Sonneberg some weeks ago. So our classics Tamiya buggy run will never be possible there again... Stupid managers, who are not involved in the hobby themselves. They just decided to use the space for making the logistics centre bigger... Only positive news is, tht the local club could save the nice tribune/Drivers stand/pit area and is taking them to their new site some kilometres away. So this very nice wood building has a second life... Kind regards, Matthias
  14. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=124800&id=34024 This is mine together with my buddy Gerd´s one in a brighter red. In some light, it looks like an orange variation... MB can wear many colors in my eyes. Be brave!
  15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n23FV4w7zFE In the original promotion video is a yellow twin, that inspired me to make my runner yellow, too. I used back then a custom sticker set, though, with slightly changed colors...
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