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Everything posted by ruebiracer

  1. Tamiya gives rough ratios in the manuals of that motors as far as I remember. But honestly in the end, you can do this yourself, depending on the conditions and surfaces you run on. In the end the limiting factor is motor temperature and ESC temperature. You´re totally right to reduce the pinion size a little bit when using higher rev motors than the kit engine. I propose to give it a run 1 or 2 minutes, and check the motor temperature. If you can´t touch it with your hand after 1 minute, then it will probably get too hot over the whole runtime. Then use a even smaller pinion. Many brushed ESCs nowadays have also a thermal cutoff, when getting too hot or reducing the output power before getting too hot. If you get to this problem, go also shorter, or improve the airflow over the ESC, maybe by an external fan. And don´t forget, that nearly every Tamiya manual recommends to let the motor cool after each battery. If you don´t want to, make sure you don´t overheat the motor, by being even more on the save sade with a higher gear ratio. That´s about it (at least with brushed motors). Ask many people, and get many different answers, depending on the varying conditions everyone has to deal with. (e.g. high grass vs. open tarmac) Kind regards, Matthias
  2. Sorry for my smilie Fabia, but couldn´t help me, because this discussion will not stop today I guess! By itself, sensorless systems can do very well under water. Sensored systems can be brought to, if the sensorboard is protected/insulated if not done by the factory. I´ve done many M-chassis races with a sensorless Carson (Dragster 3) combo now, which is spec. by regulation (besides a brushed Carson Cup machine for beginners), and it never let me down, although we really dumped the cars in heavy rain. Hope that info maybe helps you, kind regards, Matthias
  3. I know, I shouldn´t write another post in this very political discussion, but: Agree on point 2: Most Brushless motors don´t look very exciting, such as the old Brushed ones. Probably that´s also why I put MCI stickers on some of mine representing famous brushed motors... point 3: depends on motors, just like on Brushless systems. A silvercan will have no problem, as probably most of the other brushed ones with relatively hard brushes. But I had a glorious winter bash with my Top Force Evo back in the late 90`s, and after 2 batteries of total fun my motor didn´t move anymore. So with all the heat and wet conditions, it consumed my brushes completely. (Was a Modified motor, open end bell design) point 4: Totally agree on the 5-slot (brushed) motors. But be aware, that 90% of the brushed motors are 3 slot motors to create higher RPM. So you can get 5 slot silvercans (my Dad used it often in his RC ships for that reason), but if you put such one in Grasshopper everyone would be highly disappointed by the topspeed... The low rpm control and cogging is also what made the non sensored systems switch from 2 pole to 4 pole... point 5: Nothing to add, if Vintage looks is a must, there´s no alternative of course... But now I´m out, have fun everyone!
  4. Hi Saito, actually I didn´t read your statement, seems I missed it. I was just referring to El Gecko´s post. I´m for sure a big Vintage fan (that´s why I joined TC), and would never sell my old left over brushed motors, they are just pure time machines for me regarding feelings, design, looks overall. My intention was never to tell somebody here what to like. It´s TC, a hobby and everybody has different approaches to the models. I´m just trying to base my assumptions on good arguments and experiences I made during club level racing since 1997. I also had quite disappointing moments with the switch to Brushless in some race classes, but over the years I made my mind and the systems changed quite a lot, especially in the beginning. Probably that´s why Brushless is nowadays a synonyme for plenty of power, and those extreme "bashers" driving the Arrma and Traxxas kits. That´s maybe a reason why many "Vintage" fans don´t want to look at this sector of RC, having the fear to destroy their precious Vintage kits like it can be seen on all those Youtube channels... You don´t have to be sorry for sharing your opinion, you always have good themes going. It´s af forum for us all to bring our arguments, isn´t it? Have a nice evening everyone, no matter what motors you prefer!
  5. I get your points, but they don´t apply nowadays if you refer to sensored systems. Yes, you can adjust a lot on some ESC´s, but you don´t have to. Same as on a very basic brushed ESC, or a High quality brushed ESC. And motors you can swap around in your models, too. On a Tamiya TBLE02 kit ESC you can drive a brushed or a brushless, that is a great thing in my eyes for beginners. I´ve also brushless motors older than 10 years, why should they die earlier and create more waste than a silvercan? To be honest, none of your arguments is strong enough. It´s no personell offense, it would be just too sad if anyone doesn´t give Brushless a try because of your statements. And that´s probably what @Nicadraus wanted to say, too. Just my guess... Give brushless a chance.... Kind regards, Matthias
  6. Totally true. Many people on those Vintage buggies just overdo it with silly fast motors. But for efficiency and runtime and cooling problems, why not use a sensored brushless system? I like to get second hand brushless motors from e.g. Speed passion for my runners. You get them for 20€. Together with a kit TBLE02 sensored ESC, which can be bought for another 20€ from some sellers, you get an ultra reliable, smooth and not overpowered setup, when staying with 17,5t or 13,5t. I´ve 17,5t in my Monster beetle and Sand scorcher, and it´s just great on the beach. 13,5t in my Avante 2001, no problem at all and no cooling problems, which was one flaw of the Avante platform running hot brushed race motors. Each to their own, I still have my comm lathe from the wild racing days and recently reworked some old brushed motors for me and my buddy, but I know the flair of both worlds. And a fully closed brushless motor is also nice, when fine dirt is all around... But price or sensitivity is really no argument nowadays, especially talking of sensored systems... Just my 2 cents. But for hazzle free "quality time" on those special days driving my Vintage Tamiyas, I am nowadays thankful for 2 main things: A good 2,4Ghz radio, and a reliable Brushless motor...
  7. Found it on the Tamiya America homepage: • Choose between rigid and one-way counter gear options. • Item 53791 universal shafts are used for the front and rear. These high-precision components provide minimal speed loss, and smooth cornering. • Includes 540-brushed type motor. • Includes NEW TBLE-04S ESC. Compatible with brushless motors (sensored) of 21.5 turns and higher, and Tamiya brushed motors 25 turns and over. Funny though, if the TBLE04S ESC desrcription is false acc. the Brushless motors: Who wants 21,5t or higher? should be lower? I mean the TBLE02 was taking up to 10,5t with some additinal cooling. But maybe I missed something here... But modern universals finally confirmed. Everything else would have been a joke, in my eyes.
  8. That is great info, if this is true. Would be a shame to deliver the new Evo with the old original universals. It´s a night and day difference from wear behaviour. Do you have a link maybe for your findings?
  9. To my findings, yes. I´ve ordered a set for testing, but as stated, they are not very cheap. There is a 3 racing version available. Probably, they can be found cheaper.
  10. Regarding your question: I think I have a 16t pinion module 0,5 on, giving 13,95:1 ratio with the 82t spur gear. Diff carrier is original MB (you could also use Frog one with 49 instead of 59T). Motormount is a homemade Alu plate, but nowadays there are some adjustable mounts around, which save work.
  11. Hi Killajb, thanks for your kind words! I took the pic of my showroom. It´s my Monster beetle runner I built around 2011 and modified quite a lot. I had a Brat as a kid, so I knew the weaknesses of the ORV´s. But I never had a Monster Beetle, which I liked very much in the Tamiya catalogues. I also never run a Monster truck before, only buggies and onroad from 1997 on. I was quite surprised, how well this ORV monster from ebay drove. Since then, I´m deep in the rabbit hole. That´s the background of my yellow one. It features a DF03 slipper clutch in a2mm widened gear box, Reinforced front shock tower, body braces, lower chassis front part. Furthermore centered steering, zero bumpsteer mods, 17,5t Brushless engine with a little timing program, Aluminum wheels, modified CVA shocks etc. You can find it in my showroom here: (There are some more posts for it while making progresses, was my beginning here, and I forgot to make a nice build thread out of it) 58060: Monster Beetle from ruebiracer showroom, My Monster Beetle Runner - Tamiya RC & Radio Control Cars (tamiyaclub.com) If you have any questions, let me know. Kind regards, Matthias
  12. Here you can see on the very left the nuts and the red spacers I talked about. You can already see the square battery pack a little...
  13. I use even Square Lipos in my Monster Beetles. This beauty takes everything, using a simple trick: On the chassis parts tree are the 2 red spacers intended for the old mechanical speedo. You take these and fit them underneath the left sideplate for the battery with longer screws. 2 benefits: You balance out the hanging out motor on the right side by setting off the battery sligthly to the left. And you can fit any battery you like!
  14. As expected by me personally, it´s already a very special Fire dragon! If you see a single WTCC thread, you get to know the perfection route... Thank you very much for sharing your procedure Kevin, maybe I´ll adapt the prefilling of the cap, too! Have to practice... By the way, what bladder did you use for the fronts, guess a non Tamiya, as it is clear? It´s a little bit sad , that Tamiya didn´t bring the Hicaps with the original topcap design. I rebuilt an original set of mine with new NOS bladders and new O rings, and it´s foolproof, to get airfree and reboundfree shocks. Brought me back building my first set for my Vanquish in my youth... Another question: With your laydown spring seat, do you have to space out the lower end from the wishbone to get full articulation? Guess that is maybe the only "drawback" I could find on your solution? Keep on the good work, Matthias
  15. Hi Kevin, you´re not the only one crying on the Rere Hicaps. I think I commented at least twice in different threads. Same problem as you: Bladder is from CVA shocks and not the perfect fit. Only solution for me and @Juhunio was to fit the bladder in the topcap, and screw down the cap very slowly, to give the excessive oil a way to escape, without compressing the bladder (and reducing the possible volume compensation). Otherwise it´s impossible to built them without air. Another possibility could be building them as aeration style, using an O ring instead of the bladder or cut out the inner part of the bladder. Bleeding I would do over the rod guide then. (In principle it works like building the Tamiya sleeved dampers then. Tamiya red orings are history for me, too. There are much better alternatives today. I tend to use the revolution racing white O-rings for my Vintage racers and all my CVA´s, as they are a very good compromise for smoothness, runtime and tightness. Kind regards, Matthias
  16. Oh, totally missed that! Was wondering the whole time, if there will come another load...
  17. Where did you get the Hicaps Kevin? Seem sold out since the first VQS batch...
  18. All of them are modern pin type axles, so we need to change the hex type, to keep that in mind. On my test fit with the TF ones, a touring car hex 4mm worked perfectly on my Dyna with the std. star dish wheels. No scrub on the knuckle, hex sits flush with the wheel hex housing.
  19. Probably the Hitech version for @Juhunio in blue: https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=33545&p_catid=461#.YJTOSsBxfb0 Square R/C Universal Drive Shaft Set (for Tamiya DF03) SQ-TGE-670SP
  20. Tom, this was exactly my task yesterday. Topforce uses 70mm shafts, so they should be 100% identical from length to DF02/DF03/TT02B parts. I ended up ordering a set Tamiya 53791 in Japan because it was a cheap offer. But you can get them for ca. 35€ at Tamico.Yeah Racing makes a version, too. And they improved their quality a lot the last 5 years. I was quite impressed with their Avante version, really bang for the buck and also steel version. Item for DF02 is: "G45 UNIVERSAL STEEL SWING SHAFT FOR TAMIYA DF03 TT02B" from Yeah racing. DF03-V15V2 Tamico doesn´t stock them at the moment, but should be available elsewhere. I opted for the TAmiya version first, for testing on my Dyna Storm Mid. After less than 10 battery packs, the Dyna disease already strikes and the dogbones want to chew up the outdrives. 90´s problems... Kind regards, Matthias
  21. Hi Grastens, one question: Are you sure Evert´s helmet decals weren´t already included in the original Vanquish kit? Don´t know, if I remember it correctly, but I have a strong feeling that they were there in `88. Need to check an original decal sheet... And yes, threadlock on some screws is a must on the Avante series buggies, especially on the front axle...
  22. And if we are at it, we can fit then modern CVD´s much better than the old Top Force originals!
  23. Regarding the Top Force driveshaft mod, I tested it in my original Dyna Storm today, and it is perfect as in the SA! Swapped the inner bearing for a 3mm wide version, and took an old TopForce drive shaft, and good to go! (and of course a pin type hex. It´s using all the space on full bump, so side to side play is nearly eliminated, but no need to worry in my eyes. But now I´m a little confused, as SA wishbones are longer? Maybe the wishbone mounts on the chassis and the diff width equal that out. No SA to compare to my Dyna... But I thought, I share the verification here... @Collin
  24. Getting better and better Tom, it looks like a mean race machine already! Have fun testing the steering links! Are the wheels printed in red?
  25. Great to see another @Grastens thread, hope you´ll be recovering during this enjoyable build! Love your review of the old time, which I remember still well. Long before the Egress, the top racing level buggy after the Avante was the Vanquish CS featured in the end of the Vanquish manual, using all the Hopup parts Tamiya threw out in a relatively short time! I remember the German AMT magazine featuring all the mods in a Vanquish build. To me and my Vanquish at least the Hicaps and the Racing steering set were my choice, which I could afford back then. (and that makes a real nice runner already) I vote for the Ferrari cockpit, it´s a really nice fit I also did on my restored runner. But space is small under the figure, so I propose to mount the steering servo in the rear hole for the old ESC servo with a longer rod, or you can use a low profile servo and mount it from the lower side of the upper deck (my solution). All the best for you, and I am keen to follow your tweaks on this Tamiya classic buggy!
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