ruebiracer

Thank you in advance, that really helps me out!

That would really be kind @BuggyDad.

Isn´t this a scale glass for your workshop @toyolien?

Cool write up, excellent trailer and car. For your grip roll problems on the M03 I´d get a smaller ESC and place it inside the rear chassis halves, to get some more weight downwards. M003 has a high enough COG with the servo above the engine. (which is a part of it´s charme on low grip conditions). You can also go lighter on springs, would use the ones from TA06 also used on M07/M08. So it can roll a bit more and slide instead of sudden grip roll. And for your diff consistency: Do you use the std. gear diff and pack it with stiffer grease? Because it´s changing after each run, as you write? Don´t know the regulations of Iconic cup, but I can recommend you a sealed gear diff from TB04. All the best and have fun in the Iconic cup

Hi guys, would need a little help from TC. Anybody has got a good scan of the Blitzer beetle decals? Need the shapes of the tear drops as I´ve got a rotten body to fresh up for Vintage Racing. Would be very cool, don´t want to order a complete Rere one.

Tamiya naming is maybe a little weird, as there never were long Hicaps, but Mini ones. While on the CVA plastic dampers there atre Mini, short and long shock bodies.

I referred to Tamiya nomenclature. TF uses short / short Hicaps, but not Minis in front. Internal spacers are used to finetune to the model and limit extended length.

As discussed in skom´s other thread, I say skip the MX6 for all times, through the reasons I explained there. If you don´t want to spend much money, think also about some used Sanwas. MX5 is fine, have 2 running since years for my nephew and my wife. A used MT4 is great, MTS, or what you can get. You still can get cheap receivers for them by DAS Micro/ ruddog clones...

No, evo also uses short Hicaps in front. It´s no shorter tower, but with a different design compared to the Top Force.

Will stop also, but yeah racing makes also one for M05.

Regarding your brown outs, did you try another radio instead of the Sanwa MX6? That would be my most important recommendation. Do not give up, all that hazzle will make you stronger in the end and more tolerable to some RC obstacles. When it´s running in the end, the fun is worth it.

For M05 there are cheaper ways to get a sealed gear diff. 3-Racing makes a bullet proof one, very reliable. If you are stuck to Tamiya parts, you can use for M05/06 my How to: 58460: M06 PRO Chassis Kit from ruebiracer showroom, How to build M05/06 oil filled gear diff from Tamiya parts - Tamiya RC & Radio Control Cars (tamiyaclub.com)

Great info on the diff mod, I didn´t know the R-Evo parts, but knew someone in Asia was on this design with a RC company. Maybe it was this brand. First custom parts wereold via Facebook, as far as I remember. But now luckily Xtra speed stepped in. I´ve already got 2 kits from them and one will now go into my DT03, thanks guys! I also managed with a little hacking to built sealed gear diff for all Minis before M05 to M08 using the Xtra speed parts. Will make a little "How to" for the Mini lovers...

chassis built from 2, very cool, didn´t know that Cool video of glorious Tamiya (offroad) past...

"The diff is stock for now, but will be filled with the E-Revo sealed oil diff housing later:" Can you give us some preinfo on that mod? Is it a tuning part, or a custom mod based on Traxxas E-Revo diff parts? Sounds very interesting!

Very cool build thread and good tune up´s here!!

Some people say, I think @kontemax was one of them, that the Vanquish part is the most durable one. I think any fresh part will be good and withstand 85% of all crash scenarios. Back in the day, I broke my Vanquish pa at some point. So I reinforced a new one with a pith of aluminum sheet, that lasted without breakage. On my new rebuilt runners I used the Pargu part first, really bulletproof. I now sourced 2 Xtra speed parts, that are nicely but have aliitle slop in the hinge pin. It´s no gearbox killer to my experience, the nylon wishbones and the rather weak aluminum pin will act as the "forgiving" counterpart. I´d say go for it, as they are really cheap if you want to built a runner with some "reserves".

@thommo: Nice solution, very clever. Do you have a little fear, that the battery can lift upwards in the rear without a little upwards stop? Jumps etc.? Thanks for your parts list, Matthias

Really interested @Thommo, have an old SA to restore as well as an std. Astute. Super Astute shall be a possible runner.

And do you know, if @Quincy and @Sgt.Speirs run the dampers more outside on the wishbone, like you?

****, so structural overload, so to say... chassis, too? crack in front I never saw this hard...

To make it more precisely: Were all the broken parts original 90´s plastic? This could explain the damages indeed compared to your friends. I´ve some parts on my runner Vanquish with original plastics, that disintegrate run for run. Even without crashes...

@Colin Tom, I call for Tom! Wrenchdog is needed!! Reliable Dyna runner is the task.

Do not exactly know, what a glitch buster does, but a capacitor can use every slot. just +/- are needed. If the glitch buster has only black/red cables, then it should be o.k.! Good luck you solve your weird problem in the end!

All good infos here. But maybe you should try another Transmitter and receiver before everything else. Although I´m a big Sanwa fan since my switch from Futaba when the MT4 was released, I´m done with the MX6. This set has definitely flaws. My buddy (friend since childhood) reentered RC 3 years ago, and I told him to buy a Sanwa transmitter. Unfortunately, it was the MX6. In the beginning, it seemed to work without problems. Later on, there were brown outs, car drove 2 laps in a race with reduced power and other strange things. Many fellow racers and me tried to exclude every root cause, different receivers, different ESC, servos and all you can think off. Gave him my old MT4 for a race, car worked without flaws. He had in the meantime for some more models a second MX6 and some more receivers, we used them too, but problems occured with regularity. He wrote mails to german distributor, set was sent to Japan for analyzing. Sanwa states everything works fine. We doubt it. In the end, he surprisingly bought again a Sanwa, a used MT-s from the web. And now he is happy since one year and competing in our local M-chassis races without problems. All other components stayed and work fine. So I highly recommend to test another Transmitter/receiver from a friend if you have the possibility. Could be time saving in the end. Kind regards, Matthias