
ShayD
Members-
Content Count
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by ShayD
-
I make it: Sand Scorcher Front post : 57.3 mm overall length, Ford XLT Front post : 80 mm overall length. The XLT roll bar is 80mm to the "shoulder", but there's a small 17mm post on top of that ... The ride height of the shell on each post is about 6mm less than the overall length ... to allow for the body clip ... Hope this makes sense ... hope you use metric ...
-
Sounds like JB Weld is pretty good stuff! Fortunately, I have the broken piece ... It wasn't a bashing/driving accident, I was trying to urge a slight twist out of the tower in a vice ... thought I was being careful ... and snap! I knew I was taking a risk ... Anyways, a fellow TC member says he's got a replacement, so hopefully we can come to some sort of deal. I think I'll still try and repair this broken one though ... Thanks for the help ...
-
Sounds like it might work if I can peg the joint thru as well ... Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it ... ...
-
I just snapped the front shock mount from my MkI Rough Rider and now I'm thinking there's maybe no way to fix it. Anybody got any suggestions? It's snapped just below the upper threaded portion, where the shock attaches. I was considering bracing it with tin plate ... BTW if anyone has a replacement please reply to my "Wants" post back on TamiyaClub ... has to be a MkI part (right hand)... :edit: Now I'm really annoyed because I just put the suspension back together, all polished and adjusted and it looks great. All the slouch has gone, the front end is sitting really nicely ... but the shock tower is bust. Arrrrrrhhhhhhhgggggghhhhhhh! ... Can't believe I've done it ...
-
Vintage Vs. Re-re Wheels & Tyres For Hornet
ShayD replied to Singleseven's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
I seem to remember the original release SRB manuals specifying to use silicon to make the tyres/wheels air tight ... it made the business of fitting tyres potentially very messy! Recently I was painting up a set of Super-Champ wheels and I came across a pair of rear tyres that were substantially more robust than the Super Grippers around these days. You could pinch the thickness of the tyre tread and feel quite a thickness of rubber there. They also have no hole. I've recently bought a Grasshopper with vintage Super-Champ rears and these are similarly robust. -
Just got my parts from RC channel ... very impressive, nice quality and super fast delivery. I shall be dealing with these guys again!
-
Nylon Rear Wing. They Use To Make Them.
ShayD replied to MAD RACER's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
You'd be surprised just how useful a crumple zone a lexan wing can be ... I took my brushless Durga to Goshen Off Road track (near Bury) one day in the summer, sporting an experimental wing I had made. My first "off" finished the experimental wing and bent my pretty aluminium wing mounts, my second "off" and a number of further indiscretions rearranged my mostly aluminium Durga to an alarming degree. Now, I know driving without a wing is asking for trouble, but I hadn't considered just how much punishment a lexan wing can soak up and the amount of energy it can direct away from the rest of the car ... -
Fitting Rough Rider/bchamp Shell To Super Champ
ShayD replied to ShayD's topic in Re-Release Discussions
ahem ... I now delare this topic officially closed ... -
Fitting Rough Rider/bchamp Shell To Super Champ
ShayD replied to ShayD's topic in Re-Release Discussions
So I wanted to fit a Rough Rider body to a Super Champ ... because I didn't have a Rough Rider in my collection. But now I don't, why? because I bought a very nice vintage RR last night off the flEaBay. That's the answer ... cut to the heart of the matter ... Scythe through the Gordian knot ... etc etc ... What's more it's coming from the small market town I grew up in, which means it's quite likely to have been bought, originally, from the same model shop that I bought my first Scorcher from all those years ago! Small world init? Oh, how we celebrate the minutiae of life! I'm going for a lie down ... -
That's the trouble with payday, OH YEAH!
-
I just ordered the SS box art bumper (nice how it fits to the shock towers), the rear suspension kit and the shockkit ... not sure why I bought the shocks, got carried away I guess!
-
That sounds like a good technique ... I shall give that a try on a spare shell. Thanks very much.
-
I've just been reading about "3M 77 spray" ... some guys using it to attach decals to their RC 'planes ...
-
I've got 2 SuperChamps an XLT and a Sand Scorcher, so I thought I might get a Buggy Champ shell to put on one of the SuperChamps. But will it fit the radio tray etc?
-
Not sure how useful this suggestion will be, but when I want a shell to look top notch, I use 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner and Polish. It's a multi surface cleaner and polish that gives body shells a brilliant "glossy wet" look. A quick rub over with this is great just before taking pictures ...
-
I'm thinking of experimenting with photographers spray mount ... there are two types ... replaceable and permanent. This adhesive is very tacky and appears colourless. If you can get the decal off the model without it deteriorating signifcantly, It might be possible to reapply it with permanent spray mount and then, as you mention, clear coat it. I have a March BMW, which mechanically is in excellent condition, but the paint is yellowing and the decals are lifting. I'd really like to make a thorough job of restoring it, but I want to avoid repro decals if possible. I have a can of spray mount somewhere ... I will try some preliminary experiments with old decals etc.
-
I have several cars lined up for restorations, enough to keep me going for months. But there's one question that stops me attempting at least 2 of them (Martini mk22/March BMW) Can I carefully remove the original decals, repaint the body and then reapply the decals? I keep meaning to try some experiments and haven't yet got around to it. So I thought I'd ask if anyone had developed a method? I managed to remove several decals from an old Frog shell and store them temporarily on a PVC sheet ... but it's the reapplication that's the tricky part ... fresh adhesive etc ... So anyone had any success? ...
-
Hi James, My compressor is a Cotech 777 mini-compressor, max output 68 L/min @ 45 PSI ... It looks pretty much identical to a Badger 180-12 ... I suppose with no regulator, I must be working at 45 PSI all the time ... maybe I'll look for a regulator I can bolt on ...
-
Hi James, Thanks for the advice ... Your tip about spraying 'til the paint the paint looks wet, prompts me to remember how I did things when the finish was sucessful. At the moment I have a dual action airbrush (Badger under a different name) with a small compressor. The compressor is a Cotech unit with no regulator, the same as the entry level one that Badger produce. I've been wondering if things would be easier with a regulator, but have managed to get along without one so far ...
-
Does anyone want to share their recipe for thinner to paint ratio for Tamiya gloss paints? ... I've been using 50/50 paint to thinner... my airbrush seems happy with this, but the finish often seems rather flat ... Any advice would be welcome ...
-
I've got a Sanwa M11 which has all the bells and whistles on it ... most of which I don't use ... but I've fitted 2.4Ghz to both my dragsters, just for the reassurance against interference. I can't afford to have servos jittering and chattering away, sending my steering or throttle out of line ...
-
How Do I Stop Tyres Cracking On Vintage Cars
ShayD replied to tamiya.mad's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
I use silicon grease after reading what 1:1 scale car restorers use on their window rubbers, door seals etc. You can use it to lube mechanical speed controllers too, which helps stop sparking, scorching and pitting etc. In the Uk Maplin sell a brand called "Servisol" for about £3/4 for 50g. I usually apply the grease to tyres with a tooth brush and then rub it well in. It's best if you're tyres are off the rims so you can apply silicon inside and out. If the rubber's already hard it's too late, but you can rejuvenate tyres that are dried out, to a nice supple feel. -
I'm looking to try the rear suspension kit. I like the way it has the extra articulation to lose that excessive positive camber that the SRB's tend to have. They're not cheap tho ...
-
This would go very nicely with my Camel Honda 99t ... I was a big fan of Ayrton Senna back in the day ... hmmm very, very tempted!