Walsall-Basher
-
Posts
65 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Walsall-Basher
-
-
I've bought some iridescent paint for a mini kit I got for my birthday. How many coats do I need before the black base coat goes on? I've done 2 so far and shell is still very transparent but with a light iridescent sheen. Is this correct?
-
I recently got a Novak 3S brushed/brushless esc, can run any turn brushed motor with the option of using up to 3S lipo cells. Think they're designed for short course trucks but working well in a touring car for stock racing. 6a bec too which is handy for using better servos
-
wait til you can drive a (1:1) on the road and you'll see how much fun lift off oversteer in a FWD hatch can be
My wee Punto was good for it on wet roundabouts as it had a solid rear beam with stiff coilovers on the front and a stripped out rear, even on mildy damp/fairly dry roads it could be tail happy an required almost full lock at some points
was pretty scary in a pug 205 1.9 gti too, i ended up going backwards round a roundabout once trying to snatch 2nd gear, those were the days
-
loved the bit with the dogs chasing and you can see them in the mirrors. omg giant puppies!
-
#400 oil is what Tamiya suggest and that is what I would start with.
what would that be in other manufacturers weights? ive got some 30 and 35 wgt schumacher oil
-
and dont forget the soldering work, no point having a great handfling car if it dnfs in the finals!
-
I'm pretty new to all this toy car business so bit of a basic question
I'm thinking about stripping down and rebuilding my 2nd hand trf415msx shocks. Think they're the kit springs so just wondering what a good starting point in shock oil weight would be. Obviously will be using new o rings and rebuilding as per instructions
-
so if heat is the issue that will kill the motor it can be eliminated and the motor wont die? --->
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/540-550-Water-Coolin...=item3363296e24
its an amphibious buggy then?
-
Novaks website recommend their motors down to 8.5t for 2wd buggies with your gearing. Any lower turns you'll overheat it, lose your warranty and end up with a scrapped motor.
I learned the cheap way about overgeared motors as I only fried 2 mabuchi 540s before I decided to look up final drive ratio on a search engine
-
a 2011 spec schumacher cougar sv
mmmmmm
-
you need to check the ampdraw on your brushless system, its usually in the packaging somewhere, but at a guess i'd say 4.5t novak was pretty high.
then lipo wise you take the capacity in mAh/1000 * C rating to get the ampage
ie 4200mAh with a 40C rating would give you (4200/1000)*40=168amps
not easy to find a lipo with these big numbers in a stick pack style but there are some on evilbay from HK, i just ordered one branded as a 'silverback'
-
What battery are you using with it? Would need a pretty big lipo with a equally large C rating I'd have thought?
-
1150 bearings are 11mm x 5mm x 4mm
not all tamiya bearings are 4mm deep mind!
-
its funny reading about another new racer getting to grips with all the pitfalls that can and most likely will happen! i'll give you a tip from my many weeks of experience...get some brake cleaner (used on 1:1 motorbike brake discs) or some nitro engine cleaner (same stuff) and get all that rubbish off your new tyres, use some tough paper towel or an old pit towel. i thought my tyres were wearing down (looked like an F1 car as you say) but its really just matted fibre and rubber from driving dirty lines stuck all over your shiny new rubber. they'll look brand new after you get it all off. then get some tyre additive to cure that understeer!
-
Has anyone seen these new budget 'bullistorm' systems on the bay? They look like reverse engineered, ripped off ezrun systems. Dirt cheap tho!
-
Also not all silver cans are the same. Plus I notice running NiMH batteries, ones straight off the charger are noticeably more powerful then one charged the previous day.
Going on what some experts on the silvercan are saying on another thread the newer mabuchi 540s are very much like peas in a pod. All pretty slow but very long lasting. The old Johnson 540 were a lot more hit and miss with about 5% being either dogs or thoroughbreds. So I doubt its the motor.
-
I'm a bit of newbie too and I had the same thoughts when I assembled my df03 keen hawk. Was all ready for some dirt spitting 4wd action and the thing went like a dead rat. Dropped a 5.5t brushless in it now and it's more like an electrified rat now =)
-
I've read that thread, all 100 pages! Good stuff mainly but unless you can either buy a suped up 'red dot' motor from the aussy seller on there or spend $1000s and many years perfecting your tuning then the only thing you can do is keep your motor in tip top condition, well broken in, super clean, bushings lubed and well heat sinked.
-
first attempt at racing this car didnt go well!
it came from ebay and had an 82t spur and 50t,51t and 52t pinions. the racing is silvercan stock class and the track is fairly open.
the first motor lasted 1 1/2 heats of 5 minutes before frying with the 52t pinion installed. the 2nd motor lasted about 5 laps before everything stopped, when i got home i noticed a brush lying on my floor that mustve snapped and dropped out! this was with the 50t pinion.
transmission ration for trf415msx is 2.187
so
82t spur and 52t pinion gives FDR of 3.45
82t spur and 50t pinion gives FDR of 3.59
what kind of FDR do i need to stop this severe overheating and keep up with the racing? been told 4.5-4.8?
have ordered spurs in 64dp of 68t and 70t and some pinions ranging from 17t to 23t
think ive got undergearing now tho with FDRs ranging from 9.01 to 6.47
any advise from owners of similar cars would be gratefully received!
-
Hi all,
As some of you may have seen via TC, i have recently aquired a Sand Scorcher. It is part fitted with a acoms AS-11 servo for the steering and a T2M Speedster jr ESC, but please can anyone recomend a suitable transmitter and receiver to complete the set-up?
Many thanks,
John.
go for a 2.4ghz set-up, you wont regret it. if you're on a budget then the etronix 3gxpro is working well for me. wheel or sticks, extra receivers are £20 ish
its nice not to have a 2foot antenna sticking out your models and the digital set-up options and model memorys are great to have.
-
Am I right in thinking they're 5mm axles as im at work and want to pick up right washers on way home
-
Thanks for the replies guys. Marston club looks ideal for a bit of Friday night fun.
-
Hi all, I'm very new to the hobby and one of my 1st purchases was a lunchie. I made the basic mistake of overlooking bearings so I recently bought a set and starting replacing the evil plastic ones last night.
My question is after replacing the bearings on the front wheels there seems to be a lot of lateral travel of the rims on the axles. About 2-3mm of air after the wheelnuts are tightened to the limit of the thread on the rod. Is this normal and is it actually a problem? I thought of getting some washers to pack out the space a bit but if if so where's the best place to use them? Chassis or wheelnut side?
-
What surface are you on? If you're not bothered about the scale looks then try a set of racing wheels/tyres designer for 1/10 touring. Oil shocks and adjustable camber arms are something to think about too.
Iridescent paint help
in General discussions
Posted
Thanks guys I'll have a butchers at it in the sun when I get home. Heatwaves are great!