Walsall-Basher
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Posts posted by Walsall-Basher
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My girlfriend did a pretty good job of convincing me that the wild willy 2 she'd ordered me hadn't turned up from wonderland models, and that they weren't answering the phone or answering emails. I tried phoning them as well with no reply on Xmas eve. So it was still a surprise when she arrived with a big box Xmas eve night with a silly grin on her face!
Finished the chassis yday, ok just how many paint pots do I need now lol?
Also got some Etronics pro 2.4ghz sticks from my family.
Merry Xmas all
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I bunged it in my hornet with its 104 earlier and it worked perfectly. Not tried it at any range yet but seems 100% working indoors. Gonna buy the wheel version and half a dozen rx units I think
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i'd already ordered the same radio system before i saw this thread, so wasnt expecting much when i plugged it into a teu101, it works brill though. just hope i dont get a 104 in the wild willy im getting from my girlfriend for xmas!
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sweet video, i think ive got the same plane they use. wish i had the beach handy too!
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Hi all, anyone know offhand if there's any indoor racing in the west midlands area on a Monday or Thursday night? Just getting into the sport so super duper brushless bit out of my skill range but mini, mardave or silvercan touring would be ideal
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hi all, santa is bringing me a wild willy this year so i can bash it around with my daughter and her lunchbox, im looking for some bearings for it and have found a uk ebay seller named rcbearings that are selling a set for £7.49. these are metal sealed but in the blurb it says I can have rubber sealed if I stipulate that in the order. has anyone used this guys bearings before and are the rubber sealed better for general trashing around the park?
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I tried a core racing 5000mah nimh with my 5.5 Ezrun system and it wasn't up to the job. Lots of stuttering and lag. If you're only bashing then the overlander lipo series are good IMO. Soft case so can fit where a 6cell stick pack would go
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Re steel mainshaft FS7039 I've just received mine from a Japanese store, hopefully in time before the rest of the gearbox got damaged.
Anyone interested in buying one email champ_international@yahoo.co.jp with your request and they'll come back with their paypal details and shipping options. Very excellent service from Masa Tani in their overseas sales dept. Mine was 1860yen shipped and I had it within a week to the UK
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Been scratching my head over this but I think im going to chuck the voucher at some Xmas shopping and spend my rc money somewhere a bit more competitive.
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okay i've just got a long awaited poker reward of a £250 amazon uk voucher, can't decide what to buy! all the tamiya kits are pretty well overpriced and apart from a schumacher SX2 pro kit that i was thinking about (£320 but i'll put the difference in) theres not too much else on there. If anyone gets a minute have a search for tamiya on there and let me know what you'd get, a lot of the prices are just lol, like £298 for a scorcher (£50 mark up?) so does narrow things down a bit
as a new tamiya owner ive got a LB, a Hornet, Keen Hawk, TT-01E (BMW M3) a TRF415MSX
Im hoping to do a bit of buggy racing next summer, think theres 4WD, 2WD and vintage classes that accept re-res. also love a bit of monster trucking but alas theres no clod busters for sale on there. Also quite keen on some mini racing in the near future
Apart from that i love building as much as driving, not too keen on modifying apart from the usual hop-ups and certainly not keen on fixing problems with the designs (just had to order a steel mainshaft from Japan for my df03)
whats a baja champ like? dont think ive seen one apart from on amazon
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The sheets I mentioned before are clear vinyl self adhesive inkjet paper. They certainly don't blur or run during the printing phase- even on a very cheap Epsom inkjet. They do need fixing before handling and applying though like I said. They are also translucent so unless your shell is white then don't bother. I made a replica of the '98 Honda accord entered in the BTCC on a hpi shell for my tt01 and it doesn't look too ugly. Might post a pic if OP wants
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too weird looking. the front is very nice but the rear is hard to describe. i guess that's why that version was never sold in the states. they should have reissued the r33 skyline body on the tt01 chassis.
i own a old type (2004) CTR and from what ive heard the newer one is a bit of a dog to drive, and slower, but the styling does grow on you when you see them around enough like in the UK. thought they'd have sold well in the states? (they can't go round corners)
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try ebay seller STECLAR704
I bought 10 sheets of the A4 clear inkjet sticker sheets for £7.99 and found them ok, they are quite thick so some curves require a bit of hatchet work and you wont get a very professional finish. Also invest in some clear acrylic spray to spray the stickers before applying as the ink takes forever to dry out, i didnt read this and tried leaving them for a few hours and they still smudged, being a bodger i just stuck another layer of clear sticker over the printed ones. i dont think you'll ever get professional looking decals out of a home printer but just for kicks they are ok to have a play around with.
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i want one of these
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if you google silvercan tuning tricks or similar you'll find lots of information, there doesnt seem to be hard and fast rules but finding a good silvercan is pretty hit and miss it seems. theres some old ones about with 4 slots in them as opposed to the newer 2 slot version that seem to be a bit quicker to start with, but are going for a pretty penny on ebay. then you can try breaking them in well so that the brushes sit flush with the comm, keeping them spotless and lubed well.
even then it does seem to come down to the freaks of manufacture that are perfectly balanced and can hit these rpms. buy 100 and a dyno and find your fastest one, sell the rest?
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As a latecomer to racing and rc'ing in general I'd heartily recommend hinckleys quicksilver series to anyone toying with the idea of giving racing a go. The facilities and club are excellent and the friendly support, advice and encouragment from James, Richard and others are even better. Great work guys, can't wait to get down again
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Hi Baz, Yep - business as usual at the racing tomorrow. Have you got your own car ready to race now? Unfortunately spare tables are a bit sparse despite it being a school so I'll bring a spare folding camping table I've got that you are welcome to borrow. Have you thought of returning the dwarf table to Argos, haven't they got a 16 day exchange promise?
Richard
Thanks in advance for the table, will get myself a proper one after tomorrow. I'll keep the other one for my dwarf to do some colouring on i think. Carwise yep I'm all sorted. Might buy a set of those sweep wheels tomorrow tho as the ones I've bought online look a bit small
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hi lads, we might head over again tomorrow. is it same times and stuff as last time? also are there tables knocking about anywhere to borrow? i bought one from argos but i didnt read the dimensions and its a bit stupidly small
footnote. any dwarves want to buy a table?
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try some dot-4 clutch and brake fluid from your local motor supplies shop. about £5 for 500ml. takes a little bit of elbow grease but does the job
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if you scroll down on that page one of the cars has a hot-bodies decal on it. im guessing its a hot-bodies!
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You should be fine, it is cutting it close though...
for the ezrun set-up you mean? im thinking that too, its has got lipo protection built in but im wondering if the discharge needs might put a little bit too much strain on the battery. think i need to spend a bit more on a 5000 pack with a 40 or 50C rating. my poor old debit card!
ive been looking into the tt01 set-up and ive decided to replace the esc with an mtronics viper that ive got sat here, the tamiya TEU-101BK in there now hasnt got a BEC i've read so there might be some issues with the Rx current, have also ordered a cheapish hobbywing low voltage cut-off for the same car. i might have even wasted the money on this battery as its not a hard case and the club rules state those only. ill slap it in something i guess.
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hi a lipo newbie here, i recently bought a proper charger (core uac-40) and i saw a cheap lipo pack for sale, its an overlander 3200 25C/35C burst at around £22. my main use will be some not very serious silvercan racing with a tamiya ESC, im guessing that'll all be fine. it hasnt got a low voltage cut off but i think for a 5 minute run with the 540 motor it wont get even half discharged? standard or am i being reckless? will obviously be very careful about recharging after each and every run and will build up to the 5 minutes incrementally to make sure everything is working out.
im also wondering if i can pop it into my df03 as well tho, its fitted with an EZrun 5.5t brushless motor with the Ezrun-60A-SL speedo, as i understand it the battery can deliver 3.2 * 25 = 80 amps but i noticed the esc needs 60A continuous and 380A burst. is this set-up cutting things a bit fine for the lipo?
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It has suffered a couple of front end collisions so I'm guessing something isn't true on it. With no linkages attached it's extremely stiff after screwing on the front gearbox. Guessing it's the front bottom plate that I need to swap out?
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im rebuilding my df03 after some diff issues and was wondering about the stiffness in the stock steering assembly, basically it all seems well designed until you screw the front gearbox/shock tower assembly over the top.
ive tried loosening off the 4 screws and it frees it up a bit but obviously having a floppy front end isnt an answer. would it be ok to shim it up a bit so that the whole thing sits a fraction off or is there a better solution. im only using standard servos atm. what about an alloy steering assembly, does this problem still exist then?
Noob Racer Wants Spur/pinion Advise
in RC Racing Talk
Posted
Just got myself a trf415msx to be user for some silvercan racing. Don't know the exact spur/pinion teeth count on it but rough estimate by counting with fingernail is 80/40
I know I can use the rw racing black Xray spurs that come in many sizes.
What's a good starting point for fast open tracks where top end seems to matter most?
Tyia
Edit I just had another look and it's actually 84t spur and 52t pinion I've got on it. Not tested it flat out yet. Those ratios be any good for a silvercan?