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  • Birthday 10/27/1980

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    Cars and RC Modelling.
  1. Wow! That looks like a real, full size rig. Great job, thanks for sharing. I noticed that the Servonaut kit has screw in terminals for the lights, makes adding extras a little easier. Well, I have the MFU so have to work with that. I think I have a way forward. Had a good look at it last night and what im going to do is cut the 3 "speed indicator" lights out and parallel them into the existing amber running lights on either side of them, so that all 5 will be fixed runners. Once the MFU is set to just run them as standard and not as speed indicators, they will just stay on all the time. That leaves me with 3 extra sockets which will also be "always on" in non speed indicator mode. I will also have the 3 plugs from the speed LEDs which I can use to make up a few LED harness' that way. Should work fine, can't see any issues as long as I use 1.5v LEDs. I want to light this sucker up good!
  2. Interesting. Thanks for the input and really nice looking setup btw. Ill get my hands on some 1.5V leds and have a go.
  3. Thanks Mouton. I don't be running it hard anyway. It has not yet been used outdoors even, plus it has never pulled anything but it's own weight, so all good for now.
  4. Amazing collection, well done. Makes me want to get a trailer and another truck.
  5. Also a note for anyone buying TX's online, make sure you buy Mode 2 not mode 1. Mode 2 means that the throttle is on the left stick whereas mode 1 is on the right. Sorry if this is already common knowledge, just my two cents. I have also noticed that some truckers (of the RC variety) switch the left stick ratchet system around so that the ratchet is on the left to right motion of the stick so that the truck will stay in the "selected gear" and the sprung motion is up/down for throttle. Seems like a good idea to me. I might do it myself.
  6. I saw a lot of hydraulic componants over on gardentrucking.com. Should have all you need.
  7. Cheers Jeff, that was a very fast response! I shouldn't really have had to ask to be honest. I knew what milli Amp per hour was and was confident when buying the battery, but I had put the truck and all the kit away for nearly a year and when I took it all out again the other day, I just had lost that confidence and forgotten a few things. Thought it best to check with the pros before going ahead and plugging it in. It is 7.2V so should be fine. Thanks for the reassurance, I will enjoy the truck for longer now!
  8. Hi again, I actually built my Knight Hauler last year and then put it away until I was happy enough with my painting skills before attempting to paint it. It means too much to me! I practiced on static 1:24 models and then moved on to restoring a few electric guitars. Happy and confident enough now, I am going to go ahead and paint my truck and do the final assembly. Once that is done, I think i'll start tricking it out a little, a few mods here and there. One thing I want to do is use guitar string for scale CB antennas. On to the real point of this thread. I have seen so many youtube vids were guys have gone to town with leds as side markers and runners along trailers etc and just wondering if any of you have any tips. All I know is that you need 3V Leds. Are there any other specifics such as low voltage or anything else? Should you use in line resistors or get leds with inbuilt resistors? I already had a go with adding in just a couple of extra running lights on the rear bumper. They work for me, but seriously dim out the leds I piggybacked them off. I also wanted to add in extra indicators into the air cleaners, again, they work, but they seem to be sponging too much current from the existing leds. Should I even be piggybacking or trying to run them straight from the MFC? I have also bought a pair of amber flashers (beacons) for the roof from Germany. They come with their own control board which plugs straight in to the receiver, so I can have that on another dedicated channel, that will be cool. I currently use an Acoms 4 channel unit, but I am going to swap it out with a 6 channel, 2.4GHZ system with analog trims. This will allow me to add in some extra functions. All that done, I will get myself a trailer, LOVING the new 40 foot container. All advice, opinions and criticism and comments are welcome. Much appreciated guys, thanks. PS: Once I have finished the truck properly, I will put up some photos.
  9. Hey all, Does anyone have any idea of the max size battery that you can run on the MFC? I currently run a 2000 mAh battery but I bought a 5200 mAh a while back thinking that I would get much longer running time. However, i'm now a little nervous in case I burn out my MFC. Obviously the MFC is a pricey unit and I don't want to take any chances. What is the common consensus on this? Thanks in advance......
  10. Hate to disagree, sorry, but there is a fix. Google Alclad and check it out on youtube. It's a spray, mostly for airbrush application. It's actually real chrome particles in a laquer spray format. It's pretty toxic in so far as metal particles in the fumes, so you need to wear a mask when spraying. You put down a gloss black base and spray ALCLAD very, very finely over it and you get actual, real chrome that really blings and shines. It can still be a little delicate though so best to give it a good clear on top. Most clears out there may tarnish the chrome shine though, so use Alclads own special clear which will maintain and protect the chrome. Check it out!
  11. Guys check out Alclad. Have a good look through the website but give some time to youtube also. These guys have several shades of chrome, gunmetal, bronze and gold and so on. They recommend a gloss black for this product. This seems to be the best stuff on the market and you get some really outstanding results. The big difference here seems to be that it is not really paint as such, paint will never be truly chrome as chrome is not a colour but a metal. So Alclad actually has tiny elements or chrome in a laquar. This makes it pretty toxic, you HAVE to ware a very good mask or else you inhale metal particles. Alclad was founded in England in 1999 and seems to have done pretty well. The website tells the story. I just discovered it while I was searching for a good way to chrome some parts on my Knight Hauler. Only thing is, from what I saw, it comes in a bottle ready for airbrush and I don't have a airbrush!! Typical!
  12. That's interesting, ill try them in parallel then. 8? Wow, 2 barely worked for me. Out of interest, what circuit are you feeding them from? Headlights, Fogs, or front aux?
  13. Mike O, Thanks very much for your very detailed response. Much appreciated. Incredible English for a Dane, but to be fair I have a few colleagues in Denmark and I am always impressed with their English, they even kind of have American accents! Right, I am not that good with electronics. What you are saying makes sense to me, but I may have to read it a few times and do a bit of homework to fully understand it. It is a massive help though and puts me on the right train of thought. I don't have time at the moment to work on the truck, but when I do, the next thing is to paint the body and fit some of the extras I got for it. Once that is done and the truck is "finished" I will go back to trying to light her up a little more. Thanks again for putting so much effort into that reply, very helpful. Swagger.
  14. Ok, I tried a few electronics stores and to my total shock, they had no LED's. Finally I drove across the county to Maplin. They had 3 of the type of LED that I wanted. Yep, 3. Sad huh? So I tried to get some more, maybe different colour or whatever. All I wanted was some 3V 3mm LED's in white and red and amber/orange. All I managed to get was 3 red and 3 white, both 3mm but I think the guy gave me the wrong type of white ones. I am guessing that they are 9 or 12 volt as they barely illuminate even on a 5V source. The reds work fine and I installed them on the back of my Knight Hauler this evening and spliced them off my rear aux lights. I basically made a loom that looks identical to the Tamiya LED looms, twisted pair cable with the two LED's wired in series. I added a small resistor on the first LED anode to reduce the current drawn by the two new LED's. All works fine, but the existing rear Aux lights seem to be a little dimmer now with the extra current being drawn from that circuit. I know some people add hundreds of LED's to their trucks, I can't see that any more than 2 of these would be a good idea without dimming all the LED's down to practically nothing. Can someone please advise me of the best exact LED spec to get and possibly where to get them? I have given up on local stores, what's a decent website to order from? Cheers, Swagger.
  15. I think I have it figured out, someone told me they should be 3V LED's. I just had a bunch of LED's that a friend gave me, don't have any spec on them, but I am guessing that they are 12V. Will get some 3V LED's tomorrow and try them out. Thanks!
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