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  1. Hi folks, Bit of an odd request. I'm planning another Aeromax-based project but can't find a cab/main body anywhere. Don't suppose anyone has a spare tucked away that they would be willing to sell? Please get in touch if you have one. Pretty please! (UK if possible please, international shipping costs are likely to make it too expensive) thanks, Rob
  2. J@mes, thanks for the link but they seem to sell everything except the parts I'm looking for :-(
  3. Hi all, I'm begging again! I'm looking for a pair of Wild One front suspension stays (bottom shock mounts), part number 19804527, BA29 in the re-re manual. I'm tinkering with a project but can't get the shock mounting right. I think these will solve the problem. If you've got a spare pair and would be prepared to sell them, please get in touch. I'm not fussy about condition, un-mangled is all I'm asking. Thanks in advance, Rob
  4. I've tried both ways, spraying directly over chrome and removing the chrome before painting. Had better results with the wheels that had the chrome removed, the wheels that were painted over the chrome definitely chipped and scratched more easily. This was mainly off-road use so that probably didn't help (and/or DeadMeat may have better paint!). Now I always remove the chrome (using oven cleaner), then prime, paint and hope
  5. No love for Willy? Blasphemy!!!! Of course not everyone likes them, but then you get people like Simensays, me and others who always seem to be, in classic TamiyaClub style, playing with our Willys! If you're not finding enough Willy action in the forums, go have a look through people's showrooms on the main site or search there (home page - Resources - Car Database - and then type Wild Willy in the search box) - you'll find hundreds! Personally I think the Wild Willy and Wild Willy 2 are some of the most iconic models Tamiya ever made (and don't get me started on the Willy's Wheeler/Honda City Turbo!!). cheers, Rob
  6. Very cool. You'd ever know the bed was scratch built. Watching with interest...
  7. Yup, the M06 Type 2 Kombi body is completely different to the WR02 Type 2 Kombi body (M06 body is 1/10 scale, WR02 roughly 1/12). The WR02 body is too narrow and the wheelbase is too short for a M-chassis.
  8. Hope you don't mind if I drag this up again. No disrespect to Chris, I fully understand the reasons for changing the home page on the main site, but I really don't like it! The situation is different now, people at home more and a lot more content being added to showrooms. Which is great, but the situation where someone uploads a load of models and pushes everyone else straight off the page - well, it seems kind of unfair! Must admit I much preferred the old page layout where it wasn't just 12 different builds, but the work of 12 different builders. I worry that it's going to put people off adding models to their showrooms. We all like our 15 minutes of fame, the comments and the likes but if no-one sees your entry because someone else uploaded pics of their entire collection - what's the point? So I hope it's ok to make a couple of suggestions: Go back to the old system, if only as a temporary change for a couple of months and see how it goes and/or add an extra row so there's 18 models shown instead of 12 (less risk of one person dominating the whole page) and/or would it be possible to add a function so the viewer can switch between the old layout and the new? What does everyone else think? cheers, Rob .
  9. If I may, I'll offer a little more advice or maybe even a word of caution. Be careful, these things are potentially addictive!
  10. Sounds like a fun project. Just a quick thought really - the Honda City Turbo has a single front body post. It uses a sort of adaptor piece which screws to the front of the chassis, and then the post is attached to it. Although the Honda uses the WR02 chassis, the WR02 and GF01 have a lot in common. Not sure how it would all line up but it might be worth a look. cheers, Rob
  11. Hi Simon, sorry I missed this earlier. Not claiming to be any sort of expert but a couple of things that might help. Unscrew the front body post and sandwich an o-ring between the post and its mount. It moves the body forward 1 or 2mm and is usually enough to allow the tyres to clear the arches (though it's important to note what AJB said about the battery lid posts.) The body can be made to sit pretty low. The main obstruction is the wheelie bar. Removing it or fitting longer spacers and screws allow the body to go lower. AJB also mentioned its nasty habit of smacking the front of the body into the ground when coming down from a wheelie. Oil shocks help to a point but it's worth considering running with the body a bit higher to protect it. Most of the body's weight is relatively low down so this doesn't have a huge effect on the handling, such as it is! These are fun to run, you just have to remember it's not a touring car! Obviously full chat into a tight turn is going to put it on its roof. But turn the wick down a bit, remember to ease off into turns and just drive it within its limits and it may pleasantly surprise you. And they're an absolute blast on damp tarmac! Hope this helps, at least a bit. cheers, Rob
  12. Exactly those!! Kind sir, can I buy them please?
  13. Hi all, Afraid I need to ask for some help with a project, I need a some of the long Wild Willy 2/TG10 rear wheel axles (2 would be great, 4 would be ideal). Not fussy about new or used. If anyone has some they would be prepared to part with for a reasonable price, please get in touch. Rest assured they'll be coming to a good home Thank you, Rob
  14. I've got a couple of spare long bumpers, yours if you want one (or more!).
  15. Be careful Jenny - as the pic that Cesco posted proves, they can turn into a bit of an obsession!
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