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IBIFTKH

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About IBIFTKH

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    Gloucester, UK

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  1. I have a long-term obsession with almost anything Wild Willy related, so my opinion may be slightly biased! But good things to say about both - I like the Comical buggies but the WW2 is definitely the best looking IMHO. They're good tough little trucks though the rollbar spotlights are vulnerable. I'd recommend a set of bearings and a steel pinion as necessary hop-ups. Oil shocks help tame the bouncing a little bit and there's a ton of other stuff you can get if you want, or keep it simple and have a blast anyway. The Comicals are fun too. The lighter bodies and revised suspension make a difference but the basic (bonkers!) character remains. They're not bad value either, in the UK they're usually cheaper than a WW2 and they include oil shocks in the kit. However, the Comical Hornet and Frog use the new (slightly naff!) 'multi-purpose driver figure' instead of Willy - Tamiya, what were you thinking??? (All is not lost, he can be retro-fitted ) I'm talking too much, let's have some pics...
  2. I clicked the link to go to your profile, then 'Message' Everything as normal until I clicked Send, then the 'Netsmith can't receive messages' appears (screenshot below)
  3. Hi Chris, Just tried to PM you to ask about using the new service but on the PM screen it says 'NetsmithUK cannot receive messages'. Feeling a bit stuck now! Rob
  4. My username is somewhere between an excuse and a way of life, it covers much silliness over many years - I Bought It For The Kids, Honest!
  5. Only an answer to the first question, sorry. The comical cars use hex fitting on the front and rear, the wheels are identical, only the tyres are different. The wheels are two-piece, a main rim and a centre/spoke section. Hope this helps. cheers, Rob
  6. I've stripped a couple of chrome bodies. Soaked them in oven cleaner (the thick gel stuff in the orange box) followed by a run through the dishwasher.
  7. It looks like the splined gears, gear hubs and gearbox-to-propshaft joint from a tractor truck.
  8. Dear God, not another CC01 please! Surely the legendary Blazer should at the very least merit a new & improved CC02?
  9. Painting's the fun bit There's so much detail in the body and accessories, you can really go to town on it if you want to. Of course, the first time it topples over makes you want to cry a little bit...!
  10. If I remember correctly, the offset on the front wheels is very different too. You may be ok fitting the WW2 wheels on the Pumpkin, I think you'll end up with a wider front track and you may need a shallower hex on the rears. Fitting the MP wheels on the WW - you may be able to switch fittings on the rear and get away with it, may need some fiddling. But the fronts will foul the suspension. In your position I'd try the WW2 wheels on the MP, see if they fit, see if you like the result. If it works ok and you're happy, simplest option for the WW2 is a new set of wheels. The Tamiya wheels can be picked up fairly cheap or there's always the temptation of aftermarket options...
  11. I've really enjoyed reading this thread so far, great to see people's thoughts and perspectives. I'm another who believes a car should at least have a driver and preferably an interior, even if the interior is sold as an optional extra. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the interiors that are currently available are quite nice but a little more variety would be appreciated. The current range of driver figures could also benefit from an overhaul as most of them are showing their age - less-than-sharp detail in some cases, imperfect joins in many. Comparing a 1/10 driver figure to, for example, a 1/35 military figure it's hard not to feel that RC figures are rather neglected! Given Tamiya's prowess as a scale model manufacturer, it's easy to imagine what they could achieve with even a relatively small range of new figures, interiors and detail parts. I was also intrigued by the mention of slotcar racing. Slotcars were my main hobby from around 1998-2008. Not the wing cars shown in the video earlier, but the scale cars. During the late 90s and early 2000s, scale slot racing expanded massively. As mentioned earlier, Fly were a huge part of that. I think it's fair to say they took the market by storm. Sure, their cars were pretty fast, aided by stronger magnets than those used by Scalextric, Carrera or Ninco at the time. But their real appeal was simple - their cars were beautiful! They looked almost as good as die-cast models; the cars were realistic and nicely detailed, great paintwork and liveries, and even the interiors had at least some level of detail. They made the other manufacturers' cars look very poor indeed. It didn't stop there, as they introduced new models the level of detail increased and yet the cars remained very durable. Fly also introduced new chassis layouts so their cars would mimic 1:1 engine placement - front-mounted motor driving rear axle via prop-shaft, mid-engine (motor just ahead of rear axle) and even rear-engine. Their rear-engine Porsche 911 range was one of my favourites. Of course, Fly arriving on the scene and grabbing a huge slice of the market forced the other manufacturers to respond. Soon all of them were offering high quality, beautifully detailed models. Scale appearance became a major selling point, something the manufacturers competed over, because it was obvious that the majority of buyers wanted their cars to look as realistic as possible. Yes, people continued to build and race wing cars, that's a fine art all of its own and it remained largely unchanged. Home racers and club racers were the customer base for Scalextric, Carrera, Ninco and Fly and those customers wanted scale, detail and realism rather than outright performance. Almost sounds like some of the views expressed in this thread...
  12. If you had the budget for a shed that size, you'd probably have the budget to (over-) fill it...
  13. Rule 1: Plan your space. Rule 2: However much space you think you'll need, you're wrong. You'll need more. Rule 3: Still not enough, add more space. Rule 4: And a bit more. Rule 5: Now add space for spare parts stashes, unfinished projects, random purchases, tyres, batteries, chargers, paints, glues etc. As Juggular said, you'll still end up filling all available space. But if you start with a large area, it takes longer to fill it!
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