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  1. Only an answer to the first question, sorry. The comical cars use hex fitting on the front and rear, the wheels are identical, only the tyres are different. The wheels are two-piece, a main rim and a centre/spoke section. Hope this helps. cheers, Rob
  2. I've stripped a couple of chrome bodies. Soaked them in oven cleaner (the thick gel stuff in the orange box) followed by a run through the dishwasher.
  3. It looks like the splined gears, gear hubs and gearbox-to-propshaft joint from a tractor truck.
  4. Dear God, not another CC01 please! Surely the legendary Blazer should at the very least merit a new & improved CC02?
  5. Painting's the fun bit There's so much detail in the body and accessories, you can really go to town on it if you want to. Of course, the first time it topples over makes you want to cry a little bit...!
  6. If I remember correctly, the offset on the front wheels is very different too. You may be ok fitting the WW2 wheels on the Pumpkin, I think you'll end up with a wider front track and you may need a shallower hex on the rears. Fitting the MP wheels on the WW - you may be able to switch fittings on the rear and get away with it, may need some fiddling. But the fronts will foul the suspension. In your position I'd try the WW2 wheels on the MP, see if they fit, see if you like the result. If it works ok and you're happy, simplest option for the WW2 is a new set of wheels. The Tamiya wheels can be picked up fairly cheap or there's always the temptation of aftermarket options...
  7. I've really enjoyed reading this thread so far, great to see people's thoughts and perspectives. I'm another who believes a car should at least have a driver and preferably an interior, even if the interior is sold as an optional extra. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the interiors that are currently available are quite nice but a little more variety would be appreciated. The current range of driver figures could also benefit from an overhaul as most of them are showing their age - less-than-sharp detail in some cases, imperfect joins in many. Comparing a 1/10 driver figure to, for example, a 1/35 military figure it's hard not to feel that RC figures are rather neglected! Given Tamiya's prowess as a scale model manufacturer, it's easy to imagine what they could achieve with even a relatively small range of new figures, interiors and detail parts. I was also intrigued by the mention of slotcar racing. Slotcars were my main hobby from around 1998-2008. Not the wing cars shown in the video earlier, but the scale cars. During the late 90s and early 2000s, scale slot racing expanded massively. As mentioned earlier, Fly were a huge part of that. I think it's fair to say they took the market by storm. Sure, their cars were pretty fast, aided by stronger magnets than those used by Scalextric, Carrera or Ninco at the time. But their real appeal was simple - their cars were beautiful! They looked almost as good as die-cast models; the cars were realistic and nicely detailed, great paintwork and liveries, and even the interiors had at least some level of detail. They made the other manufacturers' cars look very poor indeed. It didn't stop there, as they introduced new models the level of detail increased and yet the cars remained very durable. Fly also introduced new chassis layouts so their cars would mimic 1:1 engine placement - front-mounted motor driving rear axle via prop-shaft, mid-engine (motor just ahead of rear axle) and even rear-engine. Their rear-engine Porsche 911 range was one of my favourites. Of course, Fly arriving on the scene and grabbing a huge slice of the market forced the other manufacturers to respond. Soon all of them were offering high quality, beautifully detailed models. Scale appearance became a major selling point, something the manufacturers competed over, because it was obvious that the majority of buyers wanted their cars to look as realistic as possible. Yes, people continued to build and race wing cars, that's a fine art all of its own and it remained largely unchanged. Home racers and club racers were the customer base for Scalextric, Carrera, Ninco and Fly and those customers wanted scale, detail and realism rather than outright performance. Almost sounds like some of the views expressed in this thread...
  8. If you had the budget for a shed that size, you'd probably have the budget to (over-) fill it...
  9. Rule 1: Plan your space. Rule 2: However much space you think you'll need, you're wrong. You'll need more. Rule 3: Still not enough, add more space. Rule 4: And a bit more. Rule 5: Now add space for spare parts stashes, unfinished projects, random purchases, tyres, batteries, chargers, paints, glues etc. As Juggular said, you'll still end up filling all available space. But if you start with a large area, it takes longer to fill it!
  10. I usually use the GT Power light units. Basic, plug & play, nice and easy although a little bulky. It's often advertised as a flashing light kit as it can be set to 'always on' or a variety of flashing modes. Just press the set-up button until you get what you want. This type of thing - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT-POWER-12-LED-Flashing-Head-Light-Lamp-System-Kit-RC-Car-1-10/172366873096?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  11. My daughter's going to love this And it'll be nice to have a Frog without a self-destructing diff! So this is the third model in the series and yes, they're a bit same-old, same-old now. They seem to be Marmite cars - love 'em or hate 'em. For me, it was nice to see that Tamiya have made quite a few changes to the chassis for this series, hopefully we'll see more development as the series progresses. I'm hoping that we see some tyre options, the Frog and Hornet should have spiked rear tyres, the Grasshopper (and the Scorcher if it comes) should have paddles. It'll be interesting to see what they do next. Now they've resurrected the QD Beetle body I think we're almost guaranteed a comical Sand Scorcher with the QD body in white, probably before Christmas. After that? I wonder if they'll go for another 2WD buggy like a Fox, or will they branch out? Maybe we'll see the GF01 chassis used for a comical Hotshot, Boomerang etc. They'd be daft not to. Maybe they'll push the envelope further and use the Honda City Turbo WR02C chassis for some comical road cars? Comical Quattro or Ascona, Lancia 037 or Escort Cosworth? I'd buy those in a heartbeat, overdraft be damned! They could lengthen the chassis a bit to improve the proportions but either way I think they'd be winners. Potentially the comical series could be massive so it's going to be interesting to see how Tamiya choose to develop it.
  12. You're right when you say there's no need to go nuts, they're good solid bashers as standard. The torque tuned will give you a little more speed than silver can, the sports tuned is a small step up from the torque tuned. Batteries make more difference, lipos will give you more of a performance boost than either motor on nimh. It depends what you want, or rather how much faster than stock do you need it to be? The 20T gives you a little more speed but it's not a huge difference. A steel pinion is definitely recommended (.06 mod). If you go the whole hog - lipo, sports tuned, 20T pinion - you're going to end up with something significantly faster than stock. Lowering the body - cut off the L-shaped wedge that protrudes from the underside of the body next to the hole in the floor and you can lower the body so it's basically sitting on the top of the chassis. CVA's or any decent oil shocks will help reduce the bounciness (and let the suspension actually work!). There are several alloy wheelie bars available. The 'show off' option is the Yeah Racing adjustable aluminium one with its own oil shocks http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-shock-absorb-wheelie-gear-damper-tamiya-wr02-p-62832.html?cPath=595_744_1656 Another bit that wasn't on your list. I've broken a couple of the kit steering servo savers. You might have better luck (or drive better than me!) but it might be worth having a spare or fitting a high torque servo saver (haven't broken one of those - yet!). The servo posts can take a bit of a battering too, it's a good excuse to trade up for the nice blue alloy ones... Hope this helps. Rob
  13. Yup, the 8-wheeler is two TLT-1s bolted together, 8 wheel drive, 8 wheel steering. Front and rear steer independently so it can crab steer. The second one is based on the 1/32 Wild Saurus Styrene is stronger than foam board, and it's pretty easy to work with. Starting with a couple of smaller projects will build your confidence. Get stuck in and see what you can do.
  14. Thank you again, very kind of you. But yeah, I'm not someone who can be trusted with styrene sheets! Strange things tend to happen...
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