Percymon

@CarmineA There are plenty of olde skool guys on Clodtalk running 3S, and have done for 7+ years or longer. Andymacs thread has pretty much all the trials and tribulations you could read about if you've got a spare day or so - the odd video helps to see what sort of speeds are involved. https://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27443 Andy is not racing or sled pulling, just 'bashing' and tinkering. He, and others on that forum, have done enough motor and esc combos to know what works and lasts. The Traxxas EVX-2 ESC is a tough reliable ESC, not the cheapest but it'll work for years and take some abuse. You can often pick up the earlier version without lipo cut off fairly cheap used, if you're happy to run a lipo alarm of cut short your run times to prevent low voltages. Silver cans, EVX-2 and 3S lipo works well, and certainly gives enough speed for most people, and probably at the limit of what the standard(ish) chassis set up can utilise. I've known people re-time one TZ/RZ motor to run reverse and they do give a boost in speed on 2S but its far easier and cheaper to run 3S and silver cans. Larger motors will certainly give motor torque, but they often foul on the lower suspension arms due to the increased size so buy with care if that's the route you go. As to battery packs, i wouldn;t look for anything less than 40C-60C, even on silver cans - better to have something that can easily delivery the current requested of the ESC; prevents the ESC shutting down/stuttering if nothing else. Li-po packs have come a long way in the last 5 years, and its probably quite hard to buy a low C rated one these days, but there will always be someone selling somethign temptingly cheap - buy wise, buy once. And just to add, you might want to have some spare gear sets and axle tubes handy, they are the weak links when going up in power and speed.

Yeah I paid the same, kept them for a few years nib. I’d already restored two RC10 team versions so didn’t see me building them for a long time. Sold both of them for ca £90 profit each, which given limited appeal in UK after most interested people got one at launch was a decent sale IMO. With silly eBay pricing for most rc cars/buggies currently I dare say they’d fetch more currently, but you’d perhaps have to wait longer for a buyer.

This sounds like the linkage /servo zero point for the speed controller isnt set correctly (assuming it’s an older manual controller). With the handset turned on the trims of the handset could be set sufficiently to move the MSC into a neutral position, turn the transmitter off and the msc servo resorts to its own neutral point, which may engage the contacts of the speed controller. alwsys turn on the transmitter first, and turn it off last

I'm amazed at the prices of all Tamiyas these days, especially well used volume models needing a full strip and plenty of parts - what i would have paid £40-50 for 5 years ago, and then sold for £100-120 (after £40+ of parts and hours of cleaning/reassembly) seem to make £80+ these days. I wouldn;t mind but a lot of the cheap Tamiya parts suppliers (RCMart, Banzai) are either not around any longer or subject to VAT additions; making a lot of refurbs an expensive business now.

No snow here id be tempted to drag my custom Wraith out for a spin on the white stuff..

Lunchbox should be a good option, wide balloon tyres and pretty light weight. Clod works ok too down to the balloon tyres again. modern high lifts and CR01 can work ok in an inch of snow but the tyres are often not the best suited for grip

An interesting, and welcome option. Its 6+ years ago since i did the MF-01X with the TBG body, the one i received was wafer thin on the front lower bumper and the lowest portion at the rear - these are the highest drawn areas when creating the shells I'd guess. If I were doing it again I think I'd go with Kamtec or the L&L one - just to see if they were any better / avoid some of the disappointment I had with the TBG one. Maybe i didnt get the best example, maybe they are slightly better now ?

Traxxas T-Maxx XX-Long shocks work well - plastic bodied, oil filled, rebuildable (never really had to in my experience) and whilst not as cheap as they were years ago, you can get a set of 4 for around £30-35

You don't have to tell me about taking in strays / basket cases !

Possibly ! What's not to like - great series of chassis, easy to work on, parts are plentiful, loads of body shells and very robust runner Wez - i still have a sandwich box full of DF-01 and related parts if you are interested or need anything - not sure what's in there (a few years since i last looked) but a mix of new/used plastic parts, drivetrain items and possibly some chassis plates.

Lol - yes its a bit of mismatch at first glance, all in the name of building another modified Clodbuster, this one supposedly a little more 'racer'.. CPE carbon fibre chassis frame Clod Axles Vaterra lower links Alloy 4 link brackets and links Alloy hub strengtheners Gmade XD piggyback shocks Dual brushless motors

E o T-Maxx stock shocks - 100mm length, plastic bodied, oil filled = they used to be about £20 for a set of 8. They are Traxxas TRX3762 items, but often sold as 4907, such as these.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Traxxas-4907-T-Maxx-3-3-Shocks-W-Springs-8-Spacer-E-Maxx/224230953338?hash=item343534d17a:g:lBoAAOSwe~lfrFhP

A long time since i did a build, but i've still not finished this, so i guess this one is about the most recent really..

Traxxas oil filled shocks work very well - they were the go to upgrade for mod clods 5-8 years ago; even better when you could get them pretty cheap from UK parts sellers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coming-soon-Tamiya-1-14-Jet-Truck-Grand-Hauler-Swiwin-SW60B-Turbine-Afterburner-/203013667576?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coming-soon-Tamiya-1-10-M08-VW-Type-II-Pickup-Body-w-Kingtech-K30-3kg-Turbine-/203013684922?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292