Percymon
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Posts posted by Percymon
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Orbital Fasteners are a good option for stainless bolrs, washers and buts - prices similar to Westfield but more accommodating on postage for small orders.
Some Tamiya suppliers like timetunnel and fusion do stock some small quantity screws packs, not the cheapest per unit item but better than buying a kit screw pack for a few contents. An example.. http://www.fusionhobbies.com/results/1/1/21?sCriteria=step+screw&sSearchButton=Go&sSearch=Search
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If you describe the spec of BA10, BA11 you may find a few members willing to send you some ?
I'm assuming these are step screws of some description, although i don't recognise BA10/11 as screw designations for the older Blackfoot, King Blackfoot
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Dependent upon the final metal polish used you can keep the oxidation at bay for many years if its not run, or only run in dry conditions. I dragged a SRB chassis from the house attic last week; this one was half heartedly polished about 5 years ago (intention was to do more polishing but other projects got in the way , and family life ! ). Probably less than an hours work on the arms, knuckles, uprights and tubes - the uprights clearly need more work , and other parts could be better but at the time i was keen to mock the chassis up as inspiration to progress further..
Its not exactly been exposed to the elements but there's very little change in the shine over the storage period.
This one will be stripped down again, the ball diff and brushless motor moved to another build, parts polished a little more and rebuilt pretty stock spec.
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Radshape RC SRB chassis plate arrived today
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The problem with polishing is that once you start its almost a point of no return, you have to do the lot - there are some great examples in the showrooms of members with very highly polished metal parts - don;t under estimate the time it takes. And also bear in mind the castings arent the smoothest or the best quality metal so achieving a consistent look front to back takes patience, time and a bit of luck.
This is quite a good article on cleaning SRB parts https://tamiyabase.com/articles/53-how-to/188-srb-metal-cleaning-restoration
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13 hours ago, Bullitt3577 said:
Got my Super Champ rebuild almost done using a rere body, front shocks, wheels/tires and an aluminum rear bumper from Pargustore. I'm waiting on the front springs which I could have taken from my other parts car but I'm going to save that for my rough rider rebuild which will be all original minus the roof section for the body.
I had a badword of a time getting the rear center section into the tires! After a wile of swearing and sore fingers, I knew there had to be an easy fix for this. I ended up using 2 plastic scrapers that were almost the width of the wheel and used that to spread the rubber apart while I pushed the wheel down between the scrapers. Took a few seconds and they were in! Now I just have to decide on paint color, not sure if I want box art or something else?
I remember doing my first set of 1.5" SRB wheels, 6 years ago, and struggling with those centre inserts - but I've built up a set of 1.7" and 1.5" last week with no problems whatsoever - just pushed the insert into the centre hole until about 45% in and rotated into the far side tyre wall, pushed a little more and popped the near side tyre wall over the insert. Perhaps I got lucky last week lol!
Saw this Toyota iQ yesterday, started thinking the colour might look OK on a SC / FB shell with the red orange yellow decals
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Some of the rear link upgrade kits actually give no more articulation than the stock plastic items. Tamiyas hop up suspension extenders
are basically little hinged platforms that give 5-6mm extra movement each side at the shock top mount.
The CC-01 goes together very quickly, there's not that many parts once you have the axles built.
Kong tyres make a big difference for trail running, less so in dry to moist dusty earth.
Alloy steering upgrade is very worthwhile, as are alloy steering linkages;
alloy uprights and steering knuckles if you fancy them, and universal driveshafts - none are essential initially..
Some people modify the block at the front of the chassis tub so it catches on obstacles less - i went with the Gmade lower bash plate which deflects the chassis over tree roots.
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On 24/09/2017 at 4:09 AM, Crash Cramer said:
Is that truly a question or more of a lament that you might have that many spares??? I do have some SuperChamp bits here NIP, so if you want to see about more...
Cheers Chris - I'm probably OK on the vintage spares for the SC - I gathered it together about 6 years ago, but never got round to the project.
Had a spending spree on re-re parts for other SRB builds though - once i'd sorted the combined international postage i sort of got carried away and ended up with 50% of a fighting buggy lol!
As a result I decided I'd better get organised, and started an excel spreadsheet for what now looks like the SuperChamp rebuild, a Fighting Buggy build, a brushless Scorcher build and a stock Rough Rider build. I'm convincing myself its the best way to use the parts up lol!
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Any progress Max ?
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Hi-Caps are lovely things to hold, build and admire - they look so rights on any model
Good to hear you are enjoying the TR again after some initial frustrations.
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Typical outdoor UK track..
Indoor tracks can be tighter as they are often held in village halls at local club level, or larger halls for national events..
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Plenty of spares available, thanks to sharing a lot with other chassis' types
Never really been a fan of the FF chassis personally - steering and driving the same wheels doesn't quite have the right balance for my taste. An M chassis is much more nimble but then it's smaller too.
And yes, you are limited on body styles, needing passenger car shells with a fairly high bonnet like the VW Golf Mk4, Subaru Imprezza
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DT-02 has the advantage there are numerous models available with increasing standard kit, which if you are in the habit of hopping up cars isn't a bad way to start and save money overall. The -02 also has lots of things you can tinker with over time, swapping the front arms over to increase wheelbase for instance.
The DT-03 is pretty narrow but well packaged - with a shorty lipo pack you can play around with the weight distribution somewhat (ditto the DT-02).
Both kits go together quickly, the servo is more accesible on the -02 once built, so if you do need to replace or upgrade it's much quicker swap over.
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Set of 4 Pro Line PL6194 foam inserts
Perfect fit for the Lunchbox, Pumpkin, Mad Bull and Wild Willy 2 tyres - improved handling, keeping the tyre more stable
THE accepted insert
Only one of these was test fitted to my son's lunchbox - he lost interest mid build, so these were put in the kit box for 8 months and have only now resurfaced as he wanted to sell the Lunchie.
Out of packet but as new
A set of four is just shy of £25 posted from UK retailers
Sold
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I have a new in packet chassis plate - PM me if you're interested
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On 9/24/2017 at 4:09 AM, Crash Cramer said:
Is that truly a question or more of a lament that you might have that many spares??? I do have some SuperChamp bits here NIP, so if you want to see about more...
Not that many spares lol!
I still have a complete SuperChamp awaiting a clean and rebuild.
Just trying to sort out what to do..
> SuperChamp complete
> Rough Rider - rebuilt a few years ago with brushless and ball diff (never powered up)
> Spare vintage gear cases
> Spare new gear cases
> Complete rear end from a Fighting Buggy bar the gear box
> Pargu bklack anodized super champ chassis plates upper and lower
> Various super champ chassis parts / spacers etc
So thoughts are to
1. leave the original super champ as is
2. put the rough rider back to a silver can and gears
3. take the ball diff to the new gearcases and build it up with the pargu chassis plates and fighting buggy rear end.
Then see what else i need to build up another
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Started looking at all my SRB spares, wondering if there is enough for a scorcher and a superchamp - hmmm
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might need the odd upgrade, but it come ready built with bearings..
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TB-01 is built like a brick outhose, but isn;t the lightest chassis as a result. You may be able to pick one up cheaply used.
You could start with a TT-01 used, or a TT-02 new starter kit (part build chassis, no body) or any TT-02 with a body you like / need for the speed element. You may well find you have to upgrade a fair bit on a new TT-02 though for any reliability witha big motor.
The good 'ole TL-01 is pretty crude but it get the job done with steel drive cups/dogbones and prop.
All depends on your budget and how much you want to throw at it in upgrades.
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You can view the manual here (if not available for download on TamiyaUSA site)... https://www.yumpu.com/xx/document/view/51261621/tamiya-avante-2001-manual-wheelsacademyinfo
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If its a restriction in the drivetrain then the motor and ESC should get hot pretty quickly, maybe even thermal trip the ESC ?
You could test the driveltrain by supporting the chassis and just turning each wheel individually by hand to check each diff, and by turning a pair at a time to check the front to back transmission
If its used it could have anythign in the way of grease - ive bought cars with auto gearbox grease in, thick ceramic grease and far worse lol!
What pinion is it running ? It's 20T for stock motor
Pinion / spur gear interaction - too tight ? Probably not if you've changed motors.
How well does the motor spin when out of the car but powered by the ESC (ie in full radio mode but not actually powering the drivetrain ) ?
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Can you get a spacer plate under the gearbox to raise the unit and motor up enough for clearance ?
Not exactly ideal moving centre of gravity upwards but if it means going forward 15mm then it might be a price worth paying.
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Where to find misc. hardware for custom builds
in General discussions
Posted
So you want 3 x 32mm screw pins, (19805756), 3 x 22mm screw pins (19805755) - fusion list both those in packs of 4 ..
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/9805756-tamiya-3x32mm-screw-pin-x4
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/9805755-tamiya-3x22mm-screw-pin-x4
I might even have a load of them, i'll have a look .