Theibault

It's been my experience that trying to save time with what you are asking for usually results in actually costing you more time. Just strip the paint lol. If you insist, spray some TS-80 Flat Clear over the paint. It's safe on most paints as long as they have already cured. Maybe test on a little corner if you are concerned.

You are missing the point. There are no issues building a Blackfoot. It goes together like any other Tamiya kit. The old RC-10 required a bit of work fixing little tolerance issues and such during the build stage. Now when it comes to running them, some people had issues with how the BF ran. The RC-10's ran fantastic and still do, once built properly. These are two different things people complain about. I personally have always been pleased with my BFs, both original and re re, partly because I've rarely had issues with them. I also don't over power them (but I could if I wanted now thanks to MIP).

It's easier for me to get Schumacher cars and parts here then it is to get Tamiya. Go figure lol.

My advice would be to buy a good set. I have had my MIP set for almost 20 years now. Well worth the cost. I believe in having good tools. Don't but cheap hex wrenches.

A little fun on the trails today with some friends.

It's just an adapter type. You can always just buy an XT-60 lead for your charger. I personally solder up my own if I don't have a connector. PS, if you are going to be in this hobby for a little while, I highly encourage you to buy a decent soldering iron and learn to solder if you haven't already. Soldering is a must have skill in this hobby and honestly very easy to learn.

My advice is to skip NiMh packs and go LiPo. Regarding connectors, almost everything I have is Deans on my cars, but were they available when I started, I would in hindsight go XT-60 connectors. They are better than Deans in every way. I use them exclusively on all my FPV quads.

Lack of parts support outside Japan and not using hex screws (other than TRF). Actually, I take those two back. My number one gripe is lack of a 959/Celica re re.

For the record, the ribbed tires will work better in sand, preference in looks not withstanding lol.

This is typical of any trail rig with locked diffs. You can always unlock the front diff for a better turning radius but it won't climb over anything then lol.

Hello and welcome! We love pics, so please post them if you get a chance.

Not a Tamiya but I had too much fun not to share this.

Now it looks like a real rally car. You need to glue those tires lol.

In my 32 years of buying and building Tamiya kits, I have yet to get one with a production problem. Honestly, I am shocked by it. First in quality, I say yes. I build tons of other brands kits, and nothing comes close to run of good fortune I've had with Tamiya. The last 4 out of 5 Associated kits I've built have had a missing part or a mangled in production piece. Maybe I've been lucky, but we are talking almost 200 kits in 32 years, so they must be doing something right.

Love mine. One of my favorite runners. Looks nice in that color.

Try a high lift.

Mesh? For what? I'd use some plastic plate to fill in the holes.

You might as well fill in those holes in the body now. Would look so much better.

I don't clear windows. PS, I don't clear coat lexane bodies.

Depends on the person. Some do and some don't. I personally like to clear coat my hard bodies.

Don't know of any that are already on the market. Try mciracing.ca. They do custom work too.

The first day it felt like summer is almost here in Colorado. Great day to play on the rocks with the CR-01.

Just did a full length slow motion video with my Wild One. It's in the YouTubed! thread as I didn't want to spam the video all over lol. Here's a pic from said video.

I feel that this site is getting more traffic than ever. Granted, old members come and go but I see a lot of new users that have joined lately and the posts pile up. Maybe Netsmith or Twinset can chime in on our perceptions.

I'm with you on the ease of doing it this way. Generally, you paint darker first then lighter, so not sure why Tamiya have this in reverse order as I assume your roof will be white.