shawn67mustang

Why: Because the front suspension is the weak link! First I simply removed ALL front suspension components. Second started digging around my Vast collection of JUNK !RC10T2 parts ..... Hmmmm. Found the RC10T2 uses the same shaft size as the KB for mounting suspension arms!!! Mounted the 30deg caster blocks and stock steering knuckles with REAR RC10T2 arms to the front end using the Tamiya screw pins. Moves beautiful! What to do for the upper control arms/links.... Threaded rod? Yup some 4-40 rod and ball links work great. Oops just noticed a problem, the steering knuckle wont turn far enough. Cut off the stop on the knuckle and lots of movement! Hopefully not too much Well It would appear that I also don't like the steering linkage! RC10 to the rescue again. The steering bell crank setup works great for this. Take a piece of aluminum long enough to go from the front of the chassis all the way back to the mounting point of the cover. Make it wide enough (about 1/2 inch wider than between the chassis. Bend the aluminum piece a 1/4 inch each side length wise. Now drill holes for it to mount with the stock chassis screws. Place the bell crank where it will turn without hitting the front tower/chassis/etc. Drill the holes for it and mount it. Mount the servo to your new aluminum piece using servo tape. Last but not least make your tie rods. The only problem I still have on mine is toe-in when suspension is compressed. The toe-in is not as bad as the stock setup was. Please give your opinions, comments, and questions

CRP adjustable motor mount works very well with the frog, or any other Vintage ORV chassis buggys/trucks. Found a picture of the mount on the bay(too lazy to pull mine apart ). Simple setup, just use your stock motor mounting screw for the front screw (closest to the chassis). use two other flat head screws for the mount to motor (m3 X 4mm i think for the short one)(m3 X 30 should work for the other one) and of course a metric pan head and lock nut for the adjustment position. If you do all this and it still doesn't work then email me for my address and donate it to a good cause ME.

Here is a new set of RRP-5011 Blackfoot universals that I scored off of the Bay!

Here is some more information on this diff. I got very lucky and found both gears NIB at a hobby shop (score!). If you need telescoping shafts/sliders like I do then use losi grey sliders. part numbers are a3013 for buggy and A3025 for LXT there may be other part numbers as well. I suggest old hobby store stock for the sliders or eBay.

Did a little research and found what your looking for. http://parts.bruiserbuilder.com/category_s/53.htm Have fun!

If you have some thick clear plastic and a way to cut it (dremel) then you can make a clear cover so you can also see your pinior to spur gear mesh. You may have to play with the fit to make sure it keeps out dust. Also some times eBay has OEM or after market.

I agree stick with the brass pinion. In the 80's I raced my blackfoot with a thorp diff and the 10t brass pinion. The gears where constantly abused by a 12t triple hand wound Birdman motor

Alistair G. is correct.. In automotive industry we lightly sand and then polish clear plastic headlamps all the time. Same concept only we finish with UV protectant. Be patient and you will prevail! Sincerely, Shawn C.

These rubber plugs are common to the Vintage Hilux, Blazer, Bruiser, and Mountaineer. The New Hilux uses a different transmission and does not use these plugs. My suggestion is to find a temporary replacement for them. Possible something from the local hardware store. And start watching eBay auctions. They come up from time to time on eBay. Good luck.

Please add you knowlege: Pictures. Data sheets. build sheets. any sheets Tooth count and pitch. Ill add some pictures of mine taken apart later. Here are some pictures I have found from the web.