aldebaran
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Posts posted by aldebaran
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That's pretty neat man. What is the TT01 upgrade? I don't know what else to do to this car besides give it a more powerfull motor. Would a Lipo do anything speed wise?
TT-01 is my R/C on-road chassis which I'm swapping out plastic parts for aluminum. I currently have a Ferrari F430 outershell and getting two Lambo Gallardo bodies for back up.
The LiPo battery will give you a much longer run time. If you want speed, you should look at a brushless motor.
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No problem. I'm usually done once I drain the battery.
I've also recently completed my HotShot refurbishment. Re-oiled all the bearings, replaced the cracked front and rear gearboxes and put brand new shocks in. I'm tackling the TT-01 upgrade tonight.
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Correct me if I got this wrong- every time you change/take the batt out you will need to replace the screw that holds on of the doors that hold the battery in place?
Well, you just unscrew it then screw it back on when you're done. The clips don't sound so bad after all. I typically leave my battery in and don't bother to swap, too much hassle.
Remove this screw.
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Than you'd never have to fiddle around with those little clips anymore too.
It is actually an officially recommended procedure specified in the hop up kit. You will have to replace the screw after swapping batteries.
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The way to remove the battery with the Supershot undercarriage plate installed is to unscrew one of the battery side holders, pivot it aside and slide the battery out sideways.
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also what about lipo i have been reading about it but i am unsure of what to use or where to get it from???
Lithium Polymer - LiPo (battery)
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Thanks for the heads-up; although it looked a bit of an abortion to my eyes andnot something I'd have thought tamiya would be proud of.
I saved the box from my upgrade 24 years ago. Here's proof!
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The new gearboxes allow more room to fit the e-clips over the output shafts, so if you intend to re-use the original c-clips, put a small metal washer over one shaft to take up the slack. Otherwise you will intermittently lose power to the wheels whilst the differentials slip.
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The rear shock tower is an original HotShot suspension hop up, so that's worth keeping.
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Hi all, I'm new on this site. I've recently found my vintage 1985 HotShot in my parents' attic after it went into storage in 1992. The front and rear gearboxes are new but the rest of the car is original. Very excited about Tamiya's re-release of the kit as I am now able to get parts to restore it. In fact I bought a full kit today just so I'll have spares for the future; and a lot more economical than buying them piecemeal.
Here are some recent pictures taken of my HotShot:
With my Tundra 4x4 (2009 vintage). The HotShot has the Supershot hopup suspension and the undercarriage protector plate.
Took it for a test run and the brittle plastic eyelets on the coilovers broke. Fortunately I found suitable modern replacements at a local hobby shop. I'll have to replace the front ones soon as I'm sure they are on the verge of breaking too.
I even found the box containing the original monoshocks.
The new gearboxes allow more room to fit the e-clips over the output shafts, so if you intend to use the original c-clips, put a small metal washer over one shaft to take up the slack. Otherwise you will intermittently lose power to the wheels whilst the differentials slip.
Drift Car
in General discussions
Posted
That is the point exactly. When the differentials are locked, the two wheels on the same axle will move in the same direction.
I took my non-drift car through its paces yesterday and it oversteered too much, making huge arcs around pylons. I was side swiping my furniture left and right. I have a locked rear differential on order and I'll see how much it helps.
What might help even more is to disable AWD and lay down power only to the rear tires.