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yogi-bear

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About yogi-bear

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  1. did some testing with a 3D printed multi-part mold of a Marui Hunter Prototype body that @silvertriple had drawn up in Fusion360. The Body has under hangs along the side, so a one piece mold won't work. For this test I used PLA+ for the mold and 0.75 mm for the body, the next test I will use ABS for the mold and body. I have a video on my thread about vac forming,
  2. ok, some more minor updates. @silvertriple has been 3D modelling the Hunter Prototype body and kindly sent me a file 3D for printing. The body has under hangs on each side, so in order to vac form properly one option is to have the mold in a couple of pieces for easy removable. So this is a test of that. Silvertriple set it up so it's in 5 pieces. Two side pods, a front and back and a connector underneath. As it's only a test, I printing this at a smaller scale to save on filament and in PLA+. I'll only really get one or two goes, but it should show if the concept of the mold pieces works.
  3. that 1/32 Hunter will be a pretty cool project, keen to see how it runs.
  4. from the above posts, yes you can, and I have certainly got carried away with it. I think with a minimal bit of effort, you can achieve a decent result, but it will also depend on the shell you want to copy. That video linked about, he uses a pretty basic setup too and makes his molds with wood and filler. You can get hard plaster pretty cheaply almost anywhere on the planet. A basic vacuum box is pretty easy to make with basic tools and heating you can use an oven and maybe a heat gun, be careful if using an oven that you cook with though, plastics give off fumes. The brittle plastic you mention I suspect is PET, there is PETG which is pretty tough, but not as tough as polycarbonate and it may also come down to the paint used affecting the body. I've had some other old shells I found that ended up being brittle and I also suspect they didn't have any UV inhibitor in them as well, or maybe they were PVC based. With a basic setup, I doubt you'll be doing polycarbonate though, although some YouTubers reckon they are. PC is very finicky to deal with. Another material to try is ABS, pretty strong and easy enough to vac form. Another issue you might have, is if the body has undercuts. Tamiya deal with this by having a two or 3 part mold. Thats going one hard to replicate with plaster. I have been tinkering and intend on doing this year a version where the mold has a hard centre structure and a softer silicon out shell. Its very do-able, I am just trying to get the expense down, as there are a number of shells I would like to duplicate for myself.
  5. that cover looks better on the hunter, its a shame they didn't continue with it
  6. that motor cap is looking good
  7. ok, I have some 1.5 mm polycarbonate and press brake (a manual machine to cut and fold thin metal), so thought lets give it a go! It turns out its quite easy to do, the polycarbonate doesn't mind at all, I was expecting it to go milky on the fold, but its all good,
  8. interesting concept on the chassis, is it made of acrylic?
  9. as a teenager, my first car, the Marui Galaxy, I didn't paint the wing and then when I got a Fox, I didn't paint that either. But I think in both those cases, I was too keen to get the cars on the road. These days I'd paint I think.
  10. stripped and clean my original Marui Galaxy. I still have to strip and rebuild the shocks and clean up the rims before I rebuild it. I also 3D resin printed a new wing mold that @silvertriple sent me for the same car. I'm hoping to test vac forming polycarbonate soon. I have a wooden trolley I build ages ago that I will convert into a mobile dryer for the polycarbonate.
  11. they are doing some nice stuff. that would be way more sensible. As I don't have the budget for either, I will have to settle with my Tl-01 chassis and HPI Pantera body
  12. I must admit, if money wasn't an option, I'd take a Pantera De Tomaso from the 70s (Dad had one for a couple of years when I was about 7), and install Tesla running gear. Sacrilege I know, but I suspect it would be pretty quick.
  13. me either, but have looked at a Countach kit to put on a beetle chassis, and tried to do a Canterham build with a friend, but we didn't get very far. What I did noticed though we my friend and I were looking for parts for the Canterham as lots of partial builds forsale. Projects that never got finished and had to move on at a discounted price. So that might be an avenue to save some money. And here in the land down under, there is a lot of regulations for kit cars too.
  14. Hoping you beat the odds then! I liked the idea of the Swedish Death clean, probably not to the extreme, but I think I can definitely benefit from some of the ideas, so thanks for the link.
  15. so taking the image from the catalogue and some photo @silvertriple took from the Super Wheelie Box, I started to build the artwork for a box for the Mitsubishi Jeep. And today I managed to do a test print. There is still a bit of work to do on the images, probably a bit hard to see, but up close there is still a lot of pixelation. Once the exterior is complete, there work begins on the insides.
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