jasonnewyork

Looks like everyone is out of stock on the Tamiya putty so I will order the Testors. I have a question about paint. The original Grasshopper manual suggests using Tamiya spray lacquer paint. Can I use an Acrylic paint such as Krylon? It's much cheaper to use stuff from Home Depot. Will one bond better or hold up longer?

Could I use something this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXHM03&P=7?

Sorry, my mistake . I have to look for Tamiya filler. Where can you buy Styrene sheets? Can I use some other plastic material lying around my house?

I've been trying to sell my old Grasshopper, in the FS section, but not takers. I'm thinking of restoring it as a basher for my nephews. If I do this, will need to keep costs down as I don't wish to spend a lot since a new one is so cheap. Anyway, the car currently has a GrassHopper II body. It has two cracks in the front and part of it folded under so need to build up with some filler. I would like to sand down and repaint the shell (minus the California Rasins, don't ask). I'm not going to apply any stickers, just paint, so I need to fill in the hole in the roof where the driver's head once was. Can any of you recommend a material to build up the cracked area in the front and the screw hole on top? Please see the circled areas in the picture.

Thanks for the offer but I wanted to sell everything as a complete set.

The Great Plane Spectra airplane was sold.

My car was originally a Grasshopper. I don't remember what I bought back in the day, but ended up with Hornet shocks and Grasshopper solid axle mounting blocks, so sort of a hybrid. I currently have it up for sale on this forum, but contemplating restoring it. When I started to adding up all the parts, might be better off buying a new ghopper re-re. I can reuse my BB set, 540 motor, and radio. The radio and BB kist alone run $60US .

stu22 - I noticed the 540 motor is not aligned with the hole in the ghopper body. But I see it's aligned in Orangesport's ghopper. Got me thinking... wonder if the floating axle mounts from the Hornet caused this? OrangeSport, are you running the rigid axle mounts or the floating from the Hornet? Also stu22, the orginal "hop-up" oil shocks for the ghooper were from the Frog. I have an original ghopper manual, and list a part # and picture. These shocks mounted in the stock location and didn't require the upper Hornet mounting blocks.

Thanks for all the responses. I have a few of these solvents in my house so I will give them a try. I did use rubbing alchol in past, but never worked well. I usually ended up putting new tape on top of old tape residue. I'm hoping some of your recommendations work better.

Does anyone have an easy method to remove the tape residue that's safe on black Tamiya plastic, reciever/ESC plastics, and graphite?

I'm the PO, and yes, I "hacked" the battery cover. I was 15 at the time and my hump pack died. I never knew it would be worth anything in the future and at that age I didn't care . FYI: the motor is original with the kit. If you look refer to the instruction manual, Tamiya supplied a heat shrink wrap from the factory. The WW was marketed with a water tight chassis so the wrap sealed the cooling vents that come stamped into the side of the 540 motor. And even with my mod, the chassis was still rigid and the body didn't move around anymore than stock as the battery was sandwiched in bewteen. It worked at the time. Before selling it to HP FREAK, I considered keeping it, but finding a new hump pack is next to impossible. It's too bad there isn't a way to accomodate flat packs w/o cutting the chassis. After seeing some of HP FREAK's posts, I have the utmost confidence my old WW will be restrored to it's former glory!

I see what I have to do... and not so bad. Thanks guys.

Would it be possible to install Hornet oil shocks in the rear of a Grasshopper? Beside cutting off the cotter pin posts, was curious if the upper shock mounting blocks would interfere with the Grasshopper body. Looks like the rollbars on the ghopper body might hit these mounting blocks. Has anyone done this or know it will work or not? Would I have to trim some of the ghopper body to make it fit? This what I'm talking about (circled in red) Will it hit the body (circled in red)

This is for a vintage JRX Pro. I think the wheels are made out of nylon, but not too sure. I know this is a Tamiya forum, but do you guys know what they used back then? I watched Jang's video and read all of your suggestions. So what do you think is the best option based on the car? The reason I'm asking, looks like it's impossible/hard to find 2" x 1.5" wheels and tires for this thing, so trying to keep costs down by recycling the wheels. I found NIB Losi tires on EBay for a reasonable price, but the wheels are $70US+ with shipping . I see all the new wheels are hex drive, mine uses the old skol pin. Anyone know where to buy new wheels and/or adapters? Thanks for all your help.

The Wild Willy was sold. I'm now offerring each car separately. If you are interested in buying everything, PM me with an offer. Price Reduction.

How would you bake it, in an oven, at what temp? Is acetone ok for plasitcs? I would think it would discolor or melt the plastic?

Is there any way to unglue tires from one piece wheels? I used CA type glue around the bead.

I'm thinking of buying a Hornet Re-Re. I was curious what the run times are for a bone stock kit with 1800mah NICD, and 3000/4000mah NiMH packs?

Please note I recently updated the ad, uploaded pics. Jason

EDITED: Everything was sold.I recently unearthed my old R/C collection from my parent's attic. I was intending on restoring and eventually running my old equipment. I just came to the realization that I don't have the time, and the hobby has progressed considerably since I was last involved. I would like to sell everything, and purchase a modern car or truck. Before posting ads on Ebay and Craigslist, I figure I would offer up to the members of this forum since all of you all seem to appreciate old Tamiya kits. I also have items from other manufacturers as well. Please see my list below. I'm not looking to get rich, just a reasonable amount to put towards a new setup. Since this forum is European based, I understand many of the members are not from the USA. I never shipped anything out of the country but willing to do if not too much trouble. *** Tamiya Grashopper $50US - many updates - full ball bearings, 540 motor and hornet MSC, hornet oil shocks, Grasshopper II ABS body, worn spiked tires. The car is in average condition for it's age, 20+ years old. It runs or could be used for parts. Included is an Aristocrat HiTec 2 Channel stick radio, 75MHz. *** Team Losi Jrx-Pro $150US - pretty much bone stock. I have a slipper clutch (not installed), updated H arms in rear. Rear tires are worn down. I have extra set of front tires and some assorted spare parts. Incudes a Futaba Magnum Junior radio 75MHz, Novak T4 MOSFET speed controller, and 27T stock motor. *** Kyohso Formula One Lola Target Scotch Car $50US - this is stock except for full ball bearings. Comes with stock 540 motor, no radio. Good condition, front wing paint is flaking off. *** Protec AC/DC 15 minute fast charger with built in meter. $25US Grasshopper: Kyosho F1: Team Losi JrX-Pro: Charger: Jason

I apologize to everyone but I discovered I "modified" the chassis to accept a stick battery pack. It's been so long that I forgot I did that. Now I'm upset cause I probably ruined any value the truck had. Do any of you know where to buy an original WW chassis and top cover? Also, I stored it on it's tires, and they developed flat spots. Any good tricks to fix that?

I'm in process of rejuvenating my old R/C collection - mostly 80's Tamiya. When I put them into storage, I threw out all my batteries so need to buy new. I see N-Cd is not the battery of choice anymore. Looks like I will be buying Ni-MH instead. Can I use a charger designed for Ni-Cd batteries to charge a Ni-MH pack? It's an older (from the 80's) 15 minute quick charger with mechanical timer and ammeter. Since my original packs were 1200-1500 mAh, will it take 30 minutes or longer to charge 3000+ mAh packs?

Looks like the Carson battery is the only choice. That is crazy. What do the other members with older cars do? I see there are several older Tamiya models that only work with hump battery packs. Are you guys buying from UK dealers? I will call my local hobby store today, but not optimistic. I found this on EBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/7-2V-3300mAh-NiMH-Batt...r-/250762495591. Looks like the shop is in California. Can I use a charger designed for Ni-Cd batteries to charge a Ni-MH pack? It's an older (from the 90's) 15 minute quick charger with mechanical timer and ammeter. Since this pack is 3300mAh, will it take 30 minutes or longer to charge it?

I'm in the US, New York to be specific. I've been searching EBay, Google, etc. and can't find anything. I would rather buy from a store in the US if possible. Thanks.

I'm in the process of resurrecting my old R/C collection. I cannot find a 6 cell hump pack. Do they make them anymore? Also, I see NiMH has become the standard cell for the hobby. Can I use my older (from the late 80's) battery charger or will I need to upgrade that as well? Many thanks in advance... great to see this hobby lives on today! Jason