digitrc
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Posts posted by digitrc
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I'd like to keep the thrust race free from dirt and dust. Does anyone out there use a piece of foam, or something to keep dust out of the outdrive?
Chris, don't Tamiya supply the little pink foam wedges with the diff on that car?
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Nice job with the Meccano.
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It certainly does matter!
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Some wheel radios can be converted to left hand operation by mounting the wheel on the back of the radio... ideal for those sinister lefties!
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I never liked Pistol Grip back in the day.
Didn't feel right using one.
The 'Quick Drive' cars used them, and the proper kits seemed to have Stick type.
But nowadays, Pistol Grip seems to be the most popular choice.
Is one better than the other?
No
Or is it just a matter of preference?Cheers.
Yes.
When I first got a car 20+ years ago and went racing, EVERYONE in the UK ran sticks, it was incredibly rare to see anyone running a wheel, and all the magazine ads of the American drivers using them looked strangely exotic.
About 10 years ago, the RTR boom started. At first, a few of them came with sticks especially for the UK market, now they all come with wheels.
If you go to a race and see someone with a stick set, there's a 99% chance that they have been racing for at least 10 years. Some people have swapped over, but not many.
I can't race with a wheel but I can drive one around the garden.
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DB01 wheel won't fit without major modifications, and if you did those modifications I don't think your car would be the right width any more.
The DF-03 wheels should fit if you want to run more modern tyres.
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Now I have sorted my grip roll, but I am having sever problems with the car veering off on the straights.
I am running -
The kit bevel diff with anti wear grease
TRF shocks (front white/ red and reds on the back)
Toe in on the fronts and kit standard 1.5 degree uprights on the back.
Aluminium steering set and Savox servo.
What do people think is the main cause?, it seems only under power it does this but is very frustrating as with a Saturn 20 I can only go 60% throttle down straights on just a 3700mh NiMh! My guess is the sloppy steering but wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
PS running on carpet with 33 sweeps front and 25s on the rear.
You should be running with toe out on the front wheels. You should probably also run a harder spring on the front compared to the rear. If the diff action is too tight that can cause problems also.
You are welcome to ask my advice at the track if you want to.
Dave
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Looks authentic... like it's had 40 years working life already!
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The one-way diff is a tuning part. It can give more steering at the expense of off-power stability. For the racetrack only.
Motor-wise, a 6.5T sensored motor would be as fast as you would ever need for racing. Pinion will depend of track and ESC settings, perhaps a 19 or 20 tooth to start with. For bashing, the motor is less important, the Durga has a pretty wide range of possible gear ratios so you should be able to get anything to work OK. I wouldn't spend money on a brushed motor apart from the £10 sealed-can motors these days - too much maintenance if you want to go fast, but fine if you don't mind going slow.
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You could wire one in to the main battery wires, or plug one in to the spare slot on the receiver. I don't think it is a common modification.
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My first thought is that they are from an old Schumacher Fireblade/Cat 2000.
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Best tool for the job is a pinion puller. Fairly common among the model aircraft fraternity, I have one made by GWS.
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I'm pretty new to all this toy car business so bit of a basic question
I'm thinking about stripping down and rebuilding my 2nd hand trf415msx shocks. Think they're the kit springs so just wondering what a good starting point in shock oil weight would be. Obviously will be using new o rings and rebuilding as per instructions
#400 oil is what Tamiya suggest and that is what I would start with.
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Your handling problems sound like a general lack of grip.
You've mentioned your tyres - are you still running without cleaning them at all? That will make a difference. A can of motor spray and a paper towel or rag is so inexpensive to get hold of and it makes a real difference to the grip at the start of the race. Are you still using your home-built Sorex's with the foam inserts? If so, I suspect you are finding their limits - get a set of the pre-mounted versions which have a modern moulded insert inside.
Apart from tyres, the other most likely cause of a "mystery" handling problem is a mechanical problem with the car. If you can't work it out when the car is built - strip it right down. Double check all the bearings, double check all the moving parts, double check everything for wear or damage and re-assemble according to the kit instructions. Usually that setup is not far from what you need. You might be surprised at what problems are hidden away inside the car.
As far as driving, don't think about it too much, just do it. Practice is key and your body will learn what to do without you forcing it.
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Probably, although I couldn't be sure without having the motor in front of me.
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Increasing the timing (within limits) creates more power and more RPM at the expense of heat, efficiency and torque. Go too far with the timing and the motor won't work properly. Advancing the timing will also make the motor slower in reverse which is why it is not recommended for twin motor trucks.
Generally a brushed motor will come with a sensible timing setting out of the factory.
For a crawler, I would leave it at the zero point. For a basher/racer, usually 12 degrees advance is a good setting (advance by turning the endbell anti-clockwise as you look at it).
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I would certainly go with the M-05 over the M-03 - mainly because it is the car that is getting developments.
HOWEVER bear in mind that a straight-out-of-the-box standard M-05 has some issues with the steering design which makes it very wandery on the straights. The out-of-the-box M-03 doesn't suffer in the same way. You can solve the M-05's steering issues with some well chosen hop-ups and shimming, but if you are not keen on spending time and money on the car, and M-03 might be a bit easier to get along with.
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You can't get a 21 tooth pinion in an M-06 and the 20 is what it comes with. May as well run that. Ball diff isn't going to be as effective on the rear-drive chassis as it is on the front drive chassis. The gear diff isn't going to melt - you'll have less bother with it than with a ball diff. TRF shocks are a lot nicer than the CVAs but, again, for a non-racer you won't notice the difference.
I'm sure it will build up into a nice looking model, alloys or not!
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I'd say the Switch would be the best bet since it'd be the cheapest option with the most display adjustability (track width etc). The Cup Racer costs way too much not to run.
A front-wheel drive Stratos! Sacrilege!
It does fit the Cup Racer well, there is one running at my local club and it is a fantastic shell. I don't know how well it fits on a RWD Tamiya mini chassis (M-04, M-06) but that is what I would be looking at for a "scale" driving effect. It looks like it would need HPI's offset wheels for the right look also. ABC do a very nice RWD chassis called the "Goose" that might be worth looking at also.
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On our little track its dramatically increased tyre wear and some of the "lesser skilled" are crashing more. So now some are questioning whether it was a wise move or not.
I think a switch to the HPI Saturn 27 would be a good move. Labelled, slower, cheaper and more easily available than the Sport Tuned. Basically equivalent to a Tamiya kit motor but no opportunity to put something faster in (4-slots, 20-turns, polished sport Tuneds, vacuum cleaner motors etc.).
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When this news filtered around our club (stock Tamiya Minis) everyone went out and grabbed as many as they could find - bit of a shame really as they are old now and hard to find and IMO its not really fair (although I used one just to keep up with everyone else!)
We have now switched to Sport Tuneds which has opened a whole new can of worms!
What can of worms have you opened with the Sport Tuneds out of interest?
For what it's worth, I think that the HPI Saturn motors make a great spec motor. Easy availability in the UK, labelled so you can't cheat, very reasonable price, last ages.
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You can try but you might not be satisfied with the result!
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The Rally version has alternative holes in the hubs that allow you to mount the axles lower, increasing the ground clearance. You can build it with standard ground clearance also.
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The Cup Racer uses a slightly different sized wheel.
How to improve solid axle buggies?
in General discussions
Posted
Although I admire your ingenuity in modifying your car, I think you are approaching your quest for more performance from the wrong direction.
The simplest thing to do is to retain the 6-cell battery pack and buy a faster motor. Whereas you seem intent on adding more voltage to a slow motor, which is then ruining the cars weight distribution, which is making you seek further chassis modifications to get the handling back.