• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

76 Excellent

About Falcon#5

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/08/1977

Contact Methods

  • ICQ 0

Profile Information

  • Location Western Australia.

Recent Profile Visitors

3579 profile views
  1. Falcon#5

    Advice on airbrush for beginner

    Rattle cans and air brushes both have their place. Personally I use a combination of both. Rattle cans have the benefit of increased coverage as the fan pattern is quite broad. But an air brush with a large tip will also get a decent spread. I use liquid mask, air brush the finer details, and rattle can the large areas. But to answer the OP, I'd suggest getting a cheap dual action air brush to start with, giving it a go and see what you think. A $30 air brush isn't as good as a $300 Iwata, but spending $30 and deciding it is a path you want to pursue and then investing $300 on a decent one is better than outlaying $300 straight up and then realising it's not for you. Compressors are another item to consider too. Dedicated air brush compressors are small and quiet. While the cheaper basic workshop type are physically larger and noisy contraptions. This thread on RCTech is worth a look - https://www.rctech.net/forum/australian-racing/80896-airbrushing-art.html Has plenty of info, although a lengthy read. But worth a look just skimming through and looking at the pics. The quality and detail is amazing.
  2. Falcon#5

    Midnight pumpkin build - please help!

    I'd suggest not gluing the front tyres, and only putting a couple of small spots on the rears. Have broken a couple of front wheels on the LB, and no glue makes tyre changes a breeze No issues breaking rear wheels so far, but just in case... Sport Tuned is plenty of motor for these. Chassis braces are nice to have, and also inexpensive. 5th shock mod or fixed stay (which I prefer) is worthwhile. High torque servo saver is next on my list of mods, as i feel the stock one is too soft. But may add to the broken front wheel issue
  3. Falcon#5

    Turnip restores a Sand Scorcher for Grumpy pants

    Have you tried soaking them for a period, or only spraying? I'd recommend soaking it in a container of diesel for a week and see what happens. If your happy to sacrifice the bolt, I'd be cutting/grinding off the head and supporting the ball with a socket or something. Might be better than supporting the shock end to knock it out. Soak, heat, whack, repeat, might be the only option here. *Disclaimer* - I haven't performed this kind of work on SRB shocks, so bear no responsibility for damage, loss or personal anguish. That may come off with a soda blaster, but depends if you have access to one or the cost is worthwhile. Autosol and polishing cloth on a Dremel should work, but would be time consuming I imagine
  4. Falcon#5

    Will there be more comical re-releases?

    My money is on the Hornet next, then the Frog, followed by the Fox.
  5. Falcon#5

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I thought Tony disappeared a long time ago?
  6. Spaztix Real Chrome I think it's called. Lay a base of black, then multiple coats of chrome (airbrushed), the lighter the coats the better. I have seen mirror finishes using it, but something I haven't mastered yet
  7. Nooooo!!!!! Clear coat that bad boy as is! Dress the Lunchy to match
  8. Falcon#5

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Why isn't there a 'love' button to react with?!
  9. Falcon#5

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    That's a shame, great looking piece. Jeez, how cold is it??!!
  10. Falcon#5

    M05 Traction Issue

    There's nothing that can be done to circumvent physics. Get two cars (RC or 1:1), all things being equal - bar one fwd and one rwd. The fwd will get more wheel spin on acceleration. Check out this link. https://www.mini-nats.com/rc-mini-net/ Mini gurus. They used to race Mini in velodromes too and have broken the 100kph barrier. My M03 is race spec, running on a smooth high grip track and there is no way to combat wheel spin except with smooth and controlled throttle input. Mini is up there as one of my favourite classes to race, and their quirks are what I find enjoyable.
  11. Falcon#5

    So...I found this on the "LetGo" app...

    Any updates on this?
  12. Good point. But if you swap the motor wires around you will then need to reverse the throttle setting to make it go forward with forward throttle input? Are we both right?
  13. Falcon#5

    Short Course Trucks - Recommendations?

    I'd recommend one of the 'race' grade trucks purchased second hand. Let someone else buy the new kit, hop-ups, spares and sell it at a substantial loss. Losi XXX-SCT was the first one I bought. Brushed RTR. (new) Changed springs, shock oil weight, fitted rear sway bar, and filled diff with oil. Solid and easy to drive truck. Brushed motor burned out and fitted 9T BL. That was fun! Now has a 10.5T BL. Next was a TLR 22SCT (pre-ordered before release) Can't remember exactly what hop-ups are fitted off the top of my head, but spent a lot on it 10.5T BL, fantastic truck. Favourite one. AE SC10 (second hand) A few hop ups - nothing substantial. 10.5T BL. I'd rate it similar to the XXX-SCT. Hobao (OFNA) Hyper 10SC (second hand) wouldn't buy another. Losi SCTE (second hand) fully hopped up, National Title winning chassis - but wasn't me driving it . Awesome truck. The last two 4wd obviously and completely different beasts. 2wd SCT is great fun, competitive shoulder to shoulder racing. A well vented body is a must to reduce parachuting, but can make them flimsy. Ask five people what brand they prefer, and you'd probably get five different answers. Local parts support should be a consideration in what brand you go with.
  14. If you reverse the throttle on your radio, you should have brakes when going forward.
  15. Falcon#5

    So...I found this on the "LetGo" app...

    Nice work. I've never used that before, but will definitely give it a go now.