Thommo

Agree… I destroyed the fronts and found 501X Carbon Reinforced front arms. BITD you could get carbon reinforced everything for DB01.

Not quite…. If you have a higher rpm motor with more torque you can run a taller gear ratio and go faster. Brushless motors for example, this is the case. if you have a high rpm motor with similar torque, you should gear down with a smaller pinion to optimise the power of the motor which keeps the motor temp down. Note Tamiya use “HOT” warning stickers on all electric models. They can’t suggest gear ratios that raise the motor temp. Then they would need a “MORE HOT” sticker. 🔥

It’s the stock 77T spur. An alloy motor mount is a good idea and swap out the aluminium idler gear for the one in the touring car set. Check your pinion mesh with the gearbox lid off and make sure you don’t strip any screw threads in that gearbox. = happy times…

Agree…. high speed gear set will raise motor temps with a Super Stock. Get the standard touring car gear set and use the idler and spur.

Love the rear 1/4 photos and 2 colour painted is very smart. 👊🏻

I can see my LHS getting some very suspicious drive by’s…

After reading all of the responses, I am leaning towards a Top Force. Funny thing is...... I wasn't looking for anything before this !

This thread reminded me of the Blazing Star… Not helpful now with no re-release but up to about 2013 you could still get one for peanuts. With CC01 tyres in the kit, it was a neighbourhood beast out of the box..

Yes, the upper arm hinging on shafts gives integrity to the whole assembly. Replacing the hinge with a ball nut on one end or both ends allows the hub to rotate as the lower arm twists. Astute B3 / B5 parts are rare but they are never cracked or broken. Sufficient but the OG Madcap upper arms are the same soft plastic, so still have some twist. Brilliant ! The torque twist is easy to demonstrate but difficult to explain... Have a look at those B3 / B5 parts, clearance with the rear dampers and the gear cover on the right side are critical.

This is a variation using trimmed Madcap rear hubs, same principal. Earlier in my thread you can see where I used Madcap rear arms and a ball nut on the outer adjuster which was a half measure improvement.

I’m glad you asked. Check out the original 1989 Astute kit parts with unique adjusters on 4mm threaded shaft. I know this arrangement will direct fit, work with your hubs and reduce the torque reaction through the arm on power. Note that both Madcap and Astute with the soft arms both have the upper arm pivot on a shaft, preventing the whole assembly from twisting. The Super Astute arms are much harder which allows the conventional ball ends and adjuster. I’ll link one of my posts that is similar as a close reference but I think both Astute adjuster ends for the Xtra Speed hubs.

Quality and class for sure. Interesting choice of upper links with the very flexible Madcap rear suspension arms. Twist the rear hub and see, I would expect a lot of torque twisting on power with this set up. Sometimes that’s desirable for a very low grip surface.

Had to ask, just in case. I’ve built the Avante and VQS Hop Ups and OG hi-caps but always put the caps on with the piston fully down. The red bladders tip easily so I’ve also popped the bladder into the cap first and then screwed it down.

Does your build method include dropping the piston and shaft into the damper body first, then sliding the seals over the threaded part of the shaft before loading them into the chamber. Its not so clear in the instructions but loading the seals into the chamber first and then forcing the threaded shaft through can damage the seals.

Yeah I agree... I should have put FYI only at the beginning of that sentence . I've actually got a 21t / 22t new in pack, too scared to open it.