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Thommo

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About Thommo

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    Perth Western Australia

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  1. Hi @Juhunio I would encourage the Egress set up with no spacers inside or outside of the cylinder for your Super Astute. Unless....you would only use spacers inside the cylinder if you want to reduce the ride height. Is the Top Force Hi-Cap rear piston rod the same length as the Egress ? If it is then it's a perfect match for Hi-Caps going into the rear of a Super Astute. I'll also check out my OG SA manual as I think it has build instructions for Hop Up (Hi-Cap Dampers) and report back !
  2. Check out Canine Intervention on Netflix ! It's more specifically about correcting behavioural issues in dogs but the philosophies and techniques are brilliant. You pretty quickly work out that the same techniques work for the majority of doggy problems. Consistency is the key with any dog training and correction straight away with a firm NO within 2 seconds. Then encourage the desired behaviour and positively reinforce the good behaviour with a reward that suits the dogs personality so a treat for a food driven dog or a play with a play driven dog or a cuddle for an affectionate dog. Getting to know your dog and work with your dogs personality type will get their training to the next level ! As above @Robert5000 mentioned : Take away the item you don't want chewed and substitute in something that they are allowed to chew...... then positively reinforce chewing the right thing is a good behaviour. This especially works with playful chewing and pretty soon your dog will go and get his allowed chew toy and bring it to you when he wants to tug or playful chew. It's a eureka moment when they start bringing the desired chew toy to you instead of eating a skirting board or a door. Enjoy that puppy and yes..... post a photo !
  3. Very impressive stuff and great to see the Top Force universals mod, I'm really pleased you're trying it out. On that front there are no issues to date for me so far. I do have the pink neoprene bushes in mine but my SA had been running previously with them and the stock drive shafts. I guess the pink bushes were already squished from use and there was no binding. Neutral rear camber helps which yours does look to be spot on.
  4. Yeah and I would go for alloy hubs and you need the correct step screw / king pin because they are a different size to the TA02. Swapping to Top Force hubs is critical to match the DF01 / Top Force drive shaft length.
  5. Blitzer rear wheels will work, just gear down to 16t pinion (steel). I suggest some top force universals or after market ones and alloy top force front hubs and 1150 bearings. The TA02 rear hubs work fine, the front ones will not.
  6. Here's a couple to check out ! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=120695&id=35714 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117860&id=35714
  7. No, it's still on the wish list. It would be a luxury and would tempt me to start building another Astute with the replaced chassis... I have another project in mind so I have a decision to make. 😀
  8. Yeah got me wondering too... do you trim back the nib inside the recess first or just jam it in there ?
  9. Does it specifically have to be a Holiday Buggy ? You know it would go faster with a Sand Viper body especially if it was red ! The front of the Holiday Buggy lifts at speed once a bit of airflow gets under those guards.
  10. My Bored ! TC Comp entry from 2020
  11. Nice ! I wouldn't worry about finding more problems, you seem to have all of the usual TA02 rebuild problems covered ! I see your thread and totally regret selling my last TA02 Rally (Celica), they really are such a cool chassis.... The original 4 slot Johnson motor is a strong motor too.
  12. Re-check pinion and spur mesh and see that there is no grit or dirt stuck in between spur gear teeth. It's more likely the mesh between the pinion and spur than the counter gear. My SA 2018 slipper shaft had some end float so the slipper shaft and spur would walk across the pinion, changing the mesh. Try some shims behind the white plastic washer on the back of the gearbox slipper shaft to minimise the end float. Check that the plastic insert in the back of the gearbox is correctly located too. This worked for me. Good Luck ! PS: I'll take a look.... it might have even been a washer in there rather than shims !
  13. Great mods and good luck with the rest of the build. RE : Blitzer rear arm mounts, I'm pretty sure the rear screw for each one can only be a screw into the plastic (no lock nut) to give clearance for the gearbox out-drives when they are fitted. You don't want the screw protruding either for the same reason. I hope this is helpful !
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