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Thommo

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About Thommo

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    Perth Western Australia

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  1. You would be better to use ball diff grease which is specifically for ball diffs and the amount on the balls and side plates is minute, just coated with no excess. This helps the balls to grip the plate and not slide over the surface of the plate. The plates are slightly rounded on one side from being pressed. Make sure the flat side of the plate is contacting the balls. Use at least one pair of shims (one each side) or two pairs of shims (two each side) and yes nip up the bolts and don't over tighten. Use thread lock so they stay secure. The diff action can feel a bit rough but I'm sure it will work alright with the right grease.
  2. Great potential ! One thing that I can tell you is that (without the Astute under-tray and sometimes even with the Astute under-tray) the battery is going to fly out the side of the car the first time you roll it or miss a jump. Battery security is inadequate for hard running with just the standard Astute battery holder. You have an OG Super Astute chassis there with the extra holes for Super Astute battery holder and that is the solution as per Tamiya's fix with the Super Astute. Also I would recommend using the OG Astute motor mount plate and a very well built diff that is not over tightened if using a powerful motor. A silver can or GT Tuned motor on 2S is enough fun without over stressing the diff if you want a reliable runner.
  3. FRP - Fibre Reinforced Plastic. Its more like fibreglass !
  4. Let's wait and see what develops at Guildford first. That was by far the best local spot that I've ever run at. I really don't like limestone tracks or the super fine black dust tracks..... the clean up takes longer than the running !
  5. When it stops leaking out, you've got the right amount on the gears I like the gasket idea.... Love your work !
  6. For me the give away that this is a middle of the road level buggy is the Star Dish wheels and Square Spike tyres.....
  7. I got ORB 3D printed parts for the use of locking hex nuts in the bulkheads and before the 2018 SA was released any D parts you could find were 30 years old and brittle. I would happily use D parts from the 2018 SA. It was more about parts availability and doing away with the press nuts at the time !
  8. I just had a closer look at my re-re and their is a gap when the car is at rest, suspension arms horizontal. It's literally a paper thin gap so folded the paper in half and it still slips into the gap without resistance.
  9. Flip your top damper mount screws on the rear dampers so the nut is protruding at the back and not the front. This helps with body fitment . You do get used to how to easiest fit the body with practice. You settle the rear first over the under tray then drag the nose into place. If you move your lower damper mounts to the outer position you improve the body clearance at the rear. Move the front dampers to the outer position too though. Your c.o.g will be lower and it maximises up stroke in this position. Also less angle on your driveshafts. Give these a try, I think you'll get a little improvement.
  10. Hi @Juhunio I would encourage the Egress set up with no spacers inside or outside of the cylinder for your Super Astute. Unless....you would only use spacers inside the cylinder if you want to reduce the ride height. Is the Top Force Hi-Cap rear piston rod the same length as the Egress ? If it is then it's a perfect match for Hi-Caps going into the rear of a Super Astute. I'll also check out my OG SA manual as I think it has build instructions for Hop Up (Hi-Cap Dampers) and report back !
  11. Check out Canine Intervention on Netflix ! It's more specifically about correcting behavioural issues in dogs but the philosophies and techniques are brilliant. You pretty quickly work out that the same techniques work for the majority of doggy problems. Consistency is the key with any dog training and correction straight away with a firm NO within 2 seconds. Then encourage the desired behaviour and positively reinforce the good behaviour with a reward that suits the dogs personality so a treat for a food driven dog or a play with a play driven dog or a cuddle for an affectionate dog. Getting to know your dog and work with your dogs personality type will get their training to the next level ! As above @Robert5000 mentioned : Take away the item you don't want chewed and substitute in something that they are allowed to chew...... then positively reinforce chewing the right thing is a good behaviour. This especially works with playful chewing and pretty soon your dog will go and get his allowed chew toy and bring it to you when he wants to tug or playful chew. It's a eureka moment when they start bringing the desired chew toy to you instead of eating a skirting board or a door. Enjoy that puppy and yes..... post a photo !
  12. Very impressive stuff and great to see the Top Force universals mod, I'm really pleased you're trying it out. On that front there are no issues to date for me so far. I do have the pink neoprene bushes in mine but my SA had been running previously with them and the stock drive shafts. I guess the pink bushes were already squished from use and there was no binding. Neutral rear camber helps which yours does look to be spot on.
  13. Yeah and I would go for alloy hubs and you need the correct step screw / king pin because they are a different size to the TA02. Swapping to Top Force hubs is critical to match the DF01 / Top Force drive shaft length.
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