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Thommo

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Everything posted by Thommo

  1. Forever with us in RC. I still have some Panda Grafix sticker sets and had some great chats with Willy. Super helpful guy that will be missed. Thank you @kiasukid for giving notice.
  2. I'm interested.... will you then need to also swap universal or driveshafts ? I think the Top Force hub inner is 1mm deeper than the SA hub.
  3. This is one of the first threads I checked out on TC when I discovered you Guy's in 2010. Durga was then my re-entry to Tamiya so sweet nostalgia for me, thanks ! I remember the review on Oople too https://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/ I have strong feels for this car still.
  4. Cheers ! Yeah, I've tweaked the wing position and fitted DF03 wheels and tyres on the back. Lost the Astute rear shock mount and went back to the Manta Ray rear mount and shock position. Also a pair of Top Force universal shafts to go in and then I'll post another pic. It drives amazingly well.....
  5. Almost one full rotation around the sun and I finally got out for the shakedown. Exactly as expected..... it's fast, quiet and well balanced with no issues. I'm calling this a success !
  6. So after reviewing all the content in this thread, you're statement suggests this is a normal electric motor....... I don't think our readers will believe you !
  7. Lewis Hampster or Rodent Grojean ?
  8. I heard that when the moon passes over Northamptonshire it gets closer to earth due to the gravity of that clod and when that Clod goes outside, the sun gets burnt.
  9. You are doing some hard running or running some hard springs to break the rear bulkhead. I've broken one once doing both.
  10. It's a strange marketing strategy to me. There is no "want it more with time" market...that customer already wants it ! @sosidge great comment on Japanese marketing culture, it's unique for sure.
  11. These are some good examples of why launching a product that is not available is a classic marketing fail. Tamiya have completely ignored the impulse buyer and the buy now market and so deserve to lose the battle on that front.
  12. The OG Astute body is all the way up to the rear shock tower and the repro body looks to have quite a gap there too... I use TBG bodies on my runners and they fit OK and should marry nicely with the Tamiya under tray.
  13. Suspect the body is the culprit there. The back of the side pod should be straight down and not balloon out. That's a tough one.
  14. My experience is that ultra high viscosity gear diff oil works best in these planetary gear diffs. It slows the diff action considerably more than AW grease and doesn't leak out a black mess.
  15. Thank you for the kind words. There is a lot that I really like about this and I'll contribute more when I have more time. Madcap front arms do result in a longer wheelbase also ! I always space the front upper damper mounts out by 3mm when using Madcap front arms too..... always have.
  16. I know...... I think this vid just just set me further away from the BBX
  17. Surely it's the 1992 TRF211X. The first TRF, much desired and really not that difficult to put together as a re-release....
  18. Acceptable driver as follows : * Willy * A Cowboy (with or without hat) * Any driver wearing a helmet
  19. Your location is always helpful with this type of request.
  20. Sweet CRX..... I don't think you will get any closer to gold than gold PS34 Bright Red will work, especially backed with white. Lots of time and effort into masking, paint the black detail first, then your colours and back with white.... it will be terrific !
  21. Will you make a custom body out of the shoe goo ? 😜
  22. Great thread..... I just read through 15 pages and me thinks my entry is going to be straight out of left field ! I'm going for a mid / front motor, tub chassis and my kit comes with a diff lock. It's an easy guess.
  23. Good spot on damper length, pretty sure the TA02T dampers have a longer damper shaft and taller springs than the touring cars. The front bumper is different, it's the narrow one to clear the bigger tires on turns For accuracy, you will also need TA01 or DF01 front uprights (the C hub and the steering knuckle) and importantly TA01 suspension arms (upper and lower). TA02 front uprights still work with TA02 front arms, however the wheelbase is then slightly different at the front. The TA01 parts in particular the flipped over rear suspension arms give the TA02T its unique wheelbase. Edit - Link to manual https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58495.pdf The front wheel axles are different also if you're going with the OG - TA01 front uprights.
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