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Thommo

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Everything posted by Thommo

  1. Thommo

    Kyosho Mega Motor

    These are bearings, I have already cleaned and oiled them but I suspect some grit has gotten into them causing wear. It is pretty obvious bearing noise. So the question remains, where might I get some replacement bearings?
  2. Thommo

    Kyosho Mega Motor

    I do have spare silver cans so I am only going to crack one open if I know the bushes are the same. Junk aye, well I've taken that on board and I guess hopefully I get a few more replys. I like the idea of having a period correct motor and this thing was pretty quick back in the day but I won't bother if the general consensus is don't bother.
  3. Thommo

    Kyosho Mega Motor

    Hi All, A few months ago I cleaned up a Kyosho Mega Motor 16x2 with the intention of using it in one of my vintage buggies. I cleaned and oiled the bearings but when I ran it up on 3v it was awefully noisy and I suspect the bearings are worn. Does anyone know if I can get replacement bearings or bushes and if so, where from? What are the chances of silver can bushes being the same size? Thanks.
  4. Re: adding weight, add the stick on weights to the top of the front arms as near as you can to the centre of the car (near the hinge pins) therfore adding unsprung weight. Adding weight to the chassis (sprung weight) will cause it to body roll more when cornering which is not cool.
  5. 55mm is the standard for on road, touring and some rally. The CVA mini set (front) and short set (rear) can be built to 4 different sizes. 67mm for Madcap front and 90mm for the rear.
  6. 3 Racing dampers for DB01 will fit but you will need to 3mm drill through the lower ball socket on the front dampers. I also suggest that you replace the oil and the top seal in these with the TRF417 damper top seals. The result is more effective damping and no leaks. GPM dampers from Asiatees is another good option, again the DB01 dampers are the right size. IMO the black Tamiya CVA's would look very smart. Springs need to be set hard on the rear and soft on the front.
  7. Careful, the low voltage cutoff built into Tamiya TEU104BK ESC's is set too low for Li-Po and could be unsafe. Tamiya ESC's are designed for use with Li-Fe batteries and the cutoff value is 2.5v per cell. Li-Po should be cutoff at 3v per cell. Hobbywing LVCO is a good idea IMO.
  8. Wez, this is about how far you got with the Astute wasn't it. Make sure you let us know if this one suffers the same fate!
  9. The biggest mistake in web design ever. The quickest way to get people off your site is to make it too slow to load. People generally have no patience these days and they simply will not wait. Loyal buyers like ourselves will put up with it but anyone visiting your site for the first time is already gone and they are not coming back.
  10. Wez-li congrats on the Egress pick up. This has got me amped to get off my butt and get my Egress build out of the box. Funny thing is that mine is missing the steering servo link too. I just need to find the front crossmember (behind the front bumper, the front arm hinge pins attach to it) and the steering servo link and I'm there. Please PM me if any of you Egress nuts can help with these? Mine has been boxed since March and I'm starting to think about it late at night now. Fortunately most parts including nearly all of the plastic is still available. A bit pricey to restore but well worth it aye. Good luck mate, I too will be watching this with interest.
  11. Wow, this has come a long way from being your original Vanquish from 20 years ago. It looks great, but it will certainly look much more Vanquish like with the correct body. Well done and make sure you use those spare wheels and tyres for running (Egress rear tyres are now way too rare).
  12. Sounds like a good move to me. The F-150 appeals to me for other reasons. For out of the box performance and durability, the Slash has to be miles ahead.
  13. Since recent changes to the website it seems to be taking a long time to load pages. I have tried from 2 different PC's but I'm interested to know if everyone else is experiencing the same? Cheers Stella, your still number 1.
  14. Hi isthisnametaken, Yes you should add a BEC to the TEU101BK. This is the one that I use. Just cut the two pin plug off of the ESC and solder join the micro BEC making sure to include heatshrink before you join. The micro BEC has it's own two pin plug in place of the one that you snipped off. Easy. PS: There are some negative reviews from people who have had failures in planes. I've used a couple of these now and haven't had an issue. Both worked and still work perfectly.
  15. I think this pretty much sums up where Tamiya are at with tapping into new markets.
  16. No, just buy a Blitzer like just about everyone in this thread has suggested. I'm sorry but that really did make me laugh hard. Having said that, DT02 is a very good option and they are definately tough and cheap which is the very point of the original post. Unless you find a Sand Viper, as soon as you buy oil dampers and a shell you are straight up to the cost of a Blitzer.
  17. Maybe they should, I just don't think they will or we would have seen them already.
  18. Do they? I think Tamiya would have started producing this type of rc years ago if they wanted to. They might never produce a rock racer because it just isn't their thing. Tamiya need to lift there game! Do they? I'm pretty sure if you ask them, they are quite comfortable about their place in the market. I suspect that Tamiya are probably happy continuing to do what they do best and are not too concerned about what these other manufacturers are doing because Tamiya don't make rock racers and they don't make short corse trucks.
  19. Go for it markbt73 you have a great start. Shakedown went great but not dirty enough for more pics. Mostly on short grass today with a few big bumpy hill climbs. Yes the front tyres do hit the guards sometimes but not enough to trouble with cutting back the body (once you've cut it you can't go back). Scale speed with the 35 turn motor and 16t pinion is pretty much perfect. On the hill climbs I didn't hear the motor labor once, she just powered on up. It just ate up the hills and bumps. I can't wait to show this thing some real dirt. The drivetrain is tight, smooth and quiet. Suspension doesn't work too hard, in fact I think it handles really well. On the grass I could go to either steering lock at full speed and she didn't roll at all. I can see that it might bike or roll even with a 540 in it and a grippy surface but for general 4WDing it was stable and well balanced. I used the thick spring tension collar on the rear and the thin collar on the front. Hard damper oil all round, I've started using it more as it's more viscous and less likely to leak. @ bromvw, as far as beefing up parts goes you can get all of the suspension, all of the steering, the gearbox covers, prop shaft, motor mount, driveshafts, axles and hex's all in alloy. That's nearly the whole car. Change the upper links to turnbuckles, change the wheels, tyres and body and use ball connectors wherever you can, Oh and don't forget a titanium screw set and teflon bearings. Mate, the only thing you need from this kit for your Bowler Wilcat is the chassis tub, diffs, gearsets and plastic gearbox's. You could buy them separately too and the whole thing would end up costing roughly $1000. Or just plonk the Wildcat body straight on. Seriously though, if you want performance have a look at TA Mark's wide track F-150. I will definately be converting mine to wide track later when I'm looking for something to do.
  20. Thanks again for the kind words guys. @ gozone, the original 58161 with the red gearboxes seems to be really quite popular with members as there are plenty of 58161's featured in members rides. But currently only one 58495 ever featured on the main page as NIB and only Japanscaledriver's and mine here in the forums. My guess is that most people who still have the original don't really want the re-re. I missed out on the original but I'm very happy with this re-release. Other than the blue gearboxes and ESC it is very true to the original. Rough Rider's, how funny is that! I actually thought about replacing them with Tamiya Racing Factory stickers for the same reason but decided against it to keep with the box art. The truck is plastered with sponsorship logos so maybe it is the same Rough Rider's and if so that would be very clever. This one will get it's first shakedown tomorrow so I can't wait to see how she goes. I will post some more pics of it once I get it dirty. Cheers.
  21. Congratulations on the Hot Shot & welcome aboard. This should become a very sattisfying pass time for you. Tools first. You need a good 2 point phillips head screwdriver with medium length grip, a hobby knife (exacto knife), good scissors preferably the small curved nail scissors or proper polycarbonate scissors from the hobbyshop, small pliers and small side cutting pliers. Small re-sealable plastic bags are also helpful for keeping parts orderly once the kit bags have been opened. These should be enough to get you started. Paint. Go back to the hobbyshop and get Tamiya PS paint (for polycarbonate shell) in a spray can. One can is enough and spray the inside of the shell (not the outside) with multiple light coats allowing the paint to at least cure before spraying the next coat. Tips. There are a thousand tips for improving the Hot Shot, but I suggest that you just follow the instructions very carefully and maybe organise all of the parts that are in small bags into an assortment box for easy sorting before you start building. Also prepare, paint and sticker the body first. This way when you complete the chassis and electrics you can just pop the body on and run the car straight away. Nothing worse than having a freshly built car that you can't use because you left the body until last. Good Luck & Enjoy.
  22. Didn't they just release a chrome edition Brat? I think so. Why didn't they just use the chrome shell and talk it up a bit. We would all probably eat it up as a shiny tribute with the correct decals and detail. #Edit# Now that I have seen the chrome edition Brat I am convinced that they should have offered that shell and included the lexan shell as a bonus part.
  23. Yeah re-shimming won't get the job done. You really do need to rebuild the diff completely to get it tight enough. I'm sure the Madcap will be of use to someone even as a parts donar. Stadium Blitzer/Blitzer Beetle gets my vote. Make sure you flip the steering knuckles, fit bearings, a steel pinion and just get some Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs for the back straight away.
  24. Restore the Madcap, c'mon you have a vintage model there and worth spending money on if it's reasonable. Buy diff internals from vintage tamiya-parts or ebay, rebuild the diff using two shims in each diff half. If it still slips, add another shim in each half.
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