Jump to content

Thommo

Members
  • Content Count

    1597
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Thommo

  1. So what new car are you getting?
  2. Welcome to TC, I can't help with your ESC fault however to gain full view just click Options on the top right and change the display mode to standard.
  3. Hey Kal, the use of a front one way just means the front wheels are not being driven on overrun so when you are slowing down into a corner only the rear wheels are driven and the fronts are free wheeling like a 2WD. Then when you plant the throttle the one way locks you into 4WD again. They are very simple and IMO would only be used for racing as they sharpen steering responce and stability when entering a corner. I hope this helps.
  4. OK, given all this info IMHO, Inexpensive 2WD basher = Stadium Blitzer 2010 More expensive 2WD basher/racer = TRF 201 Inexpensive 4WD basher = DB01 More expensive 4WD basher/racer = DB01R Decide if you want 2WD or 4WD first.
  5. Thanks for your input TD. Yes very helpful indeed and great job with that resto, I like. Here is where mine is at right now. The suspension and uprights are Madcap, the steering arms are from Super Astute (cut down and then shimmed), new turnbuckles and TRF201 ball cups and then ball raced original steering. Still plenty of work to do. Comments welcome.
  6. Well I think TamiyaDan's Egress Buyers Guide thread pretty much nailed how to do it. Here is a snapshot of where I'm at right now with the build. Most of the chassis parts are saved or new. I will definately be running this...gently.
  7. I have heard that you can still use your astral dish or star dish wheels and just add the correct size rubber band to the wheel beads before fitting the tyre. This is meant to take up the 1-2mm gap and also helps to prevent slippage. I saw this method posted on TC ages ago. I haven't tried this method myself so hopefully someone can clarify or reject this suggestion.
  8. +1 KalEl63 Get yourself a DB01 and the tap you need is 3mm with .05 thread pitch. Next on the list is 3 racing or RC Screwz screw set with hex head. You really need the slipper clutch and after that, how much you want to add in hop ups is up to you. The DB01 is made for brushless and the amount of extra gear you can get is amazing. You can keep it as a base runner or pimp the flippin heck out of it. Happy Birthday, I know you will enjoy whatever you choose.
  9. I have just been looking for an excuse to post my new built Durga and this is it Orange and Black on the Falcon will look sweet!
  10. I hope these images are OK. I'm new to this and still working it out. My driveshafts are standard universal and they will definately get the AW grease plus heat shrink treatment, another great tip TD.
  11. Thanks for the great write up TD, well done. I have just started my Egress build after a full strip and waiting for parts. I am now very confident that my bin find is a genuine Egress thanks to your thread. I would love to know what POSI type universals look like as the bin find does have universal joint driveshafts front and rear? Also my shock springs are an odd yellow/brown colour. I thought it was rust at first but cleaning didn't change them. Can you shed any light this? Thanks again.
  12. I would love to know how the Kamtec bodies shape up against the ***** bodies? I have no experience with either and I need bodies for my Astute and Egress builds. Box art red doesn't work for me either, it takes me ages to finalise a paint/decal scheme. Thanks for the Conrad tip, that was well worth a look. My man shed is quickly becoming a dedicated RC shed too. I even moved my baby's change table in there and converted it into a work station. And once again the postman has just walked into my office with a delivery. This time some bearings, shims, ball cups and turnbuckles from Stella. Your thread is bringing me very good fortune with the postie.
  13. That looks like a great starting point for a runner and not too many scars or road-rash either. Mtv stickers are definately period correct. If you are going to spend any money on her then definately look at the Madcap suspension, uprights and rear hubs as mentioned previously. I think TD's tips regarding dampers in the Astute Rebuild thread are spot on too. My first attempt to solve poor steering in the Astute will be Madcap suspension arms, uprights and 0 offset or neutral steering arms (the front axle pivots around the centre point). This increases the wheelbase slightly from the Astute steering arms and together with some softer dampers should make the steering more positive. I am also changing all of the tie rods to turnbuckles with ball connectors and setting neutral toe and only a degree or 2 of negative camber. Those wheels and tyres look like a great choice. Are they the same diameter as Astute/Madcap or are they the slightly bigger DT02 size? Also where did you order them from, I would like to have a look. Thanks. My Madcap "B" parts and an Astute ball connector bag just arrived from the UK as I am typing, now I can get to work on that front end! Home from work and straight to the shed.
  14. Hi Percymon. Now that you have received your Astute, are you going to post some images for us? I would be interested in how it progresses!
  15. Well done on the Astute pick up and good luck. I'm nearly sold on the Sand Viper grey speed disc wheels. They are cheap, neat and have more options for modern tyres. Yes, the kit Astute wheels are a smaller diameter. You could just fit some Hot Shot type block tyres on the rear and the front original spike tyres are still available. Then just swap to the fighter buggy wheels and compare. Once you are happy with your motor/pinion combo then the gearing will only be slightly taller with a slightly larger diameter wheel and tyre.
  16. All of the above is true in my experience. I am currently fitting out an Astute with Madcap rear suspension mounts, rear suspension arms and rear hubs. I have done this successfully before, it is a bit easier to source Madcap parts and it definately strengthens the rear. I have never tried to fit the Madcap front arms though. Can anyone advise if it is easy to change to Madcap front suspension arms and uprights and if this would help? Edit: I just found this very useful article. There are some great ideas in here for any Astute runner. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=94
  17. Sorry to quote myself! Can anyone please help me with the above question? If they do fit, how well do they fit? I am also considering tyres from J Concepts so again if they do fit, how well do they fit?
  18. +1 Fancy seeing you here! @KalEl63 congradulations on the classic vintage pick up. Please make sure to post some pics for us. I would go mild modified and custom paint for sure. HB2010 wheels with tyres are cheap as right now! Yellow shocks and wheels with a dark blue/metalic blue combo or orange/silver with the grey dish wheels for me. Dirt tuned or GT tuned motor if it's an occasional runner (people should be giving away those Avante GT tuned motors before too long).
  19. Hey KalEl63, have a good look at the link below. I think that you and others might be interested in the big red question mark. This was recently posted by Twinset and definately supports the Astute re-re rumours. Can anyone out there add to the speculation? http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp...009091524_1.jpg
  20. I must say I am envious and you have been very busy! That is a classic fail from the last builder, at least it wasn't too worn. So I imagine that lovely cabinet then would look pretty sweet from a little further back. I am building an Egress at the moment too so 79 and 80 will live right next too each other.
  21. Great job mate, I'm impressed. That is a very thorough restore and the result is fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
  22. OK thats it! I'm getting my wife to message your wife and they can work through it together. Just kidding mate.
×
×
  • Create New...