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About EddScott

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  1. As heading really. Preferably NIB but built is fine.
  2. Shell arrived last week. Very happy. Some of the parts I've bought so far. Waiting on an order from AsiaTees. Once that arrives I can start the build proper
  3. I bought a 2107 bodyshell from Ebay. I did wander if it was the same person. The 2107 shell has an equally poor finish as the Niva. Probably more so with run lines and lumps everywhere. Also weighs loads for a shell. Fits the bill perfectly.
  4. I visit Ukraine once or twice a year. My friends and I have often discussed bringing a ZIL 131 back to the UK. We think the cost of the fuel would probably be half the cost of the truck. It's more likely we'll buy a few old 2017s and see how many get back to the UK. We take loads of camera gear so the plan is a Top Gear style road trip.
  5. The one above is what I have bought. I'd like hard plastic but not at that price! I also bought a Lada 2107 from the same supplier. The 2107 shell isnt the best. Run lines, textured finish etc. Its as well finished as the car it's modelled on. In some ways it's perfect 😊 The Niva shell is much better. I've gone for 1.55 wheels and Mickey Thompson tyres which are 84mm in diameter. Not the biggest but should look more scale hopefully. Also bought the Old Man Emu dampers. Im also going to try for an interior and a driver. A GoPro mount will be needed too. The Niva will be on Ukrainian plates.
  6. Given the OPs back story, I would 100% buy an Avante. Either a 2011 or BS. If the intention is the run then perhaps the BS is the better option. I've built plenty of them over the years but personally, I don't like driving them.
  7. I've always used JAUCE. Cost wasn't so bad until Sterling dropped like a stone. Now I only buy rare stuff from Yahoo auctions. I have a Jordan 191 NIB waiting for the Parcel Force ransom note to arrive. I would add 35-40% to the winning bid for UK landed cost. I put together an Excel spreadsheet that would give a fair idea of the final prices. I was buying 4/5 cars at a time then.
  8. I'm collecting parts for a CC01 build with a Niva shell. The car is going to be built for rough-ish trail running and urban exploration. I'm not going wild with the scale look, just a little nod to scale. I also plan to take it abroad (assuming it doesn't end up weighing a ton!) The chassis is the Defender kit and so far I've bought:- 75mm GMade aeration dampers. Yeah Racing CC01 complete kit (worrying about weight and adding loads of alloy!!??) JunFac 4 link I'll be getting a JunFac prop shaft but I'm not sure of the wheelbase of the shell (Its with the painter) so will hold off on that till the shell comes back. Is it worth upgrading the transmission? Say the GPM spur kit and alloy centre gear? I've ordered a Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster Expert 540 Brushed Electric Motor 30t. I have a 55t in my SCX10 and would like the Niva a little quicker. I'm thinking the GMade dampers won't look very scale so may look at the scale looking shocks on RC4WD - the 70mm ones. Finally, I'm pondering wheel size. I'm thinking 1.55 may look more scale. With some scale looking tyres I guess. Any advice greatly received.
  9. Thanks for all the advice guys. I have thought about taking two cars but can really only carry one car and a few parts. We're on foot all day so carrying two cars and all the gear will be a pain. Will get an XV01
  10. Myself and a few friends are in the early stages of planning a gymkhana video and I'm pondering what chassis to use. The terrain will be mostly urban and some off-road. It needs to be a "car" type chassis rather than a buggy as the bodyshell is important to the video. My first thought is an XV-01. I'm not sure whether the long damper spec - or converting a chassis to long damper would be required. Does anyone have any experience with the long damper over stock? Also, is there an alternative to the XV-01 anyone can think of? Doesn't have to be Tamiya. The chassis needs to be rugged but can't be a baja or fast-ish crawler. Weight is an issue as the location is overseas and is somewhat off the beaten track.
  11. Fired up the "Mountain Pig" yesterday evening and it's spot on. Gears selected fine. Movement fine. TX is a bit cheap looking but not a show stopper. Have to say for the price and to be used to save the genuine from damage, you can't go wrong.
  12. Well my clone arrived today. All looks present and correct. One thing I have noticed is the thread is off center for the bolt that is fitted to the gearbox case cover to help set the selector servo. Not a big drama. As stated in the video posted earlier, the battery is very light and think I'll dispose of that safely rather than use it. Looking forward to giving it a test run this evening, will report back with any issues/findings.
  13. Is it IP theft? More than likely. Will it affect Tamiya sales? Very marginally. Of all the IP theft going on in China (Lepin/Lego and for the photography buffs, the 3LT copies debacle) this will probably have the least effect to the company having it's IP stolen. Imagine them selling Avante's for £150 how many of us would honestly say no? I'd have one just to save my genuine collection. The Chinese knock off industry is vast and all but impossible to control. I think they actually have a specific word for it as it's seen as completely acceptable there and is part of the culture now. Almost like the knock offs are more sort after than the genuine articles.
  14. Box wrench aside, I'm sure these things will be fine. I too ordered mine from Top Speed RC World. I will most likely strip mine down and rebuild before running it properly. I have a NIB Mountain Rider and this gives me the opportunity to run a similar RC. I've bought a fair amount of Lepin (Lego clone) over the years, mostly out of print Lego sets I'm not paying £££££ for. Other than the odd bent bit here and there, it's all been fine.
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