irocdave12

I’ve seen a little of this before. The center screw can not be too tight. The ball has to able to spin on the screw with the up and down motion of the suspension arm. If over tightened then the cup has to move up and down on the ball which will quickly cause wear in the cups and be a cause of this happening. Not sure if this is the case with your car but worth checking out

About to build a Rere MB kit so very interested in this topic. So you guys are saying tamiya rere design has a problem with the dog bones popping out at the drive cups when using the MIP diff? So if I understand this correct if MIP had the cups stick out a little longer this wouldn’t be a problem? I was looking into buying the MIP and want a good reliable car. I can certainly limit the shocks with spacers inside to not allow so much arm drop possible but I’d like to do it right. Will the old thorp and Robinson diffs still work with the rere gearboxes? I have a NOS thorp set up with telescope drive shafts so if there has been a design change to the gearbox which wouldn’t allow me to use the old parts I would think that would be a fix for the issue? What is the screw mod talked about. I never heard of it before even back in the 1980’s when I was playing with the originals Any info much appreciated

Thanks for the great info guys. Here’s what I’ve learned recently in regards to using a Lipo battery. I basically get all my stuff through Tower Hobbies here in USA. In shopping for a Lipo I keep reading customer reviews that say they can’t find anything Lipo to fit in a MB or other Tamiya buggies etc. I’m looking at options from Venom and others in a 20-25c rating and 5000mah and below. Every battery has specs saying they are 138mm in length. That’s seems to be standard for most part. However tamiya users are leaving reviews that anything over 132mm in length won’t work and that there just isn’t a Lipo short enough to fit in a Frog MB BF chassis. ?? I’m at a loss at this point. Does anyone have a link I can simply click and buy a battery that will definitely fit? Or should I just give up on the Lipo option and just get a very best in a Nimh?

Thanks I wasn’t even aware of those braces. Where can I source a set of those to buy then? Is that something that was discovered to improve the gearbox after the redesign using the dog bones? I’m just kind of surprised something like that wasn’t figured out back in the 1980’s when the gearbox’s were even more fragile. I have read that with the more powerful motors and possibly related to the MIP diff being used that people have been popping dog bones out from the rear trailing arms splaying out under load reportedly so I’m a little concerned about that becoming an issue for me if I go ahead and buy the MIP diff to install in the initial build up of the kit

Hi everyone, It’s been 10 years since I last logged onto the forum. I’m a former 1980 Tamiya kid as many of us were. I’m trying to get back into the tamiya cars again after a long hiatus to introduce my 6yr son to the world of RC. I built him a comical grasshopper as his first ride. I just bought the 2015 Monster Beetle kit. I desperately need help and advice on how to best build this thing right. I would really appreciate exact product recommendations and links. I’m looking to make it fast compared to the stock 540 motor but not insane where it breaking parts in the gearbox regularly. I think I’ll probably be buying and using the MIP ball diff. However what is the biggest mystery to me is what and if I can use a brushless set up ? If so what have others that have done similar Blackfoot/MB builds been using with success? Next question is batteries? Is there a Lipo that will fit in the MB? What should I be using for a good speed boost and long run times overalll? I know the ESC the MB comes with is brushless capable. I think it said 17.5 turn and up so I assume it means numbers higher than 17.5? I don’t have a grasp of how fast a 17.5 turn tamiya brushless motor would be. 10 years ago when I last played with RC Novak was still in business and they weren’t describing brushless in terms of motor turns like they always did with brushed motors growing up. I’m open to all thoughts and opinions including not using Lipo and brushless if thats going to be the better way to go. So please those that have been doing the Tamiya re-releases the past years with modern features please guide me and help me to make the right purchases and decisions. Thanks for any help and insight you can offer.