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TrueBlue

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About TrueBlue

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  • Birthday 06/24/1981

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    Blue.Streak@live.co.uk

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    Northampton, England

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  1. As per the title, I am after a set of 4 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg II 2.2in tyres (below), or a set of 4 Pro-Line Trencher T 2.2 Truck Tyres, for my Tamiya Aqroshot. I do know these fit the Aqroshot wheels as I've seen several photos of these tyres attached to the standard Aqroshot wheels, and I would like to upgrade the current tyres as they very little traction, pretty much on any surface. I originally purchased some Schumacher Stagger Rib tyres, that was I was led to believe would fit after reading several (other) RC forums, but unfortunately they do not fit at all as the diameter of the inner side of the tyre is far too large (I didn't know this, as I had not seen a single photo showing both sides of the tyre). So if anyone has 4 of these tyres, in good condition, they don't have to be brand new, let me know. Would prefer a UK location, but will consider anywhere in Europe as long as the price is right! Let me know what you'd like for them and we'll try to come sort of arrangement! Please and thank you!
  2. I have an HW1060 with the same issue. It goes into limp mode after a short amount of running time... and by short, I mean less than a minute. Turning it off then on again resets the ESC and it works at full speed, for another minute or so. It's definitely the ESC, I've tried it in two different cars with different motors of varying turn speeds and it has the same result. I'm considering buying the capacitor module (or maybe two, just in case) as I've just bought another HW1060, not opened yet... so hopefully I won't have a second dodgy one. One of the motors was a new 15t (HPI Firebolt) and the other was an old 21t (unknown) and the HW1060 is capable of up to (or down to?) 12t... so I'm pretty convinced here that the ESC is definitely at fault.
  3. So one of my Traxxas Rustler bodies sold, but I decided to keep the other. I am now looking for a sticker sheet for the Rustler 4x4 VXL, as Traxxas don't seem to sell them individually and can only be obtained by buying a whole body shell. The sticker sheet in question is seen in the image. No need for the body though, just the stickers. This might be a bit of a long shot, since you can't get them on their own, but I need to ask just in case someone does have them. If anyone reads this and has a spare sticker sheet they do not need, please do let me know! Please and thank you!
  4. For sale are two Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL body shells, sprayed with Tamiya Metallic Red paint. They're also on eBay, but getting no real interest there. Selling due to unfortunate imperfections while painting the body. Body Shell #1: Tamiya PS-15 Metallic Red, PS-21 Silver, backed in PS-5 Black. Body colour is fine, Silver paint when a bit lumpy while spraying. Looks and feels like sandpaper. One window decal has a crease, the other a few small bumps underneath from dirt, the front window has creases from where I applied the decal. Not instantly noticeable, but it's there. Body Shell #2: Tamiya PS-15 Metallic Red, PS-5 Black, backed in PS-1 White. Body colour is fine, white backing is also fine and smooth. Rear bed of the body in black is fine. The problem is the white stripe on the front. I shouldn't have tried to add this, the masking tape didn't stick in the grooves of the shell, and so red paint bled through. I was able to remove some, but the rest was invisible until the white was sprayed. All decals went on perfectly, no creases or anything. Not sure what to ask for these. Both shells were purchased new just a few days ago, along with the paint. Shell #1 I'll price at £12 because it has more issues than the other. Shell #2 I'll price at £20. Both Shells I'll price at £30. Shipping for an individual shell will be £6, full tracking. For both, shipping will be £8, with full tracking. Let me know which body shell number you'd like, or if you'd like both. UK only. Thanks for looking.
  5. Well, my second attempt went much better. Laid down a thin dusting first before adding each additional coat. Let the paint dry for longer. Didn't add 3 coats worth in one go. Used the soapy water method to apply the decals... it didn't make the decals slide, but did make it easier to remove them if needed. All was going well... until I wanted to do something different and added a white stripe on the front. Big mistake. Couldn't get the masking tape to stay in all the grooves, so much red paint bled through. Removed what I could, but some red was left over because I couldn't see it. After I sprayed the white, it became much clearer. Either way.. this shell is on eBay now too, lol. Not kidding either. Not happy with how either body went. Shouldn't have added that stripe, as it would have been 100% perfect for me to use, but small imperfections like that bum me out. Uh... anyone in the UK looking for a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL body?? Please tho?
  6. @rich_f Yep, found out that out when I tried it... thought I'd give it a go, but failed miserably. @Wetman It was Tamiya paint, I never use anything else. Tamiya spray paints have always been clean and msooth. Was thinking of using Core RC... bigger cans, smaller price. But have heard some people have issues with the overall colour.
  7. @Juggular 1. To this day, I've never had to clean the nozzle on a can of spray paint... always a first time for everything. I do sometimes give a quick spray after each coat to help clear the nozzle, but I've never done it upside down. Except once. 2. I do spray with the body vertical nowadays. I used to have it laying upside down in a box, but now I hold it so I can angle the body the way I need to. The distance however, yeah this time \round I was actually quite close to the body, probably too close. I would guess about 10-15cm away. (If it was to scale, you'd coat the entire body with a single spray!) P.S. Duly noted! @Champ85 Very well could be. The UK saw a rise in temperature over the last day or so. But even when we were in the high 20s (high for us anyway) I've never encountered this before. And it happened over the entire body, not a single area is smooth. As mentioned in the above paragraph, I do now paint my bodies by holding them vertically, instead of laying them flat in a box. Makes it much easier. As for distance, I thought I was too close to the body, about 10-15cm... I don't usually go in that close. But the sweeping rate could have been a bit faster though. I was moving a little slower than usual. I also think I applied each coat too thick, too soon. I sprayed like 3 coats worth in one go, then let it dry, then did another coat. Possibly, I should have tried to be more patient and just lay down a nice, thin coat each time. I have ordered another body and paint from Wheelspin Models, this time I'm using white to back the metallic red instead. Never backed with white, so... fingers crossed, two times the charm.
  8. RICH_F: I've been meaning to try that method a few times, but I'm always paranoid that the water/soap combination will completely remove the adhesive on the stickers... even though I've seen YouTube videos of people doing it so I know it doesn't, but I still think it will... I'll probably give it a shot. Can't make it any worse than it already is! Will it work OK for stickers that have already been applied, or will it not have any effect on the adhesive?
  9. Yeah, definitely beginning to wish I'd gone with Bright Silver, but the website I bought all the paints and body shell from was out of stock of Bright Silver, so I went for the next in line... normal Tamiya silver. What else went wrong? Well, after the unfortunate mess of the silver paint, I applied the decals. The front window decal has multiple creases in it where I was (trying to) carefully apply it to the body. One window sticker ended up with little lumps under it, even though I'm sure it was free of dirt and dust. And the other side window has a large crease in it because I didn't lay the sticker flat and even. And one of the Rustler 4x4 decals tore when i tried to remove it from the sheet. Other than that... all peachy, lol.
  10. MARKBT73: Hm, to be honest, not always. If I'm even more honest, I've very rarely HAD to clean the nozzle. Every can of Tamiya paint I've ever used has always sprayed smoothly and evenly, right down to the last bit. This is the first time the paint has gone a bit flaky up on me. HOWARDS: I tried to brush it off, but the flakes didn't budge. They're moulded into the paint , and they're not simply loose on the surface or anything. I've actually stuck the shell on eBay, as things just went further downhill from there. Which is a shame, since I got the body and paint only today. I've listed it for bashing, since it didn't come out looking very good. Oh well, hope to claw back some money from the sale, get another body, back it with WHITE this time, as I no longer trust silver, lol.
  11. BUSDRIVER: From the outside it looks fine. Can't seen anything wrong when viewed from the outside. Thankfully, it started after a few coats, otherwise if it happened on the first coat, you might have been able to see it from the outside. And no, the can was at least half full at that point. BGAZZALENE: It's fairly warm, for the the UK at least, but wasn't hot enough to dry the paint almost right after leaving the can. I was quite close to the inside of the body, probably about 10cm or so (might have been too close), and as mention above, the can was pretty much still half full.
  12. I've just painted a body with metallic red, no problems. Then began backing it with silver, as I often do. But then the paint was starting to.. whatever it's doing in the attached photo. It's like the paint was spurting out of the nozzle, even though it was spraying perfectly smoothly. it also looks like there might have been a ton of dirt/dust on the body. Also no, it was clean and clear when I started. The last time I backed in silver was when I painted my Escort Cosworth Monte Carlo and that sprayed on perfectly, so I've no idea why the silver paint decided to go all lumpy like that. I also managed to scratch the silver paint with my nail as even after 30 minutes, in decent heat, it wasn't dry. I might have just layered it too thick in that area though. Does anyone know why the paint did/does this? More specifically, what can I do to prevent is happening again? My spray paint method has always been the same and I've never encountered an issue like this before. My fault or the paint? Do let me know!!
  13. Lol, no offence taken. Since it is indeed the road version, I removed the window sticker and it does look nicer without it. It was really just to add filler to the transparent windows. But since I still plan to tint them (hopefully without messing it up) the strip won't be needed.
  14. Do you use Tamiya Smoke or Core RC Window Tint? I'm undecided... Tamiya is more expensive and only 100ml. Core RC is cheaper and is 150ml. But I'm used to Tamiya paints, no idea how good (or bad) Core RC paints are.
  15. svenb : Thanks! It took me longer than expected, most of it was waiting for orders to arrive. Still need some smoke paint, and currently bidding on a brand-new TT-01 chassis that I shall use to display the shell as a Shelf Queen, as I doubt I'll want to run it. Superluminal : That's correct. I alternated the translucent paints until i was happy with the colour, then backed it with bright silver, then black, which makes up the front splitter and window frames. The plastics were quite difficult though, as I had to reverse that order, and the translucent paint looked darker on the plastic. Thankfully, the spoiler and mirrors turned out to match the body reasonably well.
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