TrueBlue

Wooders28: No worries there, it's already set to Ni-MH by default and I never change it, since I never use LiPo batteries. Oddly though, it doesn't even slow to half speed as you say, it just stops completely. A few seconds later, it would come back and all is well again, for an indefinite amount of time anyway. Sometimes I've had to turn off the 1060 then switch it back on again to reset it, as it were. I too have the Firebolt 15t motor and 1060 combo in 2-3 cars and never had a problem. So I'm quite confused as to why it's occurring with the Boomerang.

It is indeed the re-release Boomerang. So in theory, using Hot Shot front drive shafts should help reduce (or eliminate) the front wheel wobble? Hmm, no problems getting a pair of Hot Shot front shafts on eBay. I'll give that a go and see what happens when they're fitted! I've tried searching on here for such a problem, but unless I'm just using the wrong words, I can never find any topics about it.

Hm, I may as well make this site my home away from home at the moment! Further issues with my (fathers) Boomerang. This time involving the front dogbones and/or uprights... presumably. When the front wheels are facing straight forward, all seems fine and good. However, as soon as you turn left or right it seems as though the dogbones are somehow catching on the inside of the wheel hubs. If I'm turning left, the right wheel catches and shudders. If I'm turning right, the left wheel does the same. It's the outside wheel when turning that has the issue. It only happens on full steering I think, or at least close to. I know that the problem is at the wheel end, as I've rotated the wheels without the dogbone connected to a wheel, and there was no catching or shuddering. At full throttle, it looks and sounds like the shuddering will easily cause something to break, it's that bad. Everything has been built correctly to my knowledge. I've read, read and re-read the manual countless times but I cannot see anything out of place. The dogbones do have an unusual amount of movement though, and there are no rubber seals or anything that go inside the axle hubs that prevent movement. The only things is that I do not know which uprights he used... the ones on the sprue or the ones on their own. Other than that, all seems good. I'm gonna try and make a video at some point to help demonstrate this, as it's hard to put into words. Anyone with a re-re Boomerang had this issue? Did they fix it? Help?

I'm currently using Ni-Mh batteries, and as far as I know, the LiPo cut off is disabled. By closed chassis, do you mean the polycarbonate cover that goes on top of the chassis? Other than that, my Boomerang has an open chassis. My Hotshot however, does have a closed chassis. Is it geared for a 15T motor? At the moment, I can only assume. The other cars I have this combo in all use their original pinion gears, I've never had to swap them out for any other gears. So again, i can only assume at this point that the original gear the Boomerang comes with is OK for 15T motors. With this one, you may have a point. Prior to your reply, I tried another, much newer battery in the Boomerang and I have actually haven't had any cut offs. The original battery did have a split in the rubber on the red cable which could have contributed to the problem. Possibly turning on the under-voltage cut out. However, there is still an issue with reverse... most of the time, it'll be fast but on occasion becomes really slow and sluggish, like battery the battery is dying. But then all of a sudden, it'll be back to speed again. Even WITH a newer battery. I do use the same radio system in all my other cars. No trim problem, all is set up correctly. I use different brand and mAh batteries, but all standard Tamiya type/size. Thankfully, the ESC may not be the issue after all, it could have been a bad battery. I just need to figure the reversing issue. Thanks for your input once again

Hey all, annoyingly this is my third thread in less than a week, lol. Problems seem to be popping up more often than usual. This time, I have a problem with a brand new Hobbywing Quicrun 1060. The 1060 is coupled to an HPI Firebolt 15T motor, and this particular setup is in most of my R/C cars and they all without issues... except this one, of course. The 1060 is currently in a Boomerang, and every now and again, 1060 will cut out, seemingly for no reason. It'll beep, won't move, then beep again a few seconds later and can now move. But then it'll beep again and so on... sometimes, I can't move an inch before it cuts out again. I believe all the batteries are fully charged, the 1060 can easily handle 15T motors (12T limit), there is no thermal cutout going on as it'll barely move for a few seconds before the cut off occurs. The steering servo still works, so it couldn't be a receiver or battery issue (I assume though). I have noticed (I think) it seems to happen more often if I'm reversing then shove the stick into forward, then it cuts off. It also seems to slow down the overall speed when reversing, then after the cut off, reverse speed is faster again. I cannot fathom what is happening. As I said, I have multiple cars with the same ESC and motor setup (including my new Hot Shot) and they all function perfectly fine. Have never had any cut off problems with them. Does anyone with experience with the Quicrun 1060 have any ideas as to why it would cut off over and over again for, what I can tell, absolutely no reason??

Mahjik: It looks like the dogbones are engaging correctly. Everything spins and turns smoothly, everything interlocks with everything else. The wheel does feel very, very, VERY slightly stiffer than the other wheel, but barely noticeable. MadInventor: You may be on to something there. It seems as though the lower suspension arm is rubbing ever so slightly on the inside of the wheel. Everything is screwed in tightly, so I just used an X-acto knife to cut away small amounts of the suspension arm to make it clear the inner rim. Still rubs a bit, but now the wheel turns better than it did. Thanks for the assist!! Juggular: That's not a bad idea with the small springs to keep the dogbones in place. I may have to try that if I can find a sacrificial ball-point pen. And we have two cats, so cat hair isn't a problem (lol). Yeah, the dogbones all move nice and freely, nothing is tight or catching on anything. The problem seems to have been discovered by MadInventor up there. Mad Ax: He did indeed pretty much get it spot on. The lower arm rubbing on the inside of the wheel was the issue all the along, I didn't even think to check that out. To answer all your questions, the answer is YES to all, lol. Which is a given since the problem has been isolated

Well, I seem to have found the issue, or at least part of it. My father, who built the Boomerang (it's his car) used the wrong discs in the shocks, the parts with the wee holes where the oil comes through. He attached the one with the single, tiny hole on it rather than the one with the two larger holes. While the shocks are better than they were.. they now spring up... they don't spring up a lot. But I think this was the problem all along. I didn't even notice it until a few days ago. Also, new topic about my new Hot Shot (Re-re):

So now I have another issue with another newly purchased car. Well, not really an issue per say, but something odd that I've never seen happen on an R/C car. I built my new Hot Shot the other day... and it wasn't fun at all, so many things went wrong! Even my Konghead build went smoother.. anyway, I've noticed that if I lift the car from the car and pull it on it's rear wheels, one of the wheels doesn't spin. I think it's the front right if looking at it facing away from you. It also doesn't spin when under acceleration if I'm holding it. BUT... it does spin if I compress the suspension a tiny bit. It's like the pressure of the suspension is preventing it from spinning. This means it SHOULD be spinning when on the ground as the suspension will be slightly compressed. But I cannot fathom why a wheel won't spin. It doesn't feel tight or jammed when I turn it manually. If I spin either of the front wheels, other wheel does turn in the opposite direction as it should, so it's definitely connected properly. But why wouldn't a single wheel spin when the suspension is fully decompressed?

So... using the shocks WITHOUT the damper oil actually makes them work properly. They're obviously a little softer without the oil but they do spring back up almost the entire length of the damper. So the oil is seemingly preventing them from lifting the car back up again, even though I know that shouldn't be the case. Should I run the car without oil in the shocks, or might it cause damage from the car bouncing too much?

Saito2 - Dang. Oh well, maybe fifth time's the charm. I'll test all the O-rings and spacers etc once I get around to taking them apart and trying again. I'm pretty sure that nothing is off or bent or anything like that. I've tried to check them all and everything looks straight. What's still odd is how the front shock is working perfectly yet the two rears, built the same way, are having problems. Wooders28 - I have indeed tried the shocks out of the car. All joints and screw points are nice and loose and move freely on their own.

Hi, thanks for replying! To answer your questions: Yes, yes and also yes. And it's a re-release model. Yeah, no recovery at all in the shocks. It's like the shocks are stuck or something, but it's just very tight.

So as the title says, kind of, my Boomerang has very stiff rear shocks. I've made countless checks to make sure they are build correctly... which they are. Trimmed many tiny pieces of excess plastic off to make sure they fit sung... which they do. If you press down on the Boomerang, the shocks seem to compress just fine, but they're so stiff that they can't even lift the car back up. They barely move a millimetre after you let go. I've spent several hours on these shocks so far, but the results are always the same. They are just so stiff. The front shock however, is a completely story. They're just as they're supposed to be, and can easily lift the car back up again when compressed. All three shocks are built 100% identically, with the same parts and the same amount of Soft damper oil. I'm just so confused. I'm guessing this is clearly not normal and not how they're supposed to act. I also have no idea what could be wrong with them. Off the tops of your heads... does ANYONE have any thoughts or ideas about this??

Bump.. for the love of all that is holy, I hope SOMEONE has these tyres.

I recently won a Tyco Scorcher from eBay with a terribly beat-up body, which I plan to repair. However, the seller didn't say anything about the tyres... they're quite rotten. They're cracked, split and some of the front tyre is missing. I've looked for possible replacements using R/C tyres but none will fit. So I'm on the hunt for a complete set of Scorcher wheels and tyres, being six in total. I don't completely the wheels themselves, it's the tyres I'm desperate for. If they include the wheels as well than that's a bonus. I should say that the wheels would need to still be attached to the axles. This is a long shot, given the age of the car, but hopefully someone.. anyone... will have like a broken Scorcher that's no good, but still has perfectly usable tyres. I NEED THE TYRES PEOPLE!! If anyone has them, please PM me. I don't have a big budget given how much this will cost me to repair, but it could be worth it in the long run. Thanks all. P.S. The picture is not of my Scorcher, mine is in far worse condition. P.P.S: The wheels seem to have indicators on them, presumably for sizes? Small Wheel: 50.00-40-34 / Medium Wheel: 70.00-46-40 / Large Wheel: 80.00-52-46

I'm looking for a Konghead body shell set, preferably complete with decals and masks... unpainted of course. If it includes the chrome plastic parts and the screws, that's a bonus. They seem to be very hard to find complete. If anyone has a body shell they don't want or need, please PM me. I need to re-do my current body as it didn't go too well. Much obliged and thanks.