TrueBlue

Even though the steering is jittery in the THR Ch2 channel, the forward/reverse movement is not (when in THR Ch2). It's super smooth with no juddering. I should try to get a second receiver so I can test. If the same thing happens, maybe it's a faulty transmitter instead. EDIT 2: I have uploaded a YouTube better explaining the problem, as well as some footage of how the transmitter and receiver behave when used: https://youtu.be/uJOprpxVW5s

Well, throttle DOES work with the wheel when plugged into STR. With the steering plugged in THR, that also works.. it is very jittery, but it does steer with the trigger. No second Rx in order to test though. However, an interesting discovery. I've tried the receiver in 6 different Tamiya's, with varying ESCs, including Tamiya, HobbyWing (brushed and brushless) and an old unknown branded one. It fails to work in FIVE of them. It works in my Konghead, which currently has a Traxxas XL-5 ESC installed. For some reason, calibration worked and can control the throttle with the trigger as I'm supposed to. If calibration worked with the ESC's, it might start working properly. But without a "go" signal, there's no calibration, therefore no throttle. EDIT: Also decided to test this in my Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL. Interesting... it works perfectly. So both the Rustler and Konghead have one thing in common: they both use Traxxas receivers. A VXL-3 and an XL-5. So why is the Spektrum only working on Traxxas ESC's? Very peculiar.

OK, so I purchased this transmitter and receiver from an eBay seller who had removed it from his recently purchased Big Rock. It was sold as "For Parts or Not Working" so no refund, but at the same time the seller was unsure whether he was doing anything wrong when it came to binding the transmitter and receiver. As it turns out, he may very well have been doing it correctly, as something does seem faulty somewhere. I have it binded to the SLR300 receiver no problems. Steering works no problem, as do the steering adjustments. Throttle however... is a literal no-go. There is no response from the throttle at all. When I turn on the ESC (HobbyWing QuicRun 1080) it blinks, usually indicating no transmitter signal, but steering does work. It appears that the transmitter is not sending any signal from the throttle, so the ESC doesn't initiate fully, except the steering. I've tried calibrating the ESC, but since it's not receiving a "go" signal, calibration doesn't work. I've taken the transmitter apart (since I can't return it or get it replaced under warranty) and I can't see anything obvious. No components are damaged, burnt, missing (I think), the circuit board is undamaged, pretty much nothing out of the ordinary. I know the trigger potentiometer works as I was able to test it on the steering, so the issue lies from the connector on the board to... where ever it goes after that. Also, the ESC works fine with other receivers, and the SLR300 won't work with other speed controllers in other cars. I CAN get the throttle to work if I use the AUX buttons for forward and backward, but that's not really useful. So the ESC is definitely working with the receiver to some capacity, but the throttle channel is just... dead. It COULD be the receiver I suppose, but I don't have any means of testing, without buying another receiver or transmitter. So I've run out of ideas, after trying for a good 3-4 hours fault finding... I found no obvious faults. Google isn't very helpful as it just loves to omit the word "SLT3" a lot. Does anyone have any clues? Any ideas? Any thoughts? Even a spare receiver you wish to get rid of. Any help is a good thing. Please and thank you!

I did indeed try to calibrate the ESC, I did it several times to make sure but it still has issues when going into reverse. I threw a HobbyWing 1060 in there quickly, just to test and it reverses just fine.. all the time, every time. So it seems there's something about the TBLE-04S that's isn't quite right, at least for mine. I've never actually had an 02S fail on me yet, and I'm had plenty of them. Granted, they usually get replaced by a HW 1060 (although those are getting replaced soon as well!) but the cars that I run the 02S in have never gone bad. But I do hope the 04S isn't having that issue.. I like the new ESC and was hoping to keep it in the Escort, but it seems I'm stuck with the HW 1060 for now, unless I slap an 02S in there instead.

I recently acquired the new Ford Escort Custom, that comes with the new TLBE-04S ESC. I've just taken it out for it's first run since I built it, and noticed that reverse seemed to be very hit and miss. It'll brake immediately, so there's no problems there. But it won't go into reverse after moving the stick down a second time. I have to to this a few times until eventually it does start to reverse. I can see the green LED on the ESC blink when it receives the reverse signal, so it's definitely detecting reverse, but it simply struggles to start reversing. I temporarily attached a TBLE-02S to the receiver, and it worked fine. Granted I forgot to test it on the floor, when the motor would have had resistance, but it still went into reverse every time. And yes, the battery was fully charged, before anyone asks. And alsoyes, reverse is enabled in the ESC settings. No idea if this new ESC is faulty, and I doubt this can be normal behaviour. I'm guessing not to many people have one of these yet, since the Escort Custom was the first kit to include it. But does anyone have any ideas why reverse is a bit of gamble as to when it works? Please and thank you!

I didn't get this ON Christmas, but I did get it FOR Christmas. A few weeks ago as a rather early Christmas present. I've only used it about twice so far. Got a 2S battery and charger with it...

As per the title, I am after a set of 4 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg II 2.2in tyres (below), or a set of 4 Pro-Line Trencher T 2.2 Truck Tyres, for my Tamiya Aqroshot. I do know these fit the Aqroshot wheels as I've seen several photos of these tyres attached to the standard Aqroshot wheels, and I would like to upgrade the current tyres as they very little traction, pretty much on any surface. I originally purchased some Schumacher Stagger Rib tyres, that was I was led to believe would fit after reading several (other) RC forums, but unfortunately they do not fit at all as the diameter of the inner side of the tyre is far too large (I didn't know this, as I had not seen a single photo showing both sides of the tyre). So if anyone has 4 of these tyres, in good condition, they don't have to be brand new, let me know. Would prefer a UK location, but will consider anywhere in Europe as long as the price is right! Let me know what you'd like for them and we'll try to come sort of arrangement! Please and thank you!

I have an HW1060 with the same issue. It goes into limp mode after a short amount of running time... and by short, I mean less than a minute. Turning it off then on again resets the ESC and it works at full speed, for another minute or so. It's definitely the ESC, I've tried it in two different cars with different motors of varying turn speeds and it has the same result. I'm considering buying the capacitor module (or maybe two, just in case) as I've just bought another HW1060, not opened yet... so hopefully I won't have a second dodgy one. One of the motors was a new 15t (HPI Firebolt) and the other was an old 21t (unknown) and the HW1060 is capable of up to (or down to?) 12t... so I'm pretty convinced here that the ESC is definitely at fault.

So one of my Traxxas Rustler bodies sold, but I decided to keep the other. I am now looking for a sticker sheet for the Rustler 4x4 VXL, as Traxxas don't seem to sell them individually and can only be obtained by buying a whole body shell. The sticker sheet in question is seen in the image. No need for the body though, just the stickers. This might be a bit of a long shot, since you can't get them on their own, but I need to ask just in case someone does have them. If anyone reads this and has a spare sticker sheet they do not need, please do let me know! Please and thank you!

For sale are two Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL body shells, sprayed with Tamiya Metallic Red paint. They're also on eBay, but getting no real interest there. Selling due to unfortunate imperfections while painting the body. Body Shell #1: Tamiya PS-15 Metallic Red, PS-21 Silver, backed in PS-5 Black. Body colour is fine, Silver paint when a bit lumpy while spraying. Looks and feels like sandpaper. One window decal has a crease, the other a few small bumps underneath from dirt, the front window has creases from where I applied the decal. Not instantly noticeable, but it's there. Body Shell #2: Tamiya PS-15 Metallic Red, PS-5 Black, backed in PS-1 White. Body colour is fine, white backing is also fine and smooth. Rear bed of the body in black is fine. The problem is the white stripe on the front. I shouldn't have tried to add this, the masking tape didn't stick in the grooves of the shell, and so red paint bled through. I was able to remove some, but the rest was invisible until the white was sprayed. All decals went on perfectly, no creases or anything. Not sure what to ask for these. Both shells were purchased new just a few days ago, along with the paint. Shell #1 I'll price at £12 because it has more issues than the other. Shell #2 I'll price at £20. Both Shells I'll price at £30. Shipping for an individual shell will be £6, full tracking. For both, shipping will be £8, with full tracking. Let me know which body shell number you'd like, or if you'd like both. UK only. Thanks for looking.

Well, my second attempt went much better. Laid down a thin dusting first before adding each additional coat. Let the paint dry for longer. Didn't add 3 coats worth in one go. Used the soapy water method to apply the decals... it didn't make the decals slide, but did make it easier to remove them if needed. All was going well... until I wanted to do something different and added a white stripe on the front. Big mistake. Couldn't get the masking tape to stay in all the grooves, so much red paint bled through. Removed what I could, but some red was left over because I couldn't see it. After I sprayed the white, it became much clearer. Either way.. this shell is on eBay now too, lol. Not kidding either. Not happy with how either body went. Shouldn't have added that stripe, as it would have been 100% perfect for me to use, but small imperfections like that bum me out. Uh... anyone in the UK looking for a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL body?? Please tho?

@rich_f Yep, found out that out when I tried it... thought I'd give it a go, but failed miserably. @Wetman It was Tamiya paint, I never use anything else. Tamiya spray paints have always been clean and msooth. Was thinking of using Core RC... bigger cans, smaller price. But have heard some people have issues with the overall colour.

@Juggular 1. To this day, I've never had to clean the nozzle on a can of spray paint... always a first time for everything. I do sometimes give a quick spray after each coat to help clear the nozzle, but I've never done it upside down. Except once. 2. I do spray with the body vertical nowadays. I used to have it laying upside down in a box, but now I hold it so I can angle the body the way I need to. The distance however, yeah this time \round I was actually quite close to the body, probably too close. I would guess about 10-15cm away. (If it was to scale, you'd coat the entire body with a single spray!) P.S. Duly noted! @Champ85 Very well could be. The UK saw a rise in temperature over the last day or so. But even when we were in the high 20s (high for us anyway) I've never encountered this before. And it happened over the entire body, not a single area is smooth. As mentioned in the above paragraph, I do now paint my bodies by holding them vertically, instead of laying them flat in a box. Makes it much easier. As for distance, I thought I was too close to the body, about 10-15cm... I don't usually go in that close. But the sweeping rate could have been a bit faster though. I was moving a little slower than usual. I also think I applied each coat too thick, too soon. I sprayed like 3 coats worth in one go, then let it dry, then did another coat. Possibly, I should have tried to be more patient and just lay down a nice, thin coat each time. I have ordered another body and paint from Wheelspin Models, this time I'm using white to back the metallic red instead. Never backed with white, so... fingers crossed, two times the charm.

RICH_F: I've been meaning to try that method a few times, but I'm always paranoid that the water/soap combination will completely remove the adhesive on the stickers... even though I've seen YouTube videos of people doing it so I know it doesn't, but I still think it will... I'll probably give it a shot. Can't make it any worse than it already is! Will it work OK for stickers that have already been applied, or will it not have any effect on the adhesive?

Yeah, definitely beginning to wish I'd gone with Bright Silver, but the website I bought all the paints and body shell from was out of stock of Bright Silver, so I went for the next in line... normal Tamiya silver. What else went wrong? Well, after the unfortunate mess of the silver paint, I applied the decals. The front window decal has multiple creases in it where I was (trying to) carefully apply it to the body. One window sticker ended up with little lumps under it, even though I'm sure it was free of dirt and dust. And the other side window has a large crease in it because I didn't lay the sticker flat and even. And one of the Rustler 4x4 decals tore when i tried to remove it from the sheet. Other than that... all peachy, lol.