TrueBlue

Bump.. for the love of all that is holy, I hope SOMEONE has these tyres.

I recently won a Tyco Scorcher from eBay with a terribly beat-up body, which I plan to repair. However, the seller didn't say anything about the tyres... they're quite rotten. They're cracked, split and some of the front tyre is missing. I've looked for possible replacements using R/C tyres but none will fit. So I'm on the hunt for a complete set of Scorcher wheels and tyres, being six in total. I don't completely the wheels themselves, it's the tyres I'm desperate for. If they include the wheels as well than that's a bonus. I should say that the wheels would need to still be attached to the axles. This is a long shot, given the age of the car, but hopefully someone.. anyone... will have like a broken Scorcher that's no good, but still has perfectly usable tyres. I NEED THE TYRES PEOPLE!! If anyone has them, please PM me. I don't have a big budget given how much this will cost me to repair, but it could be worth it in the long run. Thanks all. P.S. The picture is not of my Scorcher, mine is in far worse condition. P.P.S: The wheels seem to have indicators on them, presumably for sizes? Small Wheel: 50.00-40-34 / Medium Wheel: 70.00-46-40 / Large Wheel: 80.00-52-46

I'm looking for a Konghead body shell set, preferably complete with decals and masks... unpainted of course. If it includes the chrome plastic parts and the screws, that's a bonus. They seem to be very hard to find complete. If anyone has a body shell they don't want or need, please PM me. I need to re-do my current body as it didn't go too well. Much obliged and thanks.

Hey taffer, that sounds like a good deal to me. I'll gladly take it off your hands.

This is probably going to be a long shot, due to the fact I cannot find even ONE of these in the UK, but does anyone have a spare set of Tamiya Aqroshot stickers laying around that they do not want? The item number is 319495852 if that's of any help, the chassis is the DT-03T, though that's probably less help. Like I said, long shot... but if anyone has one, please do let me know ASAP. Many thanks.

I did not polish off the coating of black, no. I was wondering why one pair was silver and one was black.

According to the instructions I'm looking at, the shorter ones do go on the rear, and the longer ones go on the front. According to the instructions.

I kinda sorted it out, but it's not great. The instructions say to slide a small tube onto the piston rod, which I have no idea what it does. So what I did was move the tube below that disc the spring presses against, therefore making the spring a little stiffer. It's not the best fix, but it kinda works and it now pushes itself back up. My description might not make much sense, hopefully the pictures do. I may opt for some better springs in the future though.

Not too long ago, I finished building a Tamiya Aqroshot which included the DT-03 CVA damper set. I followed the instructions to build the dampers 100%. Once the build was done, I noticed that the front dampers were fine and could push the chassis back up, but the rear dampers are very stiff and are unable to lift the chassis without me lifting it up myself. All the parts were used, nothing was left over. I filled the dampers with oil to the top and cleaned any overspill, I remove the air bubbles as I went. It's like the spring itself has no resistance (right word?) when compressed. Does anyone have any idea why just the rear dampers are doing this? Is it normal and has anyone experienced this before with this damper set? Any help would be awesome.. I wanted to drive this tomorrow!

For sale is my Ford Escort RS Cosworth Repsol body-shell. Due to it's age, it's not in the best of conditions sadly. For starters... most of the red paint at the rear of the shell has cracked off. Having bought a new can of the same colour, I discovered that the paint wasn't sticking to shell very well. Also, some of the orange paint is cracking off, which I "fixed" with some brighter orange... yeah, you can see it clearly. I covered the rear of the shell in red electrical tape to hide the missing paint... doesn't look TOO terrible like that, lol. There is also some damage to the front right corner, which has been fixed with super glue. It was a valiant effort, doesn't look too bad. Some of the stickers, notably the stickers that make up the window surrounds, are peeling. The side lights, fog/indicator stickers and the lower grille are actually printouts of the original sticker sheet, covered with sellotape to make them glossy and attached with double-sided tape, and the lights are silver and red Sharpie.. but should come off easily with the correct cleaner. There have been two additional holes drilled to allow it to fit on my TT-01 chassis, as well as the original TA-01 chassis. That being said, it's not in bad condition. If you have the time and patience... and some major skills... there is no reason you couldn't bring this shell back to life, removing the paint with some solvent (such as non-acetone nail polish remover) and respray, or even respray the outside. While I do not really want to sell, it's only going to get worse over time and I don't have the skills or money to refurbish it, so I'd like it to go to someone who can. At the moment, I'm open to offers. I know it's in pretty bad condition (just as it was when I bought it 5 years ago off eBay) but it's still a rare shell.. but not AS rare as those in better condition. Thanks for looking, and for any interest you show!

WANTED: Tamiya Hornet C-Parts and D-Parts... More specifically, I'm after the battery cover from the C-Parts and the body-mounts (body posts) from the D-Parts. Having spent a butt load of money restoring this Hornet, my budget is somewhat tight at the moment. While I'd like to have BOTH sets complete, I really need those two listed items. If someone does have both Parts for a decent price (possibly between £10-£15) then I'll take them. otherwise, if someone has JUST the batter cover (in good condition, no scratches) and the body posts, I'll take them instead. PM me if you have them. Many thanks

So the Hornet is now complete... the aerial tube and a new Ansmann 3000MAh battery showed up today. The last two things I was waiting for. So now the Hornet is on charge, and then I'll test the thing out... since I started this restore, I haven't really tested it properly on the floor, road etc, so fingers crossed it works. Just need to get a second Hornet shell, and I'll use one for on-roading, and one for off-roading... so one can get damaged while one remains clean. Anyway, here is the Hornet with my TT-01, using the Ford Escort Cosworth Repsol shell: And with my other two shells (Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 and R34): I kinda want to sell the Escort shell, but it's not in the best condition. This thread has died down in recent days, but I'll continue to add to it once I get the new Hornet shell

DynamiteD - Thanks! It's been going well, save for the ESC problem mentioned below (now sorted). Will soon be time to test it out... once it stops raining Well this Hornet isn't going anywhere fast, as I need some help with the ESC. It's an Etronix Probe Plus as mentioned above, and it's having problems doing... anything. The first time I used it, it seemed to work OK... reverse was a little low, but it worked. However, in order to even GET it to reverse, i had to adjust th trim on the transmitter all the way down. I wanted to try and adjust this, to make the forward more sensitive and the reverse a little faster, so I started messing with the SET button... this was a very bad idea. The manual for the ESC is absolute poop, and gives no mention of the SET button whatsoever. In fact.. after a quick search on the internet, there is nothing there either. It's like it was just placed there as an afterthought, and even Etronix do not know what it does. Either way, I've got forward working, to some extent as it's not very sensitive, and now reverse has gone completely. I've been at for about an hour now, trying all sorts of buttons combinations... holding it down, pressing it 2 times 3, 4, 5, etc... nothing is working. Also, sometimes it'll just start going forward on it's own without me pushing the stick forward, and it ALWAYS starts moving forward when I power on the car. Does anyone have any knowledge of this rather crappy ESC? Seriously.. it's cheap, but do not get one... it's terrible, and you can NOT calibrate it properly... even though it claims to do it itself. UPDATE: Figured it out... finally. Had to look on t'internet for a manual for a Hobbywing ESC, since it seems that the Etronix is just a rebranded version. So after following that, the forward, brake and reverse all work, with the transmitter trim dead center Why Etronix omitted ANY information regarding the SET button or how to use is beyond me, stupid choice on their part.

I have for sale three random items, that I no longer need. Continue perusing if you are interested... The crystal set, the waveband is 27.145MHz, thus will only work in 27HMz transmitters and receivers, but should fit ANY transmitter and receiver. Next, I have a brand new Tamiya TLU-01 light unit. Bought not long ago, and not even used. When purchased, it came with no LEDs, but I'll include a pair 3mm white LEDs (a;; I have left). Lastly, I have a Vapex "Smart" charger, model VTE500P. The charger will cut off once the battery is charged. However, it does sometimes give "false peaks" where the charger incorrectly thinks the battery is full. Just check the temp of the battery... if it's still cool, unplug it and plug it in again until it's warm to the touch. The prices are as follows: Crystals: £3.50 TLU-01: £20.00 Charger: £13.00 Postage for any of them should equate to about £2 since they're all fairly small and light. If any of them interest you, feel free to drop me a PM

Hmm... I'll give it a go with the pivot point locked and see how it goes. And at least one roll is better than two! Also, onto some updates. The body has been stickered-up with a select few stickers. I didn't use them all, nor did I want to plaster them all over the place. I've also pretty much finished installing all the components into the chassis as well, using very strong doubled sided sticky pads and a cable ties... I always find cable ties are invaluable these days. The photos below will show my progress... And here it is with the body attached... I plan to purchase a HPI Racing Saturn 20T motor to replace the Launcher AR 17x2T motor. For one, I may need to make it a little slower, especially with it's archaic suspension, and also because, as you'll see below, the motor is a little bit exposed to the elements... It does seems to make a bit of a clicking noise when it moves, not sure why. It usually appears louder when either pulling away or slowing down. Anyone have any ideas? Anyway, just ordered an antenna tube, since somehow I forgot to get one, so now I just need that to arrive. I think I might need a new battery, as the one I'm using doesn't seem to hold a charge for very long. Once the Hornet is complete, I'll look into purchasing a second body shell. I'd like to do another one since I enjoyed doing this one, but since I pan to hopefully take this off-road, I'd like to keep one shell in good condition and let the other shell get properly dirty THEN I'll try to start repairing the original shell that came with it. It seems to have been hand-painted silver, there's a few cracks, some of the paint has come away, and the spoiler was thrown away. I'll get some silver paint, paint the inside AND the outside, and possibly find a 3rd party plastic spoiler and make it fit. Lastly, I do have some questions regarding my ESC. It's an Etronix Probe Plus ET0101, and there's some odd things about it, very different from my Mtronix TIO 14T ESC in the TT-01. So if anyone reading this is savvy on the Etronix Probe Plus, I'll be asking a few questions here next time