TrueBlue

As per the title, I am after a set of 4 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg II 2.2in tyres (below), or a set of 4 Pro-Line Trencher T 2.2 Truck Tyres, for my Tamiya Aqroshot. I do know these fit the Aqroshot wheels as I've seen several photos of these tyres attached to the standard Aqroshot wheels, and I would like to upgrade the current tyres as they very little traction, pretty much on any surface. I originally purchased some Schumacher Stagger Rib tyres, that was I was led to believe would fit after reading several (other) RC forums, but unfortunately they do not fit at all as the diameter of the inner side of the tyre is far too large (I didn't know this, as I had not seen a single photo showing both sides of the tyre). So if anyone has 4 of these tyres, in good condition, they don't have to be brand new, let me know. Would prefer a UK location, but will consider anywhere in Europe as long as the price is right! Let me know what you'd like for them and we'll try to come sort of arrangement! Please and thank you!

I have an HW1060 with the same issue. It goes into limp mode after a short amount of running time... and by short, I mean less than a minute. Turning it off then on again resets the ESC and it works at full speed, for another minute or so. It's definitely the ESC, I've tried it in two different cars with different motors of varying turn speeds and it has the same result. I'm considering buying the capacitor module (or maybe two, just in case) as I've just bought another HW1060, not opened yet... so hopefully I won't have a second dodgy one. One of the motors was a new 15t (HPI Firebolt) and the other was an old 21t (unknown) and the HW1060 is capable of up to (or down to?) 12t... so I'm pretty convinced here that the ESC is definitely at fault.

So one of my Traxxas Rustler bodies sold, but I decided to keep the other. I am now looking for a sticker sheet for the Rustler 4x4 VXL, as Traxxas don't seem to sell them individually and can only be obtained by buying a whole body shell. The sticker sheet in question is seen in the image. No need for the body though, just the stickers. This might be a bit of a long shot, since you can't get them on their own, but I need to ask just in case someone does have them. If anyone reads this and has a spare sticker sheet they do not need, please do let me know! Please and thank you!

Well, my second attempt went much better. Laid down a thin dusting first before adding each additional coat. Let the paint dry for longer. Didn't add 3 coats worth in one go. Used the soapy water method to apply the decals... it didn't make the decals slide, but did make it easier to remove them if needed. All was going well... until I wanted to do something different and added a white stripe on the front. Big mistake. Couldn't get the masking tape to stay in all the grooves, so much red paint bled through. Removed what I could, but some red was left over because I couldn't see it. After I sprayed the white, it became much clearer. Either way.. this shell is on eBay now too, lol. Not kidding either. Not happy with how either body went. Shouldn't have added that stripe, as it would have been 100% perfect for me to use, but small imperfections like that bum me out. Uh... anyone in the UK looking for a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 VXL body?? Please tho?

@rich_f Yep, found out that out when I tried it... thought I'd give it a go, but failed miserably. @Wetman It was Tamiya paint, I never use anything else. Tamiya spray paints have always been clean and msooth. Was thinking of using Core RC... bigger cans, smaller price. But have heard some people have issues with the overall colour.

@Juggular 1. To this day, I've never had to clean the nozzle on a can of spray paint... always a first time for everything. I do sometimes give a quick spray after each coat to help clear the nozzle, but I've never done it upside down. Except once. 2. I do spray with the body vertical nowadays. I used to have it laying upside down in a box, but now I hold it so I can angle the body the way I need to. The distance however, yeah this time \round I was actually quite close to the body, probably too close. I would guess about 10-15cm away. (If it was to scale, you'd coat the entire body with a single spray!) P.S. Duly noted! @Champ85 Very well could be. The UK saw a rise in temperature over the last day or so. But even when we were in the high 20s (high for us anyway) I've never encountered this before. And it happened over the entire body, not a single area is smooth. As mentioned in the above paragraph, I do now paint my bodies by holding them vertically, instead of laying them flat in a box. Makes it much easier. As for distance, I thought I was too close to the body, about 10-15cm... I don't usually go in that close. But the sweeping rate could have been a bit faster though. I was moving a little slower than usual. I also think I applied each coat too thick, too soon. I sprayed like 3 coats worth in one go, then let it dry, then did another coat. Possibly, I should have tried to be more patient and just lay down a nice, thin coat each time. I have ordered another body and paint from Wheelspin Models, this time I'm using white to back the metallic red instead. Never backed with white, so... fingers crossed, two times the charm.

RICH_F: I've been meaning to try that method a few times, but I'm always paranoid that the water/soap combination will completely remove the adhesive on the stickers... even though I've seen YouTube videos of people doing it so I know it doesn't, but I still think it will... I'll probably give it a shot. Can't make it any worse than it already is! Will it work OK for stickers that have already been applied, or will it not have any effect on the adhesive?

Yeah, definitely beginning to wish I'd gone with Bright Silver, but the website I bought all the paints and body shell from was out of stock of Bright Silver, so I went for the next in line... normal Tamiya silver. What else went wrong? Well, after the unfortunate mess of the silver paint, I applied the decals. The front window decal has multiple creases in it where I was (trying to) carefully apply it to the body. One window sticker ended up with little lumps under it, even though I'm sure it was free of dirt and dust. And the other side window has a large crease in it because I didn't lay the sticker flat and even. And one of the Rustler 4x4 decals tore when i tried to remove it from the sheet. Other than that... all peachy, lol.

MARKBT73: Hm, to be honest, not always. If I'm even more honest, I've very rarely HAD to clean the nozzle. Every can of Tamiya paint I've ever used has always sprayed smoothly and evenly, right down to the last bit. This is the first time the paint has gone a bit flaky up on me. HOWARDS: I tried to brush it off, but the flakes didn't budge. They're moulded into the paint , and they're not simply loose on the surface or anything. I've actually stuck the shell on eBay, as things just went further downhill from there. Which is a shame, since I got the body and paint only today. I've listed it for bashing, since it didn't come out looking very good. Oh well, hope to claw back some money from the sale, get another body, back it with WHITE this time, as I no longer trust silver, lol.

BUSDRIVER: From the outside it looks fine. Can't seen anything wrong when viewed from the outside. Thankfully, it started after a few coats, otherwise if it happened on the first coat, you might have been able to see it from the outside. And no, the can was at least half full at that point. BGAZZALENE: It's fairly warm, for the the UK at least, but wasn't hot enough to dry the paint almost right after leaving the can. I was quite close to the inside of the body, probably about 10cm or so (might have been too close), and as mention above, the can was pretty much still half full.

I've just painted a body with metallic red, no problems. Then began backing it with silver, as I often do. But then the paint was starting to.. whatever it's doing in the attached photo. It's like the paint was spurting out of the nozzle, even though it was spraying perfectly smoothly. it also looks like there might have been a ton of dirt/dust on the body. Also no, it was clean and clear when I started. The last time I backed in silver was when I painted my Escort Cosworth Monte Carlo and that sprayed on perfectly, so I've no idea why the silver paint decided to go all lumpy like that. I also managed to scratch the silver paint with my nail as even after 30 minutes, in decent heat, it wasn't dry. I might have just layered it too thick in that area though. Does anyone know why the paint did/does this? More specifically, what can I do to prevent is happening again? My spray paint method has always been the same and I've never encountered an issue like this before. My fault or the paint? Do let me know!!

Lol, no offence taken. Since it is indeed the road version, I removed the window sticker and it does look nicer without it. It was really just to add filler to the transparent windows. But since I still plan to tint them (hopefully without messing it up) the strip won't be needed.

Do you use Tamiya Smoke or Core RC Window Tint? I'm undecided... Tamiya is more expensive and only 100ml. Core RC is cheaper and is 150ml. But I'm used to Tamiya paints, no idea how good (or bad) Core RC paints are.

svenb : Thanks! It took me longer than expected, most of it was waiting for orders to arrive. Still need some smoke paint, and currently bidding on a brand-new TT-01 chassis that I shall use to display the shell as a Shelf Queen, as I doubt I'll want to run it. Superluminal : That's correct. I alternated the translucent paints until i was happy with the colour, then backed it with bright silver, then black, which makes up the front splitter and window frames. The plastics were quite difficult though, as I had to reverse that order, and the translucent paint looked darker on the plastic. Thankfully, the spoiler and mirrors turned out to match the body reasonably well.

So after a considerable amount of time since I made this post, i finally got around to painting the Escort Cosworth shell... in metallic blue. Yeah I know... plain, boring, unoriginal etc. But I didn't want to ruin the bodyshell, as it as my first Escort Cosworth shell and I wanted it to go without a problem. However, I didn't want to give up quite so easily. So I spent a further £42 on yet another shell, as well as wing mirrors (sold separately). Got some black, translucent red, translucent purple and bright silver and had a go. As for plastics, I just reversed the paint order, and laid down a few coats of Tamiya clearcoat, as my previous clearcoat from Hycote was a bit naff. Further down the road (lol @ pun) I purchased some Focus WRC wheels that match the real Monte Carlo and sprayed them AS-12 Bare Metal Silver, and even found some OZ Racing wheel decals in black from RCDecals. Even got myself some 1/10 scale number plates. All that's the left that I want to do, is smoke the windows with Core RC Window Tint (cheaper than Tamiya, and 50% more) and maybe some metal brake discs in silver or red, and get some red discs for my Mustang GT-4 shell. And here are some photos. I tried to get the shell in the sunlight so the colour would pop, but it messed up the white balance on my camera and made everything to dark. So these are the best photos I could take. And you can always compare the real thing with the shell using the photo from my original post:

Wanted: Complete decal set for the Ford Mustang GT4. Can't seem to find any on their own, unless I buy the whole bodyshell. Already did that a few months go, but now need a second decal sheet as a few (as in, half) of the decals didn't go on properly and couldn't remove them to reposition them. So if anyone has complete sheet of the Mustang GT4 (complete, as in no decals used or missing) let me know and we can work out a price. Oh, and the masking sheets are not needed, in case you were wondering. Thanks and thanks.

Wanted: Complete decal set for the Ford Mustang GT4. Can't seem to find any on their own, unless I buy the whole bodyshell. Already did that a few months go, but now need a second decal sheet as a few (as in, half) of the decals didn't go on properly and couldn't remove them to reposition them. So if anyone has complete sheet of the Mustang GT4 (complete, as in no decals used or missing) let me know and we can work out a price. Oh, and the masking sheets are not needed, in case you were wondering. Thanks and thanks.

So their automotive paints will work fine on polycarbonate as well as plastic? So good so far... I'm on their site, I'm a bit lost though, I visit their selection of "paint canz" but no idea where to go for custom colours. Your racing truck colour is quite similar to the Jewel Violet, just a wee bit darker.

You were able to spray plastic with the polycarbonate paints? And it sticks OK.. doesn't flake or peel? So you layered the gun metal then the translucent red? Interesting... in the right light, that colour looks like a close match, might have to give that one a shot. Still contemplating translucent pink and silver, as it might be what I need to give the colour that vibrant pop.

I've just realised a potential problem... and that's creating the same colour for the plastic spoiler and wing mirrors. There are no translucent paints for plastic so re-creating the Jewel Violet might be impossible.

Interesting ideas from everyone. The Porsche colour looks close, and looks really nice, but a bit too much red. I was thinking of translucent pink and another colour, it would need to be backed in a dark colour, like gun metal I guess. Translucent purple might work... with silver maybe? Might be worth a shot, I can always purchase another bodyshell. What about red and blue paint, since that makes purple. Translucent red and blue? Or translucent purple and blue? This is quite the brain teaser for me, lol.

I've recently acquired an Escort RS Cosworth shell from L&L Models, and I'd like to try and paint it in "Jewel Violet" like the Escort Cosworth Monte Carlo. Obviously, I can't make the EXACT colour, but I'd like to get close. Not sure what Tamiya colours can be used together to make it as close as possible... like maybe translucent red and metallic purple backed with silver... no idea, just throwing suggestions. So, hoping that someone here (or many someones) will have even a small idea as to what colours I can use that might at least come close to matching the Jewel Violet colour. I won't be getting the paint for a week or two, but plenty of time for suggestions. I was going to paint it blue, but that's been done to death on Escort Cosworths. Might end up with just using metallic purple or metallic red backed with silver. Looking forward to y'all ideas and suggestions!

That's what I was thinking... trucks on the rear, rally block on the front. Not much off-road grip but will look good, as you say

Oh wow, that's a lot of tyre. All in good condition and complete with spikes. I found out after a bit of research that the TT-01 racing trucks used the M-Chassis rims. So those are still a possibility for me to get, since they are quite common.

Rims aren't too bad. A bit chipped but possibly repairable. Was going to maybe spray them white or black at some point, and keep an eye out for some rims. The M-Chassis tyres look like they fit quite well in that photo. I tried finding the racing truck M-Chassis tyres, but all I could find were TT-01 and TT-02 tyres. Though one might assume those would fir the M-Chassis as well. May definitely go forward with the M tyres after seeing that photo. But you said you also had some spare tyres? Are they QD tyres or M tyres, just out of curiosity?