Bluefoot

Many 4ch transmitters have the mountings for the return springs in all 4 directions, but the springs for the "throttle" are missing. I'm not sure about the particular controller you mention, but you might be able to get away with just swapping some springs around. I have tried the setup you are contemplating using two MSCs and foward facing sticks on a two channel set. I found it very hard to get the thing to go in a straight line. It is much easier to have a single speed controller and a "steering" switch setup which cuts the power to one or the other motor to turn left or right. I used a rewired switch set from an original Sherman for this.

I see the truck shown in the handbook has 3 grey servo savers. All mine are black, and I think all the others I have seen are black too. Were these the prototypes perhaps?

Hey Paul, only one Gepard. Of the original four clutch-driven tanks - Sherman, Leopard A4, Gepard and King Tiger, the Leo and Gep have not been re-issued. There are lots of Shermans and King Tigers with different turrets, drive systems and electronics. The Leopard A4 and Gepard share the same chassis and gearbox/drive, different from all the others. You gonna build it?! Don.

Got them all second-hand off our local auction site in NZ. All were mint c/w radio gear. The most expensive one cost 170GBP and came with the mag mayhems and EVX.

Yep... caustic oven cleaner. Very easy to apply and you don't need a big bucket full of the stuff. Just remember that it burns skin, and will cause you breathing problems, so do it in a well ventilated place. You can spray it and put the item in a large plastic bag to allow it to "soak" overnight too. Note that it doesn't work on all types of paint, and that you should do a test patch.

Well I have one fitted out with Mag Mayhems and an EVX speedo, which flies over anything. I have another which I plan on fitting some 55T lathe motors to for a bit of very slow work, and I have yet another which is stock standard and looks good on the shelf. Is that too many?

I find that the bulk of the views come when the car is first posted in my showroom, or if it is featured in the spotlight or in a competition. Of my top three, two have been in the spotlight: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...364&id=2193 1484 views http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...631&id=2193 1126 views and this one was a competition entry: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...964&id=2193 1279 views But the ones that consistently get more views after the initial posting are the probably the more interesting ones and/or have the best photos taken of them. Those are: Black Porsche: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...128&id=2193 And Hauler: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...020&id=2193

You can get metal tracks for your Tank, but make sure they are for the King Tiger and not the Tiger 1. The Tiger 1 tracks seem to be more readily available, but they don't fit the King Tiger. Tanks are great fun, and the King Tiger is one of the best-looking ones. They go quite fast too. An ESC is the first hop-up I'd get for one of the old clutch style drives, as the wiper/resistor tends to wear out and become unreliable.

You can use any of mine, or feel free to ask for better pics of anything. Cheers, Don.

You don't need primer with a lexan polycarbonate shell. Primer is only used on the "hard" shells that are painted on the outside.

30+ is plenty warm enough! (It's only 10 deg here in NZ at the moment). Somewhere dust-free and well ventilated, but not windy. If you can do it in the garage that is good. Just watch out for overspray - you might want to cover things with a dropcloth or newspaper. Actually I forgot to mention overspray on the shell. The shell will have a protective film on the outside to protect from overspray. Make sure you leave this on while painting, but don't forget to remove it before you apply the decals! Also, when spraying - spray from about 30cm from the surface you are painting.

If it doesn't already have them, install ballbearings. That will reduce the sloppyness and make it go faster. The plastic bushings will wear out quickly in the dust and dirt.

Yes, you need polycarbonate paint. If you are using Tamiya paints it is the "PS" series you need - it will say "for polycarbonate" on the can. Clean the inside of the shell with detergent, rinse and dry it thoroughly. Make sure there is no dust or lint left on the inside surface. I'm not sure if the Double Blaze has "window" decals, but if you want clear windows then mask the windows using Tamiya masking tape (not household stuff - it will "bleed" around the edges). Spray a thin coat of paint. The first coats may look patchy and see-through, don't be tempted to spray more to even it out! It is easy to get the coat too thick and form a run. Allow the paint to dry (1/2 hour or so) and spray another coat, and repeat until you have the desired finish. You might want to then spray a backing coat of white (for light colours) to bring out the colour. The spray cans work best when slightly warm. Put them in warm water for 5 minutes if the weather is not warm where you are.

Ballbearings will firm things up (and speed it up a little). If the slop is because of worn metal or plastic parts then replacement is the best option.

I'd agree with the ribs on the front and spikes on the back. Change the tyres and then run it (on dirt) before tuning anything else. If you have a good LHS just take your wheels in and see what they have that will fit.

He has a lot more stuff than what is listed in his store. Might be worth asking. His prices are pretty good too.

I guess the most popular stuff went first. He does have some Ninja dogbones listed though. James could use those on his Shogun.

This guy will probably have what you need: http://stores.ebay.com/Littleas-Eshop_W0QQ...sQ3amesstQQtZkm He seems to have a warehouse full of Marui stuff. I have bought many parts off him.

You could build the whole thing from alloy parts except maybe the gearbox casings. GPM made most of the parts, but they are hard to find now. It would look a bit like this:

I think they are the same servo, but they rotate in opposite directions relative to the stick movement (assuming you have a stick-type Tx). I could be completely wrong on this though! Best to test them first.

I have just posted some pictures in my showroom showing some of the differences between these chassis, and I thought I would repeat it here to make it easier to anyone to find this info. I realise that much of this has been covered before, but I haven't seen pics to show the differences. You can see them here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193 I regularly had trouble telling the difference between the TA 01 and TA 02 chassis, so I thought I would take a few pics to show the obvious differences. The main one is the chassis tub. the TA 02 has a shorter tub. This means the prop-shaft is shorter, and the rear suspension arms and dogbones are angled backwards to maintain the same wheelbase as the TA 01. The rear body mounts have an offset as well. The 02 tub has holes under the battery compartment and is closed on the side opposite the battery access hole. The 01 tub has an opening at both ends of the battery, and has the distinctive "honeycomb" pattern on the inside. The suspension arms have different strengthening ribs. The 01s are characterised by a diagonal rib, and the 02 by an X pattern. The 01 front arms are shorter than the 02s, and consequentlly the 01 uprights are longer than the 02s to maintain the front track. Now things get a little complicated when these chassis are used on the trucks and buggies. The Terra Conqueror and Blazing Star ( and Manta Ray) use the TA 01 chassis tub with long arms. However, there is a slight difference in the front end of the tub. It has been narrowed to meet the gearbox more accurately. The example I have is a Blazing star, so I don't know if this applies to the Manta Ray. The "Trophy Trucks" Ford F150, Chevy S 10 and Toyota Prerunner use the TA 02 chassis, but they have TA 01 suspension arms. The rear ones are flipped around relative to the TA01 cars.

Ouch! That looks nasty. Personally I blame SUV drivers. They should look out for smaller vehicles on the road....

There's always space somewhere... under the bed, up in the roof, in the basement, in the boot of the car, in a pile behind the couch.....

I have an Emaxx and it has been one of my favourite runners for a long time now. However you would need more than just a backyard to run one of these in. They are big and fast, you need wide open spaces and hills to jump. For the backyard I use my Blazing Star or Chevy S10.

Yep, sounds like a Hunter to me too.