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Posts posted by Bluefoot
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They don't have window masks because they come with "window" stickers. Just paint it and slap the sticker on.
I prefer the proper clear window look myself so I masked mine with tape. I also have one with the "windows" applied:
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Hi Skotto, I'm in Auckland. Plenty of things to see and do in Auckland, on any sort of budget.
The main thing I'd say is that you need more time. Each Island (North and South) is about the size of California - about 650 miles long.
Let us know what sort of things you are interested in and we can make suggestions (James has made a lot of good ones). If you do come to Auckland I can show you around.
Cheers,
Don.
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Hello Laurent,
TC member Fastpietje makes and sells the wire bumper:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp...046&id=9635
He used to have the bumper support for sale also. You should ask him if he has more.
Cheers,
Don.
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hmmm... at least 10k ... of any currency you choose.
I also use a spreadsheet to keep a track of most of my stuff - but mostly for physical location - basement, attic, work, workshop, garage, dishwasher.....
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No, they didn't. No aluminium rear spoiler either.
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As well as the Fujimi shown in the link above - I have one made by Daishin. It looks almost identical but has a hard body, and yes, I think it is 1/12 scale. Can't remember what the chassis looks like, I'll have to find it and have a look.
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Hi Paul,
1: If you are going to run this truck as a basher then the only hop-ups I'd get are ballbearings and possibly an alloy motor mount.
2: You need a set of TA01 bearings.
3: Yes, depending on how many bits you want to sacrifice in the name of BIG jumps.
4: Yes.
5: They are more likely to tip over because of a slightly higher COG. But all that means is that you adapt your driving style to cope with it - take it a littte easier going into corners.
If you want something a little more stable and on the same chassis - look at the Blazing Star.
I have a short comparison of the TA01/02 based chassis here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193
Cheers,
Don.
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Hotshot II and Super Sabre both use red CVAs, however they both have a mono-shock setup on the front.
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Depending on what sort of paint you are removing it may take quite a while for it to soften up. I spray mine to get a good thick coating and then put it in a plastic bag and leave it over night. Some I have left for days at a time.
You can see and early one I did (Pajero - go to the bottom of the page) here:
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I managed to get mine on using a heat-gun, difficult though. You need to heat them up until they are softish, I think I would try boiling water next time.
No need to glue them - they are tight-as.
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That listing is for a complete set of bearings for a TA01, that should do the trick. If you just need bearings for the front uprights (knuckles) then they are 1150s.
I think you are referring to the axles being too short? Have a look at this manual here and you should be able to identify your parts:
You can find info on the differences between TA01/02 here:
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The first one is off an AYK 566B Supertrail. Someone has carved some diagonal grooves in the tyre.
Don't know what the second one is.
The third (Sand blaster Jr) is a front tyre off a Rough Rider. Worth a bit now as the Buggy champ uses the same tyre, but the new ones don't have "Sand Blaster JR" on them.
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Don't forget the Super Hornet.
Besides the Galaxy, Academy also sold the "Super Mantis". They also sold a kit that used the same chassis with a Hummer body.
Then there is the Panda "Cyclone" (was made by Thunder Tiger I think). This one has lots of alloy bits.
Parma made (still makes?) Lexan Grasshopper bodies.
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Hi Luke, My understanding is that the mAh rating applies to the amount of energy the battery can store and discharge within one hour (3.8 Amps for one hour) and that this is the maximum storage capacity. The discharge rate is independant of this and is determined by the internal construction of the cell. I think the 10c means that the battery is rated to discharge at 10 x the mAh rating, which will mean 38 Amps in your case.
If your EZrun is sucking more than this then the battery will get hot. It will probably depend on how hard you run the car as to whether anything blows up.
I'm not an expert on these things and would happily be corrected by someone who knows more.
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Less than half my collection is in my showroom. I have a lot that are not up to "showroom" standard yet - too many projects - not enough time.
I'd get more done if I didn't spend all this time on TC

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Q for one of you multi-offenders (you know who you are) out there...
when you received your factory-fresh shipping carton box of 2 kits, were their #s consecutive?
jr-rc sent #554 here
No. I also got mine from Jason - #740 & #897.
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That looks beautiful!
I also have a spare 1/10 934 bodyset, and one day it will be black. I'll have to get a set of those decals.
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Don't you just hate it when you tell your kids that they have to drive your cars carefully and not break them, and then 20 seconds later you barrel-roll your Blazing Star into the kerb smashing the wing off.
"See kids.... that's what happens when you don't drive carefully! Don't do what I did"
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Kyosho is red (so no red parts from Tamiya!)
Tamiya did a red "Surikarn" version of the TB Evo III

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I've just posted some pics of the old and new boxes in my showroom:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...115&id=2193
I have numbers 897 and 740.
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Hotshot II and Super Sabre had red CVAs. Not sure if they were that long though.
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Anyone have an estimated price for the US market?
Tamiya USA have it up at US$312. See here:
Both hard and Lexan bodies.
Six-spoke wheels and mesh wheels!
Serial number plate? - does that mean they are going to actually have a numbered limited edition?

Manuals no longer available on Tamiyaclub?
in Administrator Forums
Posted
Ah yes, it's just another case of a big ugly corporate monster stomping on all those that it sees as taking a slice of its pie. And to think that we thought they cared about our little band of enthusiasts. Shame on us!