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Posts posted by Bluefoot
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Hi Jerry,
Trades section of the forum is here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showforum=13
Or if you are a paid-up member you can enter them on the trades page of your showroom and they will show on the homepage
Cheers,
Don.
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You can see a comparison of the TA01/02/Hummer/Blazing Star here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193
The wheelbase differences with the are mainly down to the length and shape of the arms.
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Looks like bluefoot wrote the book on this ;-)
Paul.
Paul, I might just be the first to write it down in one place, but I copied a lot off others

Don.
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My Black Porsche 934. Not sure why...
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I painted the springs on some gold Kyosho shocks with black PS paint, see them on my Blazing Star here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...218&id=2193
Worked fine. Only had a moderate amount of running but seems to be flexible enough not to flake off with the movement of the springs.
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Actually, ignore what I said above about making your truck a TA01! All you need to change the F150 into a TA01 is a new chassis tub and the short prop shaft. And body mounts probably.
You could use a Blazing Star/Hummer chassis tub.
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Just wondering what you guys & gals would want made into rc?
4. Vintage Racing cars (1930s Bugatti's, Jim Clark's Lotus, Stirling moss' Mercedes Benz 300-SLR Mille Milia.
They did make this car!
see here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...82&id=14424
Limited edition on a M02 chassis I think.
I'd like to see the Uhlenhaut Coupe version of this car on a TRF chassis.
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Looks like a Hummer with F150 wheels. You'd be able to tell by the suspension arms. Compare them with all the versions here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...83&sid=2193
(Hummer is right at the bottom).
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There is 36mm between the decks. I don't know the dimensions of the Novak gear, but wouldn't you normally fit that on top of the top deck?
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You can see how those three chassis compare here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193
You can easily convert the F150 into a TA02, but the wheelbase is 3mm shorter than the TA01 (257 vs 260mm). There are ways to extend the wheelbase of the TA02 if you are willing to attack the suspension arms with a dremmel and shim them with washers as shown by Scollins here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...43&sid=5414
You will need to replace a lot of parts to make a complete TA01.
edit: Whoops! the post by miga appeared while I was doing this one (I'm not very fast on the keyboard).
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The Lunchbox SIG owner is no longer a subscribed member, so can no longer add anyone to the SIG.
Hmmm..... could this be why I have had no replies to my applications to join "the old school" SIG ? Has Chris (Netsmith) forgotten to pay his subs?

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ps anyone know where i could get a new battery holder for my old futaba FP-T2PBK transmitter??
Just ordered a couple of these, and the battery covers from Tower. You can find them here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...B&search=Go
I have been compiling a list of comparisons between the TA01 and TA02, and also adding notes on parts that are interchangable with other chassis as I find out about them. You can see that here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193
You can also see my all-metal TA02 here:
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As far as I can tell the original Avante had the flimsy thin uprights, and the heavier "flanged" ones were issued with the A 2001 and Egress. All three of my original Avantes have the thin ones, and my Egress and Avante 2001 have the heavier ones. This is backed up by the pics in the manuals. Interestingly enough I have a spare set of uprights still in their package, the uprights are the heavy flanged ones, but the diagram on the packaging shows the lighter one.
See here:
http://www.tcphotos.com/showroom_model.asp...ecid=306&t=
PS: I do think the color variation between the two styles of front uprights is totally bogus. I personally own both styles of uprights, and the earlier one is the exact same mottled silver color as the later...Yes and no! I have examples of both the dull and the silver uprights. They are both the original Avante - thin type. I don't know if the heavy flanged ones came in the silver form - I only have dull ones. You can also see them at the above link.
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No, That's not good. The body should remain hard. If you use a "proper " paint stripper you will probably dissolve the body - sounds like this is what has happened. If you managed to wash it off quickly enough it will only have damaged the surface slightly and not removed any detail. You might be able to sand it out when (if) it hardens up again.
If you use brake fluid or caustic oven-cleaner the plastic will not be damaged. I used brake fluid on my King Hauler and it needed no sanding except where I used filler to fill a few small dings:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...020&id=2193
Same with my Sand Rover where I used oven-cleaner:
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I think I have a new one in my parts box. PM me if you still need it.
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The RR has less than half the torque of the other two. Not very quick off the line, but probably longer run-times.
You can find the specs of most the tamiya motors here:
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/martinjordt/res...tors/motors.htm
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All that info is here:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=22012008230003
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I've used hot-melt on lexan bodies - it works if you use small spots of the stuff. As caddy shack says - it's not very flexible and will eventually pop off. If you use even a moderate amount (say the size of a headlight) the heat will deform the body. It seems to be ok with PS paints.
I use spots of hotmelt to hold wires in place for LEDs on runners. It lasts long enough for me, and is easy to remove.
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My runner Celica has a Dynatech 01R in it:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...338&id=2193
The motor mounting requires the motor to be the same length, and for the rear end to be the same diameter as the Technigold, so others may fit.
They run better with a Technigold, so I may replace mine.
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I had three cars stolen in a break-in last year. About a month later two of them turned up on the local auction site - listed by a nearby hobby shop! Here in NZ the law requires anyone who deals in second-hand goods to get some ID and address details of individuals who they buy stuff from. The hobby shop had these details and the guy was nabbed. Turns out he lived only 100m away from my factory where he stole them from! (I can see his house from my office window).
I only got two of the three cars back, but that's better than nothing.
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I have a set of chrome covers to fit Rough Rider wheels - front and rear, the ones with holes. Let me know if they are of any use to you.
Don.
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Well my TA04 chassis arrived and it seems the TA04 dogbones are indeed 45mm long, and a direct fit for the TA01. The only difference is that the ball-ends are metal instead of plastic. I'll update my TA01/02 comparison soon.
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I have a Celica that I run, but I'm pretty careful with it. There is no source of cheap parts for these, and if you lose a dogbone then you might as well consider it 2WD.


Ta02 Hummer, F-150....help Me Decide?!
in General discussions
Posted
TA04 dogbones will fit your F150. They are all-metal.