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About RCcoachworks

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  1. This is kind of a long shot, but I just received an old Futaba FP-T2NBR transmitter from ebay, but the return springs and lever arms have been removed from both gimbals - the parts that cause them to return to center. It was used in a boat model and apparently the owner wanted to be able to set the throttle and forget it. Otherwise, the unit is in fantastic condition and I'd like to see it restored. Has anyone got an old, non-working 2NBR that they could sacrifice the gimbals from? Thanks!
  2. Looking for a used Super Sabre in decent shape. Thanks!
  3. Thanks for the info. That makes sense - all the MRC Tamiya part bags I have also have the same type of part number, X#### and Y####.
  4. I am trying to figure out when some tires I have were produced based on their packaging. I'm not sure when these are from, but the Y6001 part number makes me think they're vintage, as well as the yellowed/dusty bag. Any thoughts? I'm just trying to determine if these are truly from the early days or not.
  5. Hey, Folks. I'm looking for a partial sheet of original Clodbuster decals. I need everything except the black, orange and yellow stripes that run along side the body. I need sticker numbers 12+. I have 1-11. A new vintage Clodbuster has arrived on my workbench and I'd like to restore it.
  6. This ebay find just arrived. Despite the dirt, it's in really good condition. No road rash on the underside and all the hardware is original. Nothing missing but the body and tires. It has one broken axle tube, a twisted body post and a lumpy speed control servo. Looks like maybe the servo failed and it ran into an immovable object and overheated the speed control. Seems like after that it went into a box in the attic and hasn't been on the road since.
  7. A vintage NIP 380 motor for my Grasshopper restoration, as well as the Z parts.
  8. I'll second the JIS Tamiya screwdrivers. They really do make all the difference. Who knew that a Japanese model would use JIS screws!?
  9. Good choice on going with the gray chassis. I like it. Will you be using the stock wheels and tires? I'm thinking a set of yellow Blackfoot wheels would look good with your color scheme.
  10. I've been using Tamiya's Polycarbonate Body Cleaner (87118) to remove the paint from an old Big Brute body and it's been working great. I know nothing about the type of paint or the age, but I'm assuming it's polycarb paint from the early 90s. This picture shows the hood after about 15 minutes of rubbing. Once I got the bulk of the paint off, I had to make another pass to remove the haziness, but it's coming along nicely.
  11. Hi, Folks, I'm putting together the things I need to build a vintage Monster Beetle from spare parts, and I'm down to the really hard to find stuff. I need: a white body shell (with the Monster Beetle stamp underneath. Just the shell, don't need the stickers or P parts) a set of unused original tires (in the original tire box packaging would be amazing! Mudblaster tires would fit the bill also) a set of C parts (I can't seem to find anything but re-re C parts at this point. Blackfoot or Mudblaster parts would satisfy this as well) an original antenna (I have a packaged antenna with the original part #, but it's a pretty recent part. I don't have any hope that I would be able to find this, or verify that it was indeed original, but there you go!) Thanks!
  12. Maybe the motor is freaking out at a certain RPM? Have you tried a different motor?
  13. It is disappointing that they didn't do anything to address the diff. After 8 or 9 runs I started to hear the clicking with a stock motor and a tame 6 cell NiCd. Around run 10, I put in a 2S lipo and glued the tires to the rims, that was the last straw. It started doing it all the time. That being said, it's a really fun vehicle to build and drive. I think if you address the diff when you build the truck, either by shimming or doing the screw mod, it will last you a lot longer between rebuilds.
  14. I rebuilt my diff yesterday with new bevels and a 0.5mm shim (Traxxas 3981) between the right-side large bevel gear and the support bearing. Seems like just the right thickness to remove the play and still be free spinning. I ran it once and it sounds good, but I'll see how it's doing 10 runs from now. After that, I'll be going with the screw mod.
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