RCcoachworks
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Posts posted by RCcoachworks
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I'm looking for some parts for a Bullhead:
L Parts - rollbar
C Parts - chrome ladder bars
Window
Thanks!
Kevin
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Really glad to see this body on this chassis. I was thinking of picking up a Defender body and a CC02 G-Wagon kit. This might be the first time Tamiya is saving me money!
Now if they would just put the Ford Bronco and Land Cruiser on the CC02, that would be perfection.
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Looking for:
- 2 M-01 or M-02 chassis cars. Any condition.
- Fiat Abarth Berlina Corsa body
Regretting that I ever sold my Fiat Abarth Berlina Corsa and Mini Cooper Monte Carlo. I've got the body for the Monte Carlo, just need the chassis!
Thanks!
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Hey, Folks,
I'm looking for part B4 for a Grasshopper, the motor-side gearbox half. This is for an early vintage model I'm trying to restore. Any condition is fine, as long as it's not broken. A little road rash would be preferable since it would match up nicely with the other half.
Got to do something about this slight fracture, and by slight fracture I mean giant crack that goes all the way from one gearbox seam to the other, encircling the entire main suspension support.
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3 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:
I had a new in pack original GH MSC , and it did have the plastic coated sleeve over the fuse etc and no battery plug soldered on , just 2 wires for you to do it yourself
Good to know, thank you. I don't know if I can save this one. I'd have to remove the rivets to get the contacts off so I could glue the fractured black plate, and getting the plastic fuse cover off would likely damage it. It's very brittle and doesn't want to budge. Maybe some heat or lubricant might help.
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Judging by RC Toy Memories, I have something between early vintage and mid vintage.
- The chassis is mid-vintage. I suppose it could have been replaced at some point.
- Wheel bushings are black plastic (early)
- Ball connectors are white (mid?)
- No resistor cover (early)
- Black SC with fuse (early)
- B Parts - (early - they are shallower than the gearboxes on my Lunchbox and Pumpkin)
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Awesome, thank you! I took a look at the Pajero manual and it looks the same as what I have. It's an original! It looks like I have an early vintage model.
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My fellow vintage Grasshopper aficionados,
I may be getting down into the weeds with the details of this, but I have an old Grasshopper that I am restoring and it has a fuse attached to the speed controller. I can't seem to find any photo evidence of what the fuse looked like on the first Grasshoppers, so I'm not sure that what I have is original or not. There have been modifications made to the wiring on this speedo, so it's hard to tell what's original and what isn't. The blue insulator is covering a crimped connector that spliced in a Tamiya bullet connector.
Questions:
1) Is this speed control and fuse original? Is the plastic covering original? I think the SC at least is original because it does not have a BEC plug to power the receiver and the car was set up to use a receiver battery pack, just like it does in the manual I have.
2) Does anyone recommend restoring this? It is cracked around the negative battery wire and one of the contacts. I have an original Hornet MSC I could swap in.
3) The manual I have makes no mention of a fuse. Is there an earlier manual that does?
Thanks!
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This is kind of a long shot, but I just received an old Futaba FP-T2NBR transmitter from ebay, but the return springs and lever arms have been removed from both gimbals - the parts that cause them to return to center. It was used in a boat model and apparently the owner wanted to be able to set the throttle and forget it. Otherwise, the unit is in fantastic condition and I'd like to see it restored.
Has anyone got an old, non-working 2NBR that they could sacrifice the gimbals from?
Thanks!
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Looking for a used Super Sabre in decent shape.
Thanks!
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Thanks for the info. That makes sense - all the MRC Tamiya part bags I have also have the same type of part number, X#### and Y####.
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I am trying to figure out when some tires I have were produced based on their packaging. I'm not sure when these are from, but the Y6001 part number makes me think they're vintage, as well as the yellowed/dusty bag. Any thoughts? I'm just trying to determine if these are truly from the early days or not.
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Hey, Folks. I'm looking for a partial sheet of original Clodbuster decals. I need everything except the black, orange and yellow stripes that run along side the body. I need sticker numbers 12+. I have 1-11. A new vintage Clodbuster has arrived on my workbench and I'd like to restore it.
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This ebay find just arrived. Despite the dirt, it's in really good condition. No road rash on the underside and all the hardware is original. Nothing missing but the body and tires. It has one broken axle tube, a twisted body post and a lumpy speed control servo. Looks like maybe the servo failed and it ran into an immovable object and overheated the speed control. Seems like after that it went into a box in the attic and hasn't been on the road since.
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A vintage NIP 380 motor for my Grasshopper restoration, as well as the Z parts.
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I'll second the JIS Tamiya screwdrivers. They really do make all the difference.
Who knew that a Japanese model would use JIS screws!?
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Good choice on going with the gray chassis. I like it. Will you be using the stock wheels and tires? I'm thinking a set of yellow Blackfoot wheels would look good with your color scheme.
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I've been using Tamiya's Polycarbonate Body Cleaner (87118) to remove the paint from an old Big Brute body and it's been working great. I know nothing about the type of paint or the age, but I'm assuming it's polycarb paint from the early 90s. This picture shows the hood after about 15 minutes of rubbing. Once I got the bulk of the paint off, I had to make another pass to remove the haziness, but it's coming along nicely.
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Hi, Folks,
I'm putting together the things I need to build a vintage Monster Beetle from spare parts, and I'm down to the really hard to find stuff. I need:
- a white body shell (with the Monster Beetle stamp underneath. Just the shell, don't need the stickers or P parts)
- a set of unused original tires (in the original tire box packaging would be amazing! Mudblaster tires would fit the bill also)
- a set of C parts (I can't seem to find anything but re-re C parts at this point. Blackfoot or Mudblaster parts would satisfy this as well)
- an original antenna (I have a packaged antenna with the original part #, but it's a pretty recent part. I don't have any hope that I would be able to find this, or verify that it was indeed original, but there you go!)
Thanks!
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Maybe the motor is freaking out at a certain RPM? Have you tried a different motor?
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It is disappointing that they didn't do anything to address the diff. After 8 or 9 runs I started to hear the clicking with a stock motor and a tame 6 cell NiCd. Around run 10, I put in a 2S lipo and glued the tires to the rims, that was the last straw. It started doing it all the time.
That being said, it's a really fun vehicle to build and drive. I think if you address the diff when you build the truck, either by shimming or doing the screw mod, it will last you a lot longer between rebuilds.
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I would vote for a stronger gear diff.
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I rebuilt my diff yesterday with new bevels and a 0.5mm shim (Traxxas 3981) between the right-side large bevel gear and the support bearing. Seems like just the right thickness to remove the play and still be free spinning. I ran it once and it sounds good, but I'll see how it's doing 10 runs from now. After that, I'll be going with the screw mod.
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This is going to be a gift for my son
You're giving him the orange pumpkin and keeping the black one for yourself, right?
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Futaba FP-T2NBR parts
in Sales, trades & wanted
Posted
I was able to fix this by 3D printing the lever arms. I used the levers from a T2NBL transmitter I had as a template. I also found some springs online that were a very close match. I'll try to find the STL file for you.