Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

18 Good

About Coopdevil

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/23/1974

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Black Country, England

Recent Profile Visitors

889 profile views
  1. Thanks for posting this, my own Mav Scout semi-scale project was going nowhere as I couldn't work out how to fit the body properly and this is really useful. I assume the angle plastic is screwed to the chassis where the original side bodyposts are? Coop
  2. Whatever paint it is, it comes off with cellulose thinners and a toothbrush.
  3. Today discovered that cheap wheels off eBay really aren't worth it! (Also discovered that the previous owner of the bodyshell appears not to have used polycarbonate paint on it...) So, so glad I never bothered to superglue the tyres on now!
  4. Built a TT-01 from almost entirely spare parts, a broken ex-club racing car and second hand tat. The only bits I had to buy were a cheap pair of 6mm offset BBS wheels to match the 200mm GT86 bodyshell I inherited with a job lot a year or so ago. Apart from that everything else was in the bits box. I've built PROJECT DOG ROUGH purely to be a disposable practise car for car park running. In theory I do TT-02 racing at a local club, but haven't been since November. The problem I have identified is that as it is a temporary track I never get to practise, and as I don't get to practise I don't seem to be improving (and can't test the car) so I was trapped in a vicious circle of not attending very often. Since I don't want to run the race car outside on tarmac, the solution is to build up a tatty practise car that I don't care about and just get some miles under my belt learning to drive while not worrying too much about crashes and gravel rash on the bodyshell. I might never even clean the thing.
  5. According to tamiyablog; Upcoming Tamiya RC parts to be presented at Nuremberg Toy Fair 2017 47340 TT-02 Lower Deck hard (White)
  6. Drove over to Wheelspin Models in Cannock to buy the nephew his first kit - ECX AMP MT BTD which amidst the alphabet soup is a stadium truck kit with everything included (radio gear, servo, even the screwdrivers and allen key) to build it for £94. http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/258033/ I'm heading over his house later to start the build with him. This is for his Duke of Edinburgh award scheme, the "skill" part where he has to demonstrate a skill he's learnt. I suggested building an RC car kit, that was accepted so this is what he is doing. Yes, we were originally going to do a Tamiya (an Aqroshot) but this ECX was so much better VFM and I'm the one bankrolling this! Coop
  7. That Collectplus looks ideal, cheers. Coop
  8. No, just pruning the collection a bit. A car I've no use for now, and a restoration project I never started.
  9. Just down the road from you, Tividale Quays.
  10. Cheers all, had forgotten about storage providers for boxes (there is one in a retail park that's walking distance from my front door). Post Office counter - I know it's pricier than a courier but I drive past one on my way back from work, and I live at an awkward address in a block of flats so prefer not to have the hassle of somebody not being able to find the address, or not working out how to use the intercom (this happens). Car wise, it's two rollers - TT02B, and a Falcon. No idea of value hence was going to auction.
  11. For bashing buggies I've tended to just buy cheap wheel and tyre combos from Blacksmith Products for about £10 a pair. http://www.blacksmithproducts.co.uk/products.asp?cat=186
  12. Couple of really dumb/naive questions here; I have a couple of 1:10 cars to get rid of before a house move so will throw them on ebay. I've never posted anything this large before so 1 - Where's the best place to get suitable boxes from (UK) and 2 - Can something this large just be taken to my local Post Office for posting, or do I need to sort out a seperate courier collection? Cheers, Coop
  13. Decided against the comedy smokestacks and that rollbar on the rear that weighed a ton. Surprising how much the shape of the F-150 appears once those are off, but to be fair there isn't really much shape there in the first place - it's a typically bland 1990s Ford piece of design from the era and company that bought you the "Mundano". Measure twice, cut once for the bodypost holes. This involved dismantling the chassis to remove the posts, reassembling the body (sans bodyposts) to offer the bodyshell up, lots of careful thinking about how to calculate where the holes need to go, dismantling (again) to allow for the bodyposts to be put back on, reassembling, drilling, praying, test fitting. I ended up using two identical piles of DVD cases under the sills/rocker panels to find out how high it needed to sit - useful tools as they are all the same height! Annoyingly I had to cut a section from the bed to clear the battery strap and post. I'm not prepared just yet to relocate the electronics - I only bought the thing on Saturday morning. I failed to foresee the clearance problem caused by the deck of the bed being (obviously) recessed and lower down than the truck's bonnet. The bodyshell can't be mounted with the deck above that post as then it isn't physically tall enough to reach down to the location where the bodyposts (horizontally mounted on the Scout) are. So I realised I would have to remove this section or else abandon the project. (I did think of covering the whole deck area, but I really want to ultimately include some scale accessories in it in the traditional "scaler" fashion hence decided against it). Plan is to scratch build a stowage box to cover up this area, and let in a section of styrene to form the rear of the cab. I think I might need to remove a bit more bodywork from the rear of the rear arches - they aren't blessed with very much clearance. Next puzzle to be solved is the glazing. It's opaque black plastic so I didn't really want to use it as I want to include an interior (even if just a piece of black card) and a cut-down action figure driver. All RC cars with clear windows should have drivers. So I was thinking of just having no glazing at all, it clearly being an non-roadlegal recreation vehicle built from an ancient second-hand truck. But experience of slotcars tells me that once you remove the glazing from a body, the A pillars are as soft as putty and the first roll over squashes the roofline down. So maybe I need to come up with some form of rollcage that serves both a scale, and a structural purpose. Coop
  14. All of these RTR crawlers are really builds aren't they? So I didn't want a Maverick Scout, or indeed any of these ugly bodied-crawlers until I saw Terz1's build... ...and I went "I didn't know you could do those to them!". I can't personally take to RC models that I don't like the look of - watching them in action provides much of the enjoyment for me and I love the look of 1:10 scalers crawling because I enjoy the models. Crawlers with either no bodywork, or a ridiculously out of scale thing perched up high - not so much. But realising that the Scout could be rebodied with a scale shell changed absolutely everything. So I drove up to Cannock today to collect one from Wheelspin Models. I'd been home ten minutes when I remembered seeing this beast on the Kamtec website Onto Ebay, buy it now, done. So that is Plan A. A cut down Landie very much like this, using an ABS shell. I don't really have the sort of car modelling skills required to produce a really nice scaler but the above looks 1:1 plausible to me (many of the more extreme crawlers do not) and certainly achievable by me. And then shortly after I bought the Kamtec shell the lightbulbs in the living room blew. This may seen entirely unrelated but it did send me running up to the shops in town to get there before closing time. So while there, I had a quick look through the cheap toy section because I often do this to get toy cars and jeeps for kit bashing for the old Games Workshop game Gorkamorka which runs off cheap toy tat converted into Mad Max things. Which is when I found this in B&M, which I originally thought was RC but is actually a friction drive toy. Reduced to £8.99 due to damaged box and the last one on the shelf. Wasn't entirely sure what it was but it turns out to be a Ford F-150 and about 1:12 scale. I also think it's a pirate copy of the bodyshell of the Nikko Thor RC monster truck. Took it to pieces and offered it up to the Scout to see what it looks like. It's only balancing on the Scout's bodyposts here but I think it has potential for a semi-scaler hardbody car, perhaps a mud truck on a ridiculously high high-rise. Next step is to get those naff stickers off, remove the moulding flash, and fill the bodypost holes. I was originally going to remove those pipes but they have grown on me and I'm thinking that would look good with great big gouts of black hamster bedding to represent "rolling coal"... Coop
  15. Mine has one of these cheap waterproof ESCs in it http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/car-speed-controls/Viper-Autosport-20.htm They are all I really fit to cars these days, about £15-£17 on the bay. The original Tamiya one that came with the kit died the moment the buggy did a Hollywood-style series of rolls off the highest point of the local BMX track, and straight into the only puddle on the track.
  • Create New...