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Coopdevil

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Everything posted by Coopdevil

  1. Thanks for posting this, my own Mav Scout semi-scale project was going nowhere as I couldn't work out how to fit the body properly and this is really useful. I assume the angle plastic is screwed to the chassis where the original side bodyposts are? Coop
  2. Whatever paint it is, it comes off with cellulose thinners and a toothbrush.
  3. Today discovered that cheap wheels off eBay really aren't worth it! (Also discovered that the previous owner of the bodyshell appears not to have used polycarbonate paint on it...) So, so glad I never bothered to superglue the tyres on now!
  4. Built a TT-01 from almost entirely spare parts, a broken ex-club racing car and second hand tat. The only bits I had to buy were a cheap pair of 6mm offset BBS wheels to match the 200mm GT86 bodyshell I inherited with a job lot a year or so ago. Apart from that everything else was in the bits box. I've built PROJECT DOG ROUGH purely to be a disposable practise car for car park running. In theory I do TT-02 racing at a local club, but haven't been since November. The problem I have identified is that as it is a temporary track I never get to practise, and as I don't get to practise I don't seem to be improving (and can't test the car) so I was trapped in a vicious circle of not attending very often. Since I don't want to run the race car outside on tarmac, the solution is to build up a tatty practise car that I don't care about and just get some miles under my belt learning to drive while not worrying too much about crashes and gravel rash on the bodyshell. I might never even clean the thing.
  5. According to tamiyablog; Upcoming Tamiya RC parts to be presented at Nuremberg Toy Fair 2017 47340 TT-02 Lower Deck hard (White)
  6. Drove over to Wheelspin Models in Cannock to buy the nephew his first kit - ECX AMP MT BTD which amidst the alphabet soup is a stadium truck kit with everything included (radio gear, servo, even the screwdrivers and allen key) to build it for £94. http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/258033/ I'm heading over his house later to start the build with him. This is for his Duke of Edinburgh award scheme, the "skill" part where he has to demonstrate a skill he's learnt. I suggested building an RC car kit, that was accepted so this is what he is doing. Yes, we were originally going to do a Tamiya (an Aqroshot) but this ECX was so much better VFM and I'm the one bankrolling this! Coop
  7. That Collectplus looks ideal, cheers. Coop
  8. No, just pruning the collection a bit. A car I've no use for now, and a restoration project I never started.
  9. Just down the road from you, Tividale Quays.
  10. Cheers all, had forgotten about storage providers for boxes (there is one in a retail park that's walking distance from my front door). Post Office counter - I know it's pricier than a courier but I drive past one on my way back from work, and I live at an awkward address in a block of flats so prefer not to have the hassle of somebody not being able to find the address, or not working out how to use the intercom (this happens). Car wise, it's two rollers - TT02B, and a Falcon. No idea of value hence was going to auction.
  11. For bashing buggies I've tended to just buy cheap wheel and tyre combos from Blacksmith Products for about £10 a pair. http://www.blacksmithproducts.co.uk/products.asp?cat=186
  12. Couple of really dumb/naive questions here; I have a couple of 1:10 cars to get rid of before a house move so will throw them on ebay. I've never posted anything this large before so 1 - Where's the best place to get suitable boxes from (UK) and 2 - Can something this large just be taken to my local Post Office for posting, or do I need to sort out a seperate courier collection? Cheers, Coop
  13. Decided against the comedy smokestacks and that rollbar on the rear that weighed a ton. Surprising how much the shape of the F-150 appears once those are off, but to be fair there isn't really much shape there in the first place - it's a typically bland 1990s Ford piece of design from the era and company that bought you the "Mundano". Measure twice, cut once for the bodypost holes. This involved dismantling the chassis to remove the posts, reassembling the body (sans bodyposts) to offer the bodyshell up, lots of careful thinking about how to calculate where the holes need to go, dismantling (again) to allow for the bodyposts to be put back on, reassembling, drilling, praying, test fitting. I ended up using two identical piles of DVD cases under the sills/rocker panels to find out how high it needed to sit - useful tools as they are all the same height! Annoyingly I had to cut a section from the bed to clear the battery strap and post. I'm not prepared just yet to relocate the electronics - I only bought the thing on Saturday morning. I failed to foresee the clearance problem caused by the deck of the bed being (obviously) recessed and lower down than the truck's bonnet. The bodyshell can't be mounted with the deck above that post as then it isn't physically tall enough to reach down to the location where the bodyposts (horizontally mounted on the Scout) are. So I realised I would have to remove this section or else abandon the project. (I did think of covering the whole deck area, but I really want to ultimately include some scale accessories in it in the traditional "scaler" fashion hence decided against it). Plan is to scratch build a stowage box to cover up this area, and let in a section of styrene to form the rear of the cab. I think I might need to remove a bit more bodywork from the rear of the rear arches - they aren't blessed with very much clearance. Next puzzle to be solved is the glazing. It's opaque black plastic so I didn't really want to use it as I want to include an interior (even if just a piece of black card) and a cut-down action figure driver. All RC cars with clear windows should have drivers. So I was thinking of just having no glazing at all, it clearly being an non-roadlegal recreation vehicle built from an ancient second-hand truck. But experience of slotcars tells me that once you remove the glazing from a body, the A pillars are as soft as putty and the first roll over squashes the roofline down. So maybe I need to come up with some form of rollcage that serves both a scale, and a structural purpose. Coop
  14. All of these RTR crawlers are really builds aren't they? So I didn't want a Maverick Scout, or indeed any of these ugly bodied-crawlers until I saw Terz1's build... ...and I went "I didn't know you could do those to them!". I can't personally take to RC models that I don't like the look of - watching them in action provides much of the enjoyment for me and I love the look of 1:10 scalers crawling because I enjoy the models. Crawlers with either no bodywork, or a ridiculously out of scale thing perched up high - not so much. But realising that the Scout could be rebodied with a scale shell changed absolutely everything. So I drove up to Cannock today to collect one from Wheelspin Models. I'd been home ten minutes when I remembered seeing this beast on the Kamtec website Onto Ebay, buy it now, done. So that is Plan A. A cut down Landie very much like this, using an ABS shell. I don't really have the sort of car modelling skills required to produce a really nice scaler but the above looks 1:1 plausible to me (many of the more extreme crawlers do not) and certainly achievable by me. And then shortly after I bought the Kamtec shell the lightbulbs in the living room blew. This may seen entirely unrelated but it did send me running up to the shops in town to get there before closing time. So while there, I had a quick look through the cheap toy section because I often do this to get toy cars and jeeps for kit bashing for the old Games Workshop game Gorkamorka which runs off cheap toy tat converted into Mad Max things. Which is when I found this in B&M, which I originally thought was RC but is actually a friction drive toy. Reduced to £8.99 due to damaged box and the last one on the shelf. Wasn't entirely sure what it was but it turns out to be a Ford F-150 and about 1:12 scale. I also think it's a pirate copy of the bodyshell of the Nikko Thor RC monster truck. Took it to pieces and offered it up to the Scout to see what it looks like. It's only balancing on the Scout's bodyposts here but I think it has potential for a semi-scaler hardbody car, perhaps a mud truck on a ridiculously high high-rise. Next step is to get those naff stickers off, remove the moulding flash, and fill the bodypost holes. I was originally going to remove those pipes but they have grown on me and I'm thinking that would look good with great big gouts of black hamster bedding to represent "rolling coal"... Coop
  15. Mine has one of these cheap waterproof ESCs in it http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/car-speed-controls/Viper-Autosport-20.htm They are all I really fit to cars these days, about £15-£17 on the bay. The original Tamiya one that came with the kit died the moment the buggy did a Hollywood-style series of rolls off the highest point of the local BMX track, and straight into the only puddle on the track.
  16. Your lad's comment about the Rising Fighter seems to be echoed by a lot of people. I actually went down the route of trying (and failing) to get my RF to work "properly" messing around with tyres, wheels, oil shocks, oil weight etc. and it was all a total waste of time that led to me disliking the thing immensely and it gathering dust for years on top of a bookcase. When I gave up and returned it to the pogo sticks and tried to appreciate it for what it was, it suddenly "clicked". I've taken it around the estate recently twice on frosty mornings just for fun oversteering and wheel spinning and it is fun to _watch_. You also feel like you are doing something, whereas my old Ansmann Mad Rat tended to feel as if it was doing all the work and dialing you out of the experience. Coop
  17. Always thought the VW Lupo GTi would be a great M-chassis shell, especially with a set of deep dish wheels on it. 2318mm wheelbase according to Wikipedia which is near enough no different to the 2300 of the modern Fiat 500. Coop
  18. Sent an email to a local RC club asking if they are racing this Saturday only for it to bounce! Coop
  19. This got me thinking during the afternoon in the office about whether this applied to my Rising Fighter as well. I recently put oil dampers on it and on the grippy tarmac in my cul-de-sac the front was planting itself to the point whereby the rear would hop up and down until the car built up some momentum and then started rolling. Absolute rubbish. Anyway, following on from the train of thought in this thread, I swopped out the front wheels for some spare DT-01 fronts off a dead Fighter Buggy. The original Rising Fighter wheels are quite wide and effectively slicks with three shallow grooves in them, the replacement fronts are blade-types for loose surfaces. Much less contact patch. The front-end-stays-still-rear-end-jumps behaviour immediately ceased. So yeah, perhaps rolling resistance at the front is a big factor. Certainly the RF seems to handle a lot better now. Coop
  20. TBH, one of the cheaper DT-02 buggies will do me fine - for a more modern buggy I have an Ansmann Mad Rat with 2.4 Ghz wheel controller. I have a soft spot for the hardbodied buggies that have a driver bust in them, that's why I lurk here rather than on one of the racing orientated forums like Oople! The car is just for bashing and enjoying tinkering with and treating myself to the sort of Tamiya buggy that I never got to own in the 80s. On the subject of the stuttering, I whipped out the Mtroniks ESC (it's a Sport 20 not a Viper as I mistakenly said above and not programmable - it's just claims to calibrate itself) and threw in an old Tamiya ESC from a scrap/donor Fighter Buggy that the nephew and I have and the stuttering stopped. Looking carefully at the ESC once it was removed revealed that the plug to the receiver is bent and splintered and a wire frayed which might have been causing it (no idea how that happened though).
  21. Thanks fellas, very useful. I think I can cross a Hornet off the wish-list! DT-02 seems to be the way to go for bashing over the parkl Perhaps a Christmas build project with an eye to running it in the Spring as the weather here has turned over the past couple of days and I suspect there will be no outdoors running for a while. Coop
  22. So I've got a Rising Fighter and I've outgrown it and don't want to spend any more money on it. It's got a Mtroniks Viper 20 ESC in it which appears to be playing up (stutters on acceleration from standstill), and I've put oil-filled shocks on it and am still not happy with it. I also dislike the way the screwdriver has to come out to change the battery as the bodyshell is inexplicably screwed on, not held with bodyclips. My nephew has a second-hand Fighter Buggy (aka Rookie Rabbit) that cost all of £30 from eBay and I find that car much more enjoyable to use TBH - and it seems far sturdier, the nylon steering arms take the blows that the Rising Fighters flimsy steel ones don't and the car seems to handle better than the newer one. I'm now thinking of stripping the Rising Fighter for parts and building a re-re Mad Fighter since it's the same car as the FB, but then I'm noticing the number of Hornets in the TC showrooms which, lid off, appears identical to the Rising Fighter. But everyone raves about the former! So would I be advised to get a re-re Hornet or would I just find the experience very similar to my Rising Fighter? Coop
  23. Drove over to Birmingham to collect an eBay Fighter Buggy RX which turned out to be a silver-bodyshelled one.
  24. The Rising Fighter is not a DT01 chassis but is a hybrid with the DT01 gearbox hanging off the end of something else and articulated to the chassis in a slightly different way. Perhaps we should call it an "honorary" DT01? Coop
  25. That's looking awesome. I think I'd be tempted to leave it as is, just a few stickers on the bodywork but with the rear side windows covered in lots of little ones, Volksrod style. Iron Cross or similar on the doors? Coop
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