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About Grastens

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/13/1993

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    Radio-controlled vehicles, ice hockey, cycling, and mechanical engineering.

    The Lancia 037, too. You can message me if you happen to like Lancia-related nonsense, spam, and/or tangents...

    You can also message me if you want to share your RC concepts or projects. Most of the time, the only thing I can contribute is a listener, but I still enjoy hearing about new ideas!

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  1. Happy birthday! 😀

  2. Spectacular work on the shell! I had no idea all that non-white text was all paint I can confirm that the Hotshot only features partial ball bearings, mostly for the gearbox; the hubs and some of the smaller gears use metal or plastic bearings. It is nice to see how the Super Hotshot has built up on the original concept, and I hope that translates into an excellent runner for you
  3. I just did that with Tamiya's Polycarbonate Body Cleaner: I will leave it to other members to recommend less-specialized solutions, but I can confirm this stuff really works. Cleaned up some overspray from another project of mine with this, and have been quite satisfied with the results.
  4. Amazingly, someone does print these on Shapeways. I found this resource when looking for a front bumper for my own Lancia Rally, before I relented and adapted the re-release 'snow-plow' bumper to fit. The matching chassis piece is available, too. It would set you up nicely; all you would need are some tapped pieces of matching metal rod, and you will have a complete bumper! Of course, these are only useful if you can get them without exorbitant shipping. Best of luck in your search!
  5. Interesting! It is nice to see that the basic design has gone unchanged so far, in the sense that it really makes the kit a "Super Hotshot." Wonderful work on the driver figure, by the way The has become my go-to runner. Whatever I decide to do, the Hotshot has become the first car I will pack up and leave with. I have found it fits easily into a backpack (helped by the big front bumper and the rear wing being within the car’s wheelbase, making it easier to transport), and my past sessions have proven it to be quite rugged. That latter point is probably why I am finding its limitations more easily. I have had the pleasure of multiple runs with this car now, and notice the following: - I seem to flip the car over on its roof more frequently. However, some rain this week has also “hardened” the loose sand where I run, so not only is there more grip, but bumps and jumps are a bit less forgiving than when everything was dry. - The differential has definitely loosened its action, and as such I am getting hung up more often on obstacles. Not much to do about that, though, and most of the time the car gets stuck on bumps that it likely had no business with, anyway! - I also lost a small screw on the right front lower ball plate. Fortunately, spare 2 x 6 mm screws are part of the kit, so I was able to replace it. The car ran without problems regardless; there were two more of them to anchor the plate. - Curiously, the front left wheel struggled to rotate with the others. It had noticeably more friction than the others, and I observed a gouge of plastic taken out from inside the front left wheel. I had figured it was mud accumulating on the wheel that interfered with it, but the problem returned some time after cleaning the affected area. And so, ironically, I found myself taking the time to service the Hotshot after a few runs. I say “ironically” because I suspected that a car that performs invincibly probably does not attract much maintenance. However, I wished to take care of what took care of me. That maintenance actually amounted to little more than lubricating the pivot points and cleaning the uprights’ bearings, but that is still more involved than I get with a lot of my other vehicles. In my case, I wanted the car to continue performing as it does, so I saw fit to give it a clean. I did clean it, though, as you will see! Pictures below: These cars look quite glamourous with a bit of mud and dirt: But they stop performing as such if said mud and dirt stay on for too long: I actually used my bike cleaner and a proper rinse with water on everything, letting it all dry (anything I could not get with a towel, I left to air-dry). It was not spotless, but still a lot cleaner than leaving it alone, which was the objective: The next day, it was back out there: I feel like I absolutely thrash this car, but the Hotshot never complains: Five battery packs went through it this weekend – and today was a good day: The aforementioned binding on the left front wheel went away after cleaning and lubricating the upright’s bearings. I also cleaned and lubricated the suspension balls, which really freed them up after the dirt and grime from these sessions. I have found that a good experience maintaining a car is a lot about one’s state of mind. Despite the difficulties I had alluded to in servicing the Hotshot, I did not really mind that much. I no longer really cared that seven screws are required to access the electronics (six in the chassis, and one in the bumper), or that the front suspension uses eight screws for each upright alone. Of course, I was doing nothing as involved as tearing it all down for a thorough cleaning, but I get the feeling even that experience will be pleasant. As I was servicing it, I found out that I even managed to bend a steering rod! I have never done that before on any of my cars, not even the ones using bent wire links. It shows just how hard I have driven this thing. It is not a major bend, and as the Hotshot has questionable steering geometry anyway, I do not believe it will be worthwhile to straighten it. The suspension arms still show good action, but there is now noticeably more play in the front upper arms than anywhere else. The pivots must be wearing quickly with all this hard driving; I do not remember seeing that much slop when I first built it… It is not a problem yet. Overall, the Hotshot strikes me as a collection of odd designs that come together to work with astonishing effectiveness. That front bumper in particular is incredibly resilient, and has been superb in protecting the car from all types and magnitudes of frontal collisions. The rear wing paint is flaking off from all the hits it is taking in rollovers, but having a proper metal plate for a roof instead of a polycarbonate surface is still proving quite useful. … If the Hotshot is this rugged, then just how good is the Super Hotshot?
  6. They do; however, Tamiya subsequently released spare un-cut and un-painted body sets, for those preferring another look. Speaking of which: how about a nice dark green, @toyolien? Excellent work on the helmet, by the way!
  7. That explains some of the magic, at least And "magic" is the word for these fine FF-01s! I can hardly wait to see it all underway. Thanks for the tip on clear-coating the white plastic, too - I have plenty of use for that, and I like that better than just throwing white paint on it. Best of luck with the rebuild!
  8. @ruebiracer indeed you are correct! Looking again, the original decal sheet does include it, and so does the manual: I am not sure how I missed that, especially as that step was unchanged for the VQS. Thanks for the heads-up! (and of course, thanks to Tamiyabase for the scan of the original manual) With my new supply of step screws, even if I don't learn to go heavy on the thread lock, at least I can make the same mistake twice Thank you! I know there are other places to read about the kits I build, but I like being able to share my own experience with them. To me, that is what makes build threads special, even if the project itself is not as spectacular as a scratch-build or a heavily-modified kit. So, I appreciate this
  9. It was an unexpectedly-bright and beautiful day for the next occurrence of the It happened after the first run of my Tamiya VQS. Having run a battery through it and lost a suspension screw, I decided to pack it in for that buggy. It was still early in the day, though, and conditions were excellent, so I made the decision to swap out for my Hotshot. As in “Grastens Builds the VQS/Vanquish,” I had fun with the other buggy, but felt afterward that my expectations were too high for it. Since the Hotshot had been the car that set those expectations, that was quite indicative of its off-road prowess! In the intervening time between sessions, I elected to remove the dummy heat sinks from the rear of the car. I kind of miss them, but only when the car is not moving. And so, it was a quick rollout: I was by myself this time, so no photographer was on hand. I still managed a few pictures, though: I found a series of boulders at one end of the pit, and subsequently set up there. Here, the Hotshot is taking a breather after the first battery pack: That maintenance stand is something else! If I had been humbled by the VQS, I was emboldened by the Hotshot! I was almost appalled at the punishment this car could take. I ended up running full-speed into several substantial rocks (all by accident, I assure you!), and still the Hotshot kept powering through it. After enough of them (I was not really driving all that well that day!), I was shocked to find an inspection turned up no damage! It had me asking myself again: how does this car just work? In several respects, it is inconvenient to build and maintain, and in others it should be a deficient design, and yet everything comes together so beautifully in this buggy. After the skittish behaviour of the VQS, the Hotshot seemed to eat up the worst of the terrain where I was running it. I even managed to power up near-vertical inclines, just like in the original promotional videos! About the only things stopping the car today were particularly-tall bumps, particularly-thick weeds (which were tall and so beached the car), and the open gear differentials. I now understand why the ball differentials are so sought-after for these things; from my experience, they may be the only limitation for the Hotshot’s off-road performance. Perhaps I am being overexuberant about its abilities, but really, the Hotshot continues to show that it is the best buggy I have ever run in my time as a Tamiya enthusiast. It even looks the part, parked on the dirt: It could very well be that by coincidence, I have ended up in the very terrain and the very situation where the Hotshot really shines. Crash Cramer got a clod of dirt to take home: I have been bashing this car so hard – quite literally, in some cases – that the rear wing paint is starting to flake off. The only other victim of the spirited session was the 3 x 6 mm screw that anchors the front of the bumper. This made perfect sense, given the pounding that bumper was taking. Upon further inspection, it was revealed that the screw may have actually been ripped out of the metal bumper stay at the front gearbox. Nothing of that length would thread into it, so I used a 3 x 10 mm screw, an additional washer, and a spare black O-ring to take up the slack and provide some buffering. It stands proud of the bumper, but somehow, I believe it will hold up. Even when all the forces through the bumper were being directed into two screws on the monocoque chassis, the design worked. I found no evidence of cracking or fracturing at the holes, despite the massive punishment meted out to the bumper and chassis. … Maybe the Hotshot can exceed my limits for thrashing! There were enough risky jumps and frontal collisions with it during that session to convince me to tone things down, but the Hotshot seems game! What a remarkable buggy
  10. Not more than a day later, the time is upon us! The VQS will get its first run. Unlike other instances of opening runs, I will have the experience of another build relatively-fresh as I take this one out. In my case, I will be comparing the VQS to the Hotshot which I had recently finished. In some way, each represents the best of Tamiya four-wheel-drive off-road buggies, though the VQS’ design was a little further removed from the pinnacle. However, as the Hotshot predates it by three years, I am curious to compare their performance characteristics. The site I will be using is the same as the one where I ran my Hotshot, under similar conditions. This means dry, relatively hard-packed dirt, with plenty of ruts and bumps from construction equipment, as well as sections of gravel and plenty of weeds/vegetation. It was an inauspicious debut: By that, I mean that the centre ball differential backed out almost immediately. It seems I have once again underestimated the torque required to keep it firm. Fortunately, I thought to bring a small set of tools with me, and so I had everything I needed to access and remedy it. Once I was confident the drivetrain was accounted for, it was time to tear it up! I am not sure the VQS got the message: As the session went on, it became clear that the VQS was not really designed for anything this rough. It made sense, though; I do remember reading that the 1980s saw plenty of changes in off-road track development. The types of courses the Avante (and by extension, the original Vanquish) would be designed for were probably more refined than the ones the Hotshot was expected to tackle. This would explain why the Hotshot was such a stellar performer here while the VQS seemed to struggle. Underestimating torque was a reason that Evert Edwards nearly rattled himself out of the cockpit. I made sure to tighten the screw at the top of the shell firmly before proceeding; he had a bit of a lean after that, but did not come loose the rest of the day. Indeed, the VQS really hit its stride on the flatter sections of the pit, and handled moderate undulations with relatively-good stability before being overwhelmed by the worst terrain. I managed to get some asphalt time in, too. It is not a good idea for spike tires, but I tried it anyway. The VQS simply flew! It was a lot of fun on the pavement, with the off-road tires providing enough grip to propel it down the road, yet remaining slippery enough for some easy drifting. Perhaps I should consider some mixed-terrain or even on-road tires… With its sleek shell, it certainly looked the part of a road racer at speed. What surprised me was just how much it squeaked and rattled during the session. I suppose that the metal-on-metal contact on the rear stabilizer bar may not help, but the front one is metal-on-plastic, and there are not too many other metal-on-metal places that would make that much noise… The body mounting could not have helped, either, with the front and rear body mounts being in line with each other and lacking lateral support. This meant the shell was free to wobble from side to side, which would definitely contribute to some rattling. An undertray with Velcro may help, as on the Astute. In conclusion, the VQS struck me as a fun if not entirely-capable off-road runner, but an unusual amount of fun on the road. It surprised me that this experience proved the concept of the Blazing Star, an almost completely-unrelated Tamiya buggy that combined an off-road chassis with decidedly-on-road tires. That was always considered an odd buggy, yet the design of the Avante series would have made for a much more compelling version of the same principle. I would have run more battery packs that day, even if the motor ran a bit too hot after that first one, but I discovered that one of the step screws in the front suspension had backed out completely. The others were on their way out, too. With no hope of finding it, and no interest in creating undue wear and tear on everything else, I packed it up and returned home. It was then that I finally learned that I had not only installed the wrong lower shock collars on the front (they are Part E8, in black – nowhere to be found on the yellow damper trees), but I must have also forgotten to thread the front stabilizer through the left suspension arm! Once again, I showed an unusual lack of detail and execution during this build. At least those were easy fixes; the step screws, on the other hand… It was fairly obvious that the front suspension was rattling itself to pieces. Every remaining step screw got more thread lock, and a number of replacements have been ordered. A 3 x 10 mm screw is deputizing for the lost step screw, although that would not be a good thing to run. I may look to see if I can locate/create a shim so the screw can be tightened down without binding the steering… In the meantime: I felt I asked too much of the VQS, but it sure looks nice I still look forward to future sessions with this spectacular car!
  11. I can clear my head about running (and possibly totalling – who knows, really?) the newly-finished VQS with an impromptu photo session: Even if the lighting is bad, the car sure isn’t! Compare and contrast with my recently-built Hotshot: The VQS is unbelievably slick and sleek where the Hotshot communicates an unmatched brutality. The Hotshot is all blunt shapes and exposed mechanics and wires, while the VQS elegantly contains all its electronics (save for a tantalizing peek of the motor) under its finely-sculpted form. I think this is why I was inspired to photograph the two of them together – besides them representing my two latest builds. I spent the next hour just looking at them That first run is definitely something to anticipate…
  12. With the positive experience of (the admittedly-little painting of) the Hotshot, I felt confident that I could put together a good result for the VQS. I also had a nicely-finished Comical Avante to show for my work; that was also a pre-painted and pre-cut shell that required careful attention to decals. The painting commenced: The flat black base I laid out for the driver torso was having the desired effect on the rest of the colours. I worked quickly, but the paint rarely gave me problems. The torso was painted in XF-7 Flat Red, while the helmet was painted in X-7 Red. With the base being XF-1 Flat Black, I wished to deviate from the recommended same colour for the seat belt and painted that in X-3 Royal Blue, with some proper X-11 Chrome for the buckles. For some reason, I imagined Evert Edwards having brown driving gloves, despite the futuristic vehicle he was piloting. Perhaps I was inspired by Crash Cramer, who did not have hands to paint. As a result, I painted gloves in X-9 Brown. The plan to then go over the belts and gloves in XF-86 Flat Clear, for a matte finish. However, in keeping with my intermittent brain-fade, I used X-21 Flat Base instead. The result was a really awful-looking rough white coat over the gloves and belts, so I took extra time to redo those in the same colours. After that, I did not bother with the intended flat overcoat. The helmet was a little better. Two coats of XF-7 Flat Red were followed by two coats of X-7 Red. The rubber trim was painted in XF-1 Flat Black, but then I added some splashes of X-3 Royal Blue for the helmet padding visible from the opening. I did this to break up the monotony of flat black around the face, which was painted using a blend of XF-15 Flat Flesh and an unknown type of olive grey. Going over the face paint while still fresh allowed me to build up some texture on the face, which I thought made it a little more convincing – although really, that was a fringe benefit for hasty work! The eyes were finished in X-2 White, with irises added in X-3 Royal Blue. This was a nod to the box art, which depicts Evert Edwards with bluish eyes, even if the colour is closer to grey. My vision was not acute enough to determine if my attempt at adding pupils was successful! I ended up with another decent-looking driver figure: … At least, I think so! I think this particular driver figure is keeping in character with the buggy: it is certainly not as futuristic as the Avante’s driver, but it does not have to be. After all, the Vanquish was a bit of a technological regression from the Avante, but all in the interest of better performance. If nothing else, this justifies Evert Edwards having brown driving gloves! And now, decals! I use a glass and surface cleaner for this purpose, creating a pool of the fluid to position the decal before blotting it dry in its intended position. The bottle I am using is naturally derived and does not harm the decals, but more interestingly dates back from my Loctite Zexel GT-R build from many years ago! Is it a good glass and surface cleaner? Actually, no. But it works for this task quite well! I used a fresh X-Acto knife blade, and got to work cutting all the decals ahead of applying them to the shell. At one point, the knife slipped: The cut looked pretty bad on the silver decal. Obviously, the “Racing Rats” sticker was cut clean through. I could have saved it, but did not want to; fortunately, Tamiya supplies a few extra decals. At this moment in the process, I was worried I would have to cut off the slashed portion completely and replace it with one of these elective decals, or cover it. It put a damper on things, to be sure, though I was thankful that it happened to the sticker and not my hand! The elective decals are as pictured: I ended up cutting those out, too, resulting in the spread you see here: On the left are the decals I intend to use. The “Racing Rats” decals have been replaced by yellow “Tamiya” script, from the elective group. The rest of the optional decals are on the upper right corner of the mat, while the ones I would leave off the shell are on the lower right. Seeing the multiple decals to make up the particular stripes and patterns on the shell, I was careful to follow the numbered order laid out in the manual. This meant the rear wing was first to finish: (Up and) AWAY! After deliberating on whether I wanted to depict car #2 or #3, I went with both to create car #32: I used to wear number 32 with a number of my ice hockey teams, so this worked for me! I was already running into trouble with the first few decals on the shell proper: I had not completely blotted out the fluid from underneath this solid decal on the side. The result was unsightly bubbles trapped under the surface – I write “unsightly” because it looked for all the world like bubbling paint indicating rust! That is very out of character for a car like the VQS/Vanquish, I decided, especially on a metallic decal. I ended up making tiny holes in the sticker with a very fine pair of tweezers to allow the fluid to escape. Was I worried about filling the decal with pockmarks? I had a larger issue on my mind: It was then that I came to the revelation that heating the decals to smooth them out might minimize the extent of this cut. The reality is that I am likely to roll the car anyway on its first run, but I really wanted to make an acceptable effort at depicting this spectacular car. The section would stay – for now… The silver cockpit accent on the shell actually consists of six different decals. Applied in order, and with care, they can make up one continuous spot of colour. I took my time to line everything up, and felt I was rewarded with a clean finish: Also on at this step was the first of the yellow “Tamiya” decals, replacing the damaged “Racing Rats” stickers. I quite like the effect! It is in the same spirit, yet ever so slightly different from box art. I am glad that Tamiya included these in the kit! Twenty-six decals complete the shell. I ended up using thirty, on account of the special racing number. Unlike most of my other projects, I applied heat during the decal process, ensuring that the trickiest of them would be sufficiently-tacked on before proceeding with others. The smallest decals on the roof (tiny warning labels) did not need a fluid. I felt my efforts were rewarded: Elective decals included one Tamiya decal for the back of Evert Edwards’ helmet, and a C.V.A. Shocks sticker each for the front and rear. The latter were placed in the spirit of similar decals present on the bodies of buggies like the Boomerang; I had wanted to use it on the damper towers, but neither one had enough space for them to be placed: Yes, they provide a special script for the helmet! It is Evert Edwards’ name, written as a stylish signature. This was not a feature of the original kit – it seems by coincidence, I predicted it with my Hotshot! The biggest surprise may have been just how well the rectangular Tamiya decal settled on the back of the curved helmet. With patience, I was able to get it on there without wrinkles! Perhaps it was not the best choice; however, it was put on cleanly, and covers the screw hole at the back. A final elective sticker went on the chassis - the electrical decal, placed near the electronics Uniting the body and the chassis felt like a magical moment, even after all these kits: I am not sure I will ever get tired of it, to be honest. The VQS in particular looks sharp: A free day to run it is all I need to wait on! Thus concludes the build.
  13. Before the decals could be cut, though, I wanted to try out the proposed driver figure. As the VQS comes with a pre-painted and pre-cut body, I could do this immediately after finishing the chassis. As it transpires, there is indeed enough space for a full-armed driver torso to fit in the cockpit area of the shell. Clearance is actually favourable, too, helped by the revised placement of the servo ball end. However, I could see that the servo was getting hung up on the driver figure at the limit of its travel. The solution was two-fold. Realizing that the kit-stock driver bust was selected partially for its hollow back, I trimmed away the plastic at the back of my selected torso: It certainly helped, but did not completely solve the issue. The rest of it was done by trimming the servo saver itself: If this thing ever breaks due to a lack of material, then I can shake my head. Until then, I achieved my vision of a full-armed driver figure in a VQS/Vanquish! The time was also taken to sort out how to connect the battery without fouling the shell. I recalled tucking the battery cables into the front of the chassis on an Avante, where there is a small space between the battery and the front gearbox. That space also exists in the VQS tub, and may even work better than the double-deck chassis for that: The result is a very satisfying installation! The battery cables are not excessively-pinched, so all the wiring can be tucked away cleanly. The leftovers from the final parts bag: Now, bodywork!
  14. The last quarter of the is now underway! The steering linkage is next on the chassis. The stock setup is not bearing-supported (which is how Tamiya gets you to shell out for the hop-up Racing Steering Set), but still feels smooth in operation. Or, it will for a few runs… I greased the ends of the threaded rods, pre-threaded the connectors, and made use of my tools when it became clear there was going to be a lot of rotating involved: The setup is configured for zero Ackermann geometry, which was a criticism of the system. At least there is less bump-steer than a Hotshot: The carbon-fibre steering bridge was not surprising, but also out of place as the only carbon-fibre component in the entire build. It was ostensibly carried over straight from the Avante re-release. This is where the manual gets interesting: Included on this page was a series of corrections: Essentially: the ball end for the steering servo was placed on the wrong side, and the rod needed to be made longer to compensate for that correction. I wonder when this was issued. I heeded their revised instructions as I set up my radio equipment: And then it was time for a dab of creativity with a too-small ESC switch: As the switch was too small to mount in the stock location in the intended holes, I cut a bushing from a leftover piece of rubber tubing from a Wild Willy 2 kit (used in the friction dampers – I had the spares from mine, for some reason, despite not having one for some time). This would help the screw and spacer sit a bit flusher with the switch plate; as long as the switch could still travel fully in both directions, this would work. It almost worked cleanly, except that screw did not thread properly and ended up going in quite crookedly. I covered the exposed screws with electrical tape and a zip-tie to conceal the mess: But hey, it works! Enough for me to put on the requisite sticker: Interestingly, this switch plate is also a key component to the right rear lower suspension arm. It affixes to the chassis between the tub and this plate, as we will see. The electronics layout was then hashed out; visible in the lower left corner is the aforementioned attachment point under a cap screw head: The recommended position of the electronics is a tandem arrangement of the ESC and receiver. I saw no need to deviate, so I went ahead with the double-sided tape: One day, I may attempt to shorten wires to clean up my effort, but until that day, I am fine with doing so via strategically-placed zip-ties: Which brings us to the famous lightweight one-piece wheels: They fit well with the tires, although some coaxing was required to get the beads to seat completely. It was merely a matter of untucking the foam inserts from under the beads. As the car will not be running with a particularly-powerful setup (stock 540; a 23T Super Stock RZ is a possibility), I dispensed with glue for the beads. More plastic-fantastic with the battery door: And finally, installing the wheels and tires onto the chassis: With the rear wing stay installed, the chassis is complete! The inherent appeal of this unclothed platform reminds me of the story of the Lamborghini Miura prototype… For anybody unfamiliar, it was first displayed as a bare chassis at its first auto show, where it still generated immense interest and plenty of pre-orders on the spot! That will not suffice for this VQS, however, just as a bare chassis did not do the original Miura complete justice. Time for bodywork!
  15. It would take installing the dampers to figure that one out. Interestingly, they were specified to be constructed “softer” than the rear dampers, using 3-hole pistons in the manual instead of the rear’s 2-hole types. The damper bodies assembled much like the rears: For plastic, this is quite good. Everything threads consistently, leaving little temptation to over-tighten. The kit-supplied yellow damper oil went in: I made sure to leave time for the shocks to settle. The rears did not fit the holes in my one car stand, which were made for this exact purpose. The fronts sat nicely in there. Once again, I built one shock to my liking, and took another 3 – 4 tries to get the other one to match its rebound: All assembled: I wondered why the VQS used tapered front springs when they were such a poor fit for the lower collars. Of course, I completely neglected the actual parts to be used for these springs! Much like the shock tower, I would not get to the bottom of that for a while… When the front dampers refused to fit, I checked back over the manual and sure enough, I had installed the front shock tower the wrong way! It took a few minutes to correct, after which it looked like this: Much better! Still missing that front body post, though! The incredibly-fiddly front stabilizer went in: “Fiddly” because of those screws holding down the brackets. They were difficult to line up cleanly, even for pre-threading. Manoeuvring everything onto the front gearbox was also a bit challenging. Nonetheless, I persevered to get that front gearbox onto the rest of the car. Suddenly, we have a semi-recognizable VQS/Vanquish in front of us: More funky plastic went on in the form of the chassis’ upper deck. Six screws hold it down, and at this step, the manual advises changing out the flange nut all the way back from attaching the rear lower arms for lock nuts. I used this time to correct the lower arms’ position. The remaining parts from Parts Bag C: Which means: Wherein we will complete it!
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