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Grastens

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Posts posted by Grastens

  1. On my Astute build, I have attempted to temper the problem using a combination of standard Ball Diff Grease and Anti-Wear Grease inside the diff to slow down the parts' rotation. which should help them last a bit longer. I received it second-hand, and the previous owner appeared to have done something similar; the rebuilt diff (with both greases) feels like it did before.

  2. lol - :)

    You have bits but no drill? A reamer might be a better option...!

    Most likely! haha

    I used drill bits after reading about how someone drilled body mount holes with them, and used it on my Avante. I succeeded (more or less) there, so thought I would try it on this project. The Lexan appears to be thicker, though... I own a Dremel, but do not have it on me as I am at school; chances are it will be making it back to me when I next go home!

    And speaking of which: I also managed to cut the body and undertray today!

    imag2181.jpg

    imag2182.jpg

    imag2185.jpg

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    I may clean up the edges when my Dremel returns. None of my paints made the trip with me after the Thanksgiving break as I flew back to school, but my family visits on the 26th and are travelling by car; I could ask them to bring the paint and Dremel by then. For now, though, I am happy with how the large cut surfaces turned out and not so much with the more complex curves.

    However, I did bring one can of PS-22 Racing Green and one of PS-5 Black, so my undertray is actually ready to paint once I mask off the outside (no overspray cover).

  3. Good point. I think this was discussed somewhere in one of the threads where people ask if a TTC system can fit into an Astute and the general consensus seemed to be that a lighter-powered brushless system would work. But since brushless systems are inherently more efficient than brushed counterparts and tend to spin at higher RPM ratings, they can work far better with the TTC than the stock Astute gearbox, which I am also told is not saying much...

    Edit: On topic, I also bought drill bits and began drilling the holes in the body and undertray by hand. It got painful as I was using actual drill bits and bare hands, but I managed to complete the body and undertray; all that remain are the small holes in the rear wing for the endplates. I shall begin painting when I can find a place and a few hours...

  4. PM sent.

    The A parts tree arrived today, so I got some more work done:

    imag2168.jpg

    The rear gearbox cover went back on after I took the aforementioned 540 silver can from home. A 17T pinion went on there; a perfectly-good 22T from my Avante project was unfortunately wrecked by an overtightened grub screw. It would not have fit with the 77T spur gear in there anyways. The plastic protrusion covering the motor is also a new addition.

    imag2169.jpg

    This was the main purpose of buying an entire parts tree, though. 3 hex-head screws from my F103R keep the rear gearbox door in, and the rear gearbox to the chassis plate.

    imag2170.jpg

    Still no rear suspension blocks, but I put the yellow CVA dampers on the rear-arms anyways. They are also still very smooth.

    Today I am also going to see if I can find some drill bits for the repro bodyshell I have on my shelf... Currently I am waiting on:

    - servo stay pieces

    - one Dynamite ECX1070 brushed ESC

    - Super Astute G parts to appear, at which point I will buy them

    I also require:

    - drill bits for repro body, undercowl and wing

    - masking tape (see if I can find some Frogtape) for the body

    - paint for the body (PS-22 Racing Green, PS-1 White, PS-34 Bright Red, PS-5 Black for the undercowl and maybe PS-13 Silver as backing)

    - a place to paint (should not be hard to find)

    I can still run the original body, which I may do if the ESC arrives before the body. All in all this is turning into a short project, but then again being able to assess the project does not guarantee a quick finish. Bodywork should take some more time as I have 3 colours involved on the shell.

    Edit: As soon as I began browsing, some brand new G parts for the Super Astute showed up... Now I am waiting on those instead of seeking them out. Looking forward to bulking up the front end! I also just picked up a new-to-me Super Astute TTC Gear Train Set... Brushless is suddenly a possibility...

  5. Greetings:

    I went to my local hobby shop the other day to buy some paint for my next projects. Since I do not go there frequently, I usually take my time with each visit, poring over the stock and some of the display models they set out. Two of them have my attention; this one I feel people will recognize right away:

    imag2143n.jpg

    The other one I am not so sure what it could be at all:

    imag2140.jpg

    imag2142x.jpg

    And some other cars I had no trouble identifying at the shop, just for the sake of it:

    imag2144.jpg

    imag2145.jpg

    imag2146.jpg

    Things like this just cannot be found at an online store - out in the open like this, anyways.

    All that said: can anybody identify the top two cars? They have been on display for a while now and I have no clue what they could be...

  6. Bought six spray cans of paint, enough to handle my three next projects (I hope): one PS-22 Green, one PS-12 Silver, two PS-1 White and two PS-34 Bright Red. Did not get to run my car at home before I head back out to school, but with any luck I can try again during the holiday season...

  7. Barely... But I did put a few things together:

    imag2127.jpg

    The universal joints and a set of 1150 ball bearings arrived recently, so I installed them on the front wheels and rear arms. I cannot join the rear arms to the chassis yet because I require D1 parts, which I ordered in aluminum. They should be arriving next week.

    imag2128.jpg

    imag2129.jpg

    Rear wheels and tires also arrived, so I glued those and attached them to the rear arms.

    imag2135.jpg

    The rear end is now completely rebuilt, having stripped down and regreased the differential, which is in surprisingly good shape. Perhaps against common sense, I put some Anti-Wear Grease to slow down the diff; with the special Ball Diff Grease the unit was alarmingly loose. That could mean I just have no idea what a mint ball diff looks like, but it rotates smoothly now and should last a bit longer.

    imag2139.jpg

    Electronics are on the way; I spent a total of $25 on a Dynamite ECX1070 ESC, and will take one of my standard Futaba servos, a 540 silver can and a radio I took from my Avante (which is now fitted with a Spektrum unit) to cut down on the cost of electronics. It will in time run much better electronics, especially as I have a brand-new TTC Gear Set on the way (many thanks to F2 Stu), but for now I want to see how it does as a budget runner...

    Having read Kontemax's fine Astute resource thread as well, I will be on the lookout for Super Astute G parts to brace the front end. I do still need some servo stays and A parts for the gearbox door.

    On another note, it appears I started this at a good time as many Astutes seem to be popping up... Plenty of people to ask for advice!

  8. Sand Scorcher

    The Frog

    Porsche 959

    Toyota Hilux

    Avante

    All are either prime examples of Tamiya's engineering prowess or left very strong impressions upon their owners, or both. Alternative to the Frog would be Vanessa's Lunchbox.

    Edit: And forgot about the Blackfoot...

  9. Phew; I checked in with the Air Transport Security board and they confirmed that my car can go so as long as it fits! Apparently the real issue is lithium-type batteries, though fortunately I run stick packs, meaning I can even take my batteries back. No mentions about taping up connectors, however; I will do that just in case. They also said a battery can be taken aboard if the car is taken in a carry-on if it fits in the car as intended.

    Thanks for the advice!

  10. Greetings:

    I am leaving soon for a holiday weekend back home. I wanted to take my RC car back with me as I figured I would use it there and leave it once I returned back to school. I will be flying back.

    My question is: are there any rules that pertain to radio-controlled vehicles at check-in for flights? The flight will be within the country but I wanted to know if the electronics, metal parts, etc. would determine whether it had to be in checked luggage or a carry-on. It may seem like an obvious question but I am taking no chances; I do not want to be leaving my car at the airport! I am in Canada, but I imagine that most restricted items on flights are the same in each country.

    Any clarification would be greatly appreciated!

  11. Has to be an F103GT if you ask me :) The only out of the box (Tamiya) RWD chassis with touring car wheelbase and width...

    Not to mention being able to have a mid-motor, rear-wheel drive hatchback! *cue Renault Clio V6*

    Edit:

    From what i read the handling on the F103GT is absolutely hopeless on anything other than kojak smooth race tracks .

    Unfortunately that is also true...

  12. This has to be one of my strangest 'Wanted' posts, but I am actually looking for a Tamiya Avante t-shirt and wanted to know if anybody would be willing to part with theirs. As I need some new shirts I figured I would wear my love for RC cars a bit more visibly this time around! Not sure if they came in just one size or a few, however...

    Granted, I seem to understand the t-shirt came with a special few Avante 2011 kits and so this would make it difficult to find one, but if you do happen to have one please let me know. Thanks!

  13. Function over form, but what function! I was very impressed by the videos, and continue to marvel at all the work you put into making a custom FF buggy work like this!

    I admit I am still a bit confused about the explanation of the change in uptravel in post # 45, though... Is it for consistency on landings if the chassis bottoms out?

  14. "Steering Assist" ... I imagined that it would be used on a 1:14 rig, but with the re-release of the Bruiser... Those and the tanks strike me as the only types of RC vehicles that would use an extra feature like this, though it would be interesting to see it incorporated into a smaller truck or buggy. The latter two probably do not need it, however.

    My last guess would be some sort of unit related to the drift cars.

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