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Grastens

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Posts posted by Grastens

  1. PSH, Tamiya doesn't even explain it on their off road dampers. They explain how to drill out the caps, but not how or why to bleed them. I wonder if Jiles still has his thread going on RC-Tech, we could always ask over there.

    Come to think of it, I have seen aeration dampers before, having used the GB-01 units on my Buggy Champ. I had no idea at the time why they had to be filled with the damper at 2/3 stroke... A small script about aeration dampers does seem to indicate that the air content is better for handling small bumps while the shock oil disperses the heavier impacts.

    To me, then, it would appear to make more sense as an upgrade on an entry-level vehicle as on-road bashers usually deal with imperfections on their cars' running surfaces. Maybe their appearance on the new TRF chassis is to gather more input on their performance, or is there a growing trend for street circuits?

    The XV01 is another rally chassis, but I'm hoping that it isn't a DF03RA replacement. With any luck, Tamiya will keep both the DF03RA and the XV01 running concurrently to give buyers a choice of belt-drive or shaft-drive rally chassis, as they have done with the TA and TB series touring cars.

    Are they still making TB-03s? I have only seen new developments for the TA-series chassis, even though I have admittedly not been following Tamiya that well. Is it because the same design is proven to be very effective, or a lack of interest in shaft-driven on-road cars??

    On a more-related note: a good strategy, but I have to wonder if the advent of the XV-01 means the end of any DF-03ra development.

  2. It's a shock with no bladder in it. The air is allowed to mix with the oil, and the air-volume is "tuned" to afford different levels progressive stiffness as the damper is compressed (called "pack")... I'm at a loss for words because there is very little info on how to properly setup aeration dampers for off-road, let alone on-road. How do you know how & when to run less or more air. I don't understand how the performance can be consistent when the amount of air passing through the piston is continually changing?

    Oh, I see now. Maybe the instructions will rectify this shortcoming - recalling the entire discussion about geared differentials compared to ball types a while back, Tamiya's solution was to have the differential partially-filled in order to compensate for extra volume in the diff itself, or something like that.

    Not saying that they would call for the dampers to be only partially-filled(!), but my point is that there could be a solution within the chassis' instructions, one which would strike a balance between tuning precision and the desired qualities the design team strove for.

  3. The article did seem to roughly state the aeration dampers would optimize the tires' contact with the track surface, which was what I was thinking as well as some cars' setups are stiff enough to lift a wheel in a corner. Aeration dampers are usually used for off-road racers where suspension travel and a good damper system are paramount to performance. I think in this application could be an improvement so as long as the track surface is consistent; over rougher surfaces the car would bottom-out.

    What had you at a loss for words?

  4. I bet a fully loaded 911 Turbo S at US$179K or the US$108k Nissan GT-R will beat this 962 and can take either of the two cars to work each day without breaking a sweat. The 962 at $2.0 mil a pop is best to let your friend(s) own it but you get to drive. You got to a well heeled true 962 fan to spend that kind of money.

    Maybe not in the right hands... Either one of the road cars you listed seems infinitely more accessible than a road-going 962!

    I wonder if the new owner will make it a trailer queen, if one is found.

  5. Being serious here, what if they released an upgraded Lunchbox, with carbon fiber pieces, aluminum oil shocks, special edition body molded in black plastic, and colored rims? I'd be tempted to buy it!

    The ultimate Lunchbox; this would be a very fitting way to commemorate this model. Being less optimistic, though, it is probably just a black shell and coloured wheels...

    ... and a box like the Avante Black Special! Would this also lead to pink wheels?

  6. It depends on the type of wheel adapter you have fitted to your Grasshopper 2. If you have the 12 mm hexagonal types, you can fit a number of aftermarket buggy wheels as many use this adapter. This of course opens up options for colours, and from there you can find a set of wheels that can match the original Super G types in colour.

    Though from what I see in the manual, the Grasshopper 2 only uses unique adapters in the rear and runs 1150 bearings inside the front wheels. In that case, you can source front wheels from at least any buggy using a similar axle diameter as your car (there are lots from the Tamiya lineup, like the Frog, Grasshopper, Hornet, Striker, etc.), while using the stock adapters you can use the rear wheels from the Frog. To use any other wheel on the rear, though, you will need to change the adapters to fit.

    If using stock Tamiya wheels in white, you can also dye them yellow to match the original Super G wheels.

  7. But I thought the Sand Scorcher and Bruiser had ABS bodies similar to the originals... Though shells like the Celica Gr.5 were given the polycarbonate treatment and dropped on TT-01s. At the worst I would expect a modified Buggy Champ shell in lieu of the original Super Champ body if it ever gets re-released.

  8. Like I said, I do not have the resources to do so. I am on a university campus, and so I lack the necessary items required to dye anything, most importantly a stovetop/heat source. In fact, the thread specifically requests the re-re white wheels dyed black.

    Perhaps I should have just listed this as a request for a service, or I could just pay full price for an original set...

  9. Greetings:

    I am trying to find box-art-type wheels for my Astute; the one I bought has already had the Jamie Booth-style modifications which make it a better runner but I would like to find some Tamiya lightweight wheels in black. If my paint scheme idea works out for my repro shell, I should then have a nice team thing with my Avante, which also uses lightweight black wheels. Already I have the front 2WD lightweight set and some aftermarket Team CRP spiked fronts, and the rear spike tires are ubiquitous. I am only missing the wide lightweight wheels for the rear.

    There is one listing on eBay for these special wheels; however I am not prepared to drop $60 for a set of rear rims. I know that dyeing the standard white wheels works very well, but I do not have the resources to try it.

    So I would like to ask if anybody would be willing to dye black a pair of wide lightweight wheels. We can discuss payment, though I am optimistically looking for a $30 fee that includes shipping. Please note that I do not have a set of said wheels, though I understand the white sets are rather easy to find.

    Thank you very much!

    - Grastens

  10. Oddly enough, after seeing those pictures of the chassis and the Aero Avante, I actually do see how it could work. Granted, the nose clearance would still be an issue, but the bodywork could be extended slightly to fit the DF-02 tub in a manner similar to the Avante 2001's bodywork extensions to fit the modified lower deck.

    Other than that, should I feel bad for mentioning the Avante 2001 and this upcoming release in the same paragraph?

    Edit: I guess I just keep thinking that somehow the Aero Avante's original concept will be retained, even though the DF-02 does not appear entirely accommodating to a diffuser or cooling apertures...

  11. I would hope there are more, having just subscribed!

    They do look like they could be challenging to run, though. I do not know for sure, having not attended the event, but maybe the logistics for the big Nottingham meeting occupied the time needed to set up a photo competition, or nobody really seems that interested.

  12. Rare and quite expensive when they do pop up. The standard Astute gearset is much easier to get and with 0.6 mod gears. There is also 2 x spur options (70T & 77T). Pinion gears are (16T > 23T) so there are more gearing options available for the standard Astute set up. The ball diff is not as self destructing as some would have you believe, in fact it is the same ball diff as the Egress. Sure the same ball diff doesn't do as well in big wheeled trucks (King Cab & Monster Racer) but like all things RC, you have to look after them and drive within the limits of what you have.

    I hope I haven't discouraged you but rather encouraged you to give the standard set up a go first before you double the value of your Astute. Good pick up too by the way and good luck with it.

    I will attempt to run it with the stock gears, but this Astute may be my first step into the world of high-powered brushless motors and Li-Po batteries so I would like to try and find a TTC gear train set first. I also tend to drive my cars hard and recently learned about the sorts of things I should be doing with ball diffs that I have never done (shimming, mostly)... Good to hear that the stock drivetrain is more solid than believed, however, and so while I will look for a TTC gear set I will give it some run time with a lower-powered brushed motor.

    It sounds like the Egress ball diff is very durable and I believe it; my Avante Black Special is equipped with the re-release part (not sure about the differences or similarities) and despite the punishment I put them through they still perform very well.

    I have had very good experiences with both Sport-Tuned and GT-Tuned motors so I may fit either one first, or even try one of those Super Stock motors and take a step into advanced motor maintenance (so far I have only been cleaning them; my GT-Tuned car will need new brushes and eventually a turning, but Super Stock motors are completely rebuildable...).

    Maybe I was thinking the Astute needed power like the Super Astute (TC member Hudson recalled how his Super Astute was sluggish with a Sport-Tuned), but that is not the case. Obviously Astute gears are much easier to replace/tune, and coming from the member with an Astute box as his profile picture I will trust all this advice. Thanks!

    This is probably stretching what you are looking for, but I do have a Super Astute for sale (new built):

    http://tamiyaclub.co....asp?cid=109357

    Unless we did a bit of a swap - my Astute for that Super Astute, which would not work seeing as you need to fund racing - I cannot pick it up. A shame, as it looks like a fabulous car! I hope it finds a great home!

    aa00e193.jpg

    I have a complete set new in box that I'll be putting up for sale.

    So should I forward my payment now? :P Living in university means my budget is getting thin, but we shall see what I can pony up... I sent a PM to enquire.

    Thanks for all your replies so far! I am amazed that such a rare part would turn up so quickly!

  13. New In Box? Unfortunately I do not, though I do have an assembled BMW GTP with the original box and all necessary equipment... At the moment there appear to be no complete sets of the Le Mans/GTP racers, though I do see a complete Lamborghini.

    I will let you know if I see anything turn up!

  14. Greetings:

    Having recently acquired an Astute, I was interested by the potential an upgraded transmission system would offer. The Super Astute TTC Gear Train Set is very rare but I hope to find one, starting with this thread.

    So please contact me if you do have a complete set around; I was considering purchasing the spare gear set but that does not include the plastic gear cover or any of the needed screws. The plastic gear cover in particular is exceedingly difficult to find.

    Thank you for your time!

    Grastens

  15. I think you should be able to fit a mild brushless setup; those by Hobbywing are usually affordable; if not there are still some decent brushed motors, none of which I can name off the top of my head as this car needs a fairly-powerful motor.

    Pinions would be someone else's opinion! However, the kit gearing for a higher-speed motor should suffice and you should notice a difference in performance right away. Gearing would be harder to change anyways since the car runs 0.5 module gears instead of Tamiya's more-common 0.6 module.

  16. It was one of those days. I lost a shoulder bolt out of the front suspension on the rere frog. The belt in the TFR decided today was a good day to let go. Destroyed a spur gear in a 18B and had one of the Shimizu tires come unbonded in a Jag. Took the unimog out after dark and a bolt came out of the rear link on it. I'd start fixing them but today isn't my day so it will wait till tomorrow. I ran the hotshot and didn't break it...that I'm aware of anyway.

    I had a few days like that...

    Took my Avante out on campus; got a few stares from the other students... Then I decided to buy a nice-looking Astute. Thanks again, GTodd!

    Edit: Also purchased a subscription! Very excited for it!

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