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Everything posted by jujutsuboy

  1. Not sure on cva's as always used 75mm ansmann or absima ally shocks at £10 pair. With respect to the 3rd shock mod I use the 55mm versions of the above with success (3 times now). Again these are cheap for a pair.
  2. Thank you, that sounds like a plan. Is it just bog standard sewing cotton off the reel?
  3. I get it now! I did this to my lunch box before I replaced the shocks. The problem I found is the gearbox clashes with the 3rd shock too easy if the chassis is dropped too much; of course I could replace the shock with a rigid link which would reduce the space required but still allow the solid axle to 'roll'. Ah, I like this suggestion! Add some reinforcement in corners to make up for removal of bed, then it might just work. Can anyone suggest the best tool for the cutting job? I have a dremal but may be a bit awkward getting into corners?
  4. That would be really useful :-) I'm keen to retain the chassis flat and level, and try and do something interesting with the body.
  5. A good thought, but unfortunately the chassis needs to remain flat otherwise all movement in rear suspension/gearbox will be lost!
  6. Having lost interest in RC Cars for a while (though still enjoyed the great threads here), I decided to dig out the Midnight Pumpkin I purchased in the Modelzone sale and decided to build it up but with a twist and try and give it a more scale feel without losing the fun of the Pumpkin/Lunchbox. Gearbox built up with full bearings (rubber sealed on axles), slot cut ready for 3rd shock and no motor adaptor as 18T pinion will be used. Alturn waterproof servo built up and ready to go. Be interesting to see how this performs as a real bargain from Modelsport. Servo in place 3rd shock in place ready for top mounting Mounted Front arms all built up with Hornet uprights. All assembled with Absima ally oil shocks. These were a bit of a punt but seem fine for a tenner a pair! Front Brat wheels mounted up with rubber sealed bearings Rear shocks on alongside rear Brat wheels The final (for now stance of the chassis. Personally, I am happy with the look of this (not so sure how it will drive!) as long as I can achieve what I want with the body This is where I could use some help/suggestions as I have never messed around with customising bodies before. Seeing JennyMo and MokeI Kagaku recent threads it has shown the sky is the limit for significant customisation. I am pleased with the body height at the front, but I need to try and drop the rear to level it out and give the correct stance. Currently I am considering cutting out the flat bed, then remodelling something at the correct height, alternatively I am considering removing the entire rear of the body behind the cab and fabricating something up from plastic. However I am up for any suggestions at this time! Thanks for looking.
  7. Having been extremely unmotivated about RC for a loooong time, I decided to have a go at a project based around my uber cheap Midnight P Black Edition bought from Modelzone in the infamous sale. Hence items delivered below: Unfortunately awaiting a second Hornet front axle as on back order so a couple of worn old ones will be used temporarily so the build can continue.
  8. The 'gentle' repeated tap of a light hammer (ahem ) has resolved the issue. Didn't go crazy, but enough for job done! Thanks for your responses
  9. Hey all. In my ongoing request to restore an old Scorcher into a runner, on doing a trial mount up of some Brat Wheels/Tyres I noticed one of the axles was rubbing the tyre. On closer inspection it revealed this: As you can see, the axle on the left is bent inwards enough to cause the rubbing (the flash line show it quite clearly). The question is, can this be saved? OR will trying to 'adjust' the axle arm just cause it to become brittle? cheers
  10. Thanks mongoose! I did mean to post this in the vintage section as it is an original scorcher! I assume that makes no difference?
  11. Hey guys. I am in the process of putting together a Scorcher project, and am torn between 2 options for wheels; either go original OR try a set of Brat wheels and tyres all round for a more aggressive stance. I have done a lot of digging, and I THINK the Brat wheels bolt straight on front and rear but would really appreciate it if someone could confirm that. Thanks
  12. Weel, I'm back and have failed . Though I have a nice collection of dead drill bits (including cobalt ones)! I have managed to seperate the arm from the gear box which is good, but that grub screw will just not come out. I think it may be time to accept defeat, so the question I have (which I think the answer is yes based on what I have read), is can I replace an original Scorcher rear suspension arm with that off a re-re?? thanks all
  13. Thanks for all your input guys, unfortunately I have failed miserably on all counts This leaves the drilling out option, something I have never tried before so any pointers on types of drill bits, drill speeds etc would be appreciated. thanks again
  14. Thanks for further suggestions. Did some searching for easy out extractors but all the sizes are way too big that I can find. So far have tried using soldering iron to heat up screw to release thread lock but no luck and have also tried some acetone. Don't suppose any suggestions for a 'safe' (ish) way of heating up the arm that may be more effective. cheers
  15. Doh! This prompted me to check under the front arm that I cannot remove, surprise, another bolt! Just got to get that grub screw out now, unfortunately 1/16 hex too big :-(
  16. Hey all, I am in the process of stripping, cleaning and rebuilding an old Scorcher. However I have come up against 2 problems that I would be greatful for advice on........ The first is the grub screw on the front of the suspension arm (where the spring runs through) is well and truely stuck and partially rounded off. Any suggestopns for how to remove? Secondly, the 2 halves of the gearbox are stuck solid. I think I have stripped all bolts out, so was after any suggestions for how to break the seal? thanks all
  17. I run (as do others) Pro-line Dirt Works 2.2 truck tyres front and back which work really well on and off road and wear really well. I have also run Dirt Hawgs on the front (using rear buggy wheel size) which also work well.
  18. Thanks for input. Almost pulled the trigger on an Exo, but ordered Wraith instead just have something different that can go anywhere plus potential for scale fun and games. We shall see if all goes well as first non Tamiya
  19. The Vaterra is interesting, and if in kit form would have been on the list! I have also been considering a 3 speed but looking at new preferably.
  20. Following yearly bonus, I have decided it is time for a new kit! Basically, I'm after something which is an interesting build and capable of running on varied off road surfaces (not limited to Tamiya). Currently thinking of; Axial Wraith, Axial Exo, Hotshot/Supershot, XV01T. (Current collection includes Lunch box, Blitzer and CC01). Any thoughts? I know we like to spend each others cash!
  21. Real shame, ordered some ever reliable Ansmann Shocks from our friends at Fusion, just got an email with following news: "Unfortunately, Ansmann Racing have announced that they are closing at the end of January and we have sold out of the 201000037 (thats the shocks) and they are not getting any more in before the end of January" Always sad to hear news like this
  22. Complete set of Blitzer Beetle wheels. Now my Stadium Blitzer can stop sulking since my Lunchbox mysteriously stole his wheels.......
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